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THROUGH THE NORTHWESTERN REGIONS OF TItE UNITED STATES

JESTENDING

FROM DETROIT THROUGH THE GREAT CHAIN

OP

AMERICAJV LAKES^

TO

THE SOURCES OF

THE MISSISSIPPI IRlYEPv,

I^RFORMED AS A MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION UXDEsl
GOVERNOR CASS.

IJ^ THE YEAR 1820.

By henry Ry'sCHOOLCRAFT,

r.Iember of Ae New-York Historical Society, of the Academy of Natural Sciences a?

Philadelpliia, of the New- York Lyceum of Naniral History, and of the

Lyceum of Natui-nl History of Troy.

SttKKLLISIJKD WITH A MAP AND IIGHT COPrZK PtATP r.NEJlATING.S.

ALBANY :
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY E. & E. HOSFORD,

so. 100, STATE-STKFrT,

2821.

^ #

.^qETIIERN DISTUICT OF NEW- YORK, To mt :

B.

I E IT REMEMBERED, ttiat on the thirtieth ilay of .Vanuary, in tiie fon-T-

fifth year of the Independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1821, K.

& E. Hosford of the said District, have deposited in this office the title of a Booli,
the ripht whereof they claim as Proprietors in the words foUowing, toxuit .•— " Isarra-
Jive Journal of Travels, through the northwestern regions of the United States, extending from
Detroit through the great chain of American Lakes to the sources of the Mississippi River,
performed as a member of the expedition under Governor Cass, in the year 1820. By Henry
R.._ Schoolcraft, member of the New- York Historical Society, of the Academy of Natural
Sciences at Philadelphia, of the New-York Lyceum of Natural History, aud of the Lyceum ci'
Natural History of Troy. Embellished with a map and eight copper plate engravings."

In confoimity to the act of the Congress of tlie United States, entitled ''An act tor the en»
couragement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the author*
and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned ;" and also, to the act
entitled *' An act supplementary to an act entitled " An act for the encouragement of learn-
ing, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors of
such copies durmg the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the
arts of Designing, Engraving aud EVtiung historical and other prints."

Clerk of the Nort/iern Distritt ofNeio-Tvrk.

TO THE

HOK. JOHK C. CaLHOl]^,

SECRETARY AT WAR.

SIR,

Allow me to inscribe to you the following Jour-
nal, as an illustration of my several reports, on the
mineralogy of the regions visited by the recent ex-
pedition, under Gov. Cass.

I beg you will consider it, not only as a proof of
my anxiety to be serviceable in the station occupied,
but also, as a tribute of individual regard, for those
exertions which have been made, during your admi-
nistration of the War Department, to develope the
physical character and resources of all parts of our
country, — to the patronage it has extended to the
cause of science, — to the protection it has afforded
to a very extensive line of frontier settlements, by
stretching our cordon of military posts, through the
territories of the most remote and hostile tribes of
savages, — and particularly, to the notJc.p it has be-
stowed upon one of the humblest cultivators of natu-
ral science.

HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT,

WK W

«t

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

C^HARLEvoix informs us, that the discovery of the
Mississippi river, is due to Father Joseph Mar-
quette, a Jesuit missionary, who manifested the most
unwearied enterprize in exploring the northwestern
regions of New France ; and after laying the found-
ation of Michilimackinac, proceeded, in company
with the Sieur Joliet, up the Fox river of Green
Bay, and crossing the portage into the Ousconsing,
first entered the Mississippi, in ] 673.

Mons. Robert de la Salle, to whom the merit of this
discovery is generally attributed, embarked at Ro-
chelle, on his first voyage of discovery, July 14, 1678
—reached Quebec in September following, and pro-
ceeding up the St. Lawrence, laid the foundation of
Fort Niagara, in the country of the Iroquois, late in
the fall of that year. In the following year, he pass-
es up the Niagara river — estimates the height of the
falls, at six hundred feet— and proceeding through
lakes Erie, St. Clair, and Huron, reaches Michili-
mackinac, in August. He then visits the Sault de St.
Marie, and returning to Michilimackinac, continues
his voyage to (he south, with a view of striking the
Mississippi river — passes into the lake of the Illi-
nois"—-touches at Green Bay — and enters the riv-

VI iNTRODUCTORV REMARKS.

€r St. Joseph's, of Lake Michigan, where he
builds a fort in the countr}' of the Miamies. In
December, of the same year, he crosses the portage
between the St. Joseph's and the IlHnois — de-
scends the latter to the lake ; and builds a fort in
the midst of the tribes of the Illinois, which he calls
Crevecceur. Here he makes a stand — sends persons
out to explore the Mississippi — traffics with the In-
dians, among all of whom he finds abundance of In-
dian corn J and returns to Fort Frontenac, on Lake
Ontario, in 1680. He revisits fort Crevecceur, late
in the autumn of the following year; and finally de-
scends the Illinois, to its junction with the Mississip-
pi, and thence to the embouchure of the latter, in the
Gulf of Mexico, where he arrives on the seventh of
April, 1683, and calculates the latitude between
23° and 24° north. The Spaniards had previously
sought in vain for the mouth of this stream, and be-
stowed upon it, in anticipation, the name o{ Del Rio
j^scondido. La Salle now returns to Quebec^ by the
way of the lakes, and from thence to France, where
he is well received by the king, who grants him an
outfit of four ships and two hundred men, to enable
him to continue his discoveries, and found a colony,
in the newly discovered territories. He leaves Ro-
chelle, in July, 1684 — reaches the bay of St. Louis,
which is fifty leagues south of the Mississippi, in the
Gulf of Mexico, in February following, where he
builds a fort — founds a settlement, and is finally as-
sassinated by one of his own party. The exertions
of this enterprising individual, and the account which
was published of his discoveries by the Chevalier
Tonti, who had accompanied him in all his perilous
expeditions, had a greater effect, in the French ca-

MTRODUCTORY REMARKS. VH

pital, in producing a correct estimate of the extent,
productions, and importance, of the Canadas, than
all that had been done by preceding tourists ; and
this may be considered as tlie true era, when the
eyes of pohticians and divines, merchants and spe-
culators, were first strongly turned towards the
boundless forests, — the sublime rivers and lakes, —
the populous Indian tribes, and the profitable com-
merce of New France.

Father Louis Hennepin., was a missionary of the
Franciscan order of Catholics, who accompanied La
Salle on his first voyage from France ; and after the
building of fort Crevecoeur, on the Illinois, was des-
patched in company with three French voyageurs,
to explore the Mississippi river. They departed
from fort Crevecosur, on the twenty-ninth of Febru-
ary, 1780, and dropping down the Illinois, to its junc-
tion with the Mississippi, followed the latter to the
Gulf, where they left some memorial of their visit,
and immediately commenced their return. When
they had proceeded up the Mississippi, a hundred
and fifty leagues above the confluence of the Illinois,
they were taken prisoners by some Indian tribes,
and carried towards its sources, nineteen days' jour-
ney, into the territories of the Naudowessies and
Issati ; where they were detained in captivity three
or four months, ainl then suiTered to return. The
account which Hennepin published of his travels
and discoveries, served to throw some new light up-
on the topography, and the Indian tribes of the Ca-
nadas ; and modern geography is indebted to him,
for the names which he bestowed upon the falls of
St. Anthony, and the river St. Francis.

Vlll INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

In 1703, the Baron La Hontan published in Lori^-
don his voyages to North America, the result of a
residence of six years in the Canadas. La Hontan
served as an officer in the French army, and first
went out to Quebec in 1683. During the succeeding
four years he was chiefly stationed at Chambly,
Fort Frontenac, Niagara, St. Joseph at the foot of
Lake Huron, and the Sault de St. Marie. He ar-
rives at Michilimackinac in 1688, and there first
hears of the assassination of La Salle. In 1689, he vis-
its Green Bay, and passes through the Fox and Ous-
consing rivers into the Mississippi. So far, his work
appears to be the result of actual observation, and
is entitled to respect; but what he relates of Long
River, appears wholly incredible, and can only be
regarded as some flight of the imagination, intend-
ed to gratify the public taste for travels, during an
age when it had been highly excited by the extrar
vagant accounts which had been published respect-
ing the wealth, population, and advantages of Peru-^
Mexico, the English and Dutch colonics. New
France, the Illinois, and various other parts of the
New World. To convey some idea of this part of
the Baron's work, it will be sufficient to observe,
that after travelling ten days above the mouth of
the Ousconsing, he arrives at the mouth of a large
stream which he calls Long Rive)\ and which
he ascends eighty-four days successively, during
which he meets with numerous tribes of savages, as
the Eskoros, Essanapes, Pinnokas, Mozemleeks, &;c.
He is attended a part of the way by five or six
hundred savages as an escort — sees at one time, two
thousand savages upon the shore— and states the
population of the Essanapes, at 20,000 souls : but

INTRODUCTORY RElMARJvS. IX

this tribe is still inferior to the Mozemleeks in num-
bers, in arts, and in every other prerequisite for a
great people. " The Mozemleek nation," he ob-
serves, " is numerous and puissant. The lour slaves
of that country informed me, that at the distance of
]50 leagues from the place where I then was, their
principal river empties itself into a salt lake of three
hundred leagues in circumference — the mouth of
which is about two leagues broad; that the lower
part of that river is adorned with six noble cities,
surrounded with stone, cemented with fat earth :
that the houses of these cities have no roofs, but are
open above like a platform; that besides the above
mentioned cities, there are an hundred towns great
and small round that sort of sea ; that the people of
that country make stuffs, copper axes, and several
other manuiactures, &c."

In 1721, P. De Charlevoix, the historian of New
France, was commissioned by the French Govern-
ment, to make a tour of observation through the
Canadas; and in addition to his topographical and
historical account of New France, published a
journal of his voyage through the lakes. He was
one of the most learned divines of his age, and al-
though strongly tinctured with the doctrines of fa-
tality, and disposed to view every thing relative to
the Indian tribes with the over-zealous eye of a
Catholic missionary, yet his works bear the impress
of a strong and well cultivated mind, and abound in
philosophical reflections, enlarged views, and accu-
rate deductions ; and notwithstanding the lapse of
a century, he must still be regarded as the most
polished and illustrious traveller of the region. He

X INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

first landed at Quebec in the spring of 1721, and
immediately proceeded up the St. Lawrence to
Fort Frontenac and Niagara, where he corrects the
error in which those who preceded him had fiillen,
with respect to the height of the cataract. He pro-
ceeds through lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan,
descends the Illinois and Mississippi to New Or-
leans, then recently settled, and embarks for
France. The period of his visit, was that, when the
Mississippi Scheme was in the height of experiment,
and excited the liveliest interest in the French me-
tropolis ; people were then engaged in Louisiana in
exploring every part of the country, under the de-
lusive hope of finding rich mines of gold and sil-
ver; and the remarks he makes upon the probability
of a failure, were shortly justified by the event.

In 1760, Alexander Henry, Esq. visited the upper
lakes in the character of a trader, and devoted six-
teen years in travelling over different parts of the
northwestern region of the Canadas and the United
States. The result of his observations upon the
topography, Indian tribes, and natural history of
the country, was first published in 1809, in a volume
of travels and adventures, which is a valuable ac-
quisition to our means of information. His work
abounds in just and sensible reflections, upon
scenes, situations, and objects of the most interest-
ino- kind ; and is written in a style of the most
charming perspicuity and simplicity. He was the
first English traveller of the region.

The date of Carver's travels over those regions,
"is 1766. Carver was descended from an ancient and

iXTRODUCTORY REMARKS. XI

respectable English family in Connecticut, and had
served as a captain in the provincial army which
was disbanded after the treaty of peace of Ver-
sailles, of 1763; and united to great personal cour-
age, a persevering and observing mind. By his
bravery and admirable conduct among the powerful
tribes of Sioux and Chippeways, he obtained a
high standing among them ; and after being consti-
tuted a chief by the former, received from them
a large grant of land, which was not, however, rati-
fied by the British government. The fate of this
enterprising traveller, cannot but excite regret. —
After having escaped the massacre of Fort William
Henry, on the banks of Lake George, in 1757, and
the perils of a long journey through the American
wilderness, he was spared to endure miseries in the
heart of the British metropolis, which he had never
encountered in the huts of the American savages;
and perished for want, in the city of London^ the
seat of literature and opulence.

Between the years 1769 and 1772, Samuel
Hearne performed a journey from Prince of Wales's
fort in Hudson's bay, to the copper mine river of the
arctic ocean.

McKenzie's voyages to the Frozen and Pacific
Oceans, were performed in 1789 and 1793.

Pike ascended the Mississippi in 1805, and 1806.

Such is a brief outline of the progress of disco-
very in the northwestern regions of the United
States, by which our sources of information have

Xll INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

been from lime to time augmented, and additional
light cast upon the interesting history of our Indian
tribes, their numbers, manners, customs, trade, reli-
gion, condition with respect to comforts, and other
particulars connected with the regions thej inhabit.
Still, it cannot be denied, that amidst much sound and
useful information, there has been mingled no incon-
siderable proportion, that is deceptive, hypothetical,
or false ; and upon the whole, that the progress of
information has not kept pace with the increased im-
portance which that section of the union has latter-
ly assumed — with the great improvements of socie-
ty— and with the spirit and the enterprize of the
times. A new era has dawned in the moral history
of our country, and no longer satisfied with mere
geographical outlines and boundaries, its physical
productions, its antiquities, and the numerous other
traits which it presents for scientific research, al-
ready attract the attention of a great proportion of
the reading community ; and it is eagerly enquired
of various sections of it; whose trade, whose agri-
culture, and whose population, have been long
known, what are its indigenous plants, its zoology,
its geology, its mineralogy, ^'c. Of no part of it,
however, has the paucity of information upon these,
and upon other and more familiar subjects, been so
o-reat, as of the extreme northwestern regions of the
union — of the great chain of lakes — and of the sources
of the Mississippi river, whicli have continued to be
the subject of dispute between geographical writers.

Impressed with the importance of these facts,
Governor Cass, of Michigan, projected, in the fall
of 1819, an expedition for exploring the regions in
question; and presented a memorial to the Secreta-

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. Xlll

ty at War upon the subject, in which he proposed
leaving Detroit in the ensuing spring, in two Indian
canoes, as being best adapted to the navigation of the
shallow waters of the upper country, and to the nu=
merous portages which it is necessary to make from
stream to stream.

The specific objects of this journey, were to ob-
tain a more correct knowledge of the name», num-
bers, customs, history, condition, mode of subsist-
ence, and dispositions of the Indian tribes — to sur-
vey the topography of the country, and collect the
materials for an accurate map — to locate the site of
a garrison at the foot of Lake Superior, and to pur-
chase the ground — to investigate the subject of the
northwestern copper mines, lead mines, and gypsum
quarries, and to purchase from the Indian tribes
such tracts as might be necessary to secure to the
United States the ultimate advantages to be derived
from them, &c. To accomplish these objects, it
was proposed to attach to the expedition a topo-
graphical engineer, a physician, and a person ac-
quainted with mineralogy.

Mr. Calhoun, not only approved of the proposed
plan, but determined to enable the Governor to car-
ry it into complete effect, by ordering an escort of
soldiers, and enjoining it upon the commandants of
the frontier garrisons, to furnish every aid that the
exigencies of the party might require, either in men,
boats, or supplies. It is only necessary to add, that
I was honoured with the appointment of mineralo-
gist to the expedition, iu which capacity, I kept the

XIV INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

following Journal.* In presenting it to the public,
it will not be deemed improper if I acknowledge the
obligations which I have incurred in transcribing it,
by availing myself of a free access to the valuable
Library of His Excellency De Witt Clinton; and
of the taste and skill of Mr. Henry Inman, in drawing
a number of the views which embellish the work.
HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.
Albany, May lith, 182L

* I have received enquiries from several individuals, grounded
on the supposition that my Journal would contain all the topo-
graphical information, collected on the expedition. It may be
proper to observe, that it only embraces my individual observa-
tions upon that, and the other subjects brought into view; and that
another work may be expected, containing Professor Douglass'
Topographical Report and Map, together with the other Reports^
and the scientific observations of the expedition generally.

CONTENTS

Pfte

CHAP. I.-^Prelimlnary Tour from the City of New-York to Detroit, 17

CHAP II. — Journey from Detroit to Michilimackinac, ... 66

CHAP. IIT. — Six Day's residence at Michilimackinac, . . 110

CHAP. IV. — Journey from Michilimackinac to the Sault deSt. Marie, 125

CHAP. V. — Journeyfrom the Sault de St. Marie to the Ontonagon river, 141

CHAP. VI.— Visit to the Copper Mines, 171

CHAP, VII. — Journey from the Ontonagon river to the Fond du Lac, 189

CHAP. Vin.— Journey from the Fond du Lac to Sandy Lake . . 206

CHAP. IX. — Journey from Sandy Lake to tlie Sources of the Mississippi, 238
CHAP. X. — Journey from Sandy Lake to the American Garrison at

St. Peter's, ........ 269

CHAP XI — 'Jjurney from St. Peter's to Prairie du Chien, . . 315

CHAP XII.— Visit to the Lead Mines of Dubuque, ... 340

CHAP XlII— Journey from Prairie du Chien to Green Bay, . • 358

CHAP. XIV.— Journey from Green Bay to Chicago, . . . 378

CHAP. XV. — Journey from Chicago to Michilimackinac, . . 388-

OHAP. XVI.— Return to Detroit, ....... 408

THE PLATES.

Page
PLATE I. — The Doric Rock on Lake Superior, (vignette on title page,)

Description of this view, 153

PLATE II. — Indian Canoe, and Manufactures, . , . . 68

PLATE III,— Sault de St. Marie, 131

PLATE IV.— Geological View of Rock Formations on Lake Superior, 153
PL \TE v.— Pictured Rocks on Lake Superior, .... 159
PL.\TE VI. — Copper Rock on the Ontonagon river, . . . 177
PLATE VII.— Falls of St. Anthony, ....... 289

PLATE VIII.— Fungite, 398

Cassina Lake, (on the Map,) Description, . . . . 251

NARRATIVE JOURNAL

THROUGH THE NORTHWESTERN REGIONS OF THE tWITED STAtES.

CHAPTER I.

PRELJMIJsrJlRY TOUR, FROM THE CITY OF J^EW-TORK
TO DETROIT.

A HE determination of limiting the operations of the
expedition to the arctic regions of the United States,
and thereby putting it in our power to accomplish
the journey within the current year (1820) ; and the
desire of visiting the most remote points on our north-
western frontier during the summer season, had ren-
dered an early departure an object of the first mo-
ment. But the mode of our conveyance (in Indian
canoes) naturally detained us until the breaking up
of the ice in the lakes, and it was considered ex-
tremely hazardous to undertake the navigation until
they were perfectly clear of floating ice. This point
being determined, the members of the expedition,
were left to exercise their own judgment and con-
venience, as to the time and mode of proceeding to
the place of embarkation, Detroit. A time not ca-
pable of being designated with astronomical preci-
sion, but dependant wholly upon the natural distri-
bution of atmospheric heat, shewed the neceesity ot

18

a careful attention to the state of the weather, and
the advance of spring. The year commenced with
south winds, changing to the southeast, west, and
northwest, and attended with light enows.* The
Delaware, Susquehanna, and the Hudson, as far ais
West Point, were frozen hard on the first of January.
February gave a week of pleasant weather at the
commencement, which was succeeded with hi2;h
winds from the north, and northeast, and between
the tenth and eleventh there was a heavy fall of snow,
so that it lay four feet deep in the streeis of New-
York. This gave good sleighing for two weeks,
when a thaw commenced, and the last days of the
month were mild and pleasant. March commenced
with unusual mildness, with varying and occasionally
blustering wind, but no snow was to be seen on the
fourth of that month, and an opinion was entertained^
that the Hudson would open a fortnight before its
usual period.t Every appearance indicated an
early spring, an occurrence which we may, in our

* A ireleorologkal register kept during this month in New-
York, indicated an average heat of 18° at 7 A. M 2 8° at 2 P M.
and l6° at 9 P M, Out of the month, tliirteen days were mark-
ed " cloudy," and eighteen " clear." The wind blew south seven
days, southeast six days, west five days, north four days, south-
^vest three da>s, and northwest seven days. Snow fell on the
10th, 17th, 21st, 25th, and 29th.

t In the year 1755, noted for the defeat of Gen. Dieskau, at
Lake George, the Hudson opened as far as Albany on the 14th
day of January, and the following year it was open on the 14lh of
February, so that Gov. Fletcher sailed from New York on that
day with 300 volunteers, to repel an irruption made by the French
upon the Mohawks, and landed at Albany two days afterwards.
These are the mildest winters of which any record has been pre-
served.— Smith's History of New-York,

19

climate, (latitude 40° to 44°) sometimes expect, and
"which hy terminating our winter with the month of
February, adds three or four weeks to our mildest
and most delightful season. Under this impression,
I left New-York on the 5th of March, in the citizens'
post coach for Albany, a mode of conveyance which
only exists during the recess of the running of the
steam boats ; and which by combining a good de-
gree of comfort and convenience, compensates, so
far as land stages appear capable of compensating,
for the wonderful degree of celerity, comfort, and
ease, afforded by the line of internal steam boat na-
vigation, that connects New-lork and Albany, nine
months in the year.* Passing through Kings-
bridge, Phillipsbourg, Tarrytown, Sing Sing, and
Peekskill, we crossed the Highlands of the Hudson
during the evening, and lodged at Fishkill, a post
town of Dutchess county, sixty -five miles from New-
York. On the bth, we passed Poughkeepsie, Rhine-
beck, and Hudson, and lodged at Kinderhook, and
reached Albanyt on the morning of the 7th. The
entire distance is one hundred and sixty miles, which

* The invention of the steam boat is an event which will
long render the year 1807 conspicuous in the annals of mechanical
invention. It was during this year, after a long period spent ia
experiments on the appHcaticn of the steam engine in propelling
boats, that success crowned the efforts of Robert Fulton in the con-
struction of the first steam boat called the North River, which
performed a trip from Npw York to Albany, carrying a number of
passengers to witness the nautical phenomenon of a vessel going;
at the rate of seven miles against wind and tide.

See Golden' s Life of Fulton*

t By the census of 1820, Albany has a population of 12,541;
being 1779 more than it had in 1810.

26

we accomplished in forty hours actual travelling, in-
cluding detention at post-offices and taverns, giving
an average of four miles per hour. This is about
the rate of travelling in the Trekschuits of Holland,*
and upon the frozen grounds in Russia.f

On our arrival at Greenbush, we found the ice in
the Hudson too unstable to admit of crossing upon
it, and vt^ere passed over in a boat propelled along a
path cut through the ice.f There was some snow
in the streets of Albany, and a cold wind from the
north presaged a check to the advance of spring,
which had a few days before, given such flattering
proofs of an early development. On the succeed-
ing day (the 8th) there arose a hail storm from the
northwest, which continued, attended with rain and
sleet, during the whole day and succeeding night,
and on the morning of the 9th, the hail lay eight
inches deep in the streets of the city, and upon the
surrounding plains ; and presented the novel spec-

* See Hall's Modern PariSf in the Literary and Philosophical
Repertory.

t Clarke's Travels in Russia.

'^ To travellers, and others, who wish to study the topography
of this route, the viap of the Hudson between Sandy Hook and San-
dy Hill, with the post road between New-York and Albany, recently
published by A. T. Goodrich & Co. will prove a valuable docu-
ment. In regard to the general geography and statistics of the
country, Spafford's Gazetteer of New-York may be advantageously
consulted. The history of the discovery of this river by Henry
Hudson, in l609, will be found in the 2d Vol. of the Collections of
the New-York Historical Society. Its geological character is detail-
ed in Ackerlyh Essay on the Geology of the Hudson river, a work
which is accompanied by an excellent geological map ; and in
Eaton^s Indeif to the Geology of the Northern States^ 2d edition.

21

tacle of good sleighing produced by a fall of hail. —
The storm had abated, but not ceased, in the even-
ing, when I proceeded in the stage to Schenectady.
The route lies by a well constructed turnpike of six-
teen miles, across the Pine Plains, a district of san-
dy alluvion, bounded by the gravelly soil of Guilder-
land and Duanesburgh on the southwest, and by the
river alluvions of Niskayuna and Watervliet, on the
northeast, and covering an area of about seventy
square miles. Thistractisincludedinatriangleformed
by the junction of the Mohawk with the Hudson, and
of which the Helleberg, a lofty chain of highlands,
visible from the plains at the distance of twenty miles,
forms the southwestern boundary. Situated near the
centre of a state, computed at 40,000 square miles,
and containing a population of 1,200,000 souls,* this
tract presents the topographical novelty of an unre-
claimed desert, in the heart of one of the oldest coun-
ties in the state, and in the midst of a people char-
acterized for enterprise and public spirit. Several
attempts have lately been made to bring this tract
into cultivation, and from the success which has at-
tended the introduction of gypsum, and other im-
proved modes of agriculture, it is probable the whole
wilh at some future period, be devoted to the cultiva-
tion of the various species of grasses, fruit trees, and
esculent roots ; three branches of agriculture to
w hich its sandy soil seems admirably adapted, it is
certainly an object worthy the attention of those so-
cieties whose efforts to improve the systems of crop-
ping, to facilitate the progress of farming by the intro-

* This is an estimate warranted by partial returns of the census
now taking. The population of New York in 1810, was 959j220.
Sj) qford's Gazetteer.

22

duction of labour-saving implements and machines,
and to emulate agricultural industry by the annual
distribution of premiums, are already manifest in the
improved state of farms, orchards, and breeds of do-
mestic animals. After travelling fifteen miles through
the Pine Plains, which present a succession of the
most uninteresting views, the eye is relieved on emer-
ging, somewhat abruptly, from the forest of pines, on
entering the city of Schenectady, — a town which is
characterized as the site of an Indian massacre in
J 690, — the seat of the foundation of a College in
1794,* the residence of a population of 5,909 inhab-
itants in 1810, and the victim of one of the most ter-
rible conflagrations in the fall of 1 8 1 0.f As we enter-
ed the town, the snow, which had imperceptibly suc-
ceeded to the hail and sleet of the morning, entirely
ceased, and was followed by a night of severe cold.
The preceding day (the lOth,) I took the stage
which left Albany at four in the morning, and reach-
ed Utica at seven in the evening, being a distance of
Binety-six miles in seventeen hours. The road lies
up the valley of the Mohawk, and the towns succes-
sively passed, are New Amsterdam, Caughnawaga,
Palatine, Little Falls, and Herkimer. There is little

» See Smith's History of New- York, p. 115.

f " On the morning of the 17th insl. (Nov. 1819) at 4 o'clock, a most
awful conflagration commenced its ravages in the city of Schenec-
tady, and continu' d with unremitted violence, until about 11
o'clock in the forenoon. It broke out in a Currier's shop in Water-
street, near the store of John Moyston, and destroyed about 100
stores and dwelling houses in State, Church, Union, Washington,
and Front Streets. It was by the most extraordinary exfrtions
only, that the bridge over the Mohawk was saved, having been on
fire at every iiier."— Plough Boy, Vol. I. p. 199-

23

either in the taste of buildings, condition of inhabi-
tants, or state of improvements, to elicit description.
A valley celebrated for the fertility of its soil, now
covered with snow and chilled with a driving wind
from the north, presented a scene of polar inclemen-
cy, and could not be distinguished from plains of ir-
reclaimable sterility. The season was equally unfa-
vourable for observing the physical productions and
constitution of the country, or the labour that has
been bestowed in rendering them subservient to ti.e
wants and the convenience of life. But the sites of
towns, the banks of rivers, plains, or mountains, which
have once witnessed the effects of human industry,
whether in war or in peace, while they experience
the most striking physical revolutions, preserve a
moral character, which no change can obliterate ;
and we cannot pass through the country formerly
possessed by the Mohawks, without recurring to the
savage cruelties and murders, the battles, and the am-
buscades, of which it was so long the conspicuous
theati e. This powerful and warlike tribe was one of
the principal members of the Iroquois confederacy,
so long the terror and the glory of the North Ameri-
can Indians. The other members of it, were the Onei-
das, the Onondagas, the Cayugas, the Setiecas, and
the Tuscaroras.* They inhabited the country, when
first visited by Europeans, from the Highlands of the
Hudson to the banks of the Niagara, and they had
either pushed their conquests, or carried the terror

* The Tuscaroras did not oviginalI\' belong to the confederacy,
but inhabited the back parts of North Carolina, where having form-
ed a conspiracy to destroy all the whites, they were defeated
and driven away in 1712, and were subsequently received and
adopted by the lto([ims.'^Smith^s History of Neic-York,

•4*'-

24

of their arms, from the island of Montreal to the banks
of the Mississippi. The league was formed before
their acquaintance with Europeans, and it is the
only instance to be found in the history of the aborigi-
nes, of a permanent union for the general welfare
and defence. There are two other instances of a
temporary confederation of tribes, instituted through
the energy of two chiefs, of similar character, at dis-
tant periods, — that of Pontiac, against the English,
and that of Tecumseh, against the Americans. But
these, although powerful, were temporary confedera-
cies, and dissolved with the fall of the respective
chiefs with whom they had originated. The Iro-
quois, on the contrary, had not united for any speci-
fic, but for general purposes ; their compact was of
immemorial standing, and is never known to have
been broken, in a single instance. United by the
ties of blood, speakingj dialects of one language, in-
habiting the same country and climate, and acting in
one cause, they had acquired a national pride, and a
national character ; and when we reflect upon the
advances they had made in the art of government, and
the sound maxims of policy by which they were uni-
formly actuated, we cannot suppress the wish that the
period of the discovery of the new world had been
deferred a century longer, that we might have view-
ed the Northern Indian in a state of civilization, which
it is not now probable we shall ever behold.* The ef-

* For an account of the numbers, government, exploits, and cus-
toms of the Iroquois, see Gov. Clinton's Discourse before the New-
York Historical Society, 2d vol. of their Collections. Colden's His-
tory of the Five Nations. La Hontan's Voyages to Canada. —
Journal of a voyage to North Americajby Charlevoix. Smith's His-
tory of New-York.

25

feet we cannot doubt, would have been auspicious to
the cause of'tlie Jndians.and gratifjing to th/? inends of
philafitliropj.* Of this confederacy, which furnishes
the strongestevidence of the intellectual vigour of the
aborigiijes, and which has been entirely forgotten,
as a confederacy, among the local names of the
country which they once occupied, and still, in limi-
ted tracts, possess ; the Mohawks were the most
bloody, the most artful, the bravest, and the most
powerful. They occupied the very extensive dis-
trict of alluvial lands from Scaghticoke on the Hoo-
sick river, to the banks of the Oriskany, in Oneida,
and had such weight in the confederacy that it was
sometimes even denominated by their name.t

From the time of my departure from New-York, the
weather had gradually assumed a character of such
sevetity, as to forbid the expectation of a speedy
openitig of the northern lakes, and left me at liberty
to proceed with more leisure ; a circunistance of
which I availed myself by spending several days at
Utica, and the villages adjacent. Standing at the
head of the Mohawk, and at the intersection of the
most important roads from the north -and the west
part of the state, Utica unites extraordinary advan-
tages, as a point for the sale and exchange of the
products of agriculture and domestic manufactures.
It is the emporium of one of the most extensive and
ferlde districts of farming lands in the state, and the
advantages of geographical position, will be still fur-
ther augmented by the Erie canal, which is to pass

* Smith's History of New-York, p. 72.

t Govern r Clinton's Discnurse before the New-York Historical
Society, 2d vol. of their Coilectioiis, p. 49.

4

26

throu2;b (he centre of the town.* This vllJage
lies in norLh latitnde 43° t' and occupies the ancient
site of Fort Schujler ; a name that recalls the mem-
ory of a soldier and a patriot of the revolution.! It
was first incorporated in 1798. under the jiame of the
vill jge of Fort Schuyler. In 1 ;;05, this act was repeal-
ed, and a new one passed conierring additional privi-
leges, and its Asiatic name. In 1810, it contained a
population of 1700 inhabitants, and consisted of 300
dwelling houses and stores, exclusive of churches and
other public buildings. Its subsequent increase has
been very rapid ; and the style of architecture and
general appearance of the town, indicate the taste
and the public spirit which prevails. Fifteen miles

* Siiico that period, the canal has been finished from Utica to
Seneca river, a distance of ninety-six miles, and the perma-
nency of the works, the number of boats loaded with the pro-
duce of the country, which have consfantly covered it, and other
circnmstances have been snch as to realize ihe uiost sanguine ex-
pectations ot the friends and projectors of that great work.

f My New York readers will undoubtedly excuse me for present-
ing; the followiuif jui^t and feeling tribute to the talents and patriot-
ism of the late Gen. Schuyler, from the pen cf a contemporary
soldier and pal riot, Col. Troi:p, of Geneva.

" I should outrage every feeling of my nature, were I to lay down
my pen without paying, in the warmest languageof the heart, the
li^inage of my unfeigned gratitude to the memory of General
Schuyler, for the patriotism which led him to devote to the Lake
Canal Policy^ that ardent zeal, and those extraordinary talents
•wh^ch marked his glorious career in our revolutionary contest j a
career that justly entitles him to be ranked in the number of the
illustrious founders of our republic. And, I hope to be pardoned
for subjoining, that whenever imagination places this very di:>tin-
guishcd man before me, I soon become confounded with shame
for the extreme neglect — I will not call it ingratitude, with which
the state has treated his venerable name."

Vindication of the Lake Canal Poliq/^

27

northwest of Utica, lies the site of Fort Stamvix,
(now occupied by the village of Rome) ♦he scene
of one of the struggles of our revolutionary contest.
This fort was first built about the year J 758, by the
British, but falHng into decay, was repaired and en-
larged in 1"7G, and in the following year sustained,
under the command of the la^e Major General Ganse-
voort, a siege of twenty-two days, from a combined
force of British and Indians, under the command of
Col. St. Ledger, it was in marching to the relief of
this I ost, that the unfortunate Gen. Herkimer, falling
into an Indian ambuscade on the banks of the Oris-
kany, lost his life, and the greatest part of his army.
With the retreat of St. Ledger, (who, after a sortie
from the garrison, led by Col. Marinus Willett, in
which four stands of colours were captured,* was
compelled to raise the siege) departed, the Mohawk
Indians, then in alliance with the British, and they
have never since appeared, as a nation, within our
precincts.

On the 10th of April, I took the stage which left
Utica at two in the morning, and passing through
Vernon, Manlias, and Onondaga, lodged at Skene-
atelas, a neat and airy village on the banks of one of
those beautiful and transparent little lakes which cast
such a charm over the scenery of v\ estern New- York.

* I do not find ihis sally of the besieired garrison recorded in
any history, and it is here mentioned on the authority of a p rson
(Col. Lawrence Schoolcraft, the father of t!ie writer) who was pre-
sent upon that occasion. This action is also character zpd as afford-
ing one ofthp proofs of which the events of that war afforded ma-
ny, "fthe triumph of militia, and raw recruits, acting under a strong
sense of political 'ppression, and an « nthu-iastic love of liberty,
over well disciplined and veteran troops, who were that day driven
at the point of the bayonet.

28

On the eleventh, we passed Auburn* at an ear-
ly hour, and crossing Cayuga lake by a wooden
bridge of a mile in length, reached Geneva at one
o'clock in the afternoon. The entire distance is nine-
ty-six miles. The route lies across the important
agricultural counties of Oneida, Sullivan, Onondaga,
Cayuga, Seneca, and a part of Ontario, a part of the
extensive country formerly occupied by the Iroquois,
whose great council fire was fixed at Onondaga,t
where a part of that tribe still remain. It is the
scene of the operations of Gen. Sullivan's army in the
summer of 1779, when the Iroquois tribes paid the
price of their constancy to the British, in the de-
struction of their villages, the slaughter and expulsion
of a great part of their population, and the total an-
nihilation of their power as a confederacy and a peo-
ple. There is no account of a general council held by
them after the operations of this year, and the seat of
their council fire, which is always sacred and im-

* The increase of this village, within the last ten years, is
surprising, and may be cited from an hundred other instances, to
convey an idea of the growth, population, and improvements of the
western parts of New-York. In 1810, Spafford stat--? it to consist
of 100 iiouses and stores, mostly built within the last 6 years. The
census of 1820 gives the following result — Auburn paper.

Private Buildings. ru\>lic BuiMing^s. Maniifactiires. Inbabitantii.

-oocjo ' °tj,i'~^-::rr-i5 ^=:-gS?=-

illi s'ta-ltlrio'-Z ll'l^slai

ft; 'i

t Smith's History of New-York, p. CS.

29

moveable among Indian tribes, had fallen into the
hands of their enemies. After this defeat, a groat
proportion of the tribes fled to Canada, and of two
entire tribes, the Cayugas and the Mohawks, there is
not an individual left. What remains of the tribes
which were not then expelled, or have since expatri-
ated theuiselves, is to be seen in the villages of the
Oneidas and Onondagas, and such of the Senecas as id
Tuscaroras, as are located near Buifalo.* A couiity
that was then the theatre of a frontier war, and the
inheritance of a powerful nation of semi-barbarians,
is now smiling under the hand of agricuhure, and
checquered with towns, and villages, roads and ca-
nals, the seats of learning, and the temples of religion.
Perhaps no country presents so remarkable an in-
stance of the progress of human settlements. achieved
in so short a period of time.f A lapse of forty years

*The Stockbri(Jo;e Indians settled on the Oneida r'^servation. are
not of the race of the Iroquois. They miofrated from the banks of
the Hudson in 1734 to Stoi kbridge, in Massachusetts, and from
thence about the year 1785 removed to the spot they now occupy.
The Brothertovvn Indians are descendants of the Muhhek now
who formerly inhabited the country about Narracrao-et. in Rhode-
Island.- C/in ton's Discourse before the Historical Society of New-
York, p. 43, 2d vol. Collections of that Society.

t Licrease of Population. — I.t the year 1790, the then county of
Ontario, according to the census then taken, contained but 205
families, and 108 ! inhabitants. " In the same territory, (says the
Canandaigua Repository,) in the year J 800 ; except the county of
Steuben, which was setoff in 1796) the pf>pulation was 12. .584.
The county of Genesee was erected in 1806, and the counties of
Niagara, Chautauque, and Cataragus. 1808 ; leaving for the county
of Ontario, its present territory. In tSiO, this county contained
42,032 ; in 1814, it contained 57;630 ; and the census now taking
is expected to show about 90,000. Genesee and Niagara have in-

3(j

has already rendered it difficult to distinguish be-
tween those tumuli, ancient lortificatioiis, and other
antiquities which owe their origia to an anterior mce
of inhabitants, and those marks oi" occupation left by
the Iroquois, or attributable to the I'rench

On passing through Oneida county on the JOth of
April, there was still some snow to be seen in situa-
tions shaded by the buildings or fences, but it had
entirely disappeared in the roads, and in the open
fields. The roads continued muddy to Onondaga
East Hill ; on the West Hill, they were dry, and so
continued with partial exceptions, to Geneva, where
the clouds of dust by which we were enveloped, and
the appearances of vegetation, indicated the benign
climate which pervades the luxuriant country of the
Genesee. Every appearance indicated a season ten
days more advanced than the valley ot tlie Mohawk,
which is only separated by the distance of a huiidred
miles. The wild poplar put forth Ie;wes on the
i8th, the house popular (^po/mlus dUatatd) on the 23d,
apricots were in blossom on the 22d. The ther-
mometer observed at one o'clock, P. M. varied, be-
tween the 1 Uh and 28th, from 60°, to 78°, of Fahren-
heit, during which period the weather was clear,
mild, and pleasant, with the exception of a fall of rain
on the 26th and 27th. The village of Geneva, occu-
pying a beautiful eminence at the head of Seneca
Lake, and surrounded by a district of country, under

creased nearly in the same proportion. The census in the several
counties, for 1820, is not yet completed ; but the total po|)ulation
in the territory, which, only thirty years since, contained but ten
hundred and eighty one souls, doubtless excet-ds two hu>dred
THOUSAND ! ! — We doubt whether a parallel can be found, in the
rise and progress of any country in any age." — iV. Y. Statesman.

ti-ry^^

3t

a high state of cultivation and improvement, pre-
sents a most picturesque appearance, on approach-
ing it in a clear day from the east; and the display of
the town, so highly favoured by local advantages, at
the distance of a mile, creates an idea of wealth,
taste, and business, which is not disappointed on be-
holding it the centre of a populous agricultural dis-
trict, the mart of its produce and the theatre of its
exchange, where the intersection of several import-
ant roads, and a branch of the Erie Canal, facilitate
a ready intercourse with all parts of the state. A
person of information who has had opportunities of
occular comparison, is disposed to consider the na-
tural advantages of this village and vicinity, as a
place susceptible of rural embellishments, superior
to that of the celebrated citv of Switzerland, in allu-
sion to which it has been named.

On the 28th of April, I left Geneva, and passing
through Canandaigua, Bloomficld, and Lima, lodged
at Avon, upon the banks of Genesee river. On the
following day we passed through Caledonia, Le Roy,
Batavia, Pembroke, and Clarence, and arrived at
Buffalo in the evening, a distance of 210 miles from
Utica. This route lies across the populous coun-
ties of Ontario, Genesee, and Niagara, colloquially
known under the name of the Genesee country, and
proverbial for the fertiHty of its soil.* We found

* At the annual fair and cattle show in Ontario county, in the
fall of I8l9i premiums were awarded on the following articles, viz :

Best winter wheat, 80 bushels 12 qts. on the acre.

Barley, 34 bushels on the acre.

Peas, 32 bushels 4 qts. on the acre. — Canandaigua Paper.

In Onondaga county at the ngricultural fair of the same seaeoH,
premiums were awarded on,

32

the peach, and the earher varieties of apple tree^
every wiiere in blossom, aiul the beech (^ f citrus ferru-
gtnea,) the wild poplar, or the American Aspen, and
some other species of the early sprouting forest trees,
already gave the forest a vernal aspect. These ap-
pearances continued until within eight or ten miles
of Buffalo, where the influence of the lake winds,
and the bodies of unmelted ice in the lakes, have a
sensible effect upon the progress of vegetation,
which appears to be retarded eight or ten days later
on account of this exposure. The peach tree had
there budded, but not yet blown. We found the
lake still covered with floating ice, and no vessel had

The best Winter Wheat, 37 bushels 14lbs. to the acre.

do.
do.
do.
do.
. do.
Onondaga paper.
Id Oneida County, at the annual fair and catUe show, of the
same season, the follovviiitr anifles rpceived preuiiums :

Winter Wheat, Reuben Gridley, of Paris, two acres 72 bushels
per acre.

Sprinir Whi at. Jona. Wih-ox, Paris, 44 bushels per af're.
Indian Corn, Samuel Cary, Deerfield. J 19 bushels per acre.
Barley, R. Southvvt. rth, Paris 56 bushels 28 quarts per acre.
Oats, Jed. Sano;pr, Whitestown. 84i per. acre.
Feas, D. Barton, Paris. .'iS busheis per acre.
Polatois, A. Bartlett, Paris^ 5( 5 bu'-hels per acre.
Butter, D. Barton, Paris, had already made 3i07 pounds from
21 cows. — Plough Bey and Journal of the Board of Agriculture by
S. Southwick, Vol. 1.

But the greatest product of Indian corn raised during; this sea-
son, and perhaps t!ie c^reatest ever known, was by Mr Jedediah
Dusenbury> of Portland, Chautauque county, which was 132 bush-
els 12 quarts from an acre. — Plough Boy, Vol. 1. p. 199

Spring

23

33

Barley

41

17

Flax,

350 lbs.

Oats,

54

11

Corn,

121

12 qts.

33

attempted the navigation. The steam boat had ad-
vertised to start on her first trip, on the first of May,
but the backward state of the weather, and the ice
in the lake, had induced the captain to defer it until
the Gth, leavino; me a week to visit the Palls of Ni-
agara, and the battle grounds on the north banks of
the Niagara.

The town of Buffalo contained a hundred houses,
besides the county buildings, in 1810,* On the M)th
of December, 18|3, it was burnt by a party of Bri-
tish troops and Indians, who laid waste this frontier.
It has since been rebuilt with increased elegance,
and is now a town of about 200 buildings, a pro-
portion of which are of brick. It occupies an em-
inence, which was recommended to the French go-
vernment, as a commandin.ii site for a garrison, by
the Baron La Hontan, in 16'.)3, and marked Fort
Suppose^ upoi' his map.t Tlie first vessel which navi-
gated Lake Erie, was built in this vicinity by La Sal-
le, in 1679, being a vessel of sixty tons burden.J
A part of the tribe of the Seneca Indians, about
700 souls, are located in this vicinity. The vi lao-e
of Black Rock, the residence of Gen. Peter B. Porter,
is situated two miles below, at a s[)ot which is sup-
posed to unite superior advantages, as a place of
trade, and a harbour for vessels.

On the first of May, I visited the celebrated Falls
©f Niagara,^ situated 22 miles below. Keeping the

* Spafford.

t La Honlan's New Voyages to Canada, p. 187, vol. 1.

% Smith's History of New-York, p. SO.

§ This is an Iroquois word said to signify the thunder of waters.
and the word as slill pronounced by ihe Senecas is 0-ni-Gd-gdrdh,

5

u

American shore, the road lies over an alluvial coun-
try, elevated from ten to twentj feet above the water
of the river, without a hill, or a ledge of rocks, and
with scarce an undulation of surface, to indicat<- the
existence, or prepare the eye for the stupenduous
prospect which bursts, somewhat unexpectedly, into
view. The daj was clear and warm, with a light
breeze blowing down the river. We stopped fre-
quently on our approach to listen for the sound of
the Fall, but at the distances of fifteen, ten, eight, and
evrn five miles, could not distinguish any, even by
laying the ear to the ground. It was not until
within three n iles of the precipice, where the road
runs close to the edge of the river, and brings the ra-
pids in full view, that we could distinctly hear the
sound, which then, owing to a change of the wind,
fell so heavy upon the ear, that in proceeding a short
distance, it was difficult to maintain a conversation, as
we rode along. On reaching the Falls, nothing struck
me with more surprise, than that the Baron La IJon-
tan, who visited it in August, 1688, should have fal-
len into so egregious a mistake, as to the height of
the perpendicular pitch, which he represents at seven
or eight hundred feet* Nor does the narrator of the
discoveries of the iinfortunate La Salle, Monsieur
Tonti, approach much nearer to the truth, when he
states it at six hundred feet-t CharIevoix,whose work

being strongi v accentuated on th*^ third syllable, while the interjec-
tion O, is so feebly uttered, that without a nice attention, it jnay
escape notice.

* La H onfall's Voyages, vol. I p. 82.

t An Account of the last Expedition and Discoveries of Mon-
sieur De La Salle. — Collections oj the, Mw-York Historical Society,-
Vol. IL p. 228.

35

is characterized by more accuracy, learning, arid re-
search, Jhan those who had preceded him, and who
saw the Falls in 1721, makes, on the contrary, an es-
timate which is surprising for the degree of accuracy
he has attained. '* For my own part," he says, " af-
ter examining it on all sides, where it could be view-
ed to the greatest advantao-e, I am inclmed to think
we cannot allow it less than a hundred and forty
or fifty feet,"* The latter, (one hundred and fifty) is
precisely what the Fall on the Canadian side, is now
estimated at. There is a rapid of two miles in ex-
tent above, and another of seven miles, extending to
Lewiston, below the Falls. The breadth across, at
the brink of the Fall, which is serrated and irregular,
is estimated at four thousand two hundred and thirty
feet, or a little more than three-fourths of a mile.
The Fall on the American shore is one hunderd and
sixty-four feet, being the highest known perpendi-
cular pitch of so great a volume of water.f 'I he fall
of the rapid above, commencing at Chippewa, is
estimated at ninety feet, and the entire fall of Niaga-
ra river from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, a distance
of thirty-five miles, at three hundred feet. Goat
Island, which divides the water into two unequal
sheets, has recently been called /m,(in allusion to the
perpetual rain bows by which it is characterized; by

* Charlevoix's Journal of a Voyage to North America, vol. I.
p. 353.

t It is in the volume of faliinsT watfr only, ihat Niagara claims
a pre eminence. There are many hio:;her falls in various parts
of South America and Kiirope. The greatest water fall in Eurupe,
is on the river Lattin, in Lapland, which is half a mile widci and
has a perpendicular pitch of 400 feet.

36 J

llic commissioners for settling tlie boundaries of the ^
United States, actinoj under the treaty of Ghent In
approaching this cataract from Lewiston, tlie elevat-
ed and rocky description of country it is necessary
to cross, together with the increased distance at
which the roar is heard in that direction, must serve
to prepare the mind for encountering a scene which
there is nothing to indicate on approaching from Buf-
falo ; and this impression unquestiona'ly continues
to exercise an effect upon the beholder, after his ar-
rival at the falls The first European visitors be-
held it und* r thii> influence. Following the path of
the Couriers de Eois, they proceeded from Montreal
up the St Lawrence, to Fort Caderacqui. and around
the simres of Lake Ontario, to the alluvial tract which
stretches from the mouth of Niagara river, to the
site of Lewiston. Here the /i^i./ife, emphatically so cal-
led, commences, and the number of elevations which
it is necessary to ascend in crossing it, may, without
a proper consideration of the intermediate descents,
have led those who formerly approached that way
into error, such as La Hontan, and Tonti fell into.
Thev must have been deprived also of the advanta-
ges ofthe view from the gulph at the foot of the Falls,
for we are not prepared to admit the possibility of a
descent without artificial stairs, or other analogous
labourious and dangerous works, such, as at tljat re-
mote period, must have been looked upon as a stu-
pendous undertaking ; and could not, indeed, have
been accompli^^hed, surrounded as the French then
were, by their enemies, the jealous and ever watchful
Iroquois. The descent at the present period, with
every advantage arising {rojn. the labours of mechan-
ical ingenuity, cawiot be performed without leeling

37

some degree of personal solicitude. It is in thi;?
chasm that the sound of the water, falls heaviest upon
the car, and that the mind becomes i'uWy impressed,
with the appalling majesty of the Fall. Other views
from the banks on both sides of the river, and from
the Island of Iris, in its centre, are more beautiful and
picturesque; but it is here that the tremulous motion
of the earth, the clouds of irridescent spraj, the
broken column of falling water, the stunning sound,
the lofty banks of the river, and the wide spread-
ing ruin of rocks, imprint a character of wonder
and terror upon the scene, which no other point
of view is capable of producing. The spectator,
who, on alighting at Niagara, walks hastily to the
brink, feels his attention imperceptibly rivited to
the novel and striking phenomenon before him, and,
at this moment, is apt either to over-rate or to under-
ratethe magnitude of the Fall. It is not easy to erect
a standard of comparison ; and the view requires to
be studied in order to attain a just conception and ap-
preciation of its grandeur and its beauties. The ear
is at first stunned by the incessant roar, and the eye
bewildered in the general view. In proportion as these
become familiarized, we seize upon the individual fea-
tures of the landscape, and are enabled to distinguish
between the gay and the sombre, the bold and the
picturesque, the harsh and the mellow traits, which,
like the deep contrasted shades of some high wrought
picture, contribute to give effect to the scene. It
was some tii^e before f could satisfy myself of the ac-
curacv of the accredited measurements of the height
of the Fall, and not until after I had made repeated
visits, and spent a considerable time in the abyss
below. There appears a great disproportion be-

38

tween t' c height and the width of the falling sheet,
but ihe longer I remained, the more magnificent it
appeared to me ; and hence it is, that with some-
thing like a feeling of disappointment, on mv first
arrival, I left the Falls, after a visit of two days, with
an impression of the scene, which every thing I had
previously read, had failed to create. At the time of
my visit, ihe wind drove the floating ice out of Lake
Erie, with the drift wood of its tributary rivers, and
these were constantly precipitated over the Falls, but
we were not able to discover any vestiges of them
in the eddies below. Immediately in front of the
sheet of falhng water, on the American side, there
was also an enormous bank of snow, of nearly an
hundred feet in height, which the power of the sun
had not yet been fierce enough to dissolve, and
which, by giving an Icelandic character to the land-
scape, produced a fine effect. It appeared to me to
owe its accumulation, to the falling particles of froz-
en spray.

What has been said by Goldsmith, and repeated
by others, respecting the destructive influence of the
rapids above, to ducks and other water fowl, is only
an effect of the imagination. So far from being the
case, the wild duck, is often seen to swim down the
rapid to the brink of the Falls, and then fly out, and
repeat the descent, seeming to take a dehght, in the
exercise. Neither are small land-birds aifected on
flying over the Falls, in the manner that has been sta-
ted. I observed the blue bird and the wren, which
had already made their animal visit to the banks of
the Niagara, frequently fly within one or two feet of
the brink, apparently delighted with the gift of their
wings, which enabled them to sport over such fright-

39

fill precipices, without danger. We are, certainly,
not well pleased to find, that some of the wonderful
stories, we have read of the Falls, during boyhood,
do not turn out to be the truth ; but, at the same
time, a little aitention is only necessary to discover,
that many interestirsg facts and particulars, remain
unnoticed, which fully compensate for others, that
have been overstrained or misstated. Among these,
the crystalline appearacsces, disclosed among the
prostrate ruins, and the geological character of the
Fall itself, are noJ the least interesting.

The scenes wbere nature has experienced her
greatest convulsions, are always the most favourable
for acquiring a knowledge of the internal structure
of the earth. The peaks of the highest mour>tains,
and the depths of the lowest ravines, present the
greatest attractions to the geologist. Hence this
cataract, which has worn its way for a number of
miles, and to a very great depth, through the stony
crust of the earth, is no less interesting for the geo-
logical facts it di:5closes, than for the magnificence
of its natural scenery. The chain of highlands,
called the Ridire^ originates in Upper-Canada, and
running parallel with the south shore of Lake Onta-
rio, forms a natural terrace, which pervades the wes-
tern counties of iNew-York, from north to south, af-
fording, by its unbroken chain, and the horizontal
position of its strata, the advantages of a natural
road, and terminates in an unexplored part of the
county of Oswego, or thereabout. It is in crossing
this ridge, that the Falls of the Niagara, of the Gene-
see, and of the Oswego rivers, all running into Lake
Ontario, are produced ; together with those of an
infinite number of smaller streams and brooks. —

40

Through this, the Niagara has cut Its way lor a dis-
tance of seven miles, and to a depth of more than
two hundred feet, disclosing the number, order of
stratification, and mineral character, of the dififerent
strata of secondary rocks, of which it is comj-osed.
These are, beginning at the lowest visible point, red
sand stone, fragile slate, and fetid limestone, the lat-
ter occupying the surface, and imbedding crystals
of calcareous spar,* and foliated gypsum. t How
far these formations, in the order in which they are
here seen, continue towards the south, and extend la-
terally towards the east and the wesi, the want of
more extensive observations, prevents us from deter-
minins:. A similar formation exists at Genesee Falls,
and the sand stone stratum, continues unbroken to
Oswego, where it is quarried for the purposes of
building4 It is probable, that the slate rock, vari-
ously modified, and combined, extends throughout
the Genesee country, as it is found on the banks of
the Seneca Lake, — the Cashong, Flint, and Allen's
Creeks, — in the towns of Le Roy, and Clarence in
digging wells, — on the banks of Lake Erie, at Ham-

* Kaik Fpalli. Wf-nier. Common spar. Kirvvan. Cal^ spar.
Jamison. Chaux carbonaiee pure spalhique. Brongnairt.

Cleaveland.

t Selcnite. Cleaveland. Fraueneis. Werner.

I The sand slone of Oswego, has heen employed with some
success, for (he hearths, and lining of glass and iron f^underies,
wbere the intense degree of heat emp'oyed, renders thedisovery
of the most refractory rocks, an object ot constant solicitude. In-
telligent nianutaclurers will see the important app'ication o' geo-
logical science, in tracing the formations of rocks, upon which
they are any wise dependant, into the vicinity of ihejr nianufacto-
ries.

41

burgh, — on Mud Creek, near Canandalgua — on the
outlet of Honey oye, and Caneseus Lakes, and on the
Coiiostaga fork of the Genesee.* At the three lat-
ter places, it is so highly charged with bitumen, as to
be capable of supporting combustion. The inflam-
mable gas of the burning springs of Ontario, and the
fountain of petroleum of Cattaraugus county, afTord
additional evideiice of the existence of carbon and
bitumen in the shistose rocks of the Genesee, and
render it probable, that mineral coal, the dis-
covery of which, has become so great a desidera-
tum, vvill reward the future researches of the geolo-
gist, and the miner in this region. The secondary
character of the Genesee slate, is particularly ap{)a-
rent upon the baiks of the Cashong creek, in (3nta-
rio county, where it imbeds various species o^ concho-
lites and erisnialolites, together with globular masses
of granular limestone. Along the southern borders
of Seneca lake, it contains numerous impressions
of univalve shells, and mollusca.

The surface rock of this region, (limestone) which
is fetid at Niagara, either docs not preserve a uni-
form character, or is succeeded by local formations
of calcareous carbonats, of various character and
extent. Thus, it is compact shelly (forming a shell
marble,) at Wolcott, in Seneca county, and at Bath,
in Steuben county ; while the greater part of Onta-
rio, Allegany, Chautauque, and Genesee, is charac-

* For several of these localities, I am indebted to the observa-
tions of iMr. C. K Gu' rnsey, of Lima, a gjentleman whose habits
of observation, during; occasional excursions through that county,
has led him to notice many of those mineral coincidences and appear-
ances, from which the geologist is enabled to draw the most impor-
tant conclusions.

6

42

lerizecl by an eartljy, dull grey, cotnpact limestone,
which gives out no odour in breaking, contains
shells, sparingly imbedded, and burns to a good
quicklime. It is in this formation, that the gypsum
beds of Caledonia, Vienna, and Waterloo, are situ-
ated ; and which, also, appears in the vicinity of
the sulphur springs, in Farmington,* and the beds
of lenticular oxyd of iron,t in Palmyra, Williamson,

* For an account of these springs, see a Minnoir, by J. H.
Rcdfiejd, in the 2d vol of the Literary and Philosophical Reper-
tory. Also, Dr. MitchiM's Descriptive Catalogue of Minerals,
vol. I. p. 3. Bruce's Mineralogical Journal.

t During the session of the legislature of New- York, in (he win-
ter of 1820, a l<.an of ^10,000, was made to A. Cole, and asso-
ciates, to enable them tocomcoence the nianuacture of bar iron,
from these beds of ore; and it is understood, tnat works are
row in operation, at which av<^ry malleable iron is manufactured.
According to an analysis of this tre, by Professor Eaton, of Bur-
lington College, (^ see Eaton's Geology, p. 266,) it yields thirty
per centum of metaliic iron, and the ore contains perrefird voluti-
Us, small and well characterized; I am indebted to Mr. Andrew
^I'Na!!, of Geneva, for the following interesting account, of the
locality of tliis mineral, accompanied hy specimens of the ore.
" MEMORANDUM.
" Lintlcular Argillaceous oxyd of Iron.

" TWO VARIETIES.

"Var. 1st. — A bright red: inclining to purple. — Is found in the
towns ofOnfarin, Williamson, Penfield, and Sodus, in Ontario
county. The small r.d of ir->n, accompanying it, was wrought
from this ore, at forges erected, and now in operation, in the town
of Ontario. The ore is found in great a. undance. (quantity sup-
posed to he inexhaustible) in a strip- of country, about a mile in
width, and midway between the Ridge (Niagara) Road, and the
south shore of Lake Ontario, which are about an average of four
miles apart, and nearly parallel with each other. The ore is
found, genejaliy, at the depih of three to five feet below the sur-
face, and appears to extend downwards a considerable depth— ^

43

and Wolcolt, in Ontario county. In the town of
Caledonia it serves as the basis, to several varie-
ties of madre}3ores, and corrallines, found in a state
of petrefaction, and in the oak openings of Niagara
county, it incloses nodules of hornstone.* This
hornstone, is also found among the debris, of the
Falls of Niagara, accompanied by radiated quartz,
rhomboidal crystals of carbonate of lime, foliated
and snowy gypsum, and slight traces of the sul-
phuret of zinct

These rocks, (sandstone, slate, and limestone)

perhaps 10 to 15 feet, growing belter as it descends. The upper
soil, is a reddish sandy loam — then a species of g;i'eenish clay,
resting upon the ore. Th*" .re is sometimes wrapt up in insolated
roundish masses — sometimes in extended beds, similar to gypsum
beds or quarries,

" VAR.2d. — A dark red. inclining to brown. — Is found in the towu
of Wol-ott, Seneca county, on the inlet of P'^rt Bay, at the same
distance from Lake Ontario, and lying in the same direction, as (he
above first mentioned kind. The soil, & •. are similar. The spe-
cimen herewith delivered, was taken from the surface of the ore
bed, which lies naked at the bottom of the stream. The water
has, probably, produ< ed the difference in coI«>ur, whi<'h exists
between this and the first kind. It is believed, that there is a
continuation of the stratum in Ontario, extending east under So-
dus Bay. A mile or two south of the ore, up stream, there is a
perpendicular fall of 40 feet, over a bluish slaty roi^k ; siiH fur-
ther south, ihe bed of the inlet, is a smooth rock, apparently lime-
stone, of secondary formation, until the creek crosses the summit
level, (a perfect bog) north of Cress lake, in Galen." — Extract
frum a Com, by A. M'Nab, Esq. IStli Oct. 1320.

* Considered as Flint, by Dr. Mit<-hiil, in his Descriptive Cata-
logue. See Brace's Mineralogical Journal. Also, Cleaveland's
Mineralogy.

t Blende. Black-jack. Pseudo-galena.

44

liowever their properties may be found modified, by
future discoveries, will probably be found, with a
proper allowance for local formations, and distur-
bances, to pervade all that section of country, which
lies between theNiagara and Seneca rivers, — between
Lakes Ontario and Seneca, — and between the Alle-
gany river and the south shore of Lake Erie, as gene-
ral boundaries. All this section of country, appears to
be underlayed by a stratum of red t^and stone, such
as appears at the Genesee Falls, but which is im-
bedded at various depths, as the country happens
to be elevated above, or depressed below the level
of the Niagara stratum, in which no inclination, is
visible.* No order of strnt'ticatioiv could have
been affected by nature, which would have afforded
greater facilities, to the wasting effects of falling wa-
ter, so visible at these Falls. The slate which sepa-
rates the calcareous from the sand sto* e rock, by a
stratum of nearly forty feet in thickness, is continual-
ly fretting away, and undermining the superincum-
bent stratum of limestone, which is thus precipitated

* I find these observations, on the floeta rocks < f the Genesee
country, corroborated by those of an accurate observer of geolo-
.eical appearances. Samnel M. Hopkins, Esq. of Genesee, who, in
Lis Address, bef ire the AgricuHural Society oF that county, (1819)
ar.d in allusion to the horizontal position of the rock strata, says:
" 'This is not the ordy circumstance, in the geology of this coun-
try, which, according to the imperfe* t notions of the writer, is
verv remarkable. Not only does the whole level country, seem to
havobeen once covered by ^akes, but the deep chasms, which are
foru'.ed by the Niagara, and other falls, disclose facts which
wovild seem to prove, that the whole sub-stratum, for several hun-
dro-d feet beneath those former lakes, has undergone successive
chy.nges, by the action of water. These appearances, would well
ref^)ay the labour of the geologist; vd\o would investigate them."" —
r lough Boy, vol. I. p. 372.

4^

in prodigious masses, into the abyss below. The
most considerable occurrence of" this kind, that has
recently taken place, is, that of the Table Rock,* on
the Canadian shore, which fell during the summer
of 1818, disclosing a number of those crys.taHized
substances, which have already been alluded to. — •
By these means, the falls, which are supposed by
the most intelligent visitors, to have been anciently
seated at Lew iston. have progressed seven miles up
the river, cutting a trench through the solid rock,
which is about half a mile in width, and two hundred
feet in depth, exclusive of what is hidden by the
water. The pov\er, capable of effecting such a won-
derful change still exists, and may be supposed to
operate with undiminished acti\ ity. The wasting
effiects of the water, and (he yielding nature of the
rocks, remain the same, and manifest the slow pro-
cess of a change, at the present period, as to posi-
tion, height, form, division of column and other cha-
racters, which form the outlii es of the great scene;
and this change is sprobably sufficiently rapid in its
operation, if minute observations were taken, to im-
print a different character upon the Falls, at the close
of every century Nothing in the examination of
the geological constitution, and mineral strata of our
continent, conveys a more striking illustration of its
remote antiquity, (still doubted by many) than a
consideration of the time, it must have required for
the waters of Niagara, to have worn their channel,
for such an immense distance, through the rock. It

* 7'he Table Rock, was a favourite j»oint of view for many
years, and the day preceding the nitrht on which it fell with tre-
mendous noise, a number of visitors, had stood with careless secu-
rity upon it.

40

is true, we are in possession of no certain data, for
f stiinaling the annual rate of their progress, or for
comparing the results with the Mosaic history of the
earth. All that can be presumed is, that this pro-
gress, is now as rapid, as it was in former ages The
discovery of these Falls does not appear to have
been made, until an hundred and eighty-six years af-
ter the first visit of Columbus to the American con-
tinr nt in 1492, or a hundred and eighty years after
the discovery of North America by Cabot, in 1197.
I assume the period of La Salle's visit, in 1678, as
the basis of these deductions, but my opportunities
of research, do not allow me to state with certainty
that he was the first visitor, who has furnished a
printed account of them. He was followed by La
liontan, in ltJ8;i, and by the Jesuit, Charlevoix, in
1721 ; but, they give no accounts which are sulfi-
cicntly precise, to enable us to determine what
changes have since taken place in the aspect of the
Falls. It was not, indeed, until after the dismem-
berment of the Iroquois confederacy, that the path to
the Falls, was opened to the English Colonies, the
date of whose unmolested intercourse with this region,
cannot, however, precede that of the ratification of
the definitive treaty of peace, with Great Britain, in
1784. It is, therefore, only thirty-six years, since it
lias been the free and fashionable resort of all sec-
tions of the Union. Maps and descriptions are now
extant, which will enable us to fix the rate of its
progress, on the expiration of the present century,
and we should not be disappointed in our anticipa-
tions, if its progress is found, greatly to exceed the
prevalent expectation. To aid in the determina-
tion, the Island of Iris, which extends from the brink

47

of the Fan, up the river, and which is now connected
with the shore, by a wooden bridge, appears to pre-
sent great facilities. A simple measurement of its
length, with a monument for recording it at its head,
would convert it into a graduated scale, and the
point of the indentation of the Horse Shoe Fall, could,
in like manner, be perpetuated on either shore, by a
series of corresponding celestial observations, for de-
termining the longitude of the extreme point of that
incurvation. Distant ages wouhj thus be furnished
with data, the precision of whicii, would probably
enable them to throw new and important ligijts on
the history of the earth, and the changes it has un-
dergone. Is this suggestion of too visionary a na-
ture, to merit the consideration of geological soci-
eties .''

On the third of May, ! returned to P/uffalo, and
found the lake rapidly discharging its ice, which had
been recently broken up by the wind. On the sixth,
1 embarked on board the Steam-Boat,* which left
Black Rock at nine in the morning, and readied De-
troit on the eighth at twelve at ni^ht. We were fa-
voured with clear weather, and a part of the time
with a fair wind. The Boat is large. uniS'.i.; in
its construction a great degree of strength, con-
venience, and elegance, and is propelled by a pow-
erful and well cast engine, on the Fultonian njan, and
one of the best pieces of workmanship of the origiri-

* Called the " Walk-in-the-Water," J. Rodgers. master. This
boat performed her first ;rip in 1818, eleven years aff*'r !'!<• first
introdu' tioii of Steam-Boats upon the Hiids iii, aod 139 }>'ar5 af-
ter the first vf ssel (larg;- r taan an Indian Canoe) was built upon
Lake Erie. See page 33.

48

al foundry.* The accommodations of the boat are
all that could be wished, and noihing occured to in-
terrupt the delight, which a passage at this season,
aflbrds. The distance is computed at three hundred
miles ; the time we employed in the voyage was six-
ty-two hours, which gives un average rate of travel-
ling of five miles per hour. The first two miles after
leaving Black Rock, a very heavy rapid is encoun-
tered, in ascending which, the assis'ance of oxen is
required. It terminates a short distance below the
mouth of Buffalo creek, and immediately opposite
the village of BuiTalo, where we find ourselves on
the level of the waters of Lake 't.ne five hundred and
sixty feet above the tide waters of the Hudson river t
In passing through Lake Erie, the Boat touches at
the town of Erie, in Pennsylvania, at the mouth of
Grande River, and at the towns of Cleaveland and
Portland, in Ohio, the latter situated on Sandusky
Bay. On coming out of this Bay, we passed a large
and well wooded island, which bears the name of
Cunningham, and immediately came in sight of the
rocky cluster of the Put-in-Bay or Bass Islands J

* M' Queen's, New- York.

t See Report of the New York Canal Commissioners, to the
Legislature, accompanied with a chart.

I *' The Bass islands f rm a group of seven, lying about three
miles from part of the Sanduskj peninsula, and, as I have already
observed, seven or eight miles northwest of Cuimiiigham's island.
Put-in-bay, is formed by a curve of the larges and most southern
of the Bass gr- ups, having two entrances, one from the east and
the other from the west. The bay is very finely land-locked. The
second large island of the group, stretching from east to west
across the widest part at half a mile dis'ant,and one of the smaller
islands lying opposite each channel. The three main islands do
not differ much in extent, though that in which is Pu!-in-bay is 'he
largest. All are uninhabited, and covered with a dense forest. I
had no means to determine their area with certainly, but judged

49

which afford one of the best harbours in the lake,
and have acquired some celebrity from the circum-
stance of Com. Perry's having been at anchor there
on the morning previous to the memorable victory

the three main islands to average about one and a half miles long,
and half a mile wide, and may cover from 2,500 to 3000 acres ta-
ken coUficlively, resting upon a solid mass of schistose rock in great
part limestone. From here litnestone, for the purpose of making
lime, is carried as far as Detroit and Cleaveland. The soil is ex-
cellent, and would admit a settlement of thirty or forty fami-
lies. But every object of utility to which the Bass islands could be
applied, yields to the importance of Put-inbay. This fine haven
admits entrance and anchorage for vessels of any supposable
draught, safe from all winds. It must become, from its position
and depth of water, an object of great national value. No harbour
in Lake Erie., or in its connecting waters, except in Erie strait, can
in any respect compare with it ; its occupation as a naval and com-
mercial station must one day take place." — Darby's Tour to D&'
troit, p. 185, l86.

In one of the smallest of these Islands, called Moss Island,
a large quantity of crystalized sulphatof Strontian, has recent-
ly been discovered.

Having received several specimens of this mineral, from Mr.
Wm. A. Bird, of Troy, one of which is the fragment of a crystal
weighing two pounds, I wrote to him for some account of its local-
ity and grognostic position, and shall here, although without hav-
ing soliciled his permission, make an extract from the reply, with
which he favoured me

"On our return down the lake last fall, (1820) we were be-
calmed near the Islands in Lake Erie — I took a boat and accompa-
nied by Maj Delafield, Mr. A. Stebenson, and Mr. De Russy (who
was to be our guide) went in search of the Strontian to the mhifi
shore, where Mr. De Russy says, it was found in the summer of
1819. After an unsuccessful search of an hour, we gave it up and
determined to return to our vessel — on our way we stopped at
Moss Island, when immediately on landing, we found the mineral
in question, — I wandered a little from the others, and found the
large bed of which I spoke to you. We there procured large
qnantfties, and sojne large crystals.

7

50

of the tenth of September, 1813. We passed
through this cluster, and another, called the Three
Sisters, which lie in the Steam-Boat track between
Put-in-Baj and the mouth of Detroit river, and en-
tered the latter at twiHght on the eighth. We had
a view of the Fort and town of Maiden or Amherst-
burof, which lie a few miles above the entrance into
the river, and immediately opposite the fertile islands
of Bois Blanc and Grosse Isle. These were the last
objects that could be distinguished; the night was
dark, and we reached Detroit at a late hour, and

*' This Strontian was found on the south side of Moss Island, in
a horizontal vein of three feet in thickness, and from 40 to 50 feet
in length. I had no means of judging its depth into the rock. The
base of the Island is wholly compact limestone in which shells
scarcrly, if ever appear. The commissioner (Gen. P. B. Porter,
acting under the treaty of Ghent, H. R. S.) has given his permis-
sion, and I shall name this Island on the maps, " Strontian Island,'*
by which name I presume it will hereafter be known."

The same substance had been found upon an ilher part of this isl-
and (as appears from Eaton's Geology, p. 234.) by the gentlemen
attached to the boundary cotnmission, during the preceding year,
but not in the surprising quantity above stated. Professor Doug-
lass, of West Point, and myself, have also noticed it upon Grosse
Isle, in Detroit river, in the month of May,l820,but found no crys-
tals of more than a few ounces in weight. We found it lining con-
cavities in a horizontal stratum of compact limestone destitute of
oro-anic remains. This locality is a stone quarry, which has been
opened on the lands of Miss A. M'Comb of Detroit, and from
which a great proportion of the building stone of that city is
brought.

From (hese facts it appears, that this mineral, hitherto so very
sparingly found either in Europe or America, exists abundantly in
the region around the head of Lake Erie, and should the progress
of the arts require it, it is probable that the compact limestone of
the Erie and Detroit Islands, may hereafter be found to yield a suf-
ficient and lasting supply •

51

without an opportunity of then witnessing the pictur-
esque view, which the approach to that town, and
the country adjacent, presents.

Detroit occupies an eligible situation on the west
banks of the strait that connects Lake Erie with Lake
St. Clair, at the distance of six miles below the latter,
and in north latitude 42* 30' according to the receiv-
ed observation. The town consists of about two hun-
dred and fifty houses, including public buildings,*
and has a population of fourteen hundred and fifteen
inhabitants, exclusive of the garrison.! It enjoys the

• The following; is a list of the public buildings of Detroit :
1. A Roman Catholic church, 116 feet in length, by 60 in breath
—is 110 feet high with two steeples, has a chapel underground 65
feet by 60, originally designed for anunnery. Building — of stone
and not entirely finished.

2. A Protestant Church, built of wood, painted and furnished
with a dome supported by wooden pillars

3. An Academy of brick — is 50 feet long, by 24 in breath.

4. A Penitentiary — is built of stone, two stories high, and 88 feet
by 44 on the ground.

5. The Council house — occupied by the Indian department, is
built of stone 27 feet by 50.

6. The banking house of the bank of Michigan, 36 feet square,
two stories high, built of brick.

7- A market house. 60 by 30.

8. Government store-house — of brick, 100 feet by 40.

9. Military Arsenal — is 50 by 38, two stories high, built of stone.
10 The Ordnance store-house, a spacious stone building

11. To these may be added Fort Shelby, which stands in the
town, and the adjoining barracks, capable of quartering several re-
giments.

t This is the result of the census of 1820, for the communica-
tion of which, together with the gn^ater part of the details I publish
respecting modern Detroit, I have to acknowledge my obligationg
to James D. Doty, E?q. attorney at law, of that place, and one of
the members of the late expedition lo the sources of the Mississippi.

advantages of a regular plan, spacious street?, and a
handsome elevation of abont forty feet above the riv-
er, of which it commands the finest views. Very few
of the French antiquated buildings remain. There
are several buildings of brick and stoae, but the
greatest number are painted wooden dwellings, in the
stvle of architecture, which is prevalent in the Aves-
tern parts of the state of New-York. An air of taste
and neatness is thus thrown over the town, which su-
peradded to its elevated situation, the appearances
of an active and growing commerce, the bustle of
mechanical business, its moral institutions,* and the
local beauty of the site, strikes us with a feeling of
surprise which is the more gratifying as it was not
anticipated.

The site of Detroit was occupied by an Indian vil-
lage, called Teuchsagro7idie^'fwhen first visited by the
French; and amoi]g the singularities of its history,
we find that it is one of the most ancient European
settlements in the interior of the new world, having
been a stopping place for the Couriers du Bois and

* Societies at Detroit.

1. The Lyceiun of the city of Detroit. Its object is the cultiva-
tion of general science and Hteraliire. Its meetings are popular.

2. A Society for the Promotion of Agriculture.

3. A Mochanics' Society.

4. A Bible Society.

'}. Chapter of Royal Arch Masons.

6. Masters' Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons.

f. A Moral and Humane Society.

8. A Sunday School Association.

There are two catholic, a protestant and a methodist clergyman.

12 attornies, and 8 physicians,

!■ Colden's IHstorv of the Five Nations.

53

Jesuit Missionaries.) as early as 1620. Quebec was
founded in 1608 ; Albany, 1614. The New-England
Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, in 1620. Regular set-
tlements do not appear, however, to have been made
at Detroit until the commencement of the seventeenth
century. Charlevoix, who landed here in June, 1721,
found it the site of a French Fort called Ponchar-
train, under the command of La Salle's Lieutenant, M.
Tonti. He speaks of the beauty and fertility of the
country, in terms of the highest admiration. " It is
pretended," he says, '•' that this is the finest portion of
all Canada, and really, if we may judge by appearan-
ces, nature seems to have refused it nothing that can
contribute to make a country delightful ; hills, mea-
dows, fields, lofty forests, rivulets, fountains, and riv-
ers, and all of them so excellent in their kind, and
so happily blended, as to equal the most romantic
wishes. The lands, however, are not all equally
proper for every sort of grain, but in general are of
a wonderful fertility, and I have known some pro-
duce good wheat for eighteen years in succession,
without any manure. The islands seem placed in
the river on purpose to enhance the beauty of the
prospect ; the river and lake abound in fish, the air
is pure, and the climate temperate and extremely
wholesome."* There were then three bands of In-
dians located upon the west banks of the strait, be-
tween lakes Erie and St. Clair. The first on ascend-
ing, consisted of the Dionondadies,t a band of Wy-

* Charlevoix's Journal of a Voyage to N. America, vol. II, p. 6.

t Called Tiononlatez by Charlevoix, and Amihouis by the
French generally, but I follow the orlhogi'aphy of Golden.

Si

andots,* having high pretensions to ancestry, and
who were considered the radical stock of the Wyan-
dot tribe.t Between these and Fort Ponchartrain,
there was a settlement of Pottawattomies, and be-
yond the fort along the banks of Lake St. Clair, the
Ottaways held possession. Charlevoix alludes to
the labours of former missionaries among them, who
appear to have been most successful with the Hurons,
but of the French settlement which is stated to be
of fifteen years standing, he adds, that ••' it has been
reduced almost to nothing," and points out to the
Dutchess de Lesdiguieres, to whom his letters are
addressed ; the advantages that New France would
derive from a permanent settlement at that place.

The history of Detroit, during this early period
is that of the territory of which it is now the capital.
It was noted throughout the earliest settlements of
the colonies, as the rendezvous of the Couriers du
Bois, and the mart where the remote tribes of the
North and West, called collectively the Far Indiansf
by early writers, exchanged their peltries for Euro-
pean manufactures ; and when the fall of Quebec
and Montreal in 1759, added the Canadas to the Bri-
tish crown, Detroit was a considerable French vil-
lage, defended by a stockaded fort, and surrounded

* Called Hurons by the French. Quatoghies, by the Iroquois
and English. This is one of the few Indian tribes in the U, S.
who are called by the name which they have bestowed upon them-
selves as a nation.

t The cou.icil fire of this tribe, which is always the rallying
point among our savages, is understood to be slill fixed at the
place indicated by Char!evoix,as the residence of the Dioiiondadiesj
viz. at Browntown, at the mouth of Detroit river.

i Colden's Five Nations.

55

with a farming population, fn the year 1 763,*(con-
taining then a British garrison of three hundred men,
under Major Gladwyn) it was besieged by a confed-
eracy! of Indian tribes under Pontiac, an OttawayJ
chief, who displayed such a boldness in his designs,
such skill in negociation, and such personal courage
in war, as to justify us in considering him one of the
greatest men which have ever appeared among the
Indian tribes of North America.^ He was the deci-
ded and constant enemy of the British government
and excelled all his cotemporaries in both mental
and bodily vigour. His conspiracy for making him-
self master of the town of Detroit, and destroying the
garrison, although frustrated, is a masterpiece among

* Carver places the date of Pontiac's siegre, in 1762, but I have
followed Henry, who was an officer of the army of Gen. Brad-
streeti which marched to the relief of the Fort in 1764 He says
the siege had then been continued nearly twelve months and must
consequently have began in 1763.

Henry's Travels and Adventures in Canada, and the Indian Ter-
ritories between the years 1760 and 1776.

t The tribes composing this confederacy were the Miamis, Ot-
(aways, Chippeways, Wyandots, Pottawatames, Mississagas,
Shawnese, Ottagamies and Winnebagoes.

J Pontiac is considered by Carver as a Miami j but those per-
sons best acquainted with the subject at Detroit, among whom is
the present chief magistrate of the Michigan Territory, consider
him to have been an Ottaway.

<^ There is but a single individual in the history of aboriginal
chiefs who will bear a comparison with Pontiac. This is Tecum-
seh, (a name still fresh in every body's recollection,) who, by
his extraordinary powers, both of mind and body, formed a confed-
eration of the same Indian tribes, under the British standard ,whom
Pontiac had formerly led ag^aiust it^

5G

Indian stratagems; and his victory over the British
troops, at the battle of Bloody Bridge, stands unpar-
alleled in the history of Indian wars, for the decision
and steady courage by which it was, in an open fight,
achieved.*

* I cannot resist the inclination I feel of giving in this place, an
extract from the interesting account which Carver has given of the
life and war of this extraordinavy chief

" The town of Detroit, when Pontiac formed his plan, was ^z.r-
risoned hy about three hundred men, commanded by Major Glad-
win, a gallant officer. As at that time every appearance of war
was at an end, and the indians seemed to be on a friendly footing,
Pontiac approaciied the Fort, without exciting any suspicions in
the breast of the governor or the inhabitants. He encamped at a
little distance from it, and sent to let tlie commandant know that
he was come to trade ; and being desirous of brightening the
chain of peace between the English and his nation, desired that he
and his chi^'fs might be admitted to hold council with him. The
governor still nnsu-picious, and not in the least doubting the since-
rity of the Indians, granted their general's request, and fixed on
the next morfiing for their reception.

" The evening of that day, an Indian woman who had been em-
ployed b}' Major Gladwyn, to make him a pair of Indian shoes, out
of curious elk-skin, brought them home. The Major was so pleas-
ed witli them, that, intending these as a present for a friend, he
ordered her to take the remainder back, and make it into others for
hinrself. lie then directed his servant to pay her for those she had
done, and dismissed her. The woman went to the door that led
to the street, but no further; she there loitered about as if she had
not finished the business on which £he came. A servant at lengtii
observed her, and asked her why she staid there ; she gave him,
hov.-ever, no answer.

" Some short time after, the governor himself saw her; and en-
quired of his servant what occasioned her stay. !Not being able
to get a satisfactory answer, he ordered the woman to be cal.
led in. Wlien she came into his presence he desired to know
what was the reason of her loitering about, and not hastening home
before the gates were shut, that she might complete in due time the

57

The siege of Detroit was continued by Pontiac,
for nearly twelve months together, during which time
the garrison, aUhough gallantly defended by the Bri-
tish commandant, had suffered severely, and the con-
federate Indians had been frequently on the point of

work he had g^iven her lo do. She told him, after mu'h hesitation
that as he had always behaved with great goodness towards her,
she was iinwilliiio; to lake away the reirainder of the skin because
he put so great a value upon it ; and yet had not been able to pre-
vail upon herself to tell him so. He then asked her, why she was
more reluctant to do so now, than she had been when she made
the former pair. With increased reluctance she answered, that
she never should be able to bring them back.

" His curiosity being now excited, he insisted on herdlsclosing to
h\m the se< ret that seemed to be struggling in her bosom for ut-
terance. At last, on receiving a promise that the intelligence she
was about to give him should not turn to her prejudice, and that
if it appeared to be beneficial she sliould be rewarded for it, she
informed him, that at the counril to be held with the Indians the
following day, Pontiac and his « hiefs intended to murder him ;
and, after having massacred the garrison a>d inhabitants, to plun-
der the town. That for this purpose all the chiefs who were to be
admitted into the council-room had cut their guns short, so that
they could conceal them under their blankets; with which, at a
signal given by their general, on delivering the belt, they
were all to rise up, and instantly to fire on him and his attendants.
Having efferted this, they were immediately to rush into tlie town,
where they would find themselves supported by a sreal number of
their waniors, ttiat were to come into it during the sitting of the
council, under pretence of trading, but privately armed in the
same manner- Having gained from the woman every necessary
particular relative to the plot, and also tlie means by which she
acquired a knowledge of them, he dismissed her with injunctions
of .ief recy, and a promise of fulfilling on his part with punctuality
the engagenjents he had entered into.

" The intelligence the governor had just received, gave him great
uneasiness ; and he immediately consulted the offi< er who was
aext to him in command on the subject. But that gentleman con-

8

58

carrying the town hy assault. At length the ap-
proach of Gen. Bradstrect, wilh 3000 men,* struck
the Indians with consternation, and they met him
with offers of peace at Miami Bay. A few days af-
terwards, on the eighth of August, 1764, he arrived

sidering the information a? a story invented for some artful pur-
poses, advised him to pay no atlontion to it This conclusion how-
ever had happily no weight with him. He thouo;ht it prudeot to
conclude it to be true till lie «as convinced that it was not so ;
and therefore, without revealing his snspicii>ns to any other person,
he took every needful precaution that the time would ad. it of.
He walked round the fort during^ the whole night, and saw himself
that every centinel was on duty, and every weapon of defence in
proper order.

" As he traversed the ramparts which lay nearest to the Indian
camp, he heard them in high festivity, and, little imagining that
their plot was discovered, probably pleasing themselves with the
anticipation of their success. As soon as the morning dawned, he
ordered all the garrison underarms; and then imparling his ap-
prehensions to a few of the principal officers, gave them such di-'
rcctions as h(- thought necessary. At the same time he sent round
to all the traders, to inform them, that as it was expected a great-
number of Indian? would enter (he town that day, who might be in.
dinted to plunder, he desired they would have their arms ready,
and repel every attempt of that kind.

" About ten o'clock. Poritia;^ and his chiefs arrived ; and were con-
ducted to the council-chamber, where the governor and his princi-
pal officers, each with pistols in their belt, awaited his arrival. As
the Indians passed on, they could not help observing that a greater
number of troops than usual were drawn up on the para>le, or
marching about. No sooner were they entered, and seated on the
skins prepared for them, than Por.tiac ask«^d the governor on what
occasion his young men, meaning the soldiers, weie thus drawn up,
and parading the streets. He received for answer, that it was
only intended to keep them perfect in their exercise.

" The Indian chief-uarriur now began his speech, which contain-
ed the strongest professions of friendship and good will towards

* Henry's Travels, p. 182.

59

at Detroit, and a general peace ensued, Pontiac,
unable to control the events of a war in w'lich he saw
himself deserted by numbers of his followers, and un-
willing tc live on terms of friendship with a people
to whom he had imbibed an early hatred, the conse-
quence of his attachment to the French, fled to Illi-
nois, where he afterwards paid the price of his en-
mity with his life.*

the English ; and when became to ihe delivery of the beU nfwam-
pum. the parti ular niode of which, according; to the woman's
information, was to be the signal for his chiefs to fire, the governor
and all his attendants drew their swords half waj' out of their scab-
bords; and the soldiers at the same instant made a clatteri ig with
their arms before the doors, which had been purposely left open.
Pontiar, though one of the boldest of men, immediately turned
pale, and trembled ; and instead of giving the belt in the manner
proposed, delivered it according to tht^ usual way His chiefs,
who had impatiently expected the signal, looked at each other with
astonishment, but continued quiet, waiting the result.

"The governor in his turn made a speech ; but instead of thank-
ing the groat wairior fi r the professions of friendship he had just
uttered, he accused him of being a traitor. He told him that the
English, who knew every thirig, were convinred of his treachery
and villanous designs; and as a proof that they were well acquaint-
ed with his most secret thoughts and intentions he stepped towards
the Indian chief^hat sat nearest to him, and drawing asidp his
blanket discovered the shortened firelock. This entirely discon-
certed the Indians, and frustrated their design.

'' He then continued to tell them, that as he had given his word at
the time they desired an audiance, that their pfrsons should be
safe, he would hold his promise inviolable, though they s-o little de-
served it. However he advised them to make the best of their
way out of the fort; |est his young men. on being acquainted with
their treacherous purposes, should cut every one of them to pieces.

* Henry denies that the death of Pontiac is attributable to the
influence of the British governtt ent. but admits that the account
w/liich Carver gives of it, is, in other respects, correct.

60

After the close of Pontlac's war, Detroit enjoyed
a period of tranquillity, which continued until the
breakins: out of the American Revolution, at the
close of which, it fell by the definitive treaty of peace
of 1784, under the jurisdiction of the United States.

" Pontine Piideavonred to contradict the accusation, and to make
excuses for his suspicious conduct; but the governor, satisfied of
the falsity of his protestations, would not listen to him. The fndians
immediately left the fort, but instead of being sensible of the gov-
ernor's generous behaviour, they threw off the mask, and the next
day made a regular attack upon it.

»' Major Gladwin has not escaped censure for this mistaken leni-
ty ; for probably had he kept a few of the principal chiefs prison-
ers, whilst he had them in his power, he might have been able to
have brought the whole confederacy to terms, and have prevented
a war. But he atoned for this oversight, by the gallant defence
he made for more than a year, amidst a variety of discourage-
ments.

*' During that period some very smart skirmishes happened be-
tween the besiegers and the garrison, of which the following was
the principal and must bloody : Captain Delzt^l, a brave officer,
prevailed on the governor to give him the connnarid of about two
hundred men, and to permit him to afack the e- emy's camp.
This being complied with, he sallied from the town before day-
break ; but Pontiac. receiving from some of his swift-footed vvar-
riors. who were constantly employed in watching the motions of
the garrison, timely intelligence of their design. Ije collected to-
gether the choicest of his troops, and met the d<4a«'hment at ^ome
distance from his camp, near a place since called Bloody-Bridge.

" As the Indians were vastly superior in numbers to captain Del-
zel's party, he was soon over-powered and driven back. Being
now u'-arly surrounded, he made a vigorous effort to regain the
bridge he had just crossed, by which alone he could find a retreat j
but in doing this he lost his life, and many of his m^'n fell with him,
Hovever, Major Rogers, the second in cor:imand. assisted by
Lieutenant Brehara found means to draw off the shattert^d remains
of their little army, and conducted them into the fort.

"Thus considerably reduced, it was with difficulty the Major
€^uld defend the town j notwithstanding whitb, he held out against

61

The continued hostility of the Indian tribes, however,
prolonged the period of its surreiider, for several
years; and, aceordirsg to llerriot,* the transfer of
authority did not take place until I79tj. "^l he inter-
mediate time was occupied by the Indian wars, suc-

the Indians till hp was relievpcl, as after this (lu-y made but few
attacks on the place, and only coiilinued to blodiuJf- it

"The Gladwin Schooner (that in which I afterwards i.cik my
passaoje from iMichilimarkinac to Detroit aid whirh [ ^iiicc U>arri
was lof^t with all her rrew on Lake l•>i^^ thrmi'jh the oh^tinacv of
the commander, who could not be prevailed upon to t'd<e i:i suffi-
cient ballast) arrived about this time near the ti.wfi wiih a rein-
forcement and necessary supplies. But before thi.~ vi s^hI rculj
reach the place of its destination, it was most vif^oroiisiy attai k<"d
by a detachment from Pontiac's army. The I.idiani- snrrou id'd
it in their canoes, and made jrreat havock among; the crew.

"At length tlie captain (d the schooner, with a consitierabie Dum-
ber of b\s men heinyi: kil ed. and the savao;es befjijininj; to cli b
up the sides from every quarter, the Lieutenant (Mr Jacobs, who
afterwards commanded, and was lost in it) being d'^termined tliat
the stores should not fall into the enemy's hands, and seei.is; no
other alternative, ordered the g-unner to set fie to the pMwder-
room, and blow the ship up Tfiis order was on the oint <f be-
in"^ executed, when a chief ..f the Hurons. who nndfrfOMd the
English language, gave out to hi> frietids the intention of the com-
mander. On receiving thi> intelljircnce. the Lsdiims hurried down
the sides of the ship with the greatest p ecipitution and gol as far
from it as possible ; whilst the conm>;uider iumiediately took aii-
vantage of their consternation, and anived *vitliout any further
obslr ctioii at the town.

"This seasonable supply gave thi^ garrison fresh spirits ; and
Pontiac being now convinced that if would riot be in his piu'erlo
reduce the place, pr-p sed an accoomo^ation ; the g v»rnor
wishing as much to get rid of such troul)le.«ome enemies, who ob-
structed the intercourse of the traders with the neighboring c.ations,
listened to his pro osals. and having procured advartageo s termrf,
'agreed to a peace. The Indians soon after separated, and reiurn-

* See Heniot's Travels through the Cauudas, in I8i3.

G2

cessively conducted by generals Harrner, St. Clair,
and Wayne, in which the bad success of the two
former, was amply compensated by the decisive cam-
paign of the latter, who possessed the faculty of trans-
fusing into the operations of his army, that wonderful
energy, for which he was characterized. By ihe
treaty of Greenville, of 179.>, the post of Detroit was
surrendered to the United States ; and, from this
period, there has been an American garrison kept
here, with the exception of about eleven months,
which elapsed between the surrender of general
Hull, in 1812, and the re-occupation of the country,
bj general Harrison, in 1813.

The town was first incorporated by the Legislative
Council and House of Representatives of the North-
west Territory, on the loth of January, 1802.

In ] 805, when it consisted, according to Herriot,
of upwards of two hundred houses, it was entirely
destroyed by fire, not a house being left on the plat

eJ to their different provinces ; nor have they since thought pro-
per to disturb, at least in any great degree, the tranquillity of these
parts.

" Pontiac henceforward seemed to have laid aside the animosity
he had hitherto borne towards the English, and apparently became
their zealous tViend. To reward this new attachment, and to in-
sure a continuance of it, government allowed hin» a handsome pen-
sion- Cut his restless and intriguing spirit would not suffer him
to he grateful for this allowance, and his conduct at length grew
suspicious; so that going, in the year 1767. to hold a council in
t!ie country of the Illinois, a faithful Indian, who was either com-
missioned by one of the English governors, or instigated by the
love he bore the English nation, attended him as a spy ; and be •
ing convinced frouj the speech Pontiac made in the council, that
he still retained his former prejudices against those for whom he
now professed a friendshi]!, he plunged his knife into his heart,
as soon as he had done sneaking, and laid him dead on the spot.''

63

of the old town. This presented the opportunity of
■\videniiig the streets, and hijing out the town upon
an improved plan, by which it has been much beau-
tified, and eventually advantaged. The old town
consisted wholly of wooden buildings, very compact,
with the streets only thirty feet wide, resembling, in
this respect, the antique French villages in Illinois,
Missouri, and Louisiana.

In I8i0, the act incorporating the town was re-
pealed.

On the 16th of August, 181 2, articles of capitulation
were signed, by which the fort and town was sur-
rendered to a British army under general Brock,
who afterwards fell in the battle of Queenston.

On the ■ th of October, 1813,* the town was re-
occupied by a division of the American army under
generals Mc Arthur and Cass, and the latter subse-
quently appointed Governor of the Michigan Terri-
tory.

On the 24tli of October, 1815, the town was again
incorporated by the governor and judges of the ter-
ritory, under the name of " the City of Detroit."

By the act of Congress, passed January 1 1th, 1805,
it is declared to be the seat of the Territorial Go-
vernment, until Congress shall otherwise direct.

The ordinance of Congress of 1787, prohibits
slavery in the territory. This ordinance had res-;ect
to all that extensive tract of then unincorporated
country, lying northwest of the Ohio river, aiid of
which the present slates of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois
form a part.

These are some of the prominent civil and military
events of which Detroit has been the theatre, and

* See Fay's Battles of the late War, between 1812-15.

C4

which, hv eliciting, from time to time, the attention
of" the pubhc, have conferred upon it a celebrity,
which the most populous cities, barren of historic
incident, never attain. This notoriety it has partak-
en of. in connexion with the surrounding country,
w!]ich continued to be the rallying point of contend-
ing armies, and the scene of Indian warfare and In-
dian barbarity, during two of the most important
campaigns of the late war. It has thus acquired an
interest from the sword, which neither the pen of the
poet, or the pencil of the painter, have been employ-
ed to excite.

It is gratifying, however, to behold, that Detroit
does not acquire its principal charm from extraneous
circumstance,', and that the local heauty of the site,
the fertile district of cultivated land by which it is
surrouoded, and the advantages it enjoys for the pur-
poses of commerce, are calculated to arrest our ad-
miration, and to originate a high expectation of its
future destination and importance. A cursory exa-
mination of the map of the United States, will indi-
cate its importance as a place of business, and a mi-
litary depot. Situated on the great chain of lakes,
connected, as they are, at almost innumerable points,
with the waters of the Mississippi, the Ohio, the St.
Lawrence, the Hudson, and the Red River of the
IVorth, it communicates with the ocean, at four of
the most important points in the whole continent.
And when these natural channels of communication
shall be improved, so as to render them alik* passable
at all seasons of the year, the increasing products of
its commerce and agriculture, will be presented with
a choice of markets, at New-Orleans, New York, or
Montreal, an advantage derived from its singular po-

65

sition on the summit level in which the most consi-
derable rivers, lakes, and streams in America, ori-
ginate. It is thus destined to be to the regions of
the northwest, what St, Louis is rapidly becoming in
the southwest, the seat of its commerce, the reposi-
tory of its wealth, and the grand focus of its moral,
political and physical energies.

CHAPTER II.

JO UEJVE Y,

FROM DETROIT TO THE ISLAJ\''D OT
MICHILIMA CKIJ^Ji C.

1 HE time which elapsed between my arrival at De-
troit on the 8th of May, and the date of our departure
on the •24th, was occupied in completing the prepa-
rations !or the transportation, subsistence, and safe
conduct of an expedition of forty men, through a
country where the woods are not always to be relied
upon for game, and among Indian tribes, where a
welcome reception can only be certainly ensured by
a respectable display of physical power. There is,
perhaps, no instance in the history of voyages or
travels, where the preparations have been wholly
completed within the time originally contemplated.
There is always some labour, the difficulty of accom-
plishing which, has not been duly estimated, or some
untoward circumstance, wholly unforeseen, springs
up to increase the number of obbtacles to be sur-
niounted, and to retard the period of departure.
Hence several weeks elapsed, after the navigation
of the lakes had opened, and after the time original-
ly fixed for our departure, before we were, in reality,

67

in a state of readiness. Our canoes, our arras, our
camp and other equipage, our provisions, and the
escort of soldiers destined to accompany us, all con-
tributed to furnish causes of delay ; and when no
other obstacle remained, the winds blew so directly
ahead, that no progress could be made against them.
This delay, which was scarcely a cause of regret to
any person, and from which the expedition eventu-
ally experienced not the slightest inconvenience, af-
forded us an opportunity of acquiring the most satis-
factory knowledge of the town, the adjacent country,
the climate, and the novelty of the water craft, in
which we were to perform this journey ; and, per-
haps, this lapse cannot be more appropriately filled,
than by some brief notices of such of the enumerat-
ed topics, as have not already been dwelt upon in
the preliminary remarks. Among these, the Indian
canoe, excited our earliest curiosity ; and after exa-
mining it with scrupulous attention, and making a
trial of its velocity upon the river, we were ready
to say, with an eloquent writer, " that its slender
and elegant form, its rapid movement, its capacity to
bear burdens, and to resist the rage of billows and
torrents, excited no small degree of admiration, for
the skill by which it was constructed."* We were
struck with the difference, both as to the form and
materials of construction, between the canoe, by
which the savages formerly navigated the Hudson,
Connecticut, and Delaware, and that which is, at
present, employed by the northern tribes. The
former, as still remaining among us, is merely a Iog»

* Gouverneur Morris' Annual Discourse, before the New York
Historical Society, in 18 [2. See their '* Collectionsj" 5d vol. p.
116.

68

which has been scooped out, and is, in every respect^
analogous, according to Mr. Pennant,* to the monoxyla
of the ancient Germans and Gauls, and to the pine
canoe of the savages of Nootka Sound, except that
the latter is supposed to exceed the ancient Europe-
an canoe, in the elegance of its form. " The old
Europeans, says Mr. Pennant, were content if they
could but float." The northwest canoe, is, on the con-
trary, constructed wholly of bark, cedar splints, the
roots of the spruce, and the pitch of the yellow pine,
productions which are common, from the frozen
ocean, situated within the arctic circle,t to the pa-
rallel of the forty-second degree of north latitude ;
and these articles are fabricated in a manner unit-
ing such an astonishing degree of lightness,
strength, and elegance, and with such a perfect adap-
tation to the country, and the difficulties of northern
voyages, as to create a sentiment of mixed surprise
and admiration. Those of the largest size, such as
are commonly employed in the fur trade of the north,
are thirty-five feet in length, and six feet in width,
at the widest part, tapering gradually towards the
bow and stern, which are bi ought to a wedge-like
point, and turned over, from the extremities, towards
the centre, so as to resemble, in some degree, the
head of a viohn. See plate 2. fig. 1. They are con-
structed of the bark of the white birch tree, {betula
papyracca) which is peeled from the tree in large
sheets, and bent over a slender frame of cedar ribs,
confined by gunwales, which are kept apart by slen-
der bars of the same wood. Around these the bark

* See Pennant's Introduction to the Arctic Zoology, p. 235.
t See Hearne's Journey from Hudson's Bay to the Northern
Ocean.

IK"© I AlET MEiS^Sr U FiViC T W RIB S3

69

is sewed, by the slender and flexible roots of the
young spruce tree, called wattap^ and also where the
pieces of bark join, so that the gunwales resemble
the rim of an Indian basket. The joinings are after-
wards luted, and rendered water tight, by a coat of
pine pitch, which, after it has been thickened by boil-
ing, is used under the name of gum. In the third
cross bar from the bow, an aperture is cut for a mast,
so that a sail can be employed, when the wind proves
favourable. Seats for those who paddle, are made
by suspending a strip of board, with cords, from the
gunwales, in such a manner, that they do not press
against the sides of the canoe. The Pur Companies
have lately introduced the use of oars, in propel-
ling the canoe ; but the natives employ the cedar
paddle, with a light and slender blade. See fig. 14.
plate 2. In either case, they are steered with a larg-
er paddle, having a long handle, and a broad blade.
See £E.g. 2. plate 2. A canoe of this size, when em-
ployed in the fur trade, is calculated to carry sixty
packages of skins, weighing ninety pounds each, and
provisions to the amount of one thousand pounds.
This is exclusive of the weight of eight men, each of
whom are allowed to put on board, a bag or knap-
sack, of the weight of forty pounds. In addition to
this, every canoe, has a quantity of bark, wattap, gum,
a pan for heating the gum, an axe, and some smaller
articles necessary for repairs. The aggregate weight
of all this, may be estimated at about four tons. Such
a canoe, thus loaded, is paddled by eight men, at
the rate of four miles per hour, in a perfect calm — is
carried across portages by four men — is easily re-
paired at any time and at any place, and is altogether
one of the most eligible modes of conveyance, that

79

©an be employed upon the lakes, while in the inte-
rior of the northwest — for river navigation, where
there are many rapids and portages, nothing that has
been contrived to float upon water, offers an ade-
quate substitute. Every night the canoe is unloaded,
and, with the baggage, carried ashoie; and if, dur-
ing the day, a storm should arise, such is the activi-
ty of the Canadian voyageurs, that ten minutes time
is sufficient to effect a landing, and secure both ves-
sel and cargo. Recommended by these advantages,
we felt an avidity to test them by experience; and,
after a long voyage, in which we have had occasion
lo complain of the confined posture of sitting, and of
the frequency of injuring the canoes, by striking
against hidden rocks and logs of wood, we have, ne-
vertheless, returned, with an unaltered opinion of
their superior utility and adaptation for northern
voyages. Such is the vessel in which Europeans,
adopting the customs of the savages, first entered
the great chain of A.merican lakes, and in which they
have successively discovered, the Mississippi, — the
Columbia, and the Arctic Sea ; and the coincidence
is deserving of remark, that it has been employ-
ed by every traveller of the region, from the time of
Father Marquette, the Jesuit, to the discoveries of
Sir Alexander McKenzie.*

* The order of travelling, in this region, is as follows :

1. Father Marquette.

2. La Salle.

3. Hennepin.

4. La Hontan.
r>. Charlevoix.
6. Henry.

7- Carver.
8. McKenzie.

71

With respect to the climate of Detroit, the result
of our observations will allow us to speak in a very
favourable manner. Situated in the longitude of
ChilHcothe, in Ohio, and on the parallel of latitude
which embraces Prarie du Chein, on the Mississippi,
and Albany, on the Hudson, it falls under that tem-
perate medium of climate, which is found so favour-
able to the cereal gjramina, the grasses, and the fruit
trees of the United States. This we first witnessed
in the early development of spring, always one of
the best tests of the benignity of a climate. On
leaving Buffalo, on the 6th of May, the blossoms of
the peacli tree were not yet fully expanded, and the
petals of the apple were just beginning to swell
On reaching Detroit, two days afterwards, the leaves
of the peach blossom had fallen, and those of the
apple had passed the heighth of their bloom. Gar-
dening also, which had nut commenced at Buffalo,*
"we found finished at Detroit, and the half grown
leaves of the beach, the maple, the common hickory,
(jvglans vulgaris^, and the profusion of wild flowers
on the commons, ^ave to the forests and to the fields
the delightful appearance of spring. These facts
will go farther in determining upon the differences of
climate, than meteorological registers, which only
indicate the state of the atmosphere, without notic-
ing whether a corresponding effect is produced upon
vegetation. During ten days of the period of our
detention at Detroit, of which I kept a meteorologi-
cal register, the mean daily temperature of the
atmosphere, (for a period often days,) as indicated

* The thermomptpr observpd at Buffalo for seven days, namely,
from April 29th t(. Mny 6ih, indicated a mean temperature of 44"
at 8 o'clock in the morning) and Q59 at 2 in the afternoon.

72

by a Fahrenheit thermometer, was 61°.* The ave-
rage temperature of the whole month of May, at Al-
bany, according to the observations of Dr. Beck,t
was 58°.

By a journal of the weather kept at the garrison
of Detroit, (Fort Shelby), in obedience to orders
from the War Department, for a period of one hun-
dred and five days, namely, from the 15th November,
1818, to the 28th February, 1819, forty days are re-
marked to be " clear," forty " cloudy," thirteen " va-
riable," and twelve " cloudy, with rain or snow." The
average monthly temperature as noted by a Fah-
renheit thermometer during the same period, was,
for November 43°, December 25°, January 30°, and
February 33°. J According to a meteorological jour-
nal, kept at Albany, during the same time,§ the ave-

* Meteorological

Observatiom, at Detroit.

1 A. M. |P.M.| Daily
Date. j6.|8.ilU|12i6.|8.|Temp.

1 Pievail.
Wmds.

1 State of the
1 Atmosphere.

REMARKS

May 15150] | I6i|5l|47|

52

N. E.

1 Fair.

16|49hll 162|50|46|

51

N. E.

1 Fair.

17|5U| 1 |54|51| 1

55 1

N. E.

1 Fair.

18|52| 1 |b4| o|4r|

55

N. E.

1 Fair.

19| |60| |68|6'J| 1

62

N. E.

1 Fair.

20| |64|67|68|63|6]|

64

N N. E

1 Fair.

21| |67| |a2|66|62|

69

W.N.W

1 Fair.

Til 85° at 2 pm.

22| |'i4| |88|82|65|

74

s. w.

1 Fair.

89" at 2.

23| \72\ |8"|76|62l

73

W.N.W.

1 Cloudy.

Some rain.

24| |o3| |64| 1 1

53

N. W.

1 Cloudy.

Left Detroit at 4pm

10

612

61o

average

daily temperatur

e of May. i

t See Meteorological Register, for the month of May, 1820, in
the Plough Boy.

I See notes to '' The Emigrant," printed by Shelden and Reed,
at Detroit, 1819.

<^ Dr. T. R. Beck. Plough Boy, vol. I, pages 303;.343.

rage temperature of the atmosphere was in January
22°, and in February 29°. These facts, while they
indicate a remarkable difference of climate between
two places whose received latitudes only vary nine
degrees,* are calculated to justify a remark which
we have frequently heard from intelligent persons
at Detroit, that they are favoured with a summer
atmosphere of uncommon serenity, and that their
winters are not so severe as those experienced in
the same latitudes east of the Alleghany mountains.
The winds which are expected at this season to
prevail here, as in the valley of the Ohio,t from the
southwest, had blown from the northeast, shifting to
the north and northwest, (points unfavourable to
those who are ascending through the lakes,) during
the whole period of our stay at Detroit. This gave
us no uneasiness so long as the preparations for the
journey were going forward, but when, on the 23d
of May, these were completed, and the canoes rea-
dy for embarkation, all felt the utmost anxiety to
proceed, and the governor, although suffering from
an attack of the fever and ague, fixed the following
day for our departure.

I. Day.— (^% 24th, 1820.)— It was late in the day
before our baggage could be embarked. At four
o'clock in the afternoon, all was in readiness. A
large concourse of people had collected upon the
shore to offer us thei^ good wishes, and to witness
our departure, when, upon the word being given,
the voyageurs, with one impulse, struck their pad-

* Lat of Albany, 42° 39'. Detroit, 42° 30'.
t Drake's Natural and Statistical View of Cincinnati ■

10

74

dies in the wa(er, and instantly chanting one of thei^
animated songs, v/e passed rapidly along the town,
and in two honrs time, landed at Grosse Point, on
the west shore of Lake St. Clair, nine miles from
Detroit, where it had previously been determined
to encamp. To this place Governor Cass and suite,
accompanied hy Gen. M'Comb of the army, and a
party of gentlemen and ladies from Detroit, who
honoured the expedition with this mark of attention,
proceeded by land. Feeling an anxiety to witness
the picturesque scenery presented from the river, I
embarked on board the canoes at Detroit, but had
nearly resiented of my choice before reaching the
place of our encampment, for the wind, which gave us
no inconvenience oi leaving the shore, soon shifted di-
rectly ahead, and blew with such violence, that the
waves broke over the canoes, and gave us a severe
drenching. Immediately on leaving Detroit a canoe
race, and trial of skill, was witnessed between the
French voyageurs and the Indians, (who occupied a
separate canoe,) of our party, in which the expert-
ness and spirit of the latter, for sudden and short
exertions, and the superiority of the former for la-
bours long continued, were handsomely and clearly
manifested. The banks of the river present a com-
pact settlement along the American shore, in which
the succession of farm houses, orchards, and culti-
vated fields, is in no place interrupted by forests, or
even by detached copses of woods. Every thing
bears the appearance of having been long settled
and well improved. The soil is a deep, blark allu-
vion, of the richest quality, and disclosing on the
water's edge, pebbles of limestone, granite, and
hornblende rock, mixed with silicious sand, and, in

75

small quantity, with iron sand. Farms are laid out
with a width of only tour acres in tVoiit, aud extend-
ing eighty acres in depth, which gives a compactness
to the settlement that was formerly very advanta-
geous in defending the early settlers against the at-
tacks of the aborigines. The appearance of ex-
tensive orchards, the wind-mills which occupy every
prominent point along the river, the clearness of the
water, the woody islands in the river, already co-
vered with green foliage, and the distant view of
Detroit, every moment receding in the landscape,
all served to imprint a character of mildness and
beauty upon the scene, which was perhaps height-
ened by the reflection, that it presented the last
glimpse of a refined population which we were for
some time to witness. On reaching Grosse Point,
we found the party, that proceeded by land, already
there; several of the citizens of Detroit had previous-
ly returned, and the rest departed in the evening.

11. Day. — (^May 2^)th.) — A strong head wind pre-
vented us from quitting our encampment. The
mean daily temperature of the air, and the water of
Lake St. Clair, at six inches below the surface, have
been equal at 51° of Fahrenheit, which is 5° low-
er than the mean annual temperature of the Ohio
at eight inches below the surface.* Large masses
of granite, hornblende, limestone, hornstone jasper,
mica slate, and quartz, are lying upon the margin of the
lake. The banks are alluvial, elevated about twenty
feet above the water, and with an undulatory surface.
Lake St. Clair is by far the smallest of the chain of

* Drake's Statistical View. p. 14.

76

lakes, which, by their IntercommunicationvC? connect
Lake Superior with the river St. Lawrenee Its great-
est length is computed at 3f) miles, by a breadth of 25
miles, with an inconsiderable depth. It receives a
number of tributary streams, the largest of which are
the river Huron, from the American, and the rivers
Chenal Ecarte, and Thames,* from the Canadian
shore. The latter runs parallel with the north shore
of Lake Erie, for a considerable distance, and is
noted as the scene of General Harrison's victory
over the British army, on the r)th of October, 1813.
Considered as a decisive field battle, — as securing
the safety of our extensive northwestern frontier, —
and as breaking up a powerful Indian confederacy, in
the death of their celebrated leader, Tecumseh,t

* Called liy the French, " La Riviere a laTrenche," and by the
aborigines, Escann-Seebe.

t This noted warrior, was first made known to the public as the
leader of the Indians at the battle of Tippacanoe, (7th Nov. 181 1.)
He burst suddenly into notice, but from that time, until his fall
upon the river Thames, the attention of the American people was
constantly rivetted upon him. He possessed all the energy, bra-
very, sagacity, and fortitude, for which the most distinguished abo-
riginal chiefs have been celebrated, and the terror of his name
alone kept the whole line of our northwestern frontier in a con-
stant state of alarm. He projected every enterprize which the
savages executed against the whites, and took a conspicuous part
in every massacre, in every murder, and in every siege He was
no 'ess an orator, than a soldiev, and by the pi^rsua'^ive povi^er
of hi.s eloquence formed one of the ruost powerful confederacies
which has been attempted by the I >diaiis within the iast century.
His watchful mind was ever on the aiert, his hatred never slumber-
ed, and he held himself a stranger to personal fatigue. Such was
Tecuaiseli, who is reported o have fallen towards the close of
the battle upon the Thames, in a personal combat with Col.
K. M. Johnson, of Kentucky. He was a Shawanee.

77

this victory may be looked upon as one of the most
important events of the late war.

It is gratifying to the expedition, to reflect, that
they are proceeding under the orders of a person,
whose participation in that engagement, and in the
general dangers and fatigues of the operations of that
arduous campaign, affords a pledge of that decision
of character, foresight, and personal courage, so ne-
cessary in the safe conduct of the voyage before us.

Ill Day— (Maif 26/A.)— The wind, which contin-
ued unfavourable in the morning, abated about eleven
o'clock, when we commenced loading the canoes.
At twelve the Governor embarked, and we proceed-
ed along the southern shore of the lake, to the en-
trance of St. Clair river, and up that, a distance of
six miles where we encamped, having proceeded
twenty-five miles. The expedition consisted, on
leaving Grosse Point, of the following persons:

His Ex: Lewis Cass, Governor of the Michigan
Territory.

Alexander Wolcott, M. D. Indian Agent at Chi-
cago^ Physician to the Expedition.

Gapt. David B. Douglass, Civil and Military En^
gineer.

Lieut. jEneas Mackay, 3d Regiment U, S. jSriillery,
commanding the soldiers.

James D. Doty, Esq. Secretary to the Expedition.

Maj. Robert A. Forsyth, Private Secretary to the
Governor.

Mr. Charles C. Trowbridge, Jlssist^ Topographer.

Mr. Alexander R. Chace.

78

Also, — ten Canaclian voyageurs, — seven U. S. soi-
diers, — ten Indians of the Ottaway and Shavvanee
tribes, an interpreterand aguide, making thirty-seven
persons exclusive ofmyself,and all embarked in three
canoes. Provisions were only taken to serve the party
to the island of Michilimackinac, to which place, the
stores, arms, Indian goods, and other principal outfits
had been sent by vessels in order to facilitate our
passage througli lake Huron. The Indians occupied
one canoe, under the direction of an Ottaway chief
The baggage and men were divided equally. The
canoes were moved wholly with paddles, but a sail
provided to each, as well as a small standard, bear-
insT the arms of the United States. Each canoe had
also a tent or marque, and an oil cloth, to secure
baL'gage from the effects of rain, together with the
necessary gum, bark, and apparatus for mending
canoes. Thus equipped, we took our final depart-
ure from Grosse Point about noon, with a double
feeling of pleasure, from the reflection of the termi-
nation of a delay, which had so early retarded our pro-
gress, and the anticipation of the novel and interesting
scenes, we were to encounter. A glow of satisfac-
tion, beamed on every countenance, which was
heightened by the serenity of the atmosphere,
and by the temperate uarmth ot the day. About
two o'clock, we passed the mouth of Huron river,
which enters behind a point of land, projecting some
distance into the lake, and is a stream of sixty yards
wide, and navigable with boats, of a small class,
for sixty or seventy miles. Upon this stream, stand
the towns of Mount Clemens and Pontiac, both re-
cent, and in a state of rapid improvement; the lands
upon the banks of this river, are represented as fer-

79

tile and well adapted to the growth of wheat, rye,
and Indian corn. Its principal forest trees, are oak,
maple, and blackwalnut. From Point Huron, it is
necessary, in order to strike the mouth of > t. Clair
river, and to save a tedious voyage around the shore,
to traverse across a large bay, or arm of the lake,
but before we had reached half the distance, the
wind arose and continued to blow with such vio-
lence, that with every exertion, little head way
could be made, while the waves were frequently
breaking across our canoes, which rendered it ne-
cessary for one man to be continually employed in
bailing out the water. It was dark before we reach-
ed the entrance of the river, which consists of a
number of channels, separated by islands partly un-
der water, and covered with a heavy growth of rushes,
reeds, and tall coarse grass, affording no advantages
for encampment, so that we were compelled to as-
cend the river to the upper end of Lawson's island,
a distance of two leagues where we arrived two
hours before midnight, wet and cold, and passed an
uncomfortable night.

IV. Day. — {May '26ih.) — Embarked at seven o'clock
in the morning, and passed up the river thirty miles,
which brought us to Fort Gratiot, at the foot of Lake
Huron. '1 he principf^I tributary streams of St, Clair
river ar^ Belle river, and Black river, both entering
on the United States shore, the former at the dis-
tance of fourteen, and the latter at the distance of
two miles below Fort Gratiot. The banks of the
river St. Clair are handsomely elevated, and well
wooded with maple, beach, oak, and elm. Settle-
ments continue for a considerable part of the way

80

on the American shore, and contribute very much to
the effect of a district of river scenery, which is
generally admired The lands are rich, and hand-
somely exposed to the sun. The river is broad, and
deep, with a gravelly shore and transparent water,
and its surface is chequered with a number of the
most beautiful islands. Indeed, the succession of
interesting views, has afforded us a continued theme
of admiration, and we can fully unite in the remark
of the Baron La Hontan, who passed this strait in
1688, "that it is difficult to imagine a more delight-
ful prospect, than is presented by this strait, and the
little Lake St. Clair."* In ascending the river, we
have successively passed nine vessels at anchor, be-
ing detained by head winds. They were laden with
merchandise, military stores, and troops, for Michili-
mackinac. Green Bay, and Chicago. We also pas-
sed a number of Indian canoes, in which were gene-
rally one family, with their blankets, guns, fishing
apparatus, and dogs. On conversing with them,
through our interpreter, we found they belonged to
the Chippeway and Ottaway tribes, who are on a
footing of the most perfect friendship with eac-h oth-
er, and with the United States. There are some
of these tribes permanently settled on the Canadian
shore of the river, which is generally in the state of
nature, and presents a striking contrast with the im-
provements on the opposite shore. The white in-
habitants are chiefly French, who profess the Roman
catholic religion. The river maintains an average
width of about three quarters, of a mile, with a gen-
tle current until we approach within three miles
of Lake Huron, where there is a rapid in which the

* La Honlan's Voyages, vol. I. p. 83.

81

water runs with a velocity, of from six to seven
miles per hour. Fort Gratiot stands at the head of
this rapid, and commands the entrance into Lake
Huron. The site appears to have been judiciously
selected, and must always, in the event of a war,
command the commerce of the upper lakes, and
serve as a check to the incursions of the savages. So
important did the French formerly consider this, that
at a very early period the Coureurs du Bois, had
erected a Fort at this spot at their own expense. —
This was afterwards occupied by the French Go-
vernment, under the name of Fort St~ Joseph^ and fi-
nally abandoned and burnt by the commandant. La
Hontan, on the 27th August, 1688.* This measure
was adopted upon the occasion of a Peace, concluded
by the Marquis de Denonville, Governor of Canada,
in consequence of which. Fort Niagara had been
abandoned to the Iroquois. The present Fort is
understood to have been built about the close of the
late war, (1814.) It consists ofa stockade inclosing
a magazine, barracks, and other prerequisites, calcu-
lated to accommodate a garrison of one battalion.
We found it occupied by a company of sixty men,
under the command of Major Cummins, a prompt
ofFicer, who under the recent order of the War De-
partment, is cultivating an extensive plantation and
kitchen garden. The expedition was received with
a national salute, and welcomed to the hospitality
and conveniences of the garrison. We here return-
ed two soldiers who were sickly, and received an,
accession of five able bodied men to supply their
places. To cover any arrangements of this kind,

*La Hon tan's Voyages.

11

82

which the exigencies of our situation mis:ht render
necessary, an order had been issued by the war de-
partment, and transmitted by General Macomb
throughout the northwestern division of the anny
to afford the expedition every necessary assistance
either in men, boats, or other facihties.

In passing up the river, we have constantly observ-
ed ducks, plovers, and snipe ; and while w^alking
along the shore had an opportunity to witness the
manner in which certain snakes prey upon inferior
reptiles. In the present instance a common green
snake (^coluber mstivtis) had seized upon a frog and
succeeded in swallowing it alive, saving a small part
of the hinder legs, which were visible when we dis-
covered it. A blow at the snake was sufficient to
relieve the frog, which fled towards the water w ith-
out having received much apparent injury The
mean temperature of the air. since leaving Detroit
has been 51°, that of the water, 52°.* The wind
has varied little from northwest, blowing at times
with some violence, and so as to retard our progress.

No change in the geological character of the
country, has been noticed, the shores of the river
continue alluvial, and the detached stones strewed
along the beach, are of the same kinds formerly men-

* Meteorological Observations on the L

(ike and Rivpr S

' (V nr 1

Date

AIR.

VVA 1 EH.

Mean dai-'Mean dai-
ly temp 1 ly temp.

Prevail-
„.mK

VV,.a-

A .^f

\\ M

A. M

P IVl.

18;;0
MuvSl.

ri

8
54

< i-'

-53

55

1

2

59

51-

6

46

15

8
57

6 K
49 "~

54
55

2

(i

'^

— T,r—

~

-

."'« !*< ' "■

V .r

2.:.

47

50
55

52

\ ..

Fair.
Fnir.
Fair.

2«

-

5'.
54

51

N W

5(1

53

51

> \V.

158 206
52° water 51" air.

83

tionfd, among which, hornblende and granite pre-
dofninate : — no rock strata appear. There are some
traces of iron sand along the shore On ascending the
rapids between Black river and Fort Gratiot, where
the current washes hard against the south shore, we
perceive a tenaceous stratum of blue clay of fifteen
feet in depth, covered by a lajer of sandy alluvion
of thrice that depth. What strikes us as particular-
ly deserving of attention is, a number of trees imbed-
ded at the point of contact between the clay and the
oveHaying stratum of sand, and which the falling in
of the bank has caused to project horizontally
several feet over the water These trees are also
seen at various depths below ^he surface of the sand
bank, together with fragments of granite and lime-
stone ; but no such imbedded substances either ve-
getable or mineral, are found in the stratum of clay !
Is not, therefore, the sub-stratum of sand a posterior
formation.'* And do not the imbedded substances
furnish data for determining the relative geological
ages of the two alluvial deposites ? These conside-
rations lead us further to niquire into the impropriety
of confounding all earthy strata under the broad
and indistinguishable name of alluvion, and whether
they do not, like other mineral depositions, admit of
a classification according to composition, the imbed-
ded substances, and the order of superposition.*

* The views which I liave f rmeHy suggested with regard td
alluvial formations, and the lijrh in which they have been con-
sidered by Professor Eaton, of Bur'ington CollegCi may be ^een by
a reference to his valuable worl<, entitled An Index to the Geology
of the Northern States, second edition, p. 262.

V. Day.— (J^% 2StL)—We left Fort Gratiot, at
eight o'clock in the morning. For the first half mile,
a strong rapid is encountered, on reaching the head
of which, we find ourselves on the level of Lake Hu-
ron, at an elevation of twenty-nine feet above Lake
Erie, and five hundred and eighty-nine feet above
the ocean.* Here the lake spreads amply before
us, and w^e shortly find the prospect, on the right,
bounded by an expanse of water, terminated on the
line of the horizon, and on the lef by an alluvial
shore, covered chiefly with a growth of white pine,
poplar, and birch, and skirted on the water's edge,
by a broad beach of gravel and sand. In coasting
along this, there is little to interest. The view of the
lake, which, at first, pleases by its novelty, soon be-
comes tiresome by its uniformity, and the eye seeks
in vain to relieve itself, by some rock bluff, or com-
manding elevation, upon the shore. One or two spe-
cies of duck, the plover, and a small kind of gull,
with white feathers and sharp pointed wings, have

* These facts are deduced from the following estimates :
Fall of Detroit river, twenty miles, at six

inches per mile .... 10 feet.

Fall of St. Clair river, thirty miles, at

four inches per mile ... 10 ket.

Rapid of St. Clair river, extending three

miles 9 feet.

29 above L.Erie.
Elevation of Lake Erie, above the tide
waters of (he Hudson, accordino^ to
the survey of the New- York Canal
Comniissioiiers .... 560 feet.

589

appeared, to variegate the scene. In landing, at one
or two places along the shore, we found the pebbles
and loose stones to consist, principally, of horn-
blende, granite, sienite, and limestone. Among the
latter, are several large masses, containing numerous
species of petrified remains — {conchoUtes and erisma-
iolitet.) The soil, after leaving the head of St. Clair
river, appears to degenerate, grows sandy and ste-
rile, and in some places marshy, and a marked dif-
ference in the forest trees is observable. Maples,
and the beech, and elm, become rare, and, in their
stead, we perceive pines, poplars, the birch, and the
hemlock We have passed several considerable
indentations in the shore, and other places which
have names known to the voyageurs, or to the In-
dians, but as most of them are trifling or ludicrous,
and I cannot conceive the bare enumeration of the
names of unimportant points and places, either use-
ful or interesting, I have omitted to record them, a
practice, which i purpose to adhere to, during the
future progress of the expedition. The Canadian
voyageurs, have passed the greatest part of their lives
along these coasts, and in scenes of hardship and
danu;er. These people are continually pointing out
to us places where they have formerly encamped —
broke their canoes — encountered difficulties with the
natives, or met with some other occurrence, either
pleasant or disagreeable, which has served to imprint
the scene upon their memories. There is, perhaps,
not two miles along the whole southwestern shore
of Lake Huron, which is not the scene of some such
occurrence. It is by no means certain, however,
that such pointy are designated by names in univer-
sal use, even among themselves ; and in a country,

S6

wircre there are no permanent settlements, local ap-
pellations are necessarily subject to be changed, or
fall into disuse There are, however, certairj pro-
minent points and features, in the topography of eve-
ry savage country, which are universally known by
establislied names among themselves, and deserve to
be perpetuated in the permanent geography of the
country. Such are the names of all rivers, streams,
bays, promontories, and mountains, which are proper
subjects to enrich our maps, and to employ the pen
of the tourist.

We progressed thirty-jfive miles during this day,
in a general course northwest, and encamped upon
the open beach of the lake. The wind has been
lightly ahead. The greatest observed heat of the
atmosphere, has been .>5°; the water of Lake Huron
standing, at the same time, at 58".

VI. Day. — {May 20/^.) — In passing along the mar-
gin of the lake, for a distance of thirty miles, little
diversity in the natural appearances of the country,
has been presented. At the distance of about fif-
teen miles beyond our encampment of the twenty-
eighth, the shore of the lake assumes an elevation
of thirty or forty feet, terminating in a perpendicu-
lar bank at the water's edge, which continues six or
eight miles. While passing along this coast, at the
distance of one or two miles, it was difficult to de-
termine, even with the aid of an excellent magnify-
ing glass, whether this bank consised of a ledge
of rocks, or a stratum of compact clay. Its dark
colour led us to suppose it was bituminous slate,
fragments of which had been observed upon the
shore, at no great distance beyond the point of its

S7

termination ; but this doubt was satisfactorily solve3
upon our return, when that part of the shore was
found to consist of a stratum of dark tenacious blue
clay, the colour of which was rendered more intense,
by the dashing of the waves against the foot of the
bank, and which thus kept it continually wetted, for
eight or ten feet above the common level of the wa-
ter. A iew miles beyond the termination of this clay
bank, (about fifty-five miles above Fort Gratiot,) we
passed the W hite Rock, an enormous detached mass
of transition* limestone, standing in the lake, at the
distance of half a mile from the shore. This is an

* Notwithstanding; the objections which have been urged against
this class of rocks, by Greenough, Maccnllough, and other late ge-
ological writers, T find il necessary to employ the term " transi-
tion," as a generic for those rocks, which possess characti rs in-
termediate between the floptz and the primary strata. Of this in-
term«^diate character, the White Rock of Lake Huron, presents an
example, which is tne more worthy of remark, as the entire mass
appears to be unconnected with any continuous stratum, and with
respect to original position, is out of place. I shall not here
stop to ejiquire, by what means it has been transported into a re-
gion, to which it appears foreign. The limits of this note will
barely permit me to mention the fact of its apparent translation
from its original and parent bed A glympse of the recent frac-
ture is sufficient to satisfy us, that it is not a secondary rock, while
the crystalline and granular structure, and the absence of organic
reliqua, appear equally conclusive of its primary character. In the
hai«te of the moment, we had, therefore, referred it to the class
of primitive limestone ; but a recent examination of the specimens
we procured, shews, that the crystallization is not perfect, and
the fracture discloses numerous snjall cavities, which have not been
ob^^erved in the alpine limestone. It will not bear a comparison
with any specimens of well characterized granular limestone in
my possession ; but the most conclusive circumstance, is a petri-
fied madrepore, recently noticed in one of the spscimens. What,
therefore, is neither decidedly primordial, or floetzose, we must
Be permitted still to consider, " transition."

object looked upon as a kincl of mile-stone by the
vojageurs, and is known to all canoe and boat travel-
lers of the region. It has already found a [Aacc up-
on some maps. The White Rock is an object which
had attracted the early notice of the Indians, who
are the first to observe the non-conformities in the
appearances of a country ; and it continues to be
one of the places at which offerings are made.
How far these offerings are to be considered as par-
taking of the nature of religious worship, will admit
of great diversity of opinion. We have heard much
speculation concerning the religion of the Indians,
and the subject has recently called forth the talents
and research of a very interesting writer,* but the
want of opportunities of personal observation, has
led him into some conclusions, which we do not.think
warranted by the existing state of society among
the northern Indians. In the true acceptation of the
term, the Indians have no religion ; but they believe
in the existence of a great invisible spirit, who re-
sides in the region of the clouds, and by means of in-
ferior spirits, throughout every part of the earth. It
is not ascertained, however, that they acknowledge
the gift of life from this spirit, or pay him the homage
of religious adoration. Martito^-\ in the Indian lan-

* Dr. Jarvis. See the Annual Discourse before the New- York
Historical Society, 1819.

t This word is employed to signify the same thing, by all the
tribes extending from the Arkansaw to the sources of the Missis-
sippi; and, according to Mackenzie, throughout the arctic regions.
It may, with many others, (the collec tion of which would form
the subject of a very interesting work,) be quoted to strengthen
an opinion, for which there appears ample grounds, that the
erratic tribes, of the northwestern region, and of the valley

89

guage, signifies " spirit." They have good and bad
manitoes ; great and small manitoes ; a manito
for every cave, water-fall, or other commanding ob-
ject in nature, and generally make offerings ai such
places. These tributary acknowledgments, howev-
er, we have observed, are such things as, in their
nature, are perfectly useless to the savages ; — a
broken gun barrel, a pair of old mockasins or leggins,
a broken paddle, or other useless or trifling article.
Small bits of carrot tobacco are the only valu*
able offering we have observed, but they never leave
a silver arm band, a beaver skin, a knife, a hatchet,
or other substance of utility. Neither is there that
solemnity observed in making these deposites which
has been represented; — nor does there appear to be
any obligation upon individuals to make them, or to
renew them, at any regular periods. The thing ap-

of the Mississippi, are all descendants from one stock, which is
presumed to have pro2;resspd from the north towards the south,
scatterincr into different tribes, and fallino: from the purity of a lan-
guage, that may have originally been rich and copious. Among
those who are disposed te make gjreat allowances, for the corrup-
tions that have crept into the languages of the aborigines of Ame-
rica, we find the most celebrated traveller of the age. ' What
some learned writers have asserted, from abstract theories, respect-
ing the pretended poverty of the American languages, and the ex-
treme imperfection of their numerical system, is as doubtful as the
assertions which have been made respecting the weakness and
stupidity of ihe human race, throughout the new continent — the
stunted growth of animated nature, and the degeneration of those
animals, which have been transported from one hemisphere to the
other. Several idioms, which now form the language of barba-
rous nations only, seem to be wrecks of languages, onre rich, flex-
ible, and belonging to a more cultivated state." — Humboldt's Re*-
fearchesj vol. I. p. 20.

12

90

pears entirely optional, and is often accidental. Of-
ferings are made when they happen to pass by any
scene capable of exciting wonder; but they seldom,
if ever, undertake journies to perform them. Their
bad manitoes answer to our Devil, but I have not
learned, that their bad manitoes are considered to
be subservient to one great bad manito. Neither
do 1 know, that the connexion existing between the
good manitoes, from the most inferior up to the
great spirit, is precisely what I have stated it to be,
or that there is any fixed and uniform understan ung
among them respecting it ; but my impression is, that
an understanding of this kind is universal.

All are more or less superstitious, and believe in
miraculous transformations, ghosts, and witchcraft.
They have jugglers and prophets, who predict
events, who interpret dreams, and who perform in-
cantations and mummeries. Great solemnity is ob-
served on occasions of this kind, when men and wo-
men are ceremoniously arranged around the walls of
a cabin appropriated to these mysteries, and while
they alternately assist in the performance of a round
of unintelligible ceremonies, the spectator finds a
difficulty in restraining his laughter. A magic rod
suddenly darted at the person who is the subject of
operation, causes him to fall as if struck dead. A
whiff from a tobacco pipe communicates new spirit
to him, and he arises reinstated in his former health
of body or mind. The most remarkable of these cer-
emonies, is called the medicme dance, where all
sorts of bodily ailments, are affected to be cured ;
and persons in the last stages of existence are some-
times brought out to undergo these ceremonies, who

91

die ^vhile they arc performing. Yet their faith is not
destroyed ; it is considered the signal interposition
of some bad spirit who has prevented the operation
of tfje medicine, that is, the ceremony^ for physical aids
are not relied upon in these cases; and if one in ten
who have been subjects of operation, recover, the
success in that case is alone dwelt upon, and the nine
unsuccessful ones disregarded. .Such is the religion,
— the superstition, and the knowledge of medicine
of the lake savages, blended as they appear. It is
difficult to separate them, and to say how much
may be considered religious, or mer^* mummery.
Much allowance, however, is to be m/Ae on account
of our ignorance ot their language'^., — on account of
bad interpretation, and the unfavourable sentiments
we may entertain from early prejudices, or from
other causes, whi^^h are apt to influence our opin-
ions and vievvs.

As to the success which has attended the attempts
to introduce Christianity among them, it is difficult
to perceive, that any material change has been
worked among the tribes so remote. The French
Missionaries were the most successful, particularly
with the Hurons, and many of the Indians slill retain
some of the signs and symbols of the Catholic reli-
gion. Silver crosses delivered to them a century
ago by Jesuit priests are still preserved and worn,
and they profess a great veneration for them. This
religion, striking as it has always appeared to the il-
literate and vulgar, by its splendid ceremonies and
external signs, appears to have presented great at-
tractions lor the Indians. They do not appear, how-
ever, to retain any notions of the doctrines taught,

92

and so far as fhave been able to learn, do not wish to
be disturbed by the introduction of any religion, pre-
fering, in their emphatic language " to follow the re-*
ligion of their fathers." Thev may not. however, be the
proper judges in this case, and it requires the atten-
tion and perseverance of christians and religious so-
cieties to effect a moral retbrm among them. Of the
feasibility of well directed efforts, there can be no
doubt; but hitherto the little attention which has
been bestowed upon them, seems to have reached
them through missionaries badly selected for the
task. The savage mind, habituated to sloth, is not
easily roused into a state of moral activity, and is not
at once capable of embracing and understanding
the sublime truths and doctrines of the evangelical
Jaw. It is necessary that letters, arts, and religion
should go hand in hand. It is ppobable, also, that
a plainer and more familiar mode of explanation than
that commonly practised in refined society, would be
found productive of its advantages, at least, in the
commencement of moral and religious instruction.

On embarking this morning we had the wind light-
ly ahead, which continued during the forenoon, but
changed so that we were able lo make use of our sails
in the afternoon. About four o'clock the weather
became cloudy and hazy, and the wind increased
in violence, attended by thunder. A storm was has-
tily gathering, and the lake became so much agita-
ted that it was thought prudent to land and encamp.
We effected a landing, with some difficulty, on a very
shallow shore, and dangerous from the number of de^
tached stones projecting above the water, or mere-
ly hid beneath it; and pitched our tents on a narrow

93

week of* land nearly separated from the main shore,
and covered with a beautiful growth of forest trees.
Shortly after our arrival at this place a vessel hove
in sight, and afterwards came to anchor within half
a mile of the land, the wind blowing a gale ashore.
We were apprehensive the vessel would be driven
from her mooring, but the night passed without ac-
cident. In the course of the day we passed several
canoes of Indians, and uniformly found them in want
of provisions.

VII. Day — {J\Iay 30th.) — Detained ^jy unfavoura-
ble winds. The shore of the luke is strewed
with water worn masses of rock":, of the same kinds
already mentioned, and we still find granite and horn-
blende to predominate. No rock has, however, yet
appeared in situ. The lands adjoining our encamp-
ment, are generally low^ and swampy, and the forest
consists of hemlock, birch, ash, oak, and some maple.
Among the plants the convallaria augustifolia, and a
species of Indian Brassica., have been noticed. 7 he
margin of the lake is skirted with bull-rushes, quake
grass, (briza canadensis^') and other aquatic plants.
The greatest observed heat of the air has been 53",
wind N. E.

VIII. Day.— (Jfay 31^^.)— Still detained by head
winds. In loitering alongthe shore of the lake,examin-
ingtheloose stones, Idiscovered in a detached block of
mica slate, several large and well defined crystals of
staurotide,* of a dark reddish brown colour, moderate

* To prevent a ntisapprehension arising from the variety of
Barnes which have been applied by rainefalogists to the same sub-

91

hardness, and perfectly opaque. Near the same
spot a number of petrifactions (:c//eponVc^ and ???«<//«;-'
porites\) were observed in the detached fragments of
limestone, found along the coast; but what excited a
particular interest, was a large block of granitic
rock imbedding globular pebbles of hornblende.
This rock, as beinga quarternarj compound of feld-
spar,quartz-mica,and hornblende, would be consider-
ed a ^ra?2z7i/e according to the suggestions of Kirwan.
The masses of hornblende, which are in most in-
stances pure and unmixed, in others contain feld-
spar and quartz, thus indicating a transition of one
substance into the other which does not admit of a
ready explanation. Will the present state of mine-
ralogical science, justify us in considering this sub-
stance as a primitive breccia ? or is it a granitic
porphyry ?

stance, an introduction of sjnonomies has become necessary in
all elementary vvol^vi on mineralogy ; nor does it appear less re-
quisite in books of general information, which are often read by
those whose business or leisure does not permit a reference to ele-
mentary treatises. It must moreover, be considered a fault in eve-
ry hook, which compels its readers to hunt over scarce or vohuninous
works for insulated facts, which are the only parts of such works,
that happen at the time, to interest thenj. I shall, theiefore, perhaps
accumulate a body of notes, which will not recommend this narrative
to readers of a certain class, but I shall aim to introduce no more
than appears to me necessary to a correct understandino^ of the
subjects brout^ht into view. In the present instance I have follow-
ed Cleaveland in designating a certain crystalline combination of
alumiiie, silex, and oxide of iron, stanrotide- The same substance is
called Granatit by Werner, and Grenatite by Jameson and Bro-
chant. An analysis of this mineral, by Klaproth, erave alumina
52.25, silex 27, oxide of iron 18.50, oxide of manganese 0.25.=^9?.

95

IX. Day. — {June I*/.)— The wind abating, we em-
barked this morning at six o'clock, but on proceed-
ing about one league, it again arose to such a pitch,
that it became necessary to efTect a speedy landing.
Such are the delays to which our voyage is contin-
ually exposed. Shortly alter landino the Indians
were sent into the woods in quest of game, and a par-
ty of soldiers and engagees went to an adjacent riv^-
erfor the purpose of fishing, but after an absence of
four or five hours, both parties returned without
success. In the mean time, the agitation of the lake
had ceased, and the wind sprung up *n our favour;
we, therefore, embarked again at tl ree in the after-
noon, and proceeded under sail to Saganaw Bay, a
distance of twenty-five miles, where we encamped
after twihght, having successively passed Elm creek,
Black river, and Point aux Barques, — the latter form-
ing the southeastern cape of Snganaw Bay.

At the distance of a league before reaching Point
aux Barques, we perceive the first stratum of rock
in situ, which consists of a secondary sandstone ofa
greyish white colour and very friable texture, it
forms a horizontal ledge of from ten to twenty feet in
height, immediately upon the lake shore, but the
continuity of the stratum is interrupted by small bays
and inlets, worn into the rock by the violence of the
storms and tempests, which prevailing from the north,
have an uninterrupted sweep from the Straits of St.
Mary, across the widest part of the lake, until they
are opposed by the perishable sajidstone of Point aux
Barques. Here the waves beat with the utmost fury,
and by prostrating the opposing barrier into heaps of
sand, have manifestly extended the dominions of the

9Q

lake, while the winds have heaped the disinteg;rated
ruins into vast sand hills and ridges, that skirt the
borders of the lake, and exhibit all the fanciful forms
which a tempest is capable of communicating to the
drifting sands of the ocean. These ridges are now
covered with a growth of the pitch pine, the Ameri-
can aspen, and the pjrola rotundifolia; — productions,
which delight to grow upon the most sterile sand
banks. Insulated masses of the rock covered with
forest trees, form several islands ii; the lake alongthis
coast at the distances of ore, and two miles, and by
the perfect similarity o'the stone, — its horizontal po-
sition, and other geological correspondences re-
main as the monuments of their former connexion
with the main land. These operations give to this
part of the lake, and particularly to the outer
shores of Saganaw Bay, a broad beach of sand
intervening between the woods and the water,
which affords innumerable harbours for encamp-
ins", and one of the safest shores for boat and ca-
noe navigation. The frailty of these vessels is not
here threatened by those hidden blocks of granite
and other primary stones, which we have found so
very annoying along the coast between Fort Gratiot
and Point aux Barques, — for with the commencement
of the sand rock, and sand beaches, these substances
have entirely disappeared. If, as along other parts
of this lake, these detached masses of primary for-
mation, once lined the shores of Saganaw Bay and
the adjacent coast, the subsequent inroad of the lake
upon the main shore, has left them at the bottom of
the water at the distance of a mile or two off land.

As the sand stone of Point aux Barques, has no over-
laying stratum of rock, and the water prevents us
from ascertaining that upon which it rests, some
difficulty would arise in pointing out its geological
character, were it not indicated by the organic re-
mains (erismatolites) which we find in a state of
petrifaction, in the most compact parts of it.

Saganaw Bay is by far the largest of the numerous^
inlets which serve to indent the very irregular shores
of Lake Huron. It is computed to be sixty miles in
depth, and thirty in width, and has a number of
small islands, the most considerable of which is
Shawangunk Island, situated nearly in its centre.
The navigation is safe for vessels of any burden, and
its numerous coves and islands, present some of the
best harbours in the lake. At its southern extremity
it receives Saganaw river, a large and deep stream
with bold shores, and made up of a great number of
tributaries, which irrigate an extensive country,
reputed to be one of the most fertile and delightful
in the Territory of Michigan. The banks of this
stream are now inhabited by detached bands of Chip-
peway and Ottaway Indians,* who have long enjoyed
the advantages of an easy subsistance, from the fine
hunting grounds in that vicinity, and the abundance
of fish afforded by the bay and other tributary wa-
ters. These lands have recently been disposed of

* It is understood that the northern missionary society of the
city of Albany are about to establish a missionary family upon
some of the tributary streams of Saganaw river, and that an ag^pnt
has been sent out to » xplore the country, and to report upon the
feasibility of the design.

13

98

lo the United States government, and will shortly be
thrown into market. Prom the terms ot high admi-
ration of which all continue to speak of the riches of
the soil, and the natural beauty of the country, and
its central and advantageous position for business,
we are led to suppose that it presents uncommon in-
citements to enterprising and industrious farmers and
mechanics.

X. Day — {.June 2d.) — In order to cross Saganaw
Bay with safety in a canoe, it is necessary to pass up
the eastern shore from Point aux Barques to Point
aux Chenes, a distance of eighteen miles. Here, if
the lake be calm, the voyageur crosses by a stretch
of twenty miles to the opposite shore, with the advan-
tage of landing on the island of Shawangunk, should a
storm overtake him in the centre of the Bay, which
is frequently the case. On gaining the opposite
shore, it is necessary to pass down the bay about
the same distance that was formerly ascended, be-
fore the open lake is again reached. The entire
crossing can easily be performed in one day if the
weather is favourable, but this does not always hap-
pen, and the fatal accidents that have formerly be-
fallen those who were too venturesome, have opera-
ted as a severe caution to voyageurs and canoe-tra-
vellers of the present day. so that it is difficult to in-
duce the former to attempt it, unless the weather be
perfectly clear and the bay calm. Fortunately, we
were not detained by these causes, and effected the
crossing and re-entry of the lake at so seasonable an
hour, that we were allowed time to proceed two
leagues beyond, and encamped at the mouth of the

99

river aux Sables, making an entire distance of fifty-six
miles. In crossing the bay we landed a few moments
upon Shawangunk island which is found to be based
upon compact limestone, and contains imbedded
masses of Chalcedony, and calcareous spar. 1 also
picked up, during the short period we remained, a
lump of the argillaceous oxyd of iron, and some de-
tached fragments of a coarse striped jasper. These
discoveries created a strong desire to make a geolo-
gical survey of the island, but we were prevented
from attempting it, by the necessity of an expeditious
progress across the bay while the weather favoured.
On reaching the river aux Sables, we found a number
of Chippeway Indians upon the shore, and a perma-
nent village at the distance of two miles above its dis-
charge. They appeared friendly, and as soon as
our tents were pitched came formally ic the Govern-
or's marque. A chief of the Chippeways then ad-
dressed the Governor in a speech in which he told
him that he was glad to see him there — that he had
heard of his coming — and hoped he would see, and
relieve their wants, &c. The pipe of peace was then
smoked in the usual style of Indian ceremony, by
handing it to all present, each one taking a whifT,
which is all that is required : when this ceremony
was ended, they commenced that of shaking hands,*

* The practice of shaking hands we afterwards found universal
among the northwestern tribes, but vvere unable to ascertain
whether it is an ancient custom, or has been introduced by their
intercourse with Europeans. To ascertain that a custom so an-
cient and so universal in the Old World, and which is one of the
most striking characteristics of civilized nations, was also preva-
lent among the aborigines of America, at the period of its discov-

156747

100

beginning with the Governor, and passing round in a
circle to each individual composing his suite. They
afterwards presented some fresh sturgeon {accipenser)
which are caught in abundance in that river, and re-
ceived in return some tobacco and whiskey, and then
departed to their villages. We were anxious to wit-
ness hov\ our Indians, on first landing, would conduct
themselves towards those of the river aux Sables,
and whether they would demonstrate any feelirig of
joy or satisfaction upon the interview, and were some-
what disappointed to see a total indifference, or re-
serve, maintained. They appeared neither to see,
or know each other, nor could we learn that any fa-
miliarity ensued between them during our stay at
that place. Nothing appeared to give them so much
satisfaction as the whiskey they received, and when
it was drank they presented a request for more. We
have since observed, that the passion for drinking
spirits is as common to the tribes of this region, as it
is to the remnants of the Iroquois, inhabiting the wes-
tern parts of New-York. To procure it they will
part with any thing at their disposal, and if they
have no furs or dried venison to exchange, they will
sell their silver ornaments, their guns, and even parts
of their dress. They generally become intoxicated
whenever an opportunity is presented, and a trader
or traveller can present nothing which is of half so
much value in their estimation. We have generally

ery, would establish a coincidence of the most important nature.
But the period for making this observation has long ^one by. —
Thnre are probably, no tribes now in America, who have not
some knowledge of Europeans} or their American descendants.

101

found it the firsts and the last thing enquired for. It
appears this habit was contracted at an eai-ly period
by the lake Indians, and the anecdote* thfit Charle-
voix relates of an intoxicated Indian, is a proof that
it was common in his time. It is due, however, to the
tribes of Lake Superior, and ihe heads of the Mis-
sissippi, to say, that we found them far less eager for
whiskey than the more contiguous tribes, and that
cases weie presented, in which it was not relished,

XI. Day. — {June 3d) — The distance from the river
aux Sables to Thunder Bay,* is forty miles, reckon-
ing to the island, — thence to Flat Rock Point, called
by heChippeways, Sho-she-ko-naw-be-ko-king, eight
miles. These form the extreme points of our jour-
ney during this day. After leaving the aux Sables
five or six miles, a ridge of highland appears visible
from the lake, at some distance back, and continues
in a general direction north northwest, which is that
of the lake coast, to Thunder Bay, and then bears fur-
ther west, and becomes invisible. In crossing Thun-
der Bay, we halted at an island which lies in the
track of the usual traverse, for a short time, and
while there, observed a kind of Indian altar erected
beneath a tree near the water's edge. This consists

*" An Ottaway, called John Le Blanc, who was a bad rhris-
tian and a great drunkard, on being; asked by the Count De Fron-
teuac, what he thought the brandy of which he was so foi^d, was
made of, he said of tongues and hearts, for, added he. after I h.tve
drank of it I fear nothing, and I talk like an angel." — Charlevoix's
Journal, vol. 11. p. 83.

* VAnse, du Tonnhe, of the old French writers.

102

oi a block of quartzy granite, worn, apparently by
the water, into a columnar shape, terminated by a
kind of cornice, and on account of its remarkable
ohape and appearance, had probably been carried
A'om the water's edge and set up at that spot. It is
probable also that this column of granite is dedicated
to one of their numerous local gods or manitoes,
and that he is supplicated for prosperous voyages
across the Bay.

What has been so often reiterated, as to the high-
ly electrified state of the atmosphere at this Bay,
seems to have no foundation in truth. There is no-
thing in the appearance of the surroundingcountry, — •
in the proximity of mountains, — or the currents of
the atmosphere, to justify a belief that the air con-
tains a surcharge of the electric fluid. In no place
does the coast attain a sufficient altitude to allow us
to suppose that it can exert any sensible influenxe
upon the clouds, nor is it known that any mineral
exhalations are given out in this vicinity, as has been
suggested, capable of conducing towards a state of
electrical irritability in the atmosphere. From the
northwest cape of Saganaw Bay, to the vicinity of
Flat-Rock-Point, we find the shore of the lake an
alluvial bank, edged with a beach of sand, with
masses of primary and fioetzose rocks, sparingly scat-
tered along the shore, or projecting above the wa-
ter. In no instance do the rock strata jut out along
the shore, untrl we reach Thunder Bay, and here
they are not elevated more than two or three feet
above the level of the water, but generally very
much shattered by the violence of the storms, so as
rather to present a bed of rubbish, than a ledge of
rock. This rock, where it can be examined, i? a

103

compact limestone, abounding in petrified remains,
and is seen, although the stratum is occasionally inter-
rupted, from Thunder Bay to Shoshe-Konawbekoking,
the site of our present encampment, where the num-
ber and variety of reliquse, the perfect state of pe-
trifaction they present, and the facility with which
they are disengaged from the rock, are very surpris-

XII. Day. — -[Jime 4/^.) We embarked at six o'clock,
but after proceeding about a league were driven
ashore by a thunder storm, which suddenly arose,
attended with a violent wind and rain. In the course
of a few hours the storm abated, and we again took
the lake, but a renewal of the storm, on going seven
or eight miles, again compelled us to the shore,
where we were detained during the remainder of
the day. A noted island of Lake Huron, called
The Middle Island, now bears from our encampment
due north, and is distant six or eight miles from the
shore. This island affords a shelter to vessels en-

* Among these relics, we find various species of conchoHles,eris-
matolites; and heliuintholites. We particularly recognize the cornu-
madreporite, the conite, and the celleporite ; and the cornu-ammon-
ite, which has so often been mistaken for the petrified snake, is
found abundantly along this part of the coast. Many of these
relics have already been noticed in the floetz rocks of the United
States, particularly by Dr Drake, in the valley of the Ohio, by Mr.
Eaton, in the valley of the Hudson, and by J. G. Bogert, Esq.
along the southern shore of Lake Ontario, and it is believed an
increased attention to the subject, is all that is required to render
our Fossil Zoology, as rich as that of any other country. Geolo-
gists have yet to learn, however, that the Jleshy part of snakes or
other amphibious animals, has ever been discovered in a state of
petrifaction .'

104

gaged in the lake trade, and is occasionally resorted
to by canoe-travellers.

Xlfl. Day. — {June 5th.) The wind still conti-
nuing ahead, it was concluded to send the canoes
along the shore, with the soldiers and vojageurs,
while the remainder of the party proceeded on foot.
At ten o'clock we reached Presque fsle, and carried
our canoes ai.d baggage across the portage, which
is about two hundred yards, over a low sandy neck
of land, connecting the peninsula with the main
shore. By this portage, we save a voyage of six or
eight miles around a point of land which projects, at
this place, into the lake. On reaching the head of
the portage, we found that the wind had increased
to such a degree as to render it impossible to pro-
ceed, and we encamped upon the sand. Here our
Indians brought in a brown rabbit,* a species of wa-
ter turtle, and some pigeons ; being the only success
met with in hunting since leaving Detroit, with the
exception of a partridge, (a species of grouse,) killed
a few days previous. It is not to be inferred, how-
ever, that the country is destitute of game, or the sa-
vages lack skill in hunting it, but the plentiful sup-
ply of provisions which they have derived from the

* This is presumpd to be a variety of the /American Hare, of
zoolog;ists, and may be distinguished by the following characters :
Bctdy about eighteen inches long, — colour of the hair greyish-
brown on the back, — greyi.^h-white beneath — neck and body
rust}' and cinereous, — legs pale rust colour, — tail short< browa
above, white beneath. — hind legs longest, and callous a short dis-
tance from the paws up, — ears tipped with black, — covering of
the bf^dy, rusty fur, beneath long coarse hair, — ^probable weight
six pounds.

105

home-stock of the expedition, takes aWay much of
the usual incitements to hunting, while either the ra-
pidity of our movements, or ihe momentary expecta-
tion of re-embarking, while detained by head winds,
has prevented them from straying any considerable
disstance from camp. In these short excursions^ they
have frequently observed the tracks of the deer, and
black bear, too of the largest animals now remaining
in the forests along Lake Huron. Circumstances
have been equally unpropitious in their attempts up-
on the ducks, and other aquatic birds, which have
occasionally, although not in large flocks, been seen
along the shores ; for the noise occasioned by our
paddles has served to alarm them long before we
could approach within shooting distance.

At five o'clock in the eveninji the wind abated, and.
we left Presque Isle with the design of continuing
in our canoes all night, but at eleven o'clock the
wind had freshened to such a degree, and the night
become so dark, ihat we were compelled to encamp,
after having gone about twenty miles.

XIV. Day. — {June 6th.) — From the place of our en-
campment on the 5th, to the island of Michilimack-
inac, is computed at fifty-two miles. Our ardent de-
sire of reaching that place, and the spirit manifested
among the voyageurs, on seeing themselves within a
day's journey of it, produced a very early emba-rka-
tion, and notwithstanding a moderate head wind, we
advanced against the current at tiie rate of five miles
per hour, and entered the harbour of the northwest-
ern metropolis at four o'clock in the afternoon. The
intermediate shore of Lake Huron, presents no
change of character worthy of remark ; the same

14

106

kind of soil, the same trees, the same rock strata and
pebbly shore, and the same unvaried expanse of wa-
ter towards the north, serve to imprint a character
of uniformity upon the scene. Among the forest
trees, pine, hemlock, and spruce predominate, mixed
with some maple, oak, birch, and poplar. No bluffs
appear along the shore, but the rock, where appa-
rent, is a compact limestone with organic remains.
Fragments of hornblende, granite, breccia, and trap,
all very much water worn, and not in place ^ continue
along the shore. On approaching within four leagues
of ;\jichilimackinac, we perceive ourselves opposite
the foot of the island of Bois Blanc, which is about
ten miles in length, and takes its name from the Lirio-
dendron tulipifera by which it is in a great part cov-
ered. It is here necessary to cross over a channel
of three or four miles in width to the island, and to
pass up around its southern margin to its northwest-
ern extremity. We accomplished this part of the
voyage with great labour, and at some hazard ; the
lake being so much agitated as frequently to throw
the waves into our canoes. In passing around the
southwestern curve of the island of Bois Blanc, we
leave the site of old Michilimackinac, and the en-
trance into lake Michigan, on our left, and it is here
that the island of Michilimackinac first bursts upon
the view. JNothing can present a more picturesque
or refreshing spectacle to the traveller, w^earied with
the lifeless monotony of a canoe voyage through
Lake Huron, than the first sight of the island of Mi-
chilimackinac, which rises from the watery horizon
in lofty bluffs imprinting a rugged outline along the
sky, and capped with two fortresses on which the
American standard is seen conspicuously displayed-

10?

A compact town stretches along the narrow pliln
below the hills, and a beautiful harbour chec-
quered with American vessels at anchor, and Indian
canoes rapidly shooting across the water in every
direction. There is no previous elevation of coast
to prepare us for encountering the view of an island
elevated more than three hundred feet above the wa-
ter, and towering into broken peaks which would
even present attractions to the eye of the solitary ira-
veller, among the romantic and sublime scenes of the
wilderness of Arkansaw. Independent of its imposing
features, and its pleasing no\ elty, we feel an inexpres-
sible degree of delight, after traversing an Indian wil-
derness of nearly four hundred miles in extent, to find
ourselves once more approaching the seat of a civil-
ized population, with all its concomitant blessings. It
can only be known to those who have traversed sa-
vage regions — who have subsisted long without the
most common conveniencies of life — with what feel-
ings the traveller approaches scenes, where, even
for a few days, he is to renew former modes of living,
and to partake of the advantages of a retined socie-
ty. At an intermediate distance between Bois Blanc
and Michiliraackinac, lies Round Island, a well
timbered islet, that serves to land-lock the harbour
of Michihmackinac, which we immediately entered,
on clearing the northern cape of this island, and en-
camped on the narrow plain below the fort, and in
the immediate vicinity of the town. The expedition
was received with a national salute from the garri-
son, and we landed amid the congratulations of a
number of the citizens who had assembled on our ar-
rival. Thus terminates the first part of our jouriipj',
after a tedious voyage of fourteen days, in whicJi wc

108

have encountered an almost continual beac! wind,
with showers of rain, and very little weather that
can be considered as warm for the season, the high-
est point at which the thermometer has been observ-
ed being 70°, and the mean daily temperature 51°.*
We have also foutid the natural history of the coun-
try, less interesting in the main, than was expected;
and the scenery has not been sufficiently diversified
to kpep up a general interest. Particular scenes
have attracted admiration, but it has arisen wholly
from the mildness and beauty of their outlines, and
the pleasing elfect of the water ; and not from any
features of boldness or sublimity. The islands
alono; the shore, have served to give relief to the
eye, when often there was nothing else to excite an
interest. The quadrupeds, the birds, and the plants,
would furnish very interesting objects to the land
traveller, but can only be glanced at by the hasty
voyageur. The chalcedony of Shaw^angunk, and
the staurotide procured near Elm creek, are the
principal substances that reward a mineralogical
search of the shores. It is the geology of the region
pnly that sustains a general interest, and promises a
rich reward, and we have been enabled to make

* Mdeoroiot^ical Obitrvaiiuns on Lake, Huron.

Date.

Air.

Water.

Mean |Mean! Prevail-
temp.jttmp.l ing
ut'wat ot'air.' wincls

Weather.

L. Huron

1320.

May 28th.

""'' 29lir
" 30th
" 3 1 St.

A.M. 1 P. M.

A. M. 1 P. M.

6

8 10

12l i 4 6 8

6

3

10 12l 2

J

6j 8

59

1

I'

i70| S3

4t 55
^ 54

-

53
60

S2\~

50
63

44

51

55

~49~

N W.
N.\V,

■nTw

Clear.
Tliuiuler.

40j 1 53 j 148
~J54'45|~|54 48

--

Clear.

45

53

June 1st.

46's7i '

6.ri r

54 42

54

" 2.».

•■ 3J. iO

49

51

ss, \~\so~\ r

~)49|~'45| |_
S7 ~|~j44: i I
JV 1 i-16| 1 150

-

56

52

|46

47

52

" ith.

52

43

49

49

w.

WNW.

Rain.
Cloudy.

■ " 6'«J>,

I"! 1

50 1 50 |WNW,

Clear.

■ ■■ i)258 10)515

Tlo 51o

]09

very ample collections both of hand-specimens of
rock strata, and of imbedded fossils. The soil until
reaching the head of St Clair river, is an alluvion,
that may be considered equal in quality with the val-
ley of the Ohio or the Mississippi, but from thence
to iMichilimackinac partakes too much of the sand of
the shore, and is in many places swampy, with the
exception of the fii:e region about Saganaw, and the
extreme point of the peninsula of Michigan.

Tlie distance from Detroit to Michilimackinac,
is computed at three hundred miles, by those who
perform the route in vessels oi a large size, but is
considerably more, as will appear from the follow-
ing table, when all the indentations of the shore are
followed.

OF THE STATIONARY DISTANCES BETWEEN DETROIT AND
THE ISLAND OP MICHILIMACKINAC.

To the upper end of Peach Island, and en-
trance into Lake St. Clair. - - _
Grosse Point, - - - - -

Mouth of Huron River, of Lake St. Clair,
Mouth of St. Clair River,
Belle Riviere, at St. Clair settlement,
Bla-k River, - - . . -

Fort Gratiot, - - - - «

White Rock,

Elm Creek ------

Black River, ..----

Point Aux Barques, - - . -

Point Aux Chenes, on Saganaw Bay,
Shavvaufi^unk Island, - - - -

River Aux Sahles, - - - - -

Thunder Bay Island, - - - -

Fiat Rock Point, near Middle Island,
Presque Isle . - - - .

Lower end of the Island of Bois Blanc,
Michili«iackinacj » - . -

Vliles.

Total JMiles.

6

3

9

15

24

8

32

18

60

9

69

2

n

55

126

10

136

12

148

12

160

18

178

11

189

30

210

40

250

18

268

20

288

60

348

12

360

CHAPTER III.

iSlXDJrS SESIDEJVCE JIT MICHILIMACKL^AC, mCLUDIJ^G
A VISIT TO THE ST. MARTIJTS ISLAJVBS.

XV. Day.— (June 7/A.)

J. HE island of Michilimackinac is nine miles in cir-
cumference, and covers an area of about seven
thousand six hundred and eighty acres. Its extreme
elevation above the lake is three hundred and
twelve feet, according to the observations of the
garrison, and nine hundred feet above the Atlantic
ocean, which is something more than half the height
of the Highlands of the Hudson.* Although its

* The altitude of the following points has been ascertained by

admeasureaient :

HIGHLANDS OF NEW-YORK.

West-Point, above the Hudson 188 feet

Fort Putnam, 598

Bare Mountain, 1350

Crow's Nestj 1418

Butter-Hill, 1529

New-Beacon, (east side) 1582

The highest peak of the Catskill mountain, as calcu-
lated by Capt. Partridge, 3804

Highest peak of the Alleghanies, in Pennsylvania, J 300

Aclcaly's Essay on the Geology of the Hudson.

Ill

bluflfs present the appearance of sterility, they are
covered with a strong soil, which is continually re-
novated by the spontaneous decomposition of calca-
reous rock, and the island has been long, and we are
led to believe, very juatly, celebrated for the salu-
brity of its atmosphere. It contains three objects
of natural curiosity which are generally visited by
strangers. The Giant'' s ^rch, — The JVatiiral Pyramid,
or, sugar loaf rock, and 17ie Scull Rock. The for-
mer is a natural arch projecting from the precipice
on the northeastern side of the island, about a mile
from the town, and elevated one hundred and forty
feet above the level of the water. Its abutments are
the calcareous rock common to the island, and have
been created by the falling down of enormous mass-
es of the rock, leaving a chasm of eighly or ninety
feet in height and crowned with an arch of fifty or
sixty feet sweep, having the usual curve of factitious
arches. The best view is from the beach, at the
water's edge. On viewinor it from above, you are
obliged to approach within ten or twelve feet of
the chasm by which it is produced, before it can
be distinctly seen, so that the effect of perspective
is lost. 1 he natural pyramid is a lone standing
rock, upon the top of the bluff', of probably thirty
feet in width, at the base, by eighty or ninety in
height, of a rugged appearance, and supporting, in its
crevices, a few stunted cedars. It pleases chiefly by
its novelty, so wholly unlike any thing to be found
in other parts of the world, and on first approaching
it, gives the idea of a work of art. Its appearance
is readily explained by perceiving it to be a calca-
reous carbonat of the same character as that upon
which it is based, and retaining its original geolo^i-

112

ca] situation, and by supposing it to be the relic of a
stratum which formerly extended to that depth over
the whole island. There is every appearance to
justify the conclusion, that such a decay and removal
of rock matter has taken place.

The Scull Rock is chiefly noted for a cavern which
appears to have been an ancient receptacle of hu-
man bones, many of which are still to be observed,
about its mouth. The entrance is low and narrow,
and seems to promise little to reward the labours of
exploration. It is here that Alexander Henry was
secreted by a friendly Indian, after the horrid mas-
sacre of the British garrison, at 0/c/ Michilimackinac,
in 1763.*

The present town of Michilimackinac is pleasantly
situated around a small bay, on the southern ex-
tremity of the island, and consists altogether of about
one hundred and fifty houses, several of which are
handsomely painted. Its permanent population does
not differ far from four hundred and fifty, but is some-
limes swelled by the influx of traders, voyageurs and
Indians, to one or two thousand. The harbour is
safe in all winds, and sufficiently large to accommo-
date a hundred and fifty vessels. Fort Michilimac-
kinac stands on a rocky eminence, immediately
above the town, and is at present garrisoned by a
company of infantry, under the command of Capt.
Peirce. Fort Holmes occupies the apex of the
island, and is not at present garrisoned. This for-
tress was erected by the British while they held
possession of the island, during the late war, and by
them named Fort George. But after the surrender of

* See Ilenrj's Travels and Adventures, p. 110.

113

the island, the name was aUered in compliment to
the memory of Major Holmes, who fell in the un-
fortunate attack upon the island, by Col. Cros-han.
The town of iVIichiiimackinac is now the seat of jus-
tice for a county of the same name, which has re-
cently been erected in this part of the Michigan
Territory. According to the observation of Lieut.
Evileth, it lies in north latitude 45^ 54' — which is
only 23' north of Montreal, as stated by Professor
Silliman.* It is in west longitude from Washington
city, T 10'.

XVI. Day. — (June 8//i.) In consequence of a re-
ported discovery of gypsum upon the St. Martin's
islands, which belong to the Michilimackinac clus-
ter, I was directed by Gov. Cass to make a mi-
neralogical survey of those islands, and to report
upon the quantity and the quality of the gypsum
found To convey me thither an arrangement had
been made with Capt. Knapp, commanding the Unit-
ed States revenue cutter on this station, and accom-
panied by Capt. Douglass, of the expedition, and
Lieut. Pierce, of the army, I went on board the
cutter this morning, at ten o'clock. We were fa-
voured with a wind, and after accomplishing the ob-
ject of the voyage, returned to the harbour of Mi-
chiHmackinac before dark. The St. Martin's isl-
ands lie about ten miles northeast of Michilimacki-
nac. The largest is about nine miles in circumfer-
ence, by three broad at the widest part, and coubists
of alluvial soil, covered partly with a forest of oak,
maple, and poplar. In no place does it attain an

* Lat. of Montreal, 45o 31'. Silliman^s Tour from Hartfurd to
Quebec, J). 341.

15

114

elevation of more than twenty feet above the level
of the lake, and it is subject to a partial inunil;ition
in the spring, when the sudden melting of the north-
ern snows produces a rise of water in the lake. Im-
bedded in this soil, which appears naturally fertile,
we found large detached masses of gypsum, of a very
fine quality, and unconnected with any adhering
rock, so that no expense of blasting is necessary.
The principal body of this mineral noHced, consists
of i\\e granular I y foliated sulphate of lime of mineral-
ogy, mixed with scattered masses oi ihe: fibrous kind,
very white and beautiful. A great variety in the
colour, and its varying degrees of intensity is found,
amon.<r which white, red, and dark chesnut brown
predominate. Altogether the specimens bear a great-
er resemblance to the Nova Scotia gypsum, of which
such quantities are annually imported into the Unit-
ed States, than any of the numerous beds hitherto
discovered in New-York, and other sections of the
Union. And, if an opinion may be drawn from ex-
ternal characters, we may venture to consider the
St. Martin's, or, as it is already called, the "'Mackinac
gypsum^ of a superior quality for agricultural pur-
poses. As to the quantity in which it exists, nothing
can be decisively stated, as the earth has not been
much explored ; but from the abundance which is
scattered over the surface of the ground, and from
other geological appearances, it is probable that the
quantity will prove exhaustless.

XVII. Day.— {June 9^/i ) The island of Michili-
mackinac, and the adjacent coasts, have been the
the;Ure of some of the most interesting events in the
history of the settlement of the northwestern region^

115

of our continent. In adverting to them, I shall
apply the term modern to the present town of Michi-
limackinac, in order to distinguish it from the an-
cient town, which was situated on the extreme point
of the Peninsula of Michigan, about three leagues
distant from the island. It appears from Herriot,*
that the settlement of the old town, is due to the ex-
ertions of Father Marquette, a French missionary,
who came here in 167!, with a party of Hurons,
whom he prevailed on to locate themselves at that
spot, where a fort was constructed, and it afterwards
became an important post. This was eight years
before La Salle's expedition through the lakes, and
was the first point of European settlement made
northwest effort Frontenac, or Cadaracqui, on Lake
Ontario.t

M. Tonti, Hennepin, Charlevoix and other ancient
French writers, wlien tlsey speak of Miclulimacki-
nac, allude to the old peninsular fort. It continued
to be the seat of the fur trade, and the undisturbed
rendezvous of the Indian triltes during the whole pe-
riod that the crown of France exercised jurisdiction
over the Canadas. After the fall of Quebec in 1759,
it passed by treaty into the possession ot the British
government, but much against the wishes of the In-
dian tribes, who from long habits of intercourse with
the French, entertained an attachment and a par-
tiality which it was not easy to counteract. Such
was the spirit of animosity entertained by the Indians,

* See Herriot's Travels through the Canadas, p. 196.

t Neither Fort Niagara, or Fort Ponchartrain, ('the present site
of Detroit.) was then in existence The foundation of the firmer
was laid by La Sallf, in 1678, — the latter had not been erected
when La Honlan passed through the country, in l68S,

116

iliat one of the first English traders, (Alexander
Henrj,) who ventured to visit Michilimackinac>
found it necessary on his arrival at that place in
2761, to conceal the circumstance of his nativity, and
to conduct his trade under the name of a French
assistant whom he had employed. When the de-
ception was a few days afterwards discovered, his
goods were only saved to him, by the fortunate ar-
rival of a British garrison of 300 men, who gave pro-
tection to the English trade, and compelled the In-
dians, for a time, to smother the flame oi their animo-
sity. It was only, however, to break forth with re-
doubled violence, and the massacre of this garrison,
which ensued about eighteen months afterwards,
(176,i) while it exhibits one of the most shocking in-
staiic«^s of Indian barbarity, is at the same time, a
striking proof of the sagacity and dissimulation of the
Indian character. It appears from the very interest-
ing account which is given of this transaction by
Henry, who was an eye witness, that the Indians were
in the habit of playing at a game called hag-gat-iivay^
which is played with a ball and bat, on the principles
of our foot-ball, and decided by one of the party's
heaving the ball beyond the goal of their adversa-
ries. The king's birth day, the 4th of June, having
arrived, the Sacs aitd Chippeways,who were encamp-
ed in great numbers around the fort, turned out up-
on the green, to play at this game, for a high wa-
ger, and attracted a number of the garrison and tra-
ders to witness the sport. "The game of baggat-
iway, is necessarily attended with much violence
and noise. In the ardour of contest, the ball, as has
been suggested, if it cannot be thrown to the goal
desired, is struck in any direction by which it can

117

be diverted from that designed by the adversary.
At such a moment, therefore, nothing could be less
liable to excite premature alarm, than that the ball
should be tossed over the pickets of the fort, nor that
having fallen there, it sliould be followed, on the in-
stant, by all engaged in the game, as well the one par-
ty as the other, all eager, — all struggling, — all shout-
ing, in the unrestrained pursuit of a rude athletic
exercise ; nothing, therefore, could be more happily
devised, under the circumstances, than a stratagem
like this ; and it was, in fact, the stratagem which
the Indians employed to obtain possession of the
fort, and by which they were enabled to slaughter
and subdue its garrison, and such of the other iniiab-
itants as they pleased. * To be still more certainiof
success, they had prevailed upon as many as they
could, by a pretext the least liable to suspicion, to
come voluntarily without the pickets ; and particu-
larly the commandant and garrison themselves."*

This event finally sealed the fate of the fort and
the town, after having been the seat of the fur trade
for ninety-two years. The Indians, after butchering
the garrison, burnt down the fort, and the English
afterwards took possession of, and fortified the isl-
and of Michilimackinac, which had previously giv-
en name to the fort on the Peninsula. No event of
importance appears to have disturbed the tranquil-
ity, or retarded the growth of the modern town, for a
long period, during which its trade and size, were
both considerably increased. During the American
revolution we hear nothing of it, except as the ren-
dezvous of hostile tribes. By the treaty of Paris, of
1783, acknowledging the independence, and fixing

* Henry, p. 85.

118

the boundaries of (he United States, it fell under the
jurisdiction of the A.aerican government, and was
surrendered, according to McKenzie, in 1794. Du-
ring the late war, (1812 — 14) the fort was surprised
by a body of British troops, and maintained until
surrendered by the treaty of Ghent of 1814. In the
meantime an uissuccessfui assault was made upon it,
by Col. Croghai), who had distinguished himself in so
conspicuous a manner in the defence o( Fort St. Ste-
phens, at Lower Sandusky. This assault was mark-
ed by the death of the gallant Maj. Holmes, who fell
at the head of his column in attempting to drive the
enemy from a commanding position.

XVIII. Day. — (June lOth.) — Few persons have vis-
ited this Island without being struck with the variety
and the delicacy of the fish, which are caught in the
vicinity. Among them we see two species of trout,
the lake herring, black and white bass, sturgeon,
mosquenonge, white fish {ticamang of the Indians)
pike, gar, perch, and catfish, with several other spe-
cies of cartilaginous, and shell fish. Of these
the w hite fish is most esteemed for the richness and
delicacy of its flavour, and there is a universal
acquiescence in the opinion formerly advanced by
Charlevoix, *' that wdiether fresh or salted, nothing
of the fish kind, can excel it." We cannot, however,
agree with the Baron La Hontan in the remark " that
it has one singular property, namely, that all sorts
of sauces spoil it." This fine fish is very abundant
around the island, and is taken with the hook and
line. It has not heretofore been described in ichthy-
ological works, but Governor Clinton is disposed tf»

119

consider it a non-descript species of the salmo ge-

nus.

#

XIX. Day. — (^Jiine \}ih.) — The geological charac-
ter of the island of Michilimackinac, presents some
features, which so far as observations have enabled
us to judge, are peculiar to it. It consists of a stra-
tum of limestone of immense thickness, based upon
a calcareous rock, in which the semi-crystalline
structure, and almost entire absence of fossil remains,
prove its intermediate age. This formation is not
elevated more than a foot above the level of the
lake, and extends horizontally under the island. It is
overlayed by the rock forming the blulis which have
so commanding an appearance on the approach to
the island, and attaining various elevations from one
hundred to three hundred feet. Its compact struc-
ture^ and imbedded fossils leave no doubt as to its
posterior deposition, but what strikes us as peculiar
in this formation is the circumstance of its being
male up of fragments of both transition, and compact
limestone, with cavities of carbonat of lime in the
powdery form, (agaric mineral) together with small
fragments of a species of striped dinty agate, and in-
numerable small crystals of calcareous spar, thus giv-
ing it a breccioidal appearance. It is to be observed,
however, that no fragments of primitive rock, are
found in its composition, and that the calcareous
fragments are acute-angled, and bear no marks of
attrition. This formation is handsomely exposed
at the bluff, called Robinson's Folly, not quite a

* Memoir on the fishes of the western waters of the state of
New-York, apppnded to Mitrhill's Ifhth. oi'.2:v 1st vol. Trans-
actions of the Literary and Philosophical Society.

120

mile east of the town. The orf^aiiic relics found in
it are genernllj in the state of chalcedony, and some-
times covered with minute crystals of quartz. Of
this the best instance is afforded at Fort Holmes,
where the British garrison attempted to procure
water by sinking a very deep shaft, but without suc-
cess. This formation has not been traced on the ad-
joining shores. We shall content ourselves with
the bare mention of these facts, without attempting,
in this place, to apply them to existing theories, or
received classifications. The town of 'Mackinac,
stands on a strip of alluvion below the bluff, consist-
ing of small smooth water worn pebbles of calcareous
rock, covered with a deposit of black soil about one
foot in depth. On the west side ofthe island, at the wa-
ter's edge, there is a bed of light blue clay which is
said to burn white, and to be well adapted for pipes,
and other articles of pottery. Among the detached
minerals of the island, I have noticed the brown
oxyd of iron, and radiated quartz upon a basis of
limestone, togethf^r with fragments of the llinty agate
of the 'Mackinac limestone, which has just been men-
tioned. Detached blocks of granite and hornblende
rock, are scattered over the aUuvial soil of this island.
These are the leading traits of its mineralogy and
geology.

XX. Day.— ,Vw«e 12M.)— Hitherlo, very little atten-
tion has been paid to agriculture on the island, al-
though the soil is not deficient in strength. Garden
vegetables grow in great perfection. We have parti-
cularly remarked the dry and mealy quality of the
potatoe, and have no where observed finer beets
and cabbages. The little depth of soil, is, however.

121

unfavourable to forest trees, and there is a scarcity
of fire wood and building timber upon the island. A
supply of these articles is procured chiefly from the
neighbouring islands of Bois Blanc and Round Island.
Stone for building, and for quicklime, is abundant.
There are a number of sheep, cattle, and horses upon
the island, all of which thrive well. There is nei-
ther school or preaching upon the island. The town
has a post-office, a small jail, and a council house, in
which the courts of justice are held. There is no
regular bred attorney, although two persons, occa-
sionally practice. The only physician is the one
attached to the garrison. There appears therefore
in the present society of 'Mackinac the want of a
preacher, a school-master, an attorney, and a physi-
cian,— of merchants there are always too many. The
etymology of the word Michihmackinac, admits of a
ready explanation. It is a cotiipound of the word
missi or missile signifying " great," and Qnackinac the
Indian word for " turtle," from a fancied resem-
blance of the island to a great turtle lying upon the
water. These are words of the Chippeway lan-
guage. Herriot derives this name, but without much
probability, from Imakinakos, an Indian spirit suppo-
sed to have formerly inhabited the island. Since
our arrival here, there has been a great number of
Indians of the Chippeway and Ottaway tribes, en-
camped near the town. The beach of the lake has
been constantly lined with Indian huls and bark ca-
noes. The savages are generally well dressed, in
their own costume, and exhibit physiognomies with
more regularity of features and beauty of expression,
than it is common to find among them. This is pro-
bably attributable to a greater intermixture of blood

16

122

in this vicinity. These savas:es resort to the island
for the purpose of exchaiigiug their furs, for bhiiik-
et?, knives, and other articles. Their visits are pe-
riodical, beino; generally made after their spring and
all hunts, and their stay is sliort. Some of the tribes
also bring in for sale several articles of Indian man-
ufacture, particularly a kind of rush mat ot a very
handsome fabric, (see Plate 2, Fig. 13,j bark bas-
kets tilled with maple sugar, called rnoke-ocks^ (see
Plate 2, Fig. 3,) with quilled mockasins, (10 and 1],)
shot pouches ''12,) and other fancy goods ol Indian
fabric, which are generally in demand as articles of
curiosity.

During: our detention here, vessels have been con-
stantly entering or leaving the harbour, giving the
town an appearance of bustle and business, which
was not expected. This appearance of trade has,
perhaps, recently assumed a partial activity, by the
concentration of a considerable military force on
this frontier, which has furnished employment to a
number of vessels in the transportation of troops,
military stores, and provisions. The Indian trade is
chiefly conducted by the American, or South West
Fur Company, under the direction of Messrs. Stuart
and Crooks. Indeed the ware houses, stores, offi-
ces, boat yards and other buildings of this establish-
ment, occupy a considerable part of the town plat,
and the company furnishes employment to a great
number of clerks, engages, and mechanics, and con-
tributes very largely to the general business, activi-
ty, and enterprise ot the town. The trade and ope-
rations of this company are coi fined principally to
the northwestern territories of the United States.
As to the amount of capital vested, and the quantity

123

of furs annually returned into their ware houses, we
have no means of accurate infor;) ation. !t is said
to be less profitable now, than at a former period.
Th< following account of the produce of the fur
trade for one year, oiven by McKenzie, will serve to
give an idea of its foraier extent :

" 106,000 Beaver skins, " 6,000 Lynx skins,

2,100 Bearskins, 1300 Wolverine skins,

1,500 Fox ski:)S, 1, 6 ')0 Fisher skins,

4,000 Kitt Fox skins, 100 Raccoon skins,

4,(>00 Otter skins, 3,800 Wolfskins,

1(),000 Musquash skins, 700 Fik skins,
32,000 Martin skins, 750 Deer skins,

1,800 Mink skins, 1,200 Ceer do. dressed,

500 Buffiloe Robes, and a quantity of casto-
rum."

Whether the skins of these animals continue to form
the staple articles of the trade — w nether the propor-
tion of skins varies greatly in diiferent years — iind
whether there is an increase or diminution of th; total
amount, are the secrets of a business of which we
are ignorant.

The weather since our arrival upon the island, has
been cooler and more variable, we are informed,
than is common during this month. Out of six days,
two have been rainy and cloudy. The wind has
prevailed from the S. E. The highest point at
which the thermometer has been observed, as will
be seen by a reference to the following meteorologi-
cal register, is 6rf, and the average daily heat foi the
week 55^ which is eleven degrees lower than the mea

121

temperature of June at Quebec, according to the
observations of the late Duke of Richmond.*

During the afternoon of this day we beheld a strik-
ing instance of the singular manner in which the isl-
and is frequently enveloped in a fog, which is so
dense as to obscure objects at the- distance of two
hundred yards. Being at the moment engaged, in
company with Lieutenant Mackay, in sketching a
view of the fort and town, from Round Island, we
were compelled to relinquish our designs unfinished,
and it was with some difficulty we reached the har-
bour of 'Mackinac. These fogs are common upon
the lakes during the summer season. They rise
suddenly, without any previous indications of a hazy
atmosphere. — move with great velocity, and some-
times prove disastrous to canoe-traveliers, and
voyageurs.

* Silliman's Tour to Quebec, p. 294.

Mffeorolii^ical Ohs' rvatitnis at Michilinwcliinac. 1

1!-,2j.

Atmosplieric temp.

'";fail
tf rnp.

55
6G
49
5G
51

Winds.

Weather.

A. M

l> M.

\7\^-

V2

'J! 6
62 59
(Ts 52

6ji

1

54

« 8th.

46147
-150

56

\V. N. W.

Clear.

W. N. V/.

"

" yiii.

4-1 5 ;

55

S. E.

Ii:.in. {

" lOih.

S. E.

Kain.

!

" llvh.|52i i

54 ,51

S. E.

Clear. j

" 12th.

|c;4|

55

|5':

59 ; S. E.

!

"■ lo'll

531 i

!

5,3

s. w.

Clear, quit Mack.

at 10.

7)385

55° Mean daily temperature.

CHAP. IV.

J O U RJV E Y,

FROM MICHILIMACKIJVAC TO THE SAULT DE ST. MARIH.

XXI. Day.— (Jw«c 13M.)

JL HE provisions and stores shipped from Detroit,
did not reach 'Mackinac until the lOth instant. We
also found our canoes deficient both in size and con-
struction, and that to embark the provisioi^s ot the
expedition, an additional number would be requir-
ed. To secure our corn, flour, bacon, &;c. more
completely from exposure, it was considered advan-
tageous to get the principal part of these articles
packed up in ten gallon kegs, an arrangement that
would also very much facilitate the loading and un-
loading, which must, at least, be performed every
morning and evening. Additional sources of delay
arose from military equipments, the tardiness of me-
chanics, and unfavourable winds, which prevented
us from quitting 'Mackinac, until this morning. Our
whole force now consisted of forty -two persons, em-
barked in four canoes, exclusive of a detachment of
twenty-two soldiers from the garrison of 'Mackinac,
under the command of Lieut. Pierce, which occupied
a twelve oared barge. This escort was deemed ne-
cessary to accompany us to the Sault, where the In-

126

clians were reportecl to entertain a spirit of hostility
towards the United States, and some even went so
far as to affirm that they would attempt to stop our
passage through Lake Superior. We left the har-
bour of 'Mackinac at ten o'clock in the morning,
with a favourable breeze, which carried us at the
rate of five miles per hour, and passing the De Tour
belbre sun-set, ascended the straits of St. Marj, five
miles, and encamped on the west shore, opposite
Drummond's Island. The entire distance is forty-
five miles. The intermediate places of most note,
are Outarde Island, at the distance of three leagues
from Michilimackinac, and the mouth of Rapid ri-
ver, which is passed at the distance of twenty miles.

The banks of Lake Huron are generally low and
swampy ; in some places there are sa dy plains,
covered with pine. The shore is strewed with frag-
ments of limestone, granite, and hornblende ; and
the former, in the compact form, appears in situ, at
the few places where we had an opportunity to ex-
amine it. A ridge of highland appears on the main
land east of 'Mackinac, stretcliing off towards the
Sault de St. Marie, in a general course, northeast.
This ridge apparently belongs to that mountain
chain of which the island of Michilimackinac is, pro-
bably, one of the disjointed links ; but we are not
enalded to sr;y that this remark will be justified by
geological correspondences.

The Detour is the western cape of the Straits of
St. Mary, distant forty miles from IVIichilimackinac,
and situated, according to McKenzie, in north lati-
tude 'llf .04'. Here our course is suddenly changed
from E. to N. and N. VV. consequently the wind, which
was fevourable thus far, proved a serious incon-

127

venience at the moment of our turning the point. No
current in the Strait has, however, as yet, been expe-
rienced. The mercury has not risen over 63° in the
shade, aUhough standing at 82° in the sun. In the
course of the afternoon of this day, on landing in a
small cove, on the Huron shore, we ^aw a large por-
cupine upon the beach, on which one of the voya-
geurs immediately jumped out of the canoe, and
killed it with a hatchet. 1 his animal has general-
ly been confounded, by the travellers of the region,
with the hedge-hog, which is entirely different in its
characters and habits, and is not supposed to inha-
bit the northern regions of America, although it is
frequently found in high northern latitudes in Eu-
rope,— as in Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Buffon
gives two engravings of the porcupine, as distinct
species, under the name of UUraon,, and Le Coen,"
dou. both said to inhabit the Canadas. But there is
some reason to suppose that he has described the
same animal in its summer and w inter dress, as the
thinness and scarcity of hair on his IJUrson^ is the
principal characteristic difference. The porcupine
is known to shed a great portion of its hair as the
warm season approaches. This animal is called
Cagua, by the Ind ans, by whom it is highly valued
for its quills. The skin does not form an article of
traffic, but it serves them as a vessel to hold bears
oil, and as medicine bags or short pouches. The
quills are dyed, with indigenous plants, of various
beautiful colours, and employed to trim the edges of
their mockasins, leggons, skins, and dresses. The
colours, which are red, blue, green, black, and yel-
low, are very bright and permanent, and a mockasin
gr Indian siioe, which has been thus ornamented^

128

may be worn any length of time, in mud and water,
without perceiving that the colouring matter of the
quills is any way obliterated or discharged. The
Indians are also very tond of the flesh of this animal,
which is said to be delicious, and to resemble in fla-
vour a young pig. It fixes its habitation under the
roots of trees, but being provided v\ith sharp claws,
also ascends their boughs in quest of fruit. There
are four claws on each fore paw, and five on the
hinder ones. It has small ears, hid in the hair, and
a long bushy tail covered with coarse hair, white
and black. It is a lazy animal, seldom going more
than a mile from its habitation ; has a slovi^ motion,
and is easily overtaken and killed. When attacked
it appears to rely, with a foolish confidence, upon its
quills, which are, in reality, a very inefficient de-
fence. It has no power to eject them, but when
touched, they easily leave the skin, but will not
work their way into the flesh, as has been repre-
sented. The Indians, however, employ them for
boring their ears and noses. They seldom make use
of the rifle in killing this animal, but lun up and
despatch it with the tomahawk. The one now kill-
ed would probably weigh eight pounds.

XXll. Day.— C/wwe Mih.) We embarked at five
o'clock in the morning, and reached the Sault de St.
Marie, in season to pitch our tents before sun set.
The distance is fi^rty-five miles. The country con-
tinues low and swampy, until you corne within three
or four miles of the Sault, where it is handsomely
elevated. There are two rapids in the intermediate
distance, which are ascended with loaded canoes.
The. lake or strait, may be supposed to cease, and

129

the river to commence, at the foot of the first rapid
called Mi'icoutin or JVibish, as there is no percepti-
ble current below it, where the strait assumes a
great width, and is filled with innumerable islands.
Keeping close to the western shore, these islands
constantly bound the view on the east until with-
in five miles of the Sault, where the difierent chan-
nels unite. The ship channel lies on the east side
ofthe islands, where the great body of water passes,
and the rapids are less formidable. In passing up
the rapid of Nibish, in the west channel, which
is generally taken by canoes, we experienced a very
swift current, and shallow water, and injured our
canoes so much that we were compelled on reaching
the head of it, to unload, and repair. It was one
o'clock when we passed the rapid, and this accident
consumed a couple of hours. In the meantime the
sky became overcast, the wind arose and blew ahead,
and very heavy peals of thunder, indicated an ap-
proaching storm. After waiting sometime, however,
without getting any rain, we reloaded the canoes
and embarked, and had proceeded five or six miles
when a heavy shower of rain commenced. It did
not compel us to land, and at six o'clock in the eve-
ning the sky was clear. VV^e now passed the site of
the village of St. Joseph, upon the island ofthe same
name, where the British maintained a garrison be-
fore the late war, but it was demolished by Col.
Croghan previous to his attack upon the island of
Michilimackinac, and the village burnt. Since that
period the English have fortified Drummond's island
at the entrance ofthe straits, which is now the depot
of their Indian trade. The island of St. Joseph is
large and fertile, and was considerably cultivated

17

130

previous to the late war. It is computed to be se-
venty-five miles in circumference, and to cover an
area o; fifty-seven thousand six hundred acres, which
is seven times the size of the island of 'Mackinac. The
site of the demolished fort, is elevated about fifty
feet, and is extremely beautiful and commanding.
It was first occupied by the British in iTOf}, prepa-
ratory to the surrender of 'Mackinac which took
place the following year. The stone chimneys of
the former houses are still standing to attest the bar
barous policy of war. At eight o'clock we passed
the second rapid, but without injury to our canoes.
This is situated two miles below the village of the
Sault, and on reaching the head of it, we have a hand-
some view of that village, with the intervening river
and shore, and the dense forest of elm, sugar maple,
ash, and pine, which lines this part of the river. In
passing up this river from the Detour no change in
the geological appearances of the country are seen,
until we apj^roach the head of the island of St. Jo-
seph, where the compact limestone disappears, and
is succeeded by a red sand stone. The latter rock
is particularly apparent, at the ensuing rapid in the
bed of the river, and continues from that onward.

XXIil. Day.— (June I5ih.)— The Sault de St. Ma-
rie, is the largest of three rapids which impede the
navigation of the river St. Mary between Lake Supe-
rior and Lake Huron, and puts a final stop to the
ship navigation of the northern lakes. It is situated
fifteen miles below the foot of Lake Superior, and
ninety northwest of the island of 'Mackinac, in N.
latitude 46° 31' accordmg to McKenzie. The fall of
the river, at this rapid, as ascertained by Col. Gra-

N

<

^

131

tiot, is twenty-two feet ten inches, in little more than
half a mile, which is nearly the same as the fall of
the Ohio at Louisville in the distance of two miles.*
Unlike that, however, it can never, at any season of
the year, be ascended with large vessels. Canoes
and barges usually go up with half a load, the ba-
jance being carried over the portage, but in return-
ing, descend with a full load. The bed of the river
consists of horizontal strata of red and variegated
sand stone, which have been much worn, broken,
and carried away, and large fragments of it, together
with blocks of mixed granite and hornblende, out of
place, are thickly strewed throughout the rapid,
and by opposing the rush of water, throw it violent-
ly in all directions, and at the distance of half a mile
give*it the appearance of a bank of foam. Several
wooded islands upon the inclined plane of the
falls, by contrasting the deep green foliage of the
hemlock, spruce, and pine, with the snowy white-
ness of the rapids, produce a contrast which has
a pleasing effect ; and with the shadowy outlines
of the distant mountains of Lake Superior, the
singular mixture of forest trees upon the shores,
and the fishing canoes of the savages, which are con-
stantly seen at the foot of the falls, render it one of the
most picturesque views of northern scenery. I have
attempted to seize upon some of the prominent fea-
tures of this scene in the accompanying sketch, (Plate
3,) which may also serve to convey an idea of the
unusual manner in which the maple, and the pine, —
the elm. and the hemlock, are intermingled in the
forests upon the banks of this beautiful stream.

* See Dr. Drake's Natural and Statistical View of Cincinr;ati,
and the Miami country, p. 15.

132

The village of the Sault de St. Marie, is on
the south or American shore, and consists of from
fifteen to twenty buildings, occupied by five or six
French and English families. Among the latter is
that of J. Johnston, Esq. a gentleman of rank, who,
in the prosecution of the northwest fur trade, set-
tled here shortly after the close of the American
revolution, and married the daughter of a Chippe-
way chief In the hospitality and politeness, which
during our stay at the Sault, we experienced in this
family, we have been made to forget our insulated
situation, and to observe how short a participation
in the blandishments of refined society, is sufficient
to obliterate the effect of the fatigues and privations
of travelling. The site of the village is elevated and
pleasant, and a regular plan appears to have been
observed in the buildings, though some of them are
in a state of dilapidation, and altogether it has the
marks of an ancient settlement fallen to decay. Such
indeed it is, having been settled by the French short-
ly after the occupation o^ old 'Mackinac, and it con-
tinued for a long time the site of a French fort and
Jesuit mission. Charlevoix, in 1721, speaks of this
mission as one of no recent date,* and Henry, in 1762,
found here a stockaded fort, with a small garrison,
under the command of a French national officer,
who was colloquially addressed by the title of Go-
vernor:] There were then four houses, two of which
had been occupied as barracks, and the fort is de-
scribed as " seated on a beautiful plain, of about
two miles in circumference, and covered with lujfu-

* Charlevoix's Journal, Vol. II. p. 45,
t Penry's Tra\'elsj p. 58.

133

riant grass, and within half a mile of the RapidsP
Although no vestiges of the old fort remain, this de-
scription of the site is perfectly accurate at the pre-
sent moment. It has always been the residence of
Indian tribes, who are drawn to this spot in great
numbers, by the advantages of taking the white-fish,
which are very abundant at the foot of the rapid.
There are, at present, about forty lodges of Chippe-
way Indians, (called Saulteurs^ by the French,) con-
taining a population of about two hundred souls, who
subsist wholly upon the white-fish. " The method
of taking them is this : — Each canoe carries two
men, one of whom steers with a paddle, and the
other is provided with a pole, ten feet in length, and
at the end of which is affixed a scoop net. The
steersman sets the canoe from the eddy of one rock
to that of another; while the fisherman, in the prow,
who sees, through the pellucid element, the prey of
which he is in pursuit, dips his net, and sometimes
brings up at every succeeding dip, as many as it can
contain. The fish are often crowded together in the
water in great numbers, and a skilful fisherman, in
autumn, wdl take five hundred in two hours. This
fishery is of great moment to the surrounding Indians,
whom it supplies with a large proportion of their
winter's provision ; for, having taken the fish in the
manner described, they cure them by drying in
the smoke, and lay them up in large quantities."
{Henry,) These fish are preferred by most of our
party to the 'Mackinac trout. Their abundance
may hereafter render them an important article in
the commerce of the upper lakes.

On the north, or Canadian shore of the river, there
are also six or seven dwelling houses, occupied by

13 1

French and English iamilies, exclusive of the North-
west Company's establishment, which is seated im-
mediately at the foot of the Falls, and consists of a
number of store and dwelling houses, a saw mill,
and a boat yard. These are represented on the
right side of the View of the Sault de St. Marie.
Plate No. 3. This company have also constructed
a canal, with a lock at its lower entrance, and a
towing path for drawing up barges and canoes. At
the head of the rapid they have built a pier from
one of the islands, forming a harbour, and here a
schooner is generally lying to receive the goods
destined for the Grand Portage, and the regions
northwest of Lake Superior.

XXIV. Day. — {June l6th.) The commanding po-
sition of the Sault de St. Marie, on the outlet of
Lake Superior, and at the head of ship navigation,
had early pointed it out to the French as an advan-
tageous site for a military and a trading post, and we
accordingly find that it was occupied as such at an
early period of the settlement of Canada. By this
place all the fur trade of the northwest is compelled
to pass, and it is the grand thoroughfare of Indian
communication for the upper countries, as far as the
arctic circle. Independent of these circumstances,
the advantages of taking the white-fish, at the foot
of the Rapids, have always rendered it a place of
resort to the Indian tribes of the region, particular-
ly during the summer season, when the hunting is
most precarious. No place could, therefore, be
better adapted to acquire an influence over the sa-
vage tribes, to monopolize their commerce, and to
guard the frontier settlements against their incur-

135

sions. It is, indeed^ surprising to reflect upon the
early enterprize and sound judgment of the French
in seizidg upon the points, commanding all the
natural avenues and passes of the lakes, particular-
ly when it is considered that these selections must
necessarily have been the result of an ultimate ac-
quaintance with the geographical features of the
country. This is yearly proved by the re-occupa-
tion of posts and places long neglected, but the im-
portance of which has become apparent in propor-
tion as we have set a just value upon the Indian
trade, and the natural advantages of the country.
Perhaps in no instance is this more strikingly exem-
plified than in the Sault, the commanding position of
which, although always known to the traders, has
but lately been perceived by our government. The
advantages which a rival nation has taken of
this neglect, could not fail to excite attention at a
period when such laudable exertions are making in
all parts of the Union to explore the geography, and
to call into action the hidden resources of the coun-
try ; and it appears to have been among the prima-
ry objects of the expedition to prepare the way for
the introduction ofan American garrison at this place.
To attain this object, a council of the chiefs of the
Chippeway tribe was this morning summoned at the
Governor's marque, and the vievvs of the govern-
ment explained to them. By the treaty of Green-
ville, of 1795, a saving clause had been inserted by
Gen. Wayne, covering any gifts or grants of land in
the Northwest Territories, which the Indians had
formerly made to the French or English govern-
ments,* and this clause has been renewed or

* In the third article of this treaty, after reciting a number of
pjirticular cessions of landsj^ posts and carrying places, number-

136

confirmed by treaties with the same tribes since
the conclusion of the late war.* Under this trea-
ty, the United States claimed the concession for-
merly made at the Saiilt, to the French, by virtue of
which it had been occupied as a military post. It
was now proposed to treat for settling the boundaries
of the grant, and in this way obtain an acknowledg-
ment and renewal of it. These things were distinct-
ly stated through the interpreter. The Indians,
seated in their usual ceremonious manner, listened
with attention, and several of the chiefs spoke in re-
ply. They were evidently opposed to the proposi-
tion, and first endeavoured to evade it, by pretend-
ing to know nothing of the former grant, but this
point being pressed home, was afterwards given up, —
still they continued to speak in an evasive and desul-
tory manner, which amounted to a negative refusal.
It was also observable that there was no great unan-
imity of opinion among them, and some animated
discussion, between themselves, took place. Some
appeared in favour of settling the boundary, provid-
ed it was not intended to be occupied by a garrison,
saying, that they were afraid in that case, their

ed from one to eleven, it also cedes, " 12th. The post of De-
troit, and all the land to the noith, the west, and the south of
it, of which the Indian title has been extinguished by gifts or grants
to the French or English govprnnients," &c. Treaty with the
Wyandot, Delaware, Shawanee, Ottaway, Chippeway, Fottawata'
mu Miamiei Eel-river, fVeea, Kickapoo, Piankaahaw. and Kaskas-
kin nations. Greenville^ 3d August ^ ifJ^- — Land Laws of the
United States, p. 56.

* By the treaty of Detroit, or Spring: Wells, of the 8th Septem-
ber, 1815, and by the treaty of Fort Han ison, of the 4th June^
1S16.

137

young men might prove unruly, and kill the cattle
and hogs that should stray away from tlie garrison.
This was intended as an insidious threat, and I was
particularly struck with the reply of Gov. Cass, to
the chief who had thrown it out, in which lie said, —
that as to the establishment of a garrison at the
Sault, they might give themselves no uneasiness, for
that point was already settled, and so sure as the
sun, which was then rising, would set, so sure
would there he an American garrison sent to that
place, whether they renewed the grant or not. Such
decision has always great weight whh the In-
dians, and in the present instance was particularly
so, as a casual, but indiscreet and unauthorised con-
versation which had been held by some officers of
our party with one of the chiefs, before the council
assembled, had given them to understand that the
United States did not wish to occupy the Sault as a
military post. They were, however, determined not
to accede to our wishes, and in seeing ourselves
surrounded by a brilliant assembly of chiefs, dressed
in costly broadcloths, feathers, epaulets, medals, and
silver wares, of British fabric, and armed from
the manufactories of Birmingham, all gratuitously
given, we could not mistake the influence by which
they were actuated in this negociation. When,
therefore, several hours had been spent, durinof the
latter part of which the Indians employed a very
animated language, and strong gesticulation, the
council broke up, somewhat abruptly, without com-
ing to any final decision, at least, without assenting
to the proposition. The last chief who spoke, called
" the Count,"(a brigadierin the British service,) in the
course of his speech, drew his war-lance and stuck it

^uriously in the ground before him, and assumed 3^

18

130

look of savage wildness, which appeared to produce
a corresponding effect upon the othe'r Indians, for
there was an evident agitation among them, during
the latter part of the council ; and when he left
the marque kicked away the presents which had
been laid before him. On breaking up, they pro-
ceeded directly to their encampment, and we dis-
persed to our tents. A few moments only had.
however, elapsed, before it was discovered that the
Indians had hoisted the British flag in the midst oi
their encampment. On being informed of this, Gov.
Cass immediately ordered the expedition under
arms, and calling the interpreter, proceeded, with
no other escort, to the lodge of the chief, before
whose door it had been erected, took down the in-
sulting flag, and carried it back to our camp. Up-
on this occasion he entered the lodge of the chief
who had raised it, (the same who had before drawn
his v,'ar-lance in council,) and told him it was an in-
dignity they were not permitted to offer upon the
American territories, — that we were their natural
guardians and friends, and were always studious to
render them strict justice, and to promote their
peace and happiness ; but the flag was the distin-
guishing token of national power, connected with
our honour and independence, — that two national
standards could not fly in peace upon the same ter-
ritory,— and that they were forbid to raise any but our
own, and if they should again presume to attempt it,
the United States would set a strong foot upon their
necks, and crush them to the earth.* This intrepid

* I Jo not protend to quote the exact langu2;^e ot'llie Governors
cr to be positive as to every seiitimeut uttered, not having heard
liim, but rely upon n)y recollection of the account given by the

139

conduct struck the Indians with astonishment, and
produced an effect,™ which we were not at the mo-
ment sensible, was all that prevented an open rup-
ture. In ten minutes from the Governor's return to
our camp, the Indians cleared their lodges of every
woman and child, covering the river with canoes,
and expecting so decisive a step to be followed by
a general attack of their camp. In the mean time
it was looked upon by the expedition, as a prepara-
tory movement to the savage war whoop, and we
stood prepared to encounter the shock. Our num-
ber, at this time, including Lieut. Pierce's command,
was sixty-six men, well armed and prepared ; about
thirty of whom were United States soldiers. The
number of Indian warriors then upon the ground was
between seventy and eighty, being also well armed
in the Indian manner. Our encampment was regu-
larly formed upon the green, near the banks of the
river. The Indians occupied an eminence which
was formerly the site of the French fort, at the dis-
tance of five or six hundred yards, and separated
from us by a small ravine. We were kept in this
state of alarm for some time, when the Indians hav-
inof ceased to hold themselves in a hostile attitude,
the soldiers were dismissed to their tents. In the
mean time, an overture was proposed by some of
the older chiefs, who had not been present at the
council in the morning, and about seven o'clock in
the evening a treaty was concluded and signed, by

interpreter, (the only person with him,) on his return to camp. I
should not take the liberty of quoting; itatall, were it not necessary
to shew the feeling of resentment with which the insult was re-
ceived, and to explain our critical situation upon that occasion.

140

which they cede to the United States a tract of
land four miles square, commencing at the Sault, and
extending two miles up, and the same distance down
the river, with a depth of four miles, including the
portage, and the site of the village and old fort, but re-
serving the right of fishing at the falls, and of en-
campment upon the shore. When the agreement
was concluded, the Indian ceremony of smoking the
pipe of peace, and shaking hands, as mentioned in
Day X w^as performed, and their signatures by mark,
were afterwards obtained. For this cession of land
Ihey were paid on tlie spot, in blankets, knives, sil-
ver wares, broadcloths, and other Indian goods.

CHAP. V.

J O U R JV E Y,

FROM THE SAULT DE ST. MARIE TO THE OXTOJ\/"AG 0J\
RIVER OJ\r LAKE SUPERIOR.

XXV. Day.— {June \lth.)

XlURING our stay at the Sault, eleven barges and
canoes from the upper lakes descended the rapids
affording us a handsome opportunity to witness the
skill of 'he voyageurs in conducting canoes over this
dangerous leap. They were principally laden with
furs and skins for the North West and American
companies. At nine o'clock in the morning, we com-
menced the ascent of the Sault, the canoes carrying
half loads, while the soldiers were employed in car-
rying the remainder of the baggage across ihe port-
age, which is a little more than half a mile in length.
It was six o'clock in the afternoon, before this labour
was finished, when w^e embarked and proceeded six
miles to Point aux Pins, on the Canadian side of the
river ; and this is the only night during the whole
expedition w^hich we passed in the Canadian ter-
ritory. Point aux Pins was formerly noted as the
site of a ship yard, and had a few building^s to ac-
commodate the workmen, but the vestiges of these
only remain. The width and depth of the river at this
place, must have rendered it a favourable spot for

112

iauncliing vessels. The current is very gentle, and
the shore sandy, and entirely free from rocks. The
thermometer this day at 3 P. M. stood at 82°, being
the highest point at which it has been observed up-
on the river St. Mary.*

XXVf. DAY.—(Jmie }Sth.)—We embarked at six
o'clock in the morning. The distance from Point
aux Pins to the entrance into Lake Superior, was
now three leagues, the river spread broadly before
us, and the highlands which had been dimly seen
from the Sault, presented their imposing outlines
distinctly to the view, and were every moment as-
suming a new and more interesting character. The
morning was clear and pleasant, with a gentle breeze
blowing up the river, which, while it filled our sails
and relieved the voyageurs from labour, produced
an exhilerating effect upon our spirits, by its refresh-
ing coolness ; and we approached the lake with a
feeling of impatient delight. The most enchanting
views were presented in every direction, and we fully
realized the justice of ihe remark made by Carver
" that the entrance into Lake Superior affords one of
the most pleasing prospects in the world." Suddenly,
however, a storm arose, and compelled us precipi-
tately to land, and we were here detained from five

* I hrimometr/Ml chi:trvotion^ im thi; j.mn.eij horn 'Mackinac to Lnke Superior. 1

UAi>:.

1820.

Place of obser- | A.

M.

P. M.

Meani Wind and |

vation

6

8

10

12

1

■i

4

7

9
58

•leat.

Weathei*.

June lotli
" 14ili.

■Mack, to Delour.
St. Mary s River
Sault de St. Marie.

53

—

61

63

',9

Wind, S. W.
Ram.

• ii;

73

69

—

o7

:>6

61

« 15Ui.

*i

67

64

Cle«r.
Clear.

" 16th.

" "

5"

■/,.

76

81

^^6...,

69

" 17lh.
' 18Ui.

i< (.

,8

7

82

8<.

178

75

r;i.-.!- .

Head Riv St. Mary

561 \7-:.

/G

m

67

RainThuDder&c

395 j
66" mean dai. heat.'

113

to six hours. In the mean time the rain fell in tor-
rents, attended with very frequent peals of the most
severe and appalling thunder. At one in the after-
noon, the weather was perfectly clear and delight-
ful, when we again embarked. The entrance into
Lake Superior was now in full view, presenting a
scene of beauty and magnificence which is rarely
surpassed, even amid the rugged scenery of the north.
The river St. Mary here issues from a deep bay of
the lake, and passes out between two high promon-
tories called Point Iroquois,* and the Grand Cape,
which appear, at some remote period of the crea-
tion, to have been rent asunder, by one of those
unaccountable convulsions which have produced
so much confusion upon the surface of the earth.
This opinion is rendered probable from the ge-
neral course, elevation, and other appearances of
the chain of mountains which here runs parallel
Avith the lake shore, and I regret that we were
not permitted to land and examine the geologi-
cal appearances of the rock strata on both sides,
in order to detect a physical analogy which is now
only conjectural. I felt this regret the more sensi-
bly, as my expectations had previously been excited
by the account of an important mineral discovery,
which Henry states to have been formerly made at
the foot of the southern promontory, which is Point
Iroquois,'}' But these considerations, were merged

* This point takes its name from the circumstance of a large
party of Iroquois Indians having suffered a signal defeat upon it,
from a body of Fox's, Ottagaraies, and Chippeways. So say Car-
ver and Henry.

t The following extract embraces the notice alluded to. '* Mr.
Norburg, a Russian gentleman, acquainted with metals, and hold-
ing a commission in theGOlh Regt. and then in garrison at Michi-

144

in objects of greater moment, and after our long de-
tention by the storm, and the favourable wind we now
enjoyed, the advantages of a speculative enquiry, or
the chance of falling upon a useful discovery, oppos-
ed too feeble an argument for a further, and to be
useful, a more considerable detention. On passing
this point, the lake spread like a sea before us. To-
wards the north, we could discern across the
bay ihe distant highlands which border the Cana-
dian shore of the lake, while on the south the moun-
tain chain extending from the head of the river
St. Mary, westward, towered majestically into the
air, and presented a fine contrast to the bound-
less expanse of waters at its base. In coasting
along the shore for fifteen miles we passed the
mouth of Tanquamenon river, with a small island
of the same name lying off its mouth, and proceed-
ed three leagues beyond where we encamped at
eleven o'clock at night, at the mouth of Shelldrake
river, having advanced altogether a distance of thir-
ty-four miles. We generally kept within a mile of
the shore, and often much nearer so that it was con-
stantly in plain sight. The shore of the lake thus
far is sandy, without large pebbles, and with no bluff
rocks at the water's edge, although the highlands a
few miles back, rise to a great height. The growth
of timber is pine, hemlock, (pinus canadensis) oak.
aspen, and birch. At Shelldrake river, we found se-

limackinac,arcompanied us on this expedition. As we rambled
among the sliods or loose stones in search of minerals, Mr. Nor-
burg chanced to find one of eight pounds weight, of a blue colour,
and semi-transparent. This he carried to England, where it pro-
duced in the proportion of sixty pounds of silver to a hundred
weight of ore. It was reposiled in the British Museum.''

Henry's Travels, p. 231.

H5

vero.riodges of Chippeway Indians, who arc drawn to
this spot by the advantages of taking fish at the
mouth of the river ; they appeared friendly — pre-
sented us some dried white fish, and received in re-
turn, some tobacco.

XXVII. Day. — (June 19//V)— At the moment wo
were prepared to embark, a number of northwest
barges, worked with oars, were descried approach-
ing from the west, and we concluded to await their
arrival. It proved to be Mr. Morrison, an agent of
the American Fur Company, v/ith five heavy barges
laden with furs from the Fond du Lac department,
on his annual return to Michilimackinac. From him
We obtained information respecting the best route
of communication from the head waters of Lake
Superior to those of the Mississippi, with some va-
luable topographical memoranda, and inconsequence
did not leave Sheldrake river until eight o'clock.
We had scarcely gone a league when we met eii;h-
teen or twenty canoes of Chlpjexvay Indians on
their way to the Saultde St. Marie and Michilimack-
inac. Always expecting some presents on such oc-
casions, they were anxious for a conference and
made si>2;ns for ns to stop, and some of their canoes
came along side, but sailing with a good wiid. ve
passed on. At the distance of nine miles we turned.
White Fish Point, vihich is a barren peninsula of
sand, stretching a considerable distance into the
lake, with a few aspen trees, and rising in some pla-
ces in naked hills of sand, x'^hichlhe wind is contin-
ually whirling into the air, and depositing in banks
and ridges, like driftiiig snow. Here a considerable
alteration of course brought the wind directly ahead;,

19

146

so that we were compelled to lower sail, and in a
short time, a storm approaching from the west, drove
us fo land. While thus detained an express from the
Sault de St. Marie, overtook us bringing, letters for
the Governor, &c. It was a bark canoe, very light,
and strongly manned, and after tarrying a couple of
hours, was despatched back. In tlie mean while, the
wind had subsided, and after progressing ten miles we
encamped upon the sand. The shore of the lake has
been, thus far, a perfect sand bank, without a pebble
to variegate the beach, but with patches of iron-sandg
(the black paper sand of commerce) abundantly dis-
persed over a broad and level beach. At a short
distance back from the lake, a thin stratum of vege-
table mould has accumulated upon the sand and sus-
tains a forest of pines, spruce, birch, and aspen, but
the humble growth indicates the sterility of the soil.

XXVIII. Day.— (Ane 20th.)— We left our encamp-
ment this morning at half past five, in going twelve
miles, we reached the mouth of Two- Hearted riv-
er, a small stream not navigable with canoes ; and
seven leagues beyond passed the outlet of a ve-
ry extensive marsh, called the Grande Marrais. Im-
mediately west of this commences the Grand Sable,
a lofty ridge of naked sand extending nine nliles
along the shore, and presenting a steep acclivity to-
wards the lake. Its medium height, as estimated by
Dr. Wolcott of the expedition, is three hundred i'eet,
and it presents a novel and interesting appearance
from the lake. I'he views, however, although ge-
nerally commanding, present a great uniformity, and
leave upon the mind a strong impression of bleak-
ness and dtsolation. Even the few bushes and trees

147

which are occasionally seen, serve to increase this
effect by their impoverished growth, while the birds
of prey which we observed hovering around these
bleak sandy heights, could hardly be considered as
ameliorating the dreariness of the prospect. The
bald eagle perched upon a shattered tree half bu-
ried in the sand, looked down upon us in security,
from a height of three hundred feet, while the noisy
raven, and the slow sailing falcon, were perpetually
upon the wing. These biids are generally drawn
toge<^her upon elevated bluffs and barren heights,
that they may more easily discover and be directed
to their prey, either in the adjoining waters or upon
the land, and at the same time they are thus protect-'
ed from the unseen approach of their enemies. But
it may be doubted whether they do not always add
to the forbidding appearances of such scenes as are
naturally sterile, and destitute of vegetation. There
is, however, no scene wholly witiiout attractions,
and by an admirable arrangement in the works of
nature, what is denied to bleak places in vegetable
beauty, is often supplied in the rarity of animated na-
ture, or in the order of the unorganized strata of min-
eral matter ; and it is in the latter respect, that the
Grand Sable affords an interesting object of con-
sideration. It is composed of three layers of sand,
lying horizontally, and distinctly marked as sepa-
rate deposits. The first stratum rising from the wa-
ter, is a light yellow silicious sand, unmixed, an4
about one hundred and fifty feet in depth ; then
succeeds a deposit of the same substance, very much
mixed with pebbles of granite, hornblende, lime-
stone, and quartz ; and this forms the distinguishing
mark of the middle stratum, which may be eighty

148

feet in thickness. The upper stratum is loose yel-
low sand, in every respect similar to the first or low-
er deposit, except that it is continually acted upon
by the winds, and contains imbedded trunks of trees,
some of which remain in the position in which they
grew, but have been buried by drifting sand nearly to
their tops, and thus killed. The depth of this top-stra-
tum may be estimated at sixty or seventy feet. I have
made all these estimates, however, on the assumed al-
titude of the entire bank, as before stated, and although
this may be incorrect, yet the relative thickness of
the three strata, may thus, with tolerable accuracy,
be judged, it is impossible to view these stupen-
dous sand hills, without being at the same time
strongly impressed with the idea that they owe their
arrangement and present order of superposition to
the agency of water, and that this fluid has at some
former period covered their highest tops. Dr. Wol-
cott, who with considerable labour ascended these
sandy eminences, discovered a small lake of pure
water, at no great distance back, and on his return
presented me several mineral specimens, picked up
during the excursion, which bear the appearances of
volcanic origin, together with a couple of specimens
of corralline petrifactions. The specimens which
suggest the idea of volcanic production, appear to be
cranitic ao-greg-ates semi-vitrified, at least, on the sur-
face, which possesses the smoothness and gloss of
common glass. Some of these specimens are
black, without gloss, harsh to the toucli, and vesi-
cular, resembling certain lavas, but all possess a con-
siderable specific gravity, and will sink in water.*

* I have not been able since my return to submit these speci-
mens 10 the examination of any accurate mineralogist, or to uu

M9

These hints may serve to direct the attention of fu-
ture travellers to this subject, which i iiaveonly to
regret other objects of the expedition did not allow
us leisure to investigate.

On passing along the coast of the Grand Sable,
we observed, through the waler which is very trans-
par'''nt, large tabular rocks, in situ, at the bottom of
the lake beneath our canoes, and on encamping a
short distance west of the termination of these sand
banks, at La Pointe La Grand Sab/e, we tbund, appa-
rently, a similar rock, jutting out upon the shore of
the lake, and rising to an elevation of eight or ten
feet above the water. On examination, this prov-
ed to be a variegated sand stone in horizontal strata,
tolerably compact, and consisting of coarse grains
of silicious sand, united apparently by an argilla-
ceous cement. Its colour is white or red, arrang-
ed in spots and stripes No traces of shells or cor-
rallines, could here be detected in the rock. it is
covered by an alluvial deposit of a few feet in depth
bearing cedars, pines, hemlock, and birch, with
some i-eech, oak, and maple interspersed. We en-
camped on a beach of sand, near the entrance of a
small creek, which, from a violent storm that raged
during the night, was called Hurricane creek. 1 nis
storm had threatened us before reaching the land,
and in a short time after, the wind raged with
the utmost violence, and threw the lake into such
disorder, that the water drove into the Governor's

dertake myself any experiment upon their composition, and am not
therefore prepared to decide upon their niineraiogical characler.
There is some reason to conckide, that the g:Ios?y specimens owe
their lustre to the effects of water, although from their indented
surfaccj it could not have been effected by common attrition.

150

iftarque, pitched fifty yards from tlie margrin, and
lashed it down. At the same time the thunder was
very frequent and severe, and when the fury of the
gale abated, a heavy rain drenched every part of our
camp.

XXIX. Day. — {June '2\st.) — The rain still conli-
nued at early day light, and the sea-like swells of
the lake broke furiously upon the shore long after
the wind had entirely ceased* At sun rise the at-
mosphere began to assume its usual serenity, the
clouds broke away rapidly, and before eight o'clock
we had the most delightful weather. It was eleven,
jhowcver, before the lake regained sufficient tran-
quillity to permit us to embark. A perfect calm now
reigned in tiie atniosphere, and we continued the
Yoyage with renovated spirits. On going three
leagues, we reached the commencement of the Pic-
tured Rocks, {La Portaille, of the French Voyn^eurs^)
a series of lofty bluffs, which continue for twelve
miles along the sliore, and present some of the most
sublime antf commanding views in nature. We had
been told, by our Canadian guide, of the variety in
the colour and form of these rocks, but vv^ere w holly
unprepared to encounter the surprising groupes of
overhanging precipices, towering walls, caverns,
water falls, and prostrate ruins, which are here min-
gled in the most wonderful disorder, and burst upon
the view in ever-varying and pleasing succession.
In order to convey any just idea of their magnifi-
cence, it is necessary to premise, that this part oi
the shore consists of a sand stone rock of a
liglit grey colour internally, and deposited stra-
tum super-stratum to the height of three hundred

ir)i

feet, rising in a perpendicular wall from the water,
and extending from four to Cive leagues in length.
This rock is made up of coarse grains of sand,
united by a calcareous cement, and occasionally
imbedding pebbles of quartz and other water-
worn fragments of rocks, but adhering with a
feeble force, and, where exposed to the weather,
easily crushed between the fino:ers. Externally, it
presents a great variety of colour, as black, red,
yellow, brown, and white, particularly along the
jnost permanent parts of the shore, but where mass-
es have newly fallen, its colour is a light grey.* In
no place does the recent fracture disclose any traces
of red, and the variety of outward colouring is ow-
ing partly to mineral waters which appear to
have oozed out of the crevices of the rock, but main-
ly, to the washing down of the banks of coloured
clay from the superincumbent soil. Thus, although
a great variety of surface is presented, there is, in
reality, none in its geological character.f This stu-
pendous wall of rock, exposed to the fury of the

* Adhering too rigidly to the definitions of those geologists who
consider graywacke as consisting " essentially of ^jrains of quartz,
cemented together by indurated clay," I was inclined, at the mo-
ment, to apply the terra to this stratum of rock. But a subsequent,
examination of my specimens proves that it is composed essential-
ly of grains of quartz cemented by a calcareous substarice. It
preserves also the granular structure, friability, and uniformity of
composition of common sand stone, although the white colour and
limey consistence of the cementing matter, gives it, on the first
glance, an appearance foreign to this class of rocks.

t In this respect, (the variety of external colours,) it resembles
the Cal'.co Rock, which I have formerly noticed upon the banks of
White River, in Arkai. saw TervU ory.-^Sec the New-York Monthhj
Journal and Belles Letires Repository.

352

waves, which are driven up by every north wind
across the whole width of Lake Superior, has been
partially prostrated at several points, and worn out
into numerous bays, and irregular indentations. All
these iront upon the lake, in a line of aspiring proJ
montories, which, at a distance, present the terrible
array of dilapidated battlements and desolate tow-
ers.

" Their rocky summits split and rent,

" Form'd turret, domej or battlement,

'• Or seemed faiitasiically set

*' With cupola or minaret,

" Wild crests as pag:od ever decked,

" Or mosque of eastern architect."

In some places the waves have lashed down the
lower strata, while the upper ones hang in a threat-
ening posture over the lake ; in others, extensive
caverns have been worn into the rock, and in this
way rocky blufis, nearly severed from the main, or
left standing upon rude and massy pillars, between,
which barges and canoes might with safety sail. All
that we have read of the natural physiognomy of
the Hebrides — of StafTa, — the Doreholm, and the
romantic isles of the Sicilian coast, is forcibly re-
called on viewing this scene, and it may be doubt-
ed whether, in the whole range of American scen-
ery, there is to be found such an interesting as-
semblage of grand, picturesque, and pleasing ob-
jects. Among many striking features, two attracted
particular admiration, — the Cascade La Portadie,
and the Doric Arch. The cascade is situated about
four miles beyond the commencement of the rar:ge
of bluffs, and in the centre of the most commanding

'^'^ /

M

H

p 3

153

part of it. It consists of a handsome stream, wliich
is precipitated about seventy feet from the bluff into
the lake at one leap. Its form is that of a rain bow, ris-
ing from the lake, to the top of the precipice. We
passed near the point of its fall upon the surface of
the lake, and could have gone, unvretted, between it
and the locks, as it is thrown a considerable distance
into the lake. The Doric Rock, of which a profile is
given on the title page, is an isolated mass of sand
stone, consisting of four natural pillars, supj^orting a
stratum or entablature of the same material, and
presenting the appearance of a work of art. On
the top of this entablature rests a stratum of al-
luvial soil, covered with a handsome growth of pine
and spruce trees, some of which appear to be fifty or
sixty feet in height. To add to the factitious ap-
pearance of the scene, that part of the entablature
included between the pillars is excavated in the
form of a common arch, giving it very much the
appearance of a vaulted passage into the court yard
of some massy pile of antiquated buildings. A lit-
tle to the west of this rock, the Miner^s River enters
the lake by a winding channel, overshadowed with
trees, and intersected by a succession of small ra-
pids.

The annexed view, (Plate IV.) represents a range
of bluffs, immediately west of the Doric Rock, as
viewed from the lake, and embraces some of the
wonderful excavations which diversify this part of
the coast. Grand isle appears in perspective.

In passing these rocks, one of our voyageurs pick-
ed up, upon the shore, and brought to me, a green
translucent pebble, of a spheroidal figure, and two
ounces in weight. A subsequent exarnination of this

20

Id'l

mineral induces me to consider it as Prase, which i^
arranged by Cleaveland, as a sub-species of quartz.
Its colour is a light uniform leek green, and fully
translucent. It has a quartzj hardness, and some-
what of a waxy lustre, but exhibits no appearances
of a crystalline structure, — its spheroidal shape is
owing to attrition. This mineral is stated to owe
its colour to actynolite, or epidote, and to be some-
times employed in jewelry. May not the oxyd of
copper be the colouring ingredient in some cases ?

In landing in one of the coves to examine the geo-
logical appearances, and procure specimens of the
rock, I found, among an infinite variety of pebbles,
which are washed up on the beach, several fragments
of carnelian, and a species of hornstone jasper in al-
ternate bands of red, black, &c. These appearances
created a desire, which it was impossible, however,
to satisfy, of making a more minute examination of
the mineralogy of the coast. It is considered a dan-
gerous pass when there is any wind on the lake, as
there are very few places where a lariding can be
effected. The day, however, notwithstanding the
boisterous weather of the morning, proved calm and
pleasant, and we proceeded two leagues beyond the
termination of this picturesque shore, and encamp-
ed on Grand Island, in a large, deep, and beautiful
bay, completely land-locked. Here we found a vil-
lage of Chippeway Indians, who, as soon as we land-
ed, came from their lodges to bid us welcome. They
manifesed the most friendly disposition towards the
party, and towards the United States ; and when
they were told of our objects in visiting their
country, appeared highly pleased. The prompti-
tude with which they offered the pipe of peace, left

K)5

no doubt of their sincerity, and their subsequent
conduct evinced that they felt themselves flatter-
ed by our visit. In the evening they assembled
in our camp, to shew their skill in dancing, up-
on which they all {,>ride themselves, and spent some-
time in this amusement, which is also done as a
jnark of respect. 5n t'i.ese testive feats, they were
accompanied by their own music, consisting of a kind
of tambarine, and a hollow gourd, filled with peb-
bles, while one of the number beat time upon a
stick, and all joined in the Indian chant. There is
something animating in the Indian chorus, and at
the same time, it has an air of melancholy, but cer-
tainly nothing can be more monotonous, or farther
removed from our ideas of music. These ceremo-
nies lasted sometime, and were rather an annoyance
to the party, to whom they presented nothing novel,
and as is usual, were only a prelude to the custom-
ary presents of whiskey and tobacco. We found
these Indians very poor, both as to clothing and
provisions, but were struck with their manly
figure and beautiful proportions. During the eve-
ning several speeches were addressed to the Go-
vernor, in the course of which we were told that
they had lately returned from a war excursion
against the Sioux, in which they had lost a number
of warriors, but that they had fallen like brave men,
and were worthy of being called Chippeways. It
appears that the Indians of Grand Island had been
reproached by the northern bands of the tribe for
not taking a more active part in the war which has
been so long waged between the Chippeways and
the Sioux. To wipe off this stain, they determined to
make an irruption into the Sioux country, without

156

giving notice to any other part of the tribe, that they
might claim the exclusive merit of their warlike
deeds. Accordingly, a party of thirteen warriors
proceeded, by the most unfrequented paths, into the
midst of the Sioux territories, without meeting with
any opposition, or exciting any premature alarm.
Here, however, at a time when they did not expect
it, they suddenly encountered a large war party of
their enemies, amounting to ten times their number.
As a negotiation of peace had been commenced be-
tween the two tribes, the Sioux w^ere disposed to re-*
ceive them as friends, and were very much surprised
to hear them declare that they had left their homes
on a war excursion, — that they had come a great way
to meet them,— that they wanted to test their cou-
rage,— and that they rejoiced there was now an op«
portunity presented. The Sioux replied that they
thought the Chippeways were tired of a long war,
in which so much blood had been spilt, — that they
were too few in number to hope for any success,
and had better retire in peace to their own ter-
ritories, as their destruction was otherwise inevi-
table. The Chippeways were, however, determine
ed in their hostility, and had prepared themselves to
die, and to sell their lives at the dearest rate, and
the next morning attacked the Sioux in their camp.
In a short time they were driven back to the place
where they had determined to make a final stand,
and which they had previously fortified by digging
two large holes or intrenchments in the ground,
capable of atTording them a partial shelter. Into
these intrenchments they retired, and maintained
the unequal contest until they had expended their
ammunition, and killed more than double their

157

number, when the Sioux surrounded their intrench-
ments, and dispatched the survivors with their
tomahawks. Of the number that retired into these
holes, not one escaped, but they kept up a destructive
fire upon their enemies, while their ammunition last-
ed, for they were protected during the time they re-
tired to reload their jjuns. To transmit the fame of
this exploit to their nation, they had appointed the
youngest warrior of their number to watch on an
adjoining hill- and when their fate was terminated, to
carry the nev.s to their friends. By this it seems
that they had previously determii'cd to die in their
intrenchments. This messenger had not been long
returned, when we reached Grand Island, where he
sunsc the exploits of his departed friends, lie v.as
a tall and beautiful youth, with a manly countenance,
expressive eyes, and formed with the most perfect
symmetry, — and among all the tribes of Indiajis
whom I have visited, 1 never felt, for any individual,
such a mingled feeHng of interest and admiration.

XXX. Day. — (^June 22d,) — We embarked at six
o'clock in the morning, the weather clear and calm.
On coming out of the bay of Grand fsland, we pass-
ed a small wooded island on the right, and on turn-
ing a point of land, traversed a bay of four leaguos
across, in the centre of which is situated the isle aux
Trains, and opposite to it, in the extremity of the bay,
the River aux Trains discharges into the lake.
On turning the next point, we put into a little hay
and entered the mouth of l^aughing Fish river, which
is twenty yards wide, deep, — with reddish water,
and a sandy shore. Near it are several large
swamps, which maintain a connexion with Lake

158

Superior, throU2;h this little river, and a singular
ebbing and flowing of its tide, is produced by the
swells of the lake. This flux and reflux, was observ-
ed three times during our stay, a space of thirty or
forty minutes. On leaving this we turned a promi-
nent point of land, and steered N. 70° W. across a
large bay in which are successively discharged Cho-
colate, Dead,* andPresque Isle rivers, all of which lay
to the left of our track, aad encamped on a point of
land, which, from the first appearance of that rock, I
shall denominate Granite Point. The distance across
this bay, in a direct line, is eighteen miles, but by
following the indentations of the shore, which is the
usual route, it is fifty-one. The shore of the lake
continues rocky from Grand Isle, to near Laughing
Fish river, which is bordered by sandy plains. The
rocks are red sand stone ; on Isle aux Trains they
dip towards the northeast. The forest trees are
chiefly pine, hemlock, spruce, and birch. On reach-
ing Granite Point a new scene presents itself. Here
a bluff" of granite rising out of the lake to a height of
two hundred feet, is connected to the shore by a
neck of land consisting of red and grey sand stone, in
horizontal layers. This granite is made up of red
feldspar, quartz, and a little mica, and very much mix-
ed with hornblende. It lies in a confused bed, pre-
senting perpendicular fissures, and traversed by re-
gular veins of greenstone trap. These veins of green-
stone vary from two to thirty feet in width, and are
disposed to break in irregular columnar fragments,
resembling, in some degree, the columns of true
basalt. The sand stone laps upon the granite, and
fits into its irregular indentations in a manner that

* At the mouth of tf.is rivei , fron Pyrites of a brass yellow colour.
;^nd metalic brilliancy, is found.

TOB, LENOX AND

,,^jEN fcuivCatiO.';;

169

shews it to have assumed that position subsequently
to the upheaving of the granite. Its horizontahty
is perfectly preserved even to the immediate point
of contact, which is laid bare to the view. A
mutual decomposition for a couple of inches, into
each rock has taken place. Dipping under the sand
stone, the granite again rises on the contiguous coast
in high, rough, and broken hills. All this is hand-
somely disclosed by a natural transverse section of
the country, upon the rocky shore of the lake, and
the peninsula, connecting it with Granite Point.
This will give to the annexed view, (Plate V.) a va-
lue which geological sections, and suppositional
charts, it must be conceded, too often lack. The
entire width of the point may be estimated at half a
mile, and that of the neck of land connecting it with
the shore at two hm dred yards. A sandy alluvion
rests upon the whole, covered with yellow pine,
{pinus resinosa.) As to the geological age of the sand
stone, I possess no means of forming a decisive
opinion. It consists of grains of quartz or sand, unit-
ed by a calcareous cement, and coloured by the
red oxyd of iron. Its colour is a brick red, and it
possesses the compactness and grain of freestone.
In some places it imbeds pebbles of quartz ot the
size of a pigeon's egg, together with rounded masses
of hornblende and other rocks, and it then resem-
bles the pudding stone. It has no imbedded re-
lics of the animal or vegetable kingdom, so far as
observed, but this is not always conclusive of the
age of a rock viewed at a given point, for it is known
that these relics are never uniformly dibhibuted
throughout the substance of rocks, even of the new-

160

est formations. Its position would indicate a near
alliance to the " old red satid stone." Werner has
consklered this rock in all situations as secondary.
Bakewell places it in the class of transition rocks, in
which he is followed by McClure and by Eaton. 1
am not prepared to decide upon a point upon which
my opportunitie>^ of observation have as yet been lim-
ited, and there appears to he something so objectional
in the dogmatism with which these things are usually
stated, that I shall content myself, in the present in-
stance, with the bare recital of the facts above enu^
merated.

XXXI. Day.— (/?mc 23r7.) — The morning was cloudy
and hazy, but we did not sutfer these appearances
to deter us from quitting our encampment at an ear-
ly hour. In a few moments after getting under way,
a fair breeze arose, and we proceeded to the next
prominent point, a distance of five leagues, in three
hours. Here we again saw granite rock overlayed
by sand stone. The wind now [lagging, we went un-
der oars to the mouth of Huron river, a distance of
eleven leagues, where we encamped at four in the
afternoon, in consequence of rain, in the course of
the day, we have successively jjassed the Garlic, St.
John's, Salmon Trout, and Pine rivers, all streams
of secondary magnitude, and originating in highlands
at no great distance from the lake. These high-
lands which have been visible with the naked eye,ap-
pear from inspection with a glass, to consist of rug-
ged peaks of granite. Off the Huron nver, at the dis-
tance of five or six miles in the lake, lie the pictur-
esque cluster of Huron Islands. They appear to be
high, rocky, and barren, with some trees. Among the

161

objects surrounding our encampment, an Indian
grave, near the mouth of the Huron river, excited
our curiosity- It was paled in with pine saplings,
sharpened at the top, and regularly inclosing it in
the form of a parrallelogram. A covering of bark
bent over small poles in the form of a roof, secured
the grave from the effecis of the weather, and a
blazed stake at one end, denoted the head. Be-
tween this stake and the grave, a smoothly cut piece
of cedar wood with several Indian devices, served
the purposes of a monumental record, upon which
the figure of a bear denoted either the name of the
deceased chief, or the tribe to which he belonged.
Seven red marks were interpreted to signify that he
had been seven times in battle. Other marks were not
understood. It is probable, however, that they were
commemorative of some of the most striking events
of his life, which we are led to conclude, from these
extraordinary marks of respect, had been devoted
to the service of his tribe, or distinguished for some
extraordinary achievements in hunting. This grave
is situated on a sandy plain, which extends for many
miles to the west of the Huron, and is covered prin-
cipally with a growth of yellow pine. Among the
shrubs and plants, the pyrola rotundifolia, or com-
mon winter green, is very abundant, and we here first
noticed a creeping plant called kinni-kiriick by the
Indians, which is used as a substitute for tobacco.
This plant appears to have escaped the notice of
the indefatigable Pursh, nor do I find any description
of it in Micheaux, or Eaton. It is a creeping ever-
green with an ovate leaf, of a deep green colour, and
velvet-like appearance, and is common to sandy
soils, 1 suspect it to be a new variety of chimaphi]a.

21

162

The Indians prepare it by drying the leaf o?er*^^
moderate fire, and bruising it between the fingers so
that it. in some degree, resembles cut tobacco. In
this state it is smoked, and is very mild and pleas-
ant. They, however, prefer mixing it with a portion
of the common tobacco, {nicottana tabacum) or per-
haps it is done with a view to economy. As the kin-
iiikinick only flourishes on sandy grounds, it is not
always to be procured, in which case they employ
other substances, the most common of which is the
bark scraped off the small red twigs of the acer spi-
catum, or maple bush. Certain species of willows
are also resorted to.

XXXII. Day. — (June 24/A.) — From Huron river it
is eighteen miles to Keweena Point, which extend&
forty five miles into the lake, and is by far the usost
striking feature in the topography of the southern
shore of Lake Superior. It has sometimes been con-
founded by geographers and travellers with PointChe-
goimegon, which is a hundred and thirty miles further
west, and the latter name loosely applied to either
Point. Among those who have fallen into this er-
ror is Carver, who describes the copper mine, or
Ontonagon river, as falling into the lake a hundred
miles west of Point Chegoimegon, (Carver's Travels
p. 67.) w hereas it is found to be a little more than
half that distance, west of Keweena. Henry, and
McKenzie, have both drawn the proper distinction.
In coasting around this point it is estimated to be
ninety miles, but canoes shorten the journey by as-
cending the Portage river, which nearly insulates
the point from the main shore, and make a portage
of less than a mile into the lake west of the Point. To

1G3

the east of this point there is a large bay twelve miles
wide hy twenty in length, called Keweena bay, which
it is necessary to cross in order to reach the Port-
age river, l^he route from Huron river, is first six
miles west to Point Abbaye. which is the eastern cape
of Keweena bay, then we coast three leagues up the
eastern shore, and make a traverse of twelve miles
to the mouth of Portage river. This is often a dan-
gerous passage when the weather is not perfectly
settled, and was found so in the present instance.
On turning point Abbaye we found a fresh breeze
blowing directly ahead, but not apprehending any
increase, and anxious to make as little delay as pos-
sible, we progressed up the bay the usu^l distance,
and commenced the traverse without hesitation.
When, however, only a league from land, the wind
had increased to a strong breeze, which raised a con-
siderable swell, and before we were half way across,
the bay presen ted a sheet of loam, and our canoes were
tossed about w ith scarcely the power of controlling
them. A perfect gale prevailed, and every moment
seemed to add to its \ iolence. The swells broke fre-
quently across our canoes, so that one hand was con-
stantly necessary to bail it out, and we expected them
to be broke in two at every succeeding swell. In
this dilemma it appeared almost equally hazardous
to turn back, or to progress, we were about an equal
distance from either shore, with the wind blowing
directly ahead ; and the conductors of the different
canoes were left to use their own discretion. Three,
out of five canoes turned back, and reached the
shore in safety, with some injury to the canoes. The
other two, consisting of the Governor's and that uri=

164

der the command of Lieutenant Mackay, to which I
■was attached, after an exertion which exhausted the
strength of every person on board, reached the
mouth of Portage river, and encamped upon the
beach before sun down. Distance 30 miles.

XXXIII. Day.— (June 25fh.)—The canoes w^hich
were driven back by the winds yesterday, joined us
this morning at seven o'clock, when we commenced
the ascent of the Portage river. This is a stream of
50 yards wide, with a good depth of water. At the
distance of six miles it expands into a lake which is
twelve miles long, and from two to four in width,
narrowing to about half a mile towards its head.
Here a small stream enters which is just wide enough
to admit a canoe to be worked with paddles. It is
very serpentine in its course, and overhung with al-
ders and shrubbery, with fallen trees in the channel,
so that the ascent is attended with some difficulty.
This stream is ascended six miles to its source in a
bog meadow, during the latter part of which the ca-
noes are dragged along through mud and water in a
channel which is only wide enough for that purpose,
and appears to have been partly formed by the voy-
ageurs of former days. From this to the lake, there
is a portage of two thousand yards which is passed
at two Pauses,* the first of w Inch is hwampy, and the

* A Pause (pronounced pozp") is a resting; place for the voya-
geurs and is computed to be half a raile, but this depends some-
what upon local circumstances. If the country is very swampy or
hilly, the pause is much shorter, and over a fine level country it is
often three fourths of a mile. These stopping places are, however,
regularly marked upon all the travelled portages so that they are
always spoken of in the colloquial language of the region, as car-
rying places of one, two, or more pauses. ^|iles are wholly out of

165

other a dry sandy soil covered with tall pines. We
reached the lake at an early hour in the afternoon,
and formed our encampment upon the gravelly
shore. The voyageurs and soldiers were employed
in carrying baggage until dark, but did not complete
the labour.

XXXIV. Day. --(June 26//iO— The forenoon of this
day was occupied in carrying the remainder of the
baggage and canoes across the portage. In the af-
ternoon a head wind prevented our embarkation.
While we were sitting upon a bank of clean pebbles
upon the shore, at dnmer, and admiring the variety
of beautiful water-worn pebbles, I picked up a frag-
ment of beautiful carnelian, and this gave the hint
for making a search, in which a great nuniber were
afterwards found by different individuals of the par-
ty. I also discovered, while loitering along the shore,
a mass of native copper, of nearly two pounds weight,
attached to a water worn mass of serpentine rock,
and a number of smaller pieces. Indeed grains of
copper disseminated through pebbles of serpentine
rock, are very common at this place, but this metal
has not been observed in association with any other
species of rock. Radiated zeolite, crystallized
quartz, chalcedony, prase, jasper, opal, agate, and
eardonyx, are also among the minerals picked up
along this part of the shore. Of the specimens of
carnelian, I procured several imbedded in rolled
pebbles of amygdaloid, and in one instance, observ-
ed this mineral imbedded in a large detached mass

the question. Distances are altogether reckoned by leagues or
pauses. The pauses are marked upon the carrying paths by
Bttle circular greens, where the voyageurs set down their packs.

166

of hornblende rock. All the rock along this shore,
however, Avhich was noticed, in situ, is either a red,
grey, or variegated sand stone, which appears to be
referable to one formation, colour being the only
character in which any difference could be perceiv-
ed. The very interesting character of the mineral-
ogy at this place arrested the attention of several of
our party, who had before felt no interest in this
study, and from the spirit of imitation, several of the
soldiers and voyageurs also turned collectors of spe-
cimens. But a greater novelty ensued, the Indians
attached to the expedition, on being shewn the sub-
stances we were anxious to procure, also undertook
the search, and with such good success, that I am in-
debted to them for some of the finest specimens I
have from that locality. This is not the first attention
they had manifested to the subject, for on a former
occasion they assisted me in chizzeling organic relics
from the rock, and seemed to take a delight in being
serviceable in that way, although unable to compre-
hend the object of these collections. It was impos-
sible to find corresponding words in their language
to signify the benefit to be derived from geological
studies, although they were anxious to be informed,
and made repeated enquiries There is a general
impression among the Indians that we possess the
skill of turning all minerals either into money or me-
dicine. My attention to this subject had struck
them upon the third or fourth day after our depart-
ure from Detroit, when they bestowed upon me a
name, at least characteristic of my situation in the
expedition.*

* Paw-gwa-le-caw-e-ga. Tlie destroyer of rocks, or he who
employs himself among the rocks. It may be considered as sy-
nonymous with the word " Mineralogist."

167

XXXV. Day.— ^wwfi 21th)— V^Q, left the head of
Keweena Portage at half past four in the morning,
and proceeding with a favourable wind, entered the
mouth of the river Ontonagon, at half pa&t three in
the afternoon. The distance is fifty-one miles, which
gives an average rate of travelling of five miles per
hour. In the intermediate space, we successively
passed the Little Salmon Trout and Graverod's ri-
vers,— La Riviere au Mesiere, and Firesteel river,
all streams of secondary size, and not capable of
being ascended any considerable distance with ca-
noes. The shore is generally sandy alluvion, upon
which pines, spruce, and hemlock predominate. At
a distance back a ridge of highlands is visible. The
entire distance from the Sault de St. Marie, is one
hundred and eight leagues, which we have been ten
days occupied in travelling, including a detention of
three. We have, therefore, made an average pro-
gress of forty six miles per day, a speed, which our
voy^geurs tell us, is seldom equalled in passing over
the same route. During this time, we have had
rain, with violent wind, three days, — clear, with
moderate wind, five days, — and variable, (calm,
misty, cloudy, windy. > three days. 1 he highest de-
gree of heat during the same period, has been SS'',
and the mean temperature, from sun rise to sun set,
66°.* The transitions of temperature have often
been sudden, and the heat, during th^ middle of the
day, (from eleven to four)gener;dlv severe, and soine-
times almost insupportable Dense fogs have pre-
vailed during the morning, and in one or two in-
stances, mists have been observed during the day.

* See the Meteorological Table on the succeeding page.

1S8

Gusts of wind, arising witli a momentary warning,
liave olten driven us hastily ashore ; and the wholf^

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169

f^oute may be characterized as stormy, and yet we
are told this i& one of the most favourable months
for performinij; the journey. In the autumn it is sel-
dom attempted. The winds, which generally pre-
vail from the northwest, expose the southern shore
to the fury of continual storms. The Canadian shore
is more pacific, being sheltered by its elevation, and
the voyage on that side is, at all seasons, less liable
to accidents and delays. The following table of
distances may be found useful to future travellers.
It is compiled from the estimates of the voyageurs
and traders, as generally agreed upon, but i have
reduced their mode of reckoning by French leagues,
into miles, and introduced some corrections that ap-
peared necessary.

w^

Of the Stationary Distances between MichilimacJcinac and the
River Ontonagon.

Miles. Tot. Miles.
From Michilimackinac to Detour,
Thence to the Sault de St. Marie,
Point aux Pins,

Poidt Iroquois, at the entrance into Lake Superior,
Toiiquainenon River,
Shelldrake River,
White Fish Point,
Two-Hearted River,
Grande Marr^is, and commencement of Grande

Sables,
La Point la Grande Sables,
Pictured Rocks, (La Portaille,)
Doric Rock, and Miner's River,
Grande Island, -

River aux Trains,
Isle aux Trains,
Laughing-Fish River,

22

40

45

85

6

91

9

100

15

115

9

124

9

133

24

157

21

178

9

187

12

J 99

6

205

12

217

9

226

3

229

6

235"

170

Chopolate River,

Dead River, (In Presque Isle Bay,J

Granite Point,

Garlic River,

St. John's River, -

Salmon-Trout, or Burnt River,

Pine River,

Huron River- (Huron Islands lie off this River,)

Point Abbaye, (east Cape of Kevveena Bay,) -

Mouth of Portag:e River,

Head of Portage River, (through Kevveena Lake,)

Lake Superior, at the head of the Portage,

Little Salmon-Trout River,

Graverod's River, (small, with flat rocks at its mouth,) 6

Rlvi6re au Misiere,

Firesteel River,

Ontonagon, or, Copper Mine River,

Miles.

15

Tot. Miles.
250

6

256

6

262

9
15

271
286

12

293

6

304

9

313

6

319

21

340

24

364

1

365

9

374

,,)6

380

12

392

18

410

6

416

CHAP. Vf.

VISIT TO THE COPPER MIJ^ES.

XXXV. Day.— (/m«c 2lth.)

J. HE river Ontonagon, (or 'Tenaugon, as it is fre-
quently pronounced,) enters the lake in north latitude
46° 52' 2", as determined by Capt. Douglass, and is
one of the largestof thirty rivers vvhichare tributary to
Lake Superior on its southern shore. It is estimated
to be a hundred and twenty miles long, and has a
width of two hundred yards, with eight feet depth
at its mouth. Indians say they generally walk to its
head in three or four days, but on account of nume-
rous rapids, it is only ascended in canoes aboiit
thirty-six miles, and a portage then made to its
source, which is in a small lake called Vieux Desert,
This lake has also an outlet into the Menomonie
river of Green Bay. and another into the Chippeway
river of the Mississippi, by means of which the coun-
try is traversed in canoes by the traders and Indians.
The lands along thi > river a^e gejierally rough and
mountainous, u!itil within three or four leagues of
its mouth. Its waters* have a reddish colour, like
those of the Arkansas, and are moderately turbid j
among its forest trees pine and hemlock predomi-
nate, but its most remarkable character is the cop-
per, which is found along its banks. This has been

172

known from the earliest times, and is noticed by all
the travellers of the region. La Hontan, Charle-
voix, Henry, Carver, and McKenzie, have success-
ively published accounts of it, which have served at
various periods, to arrest the public attention, and
to confer a notoriety upon the country, which it had
otherwise certainly lacked. But amid a great ma-
ny surmises respecting the extent of the mines, very
little has been with certainty known. To ascertain
how far these accounts are founded in truth, and to
examine the mineralogy of the adjacent region, was
among the primary objects of the present expedition,
and on reaching the mouth of the river, the Govern-
or determined to loos? no time in exploring it. It
was past three o'clock in Hie afternoon, when we
entered the mouth of the river. The expedition was
immediately encamped, and Indian guides procured,
at the neighbouring village, and at six o'clock, we pro-
ceeded in two light canoes up the river, leaving the
greater part of our force encamped at the mouth.
Our party in this excursion, consisted of Gov. Cass, Dr.
Wolcott,Capt. Douglass, Lieutenant Mackay, Mr. Do-
ty, and myself, with a sufficient number of engages to
conduct our canoes, and four Chippeway guides.
A broad river, with a gentle current,— winding
course, and heavy wooded banks, with the dark green
foliage overshadowing the water, rendered the first
part of the tour delightful. At the distance of four
miles we reached a Sturgeon fishery, which the In-
dians have established in the river by means of a
wier extending from bank to bank. This wier is
constructed of saplings and small trees, sharpened
and drove into the clayey bottom of the river, with
an inclination down stream, and supported by

173

crotched stakes bracing against the current. Against
the sides of these inchned stakes, long poles are
placed horizontally, and secured hy hickory withes,
in such a manner as to afford the Indians a passage
from one end to the other, and at the same time al-
low them to sit and fish upon any part of it. The
sturgeon are caught with an iron hook, fixed at the
end of a long slender pole, which the Indian, setting
on the wier holds to the bottom of the river, and
when he feels the fish pressing against the slender
pole, jerks it up with a sudden and very dexterous
motion, and seldom fails to bring up the sturgeon.
On one side of the wier, an opening is left for the fish
to pass up, which they do at this season in vast num-
bers, but in their descent they are hurried by the
current against the hooks of the savages, who are
thickly planted on every part of the wier. The num-
ber of sturgeon caught at this place is astonishing,
and the Indians rely almost entirely upon this fishery
for a subsistence. What is not wanted for iaimediate
consumption, is cut into thin slices and dried or
smoked. Canoes pass up through the opening left
for the sturgeon. Five or six Indians were employ-
ed in fishing at the time we passed through, and we
stopped some time to observe the sport, and had the
satisfaction of seeing several brought up, ono of
which was presented to us. The sturgeon are ge-
nerally from two feet to four feet in length, and these
may be considered as the minimum and maximum
size, as they are seldom seen smaller than the for-
mer, or larger than the latter. They appear to me
to be of tlie same species as the small sharp nosed
sturgeon of the Hudson ; the acipenser oxyrinchus of
MitchiU. This fishery is of great importance to the

174

Indians of the region, and ajipears to have been
known to them from the earhest times, and has been
constantly resorted to without any apparent diminu-
tion in the quantity taken. Henry says in 1765, " that '
a months subsistence for a regiment, could have been
taken in a fejv hours time." There is a rapid at
the spot fixed upon for the fishery, so that the water
is not over four feet deep. We encamped two miles
above on a sand bar. The musquitoes here gave
us great annoyance.

XXXVr. Day.— {Jime 28//t.)--We embarked at
four o'clock in the morning. The river is bordered
with a rich alluvion covered with a heavy forest of
maple, elm, and walnut, and with a luxuriant growth
of vines and underbrush. At the distance often or
twelve miles from the lake, a chain of highlands
shuts in upon each side of the river, cutting off the
bottom lands of the lake, and increasing in altitude
as we ascend. Here also the river becomes nar-
rower and has many rapids. At seven o'clock our
guides stopped the canoes, and told us that the riv-
er above that place, had a great many bad rapids
which it w ould be very difficult to ascend with all
the men in the canoes, and that by landing there, we
might proceed by a near route through the woods,
and reach the mines much sooner than the canoes
could by water. Accordingly eight of the party, in-
cluding myself, determined to proceed that waj,
while the Governor with the canoes, now lightened of
half their burden, went up the river to meet us at the
mines. We were accompanied by two Indians as
guides, who led us over lofty ridges, gulfs, and ra-
vines, covered with brush or shattered rocks, for a

175

distance of fifteen miles, when we fell into an Indian
path leading to the copper. Here our guides sat
down to await the arrival of the Governor and party,
who were to pass that way. VVe had thus far fol-
lowed them with incredible fatigue, owing to the
swiftness of their travelling, the roughness of the
way, and the extreme heat of the weather.

*' Straitiing each sinew to ascend,

" Foot, hand, and knee, their aid mnst lend ;

" Now to the oak's warp'd roots we clin^,

" Now trust our weigcht to the curl'd vine's string,

" Then Hke the wild goat nnisl we dare

'' An unsupported leap in air." — Scott.

It was one o'clock in the afternoon when we arrived
at this path, and the thermometer stood at 90° under
the dark shade of the forest. We had not been seat-
ed a great while, when the other party approached,
and we continued our way to the mines ; but the Gov-
ernor was so much exhausted by clambering up the
hills, which skirt ihe river, that he was compelled
to return to the canoes. We found the remainder of
the way, (about six miles,) no less sterile, mountain-
ous, or fatiguing ; and reached the great mass of
co[)per, the chief object of our excursion, at an early
hour in the afternoon. It lies on the edge of the riv-
er directly opposite an island, and at the foot a lofty
clay bluff, the face of which appears, at a former pe-
riod, to have slipped into the river, carrying with
it detached blocks and rounded masses of granite,
hornblende, and other rock, and with them, the mass
of copper in question. The first feeling was that of
disappointment. It has been greatly overrated by
former travellers, both as to size and mineralogical
character, but is nevertheless, a remarkable mass

176

of copper, and well worthy a visit from the traveller
who is passing through the region. " The copper,
\vhich is in a pure and malleable state, lies in con-
nexion with a body of serpentine rock, the face of
which it almost completely overlays, and is also dis-
seminated in masses, and grains, throughout the sub-
stance of the rock. The surface of the metal, unlike
most oxydable metals, which have suffered a long
exposure to the atmosphere, presents a metallic bril-
liancy ; wliich is attributable either to an alloy of
the precious metals, or to the action of the river,
which during its semi-annual floods, carries down
large quantities of sand and other alluvial matter,
that may serve to abrade its surface, and keep it
bright. The shape of the rock is very irregular —
its greatest length is three feet eight inches — its
greatest breadth three feet four inches, and it may
altogether contain eleven cubic icct. In size, it con-
siderably exceeds the great mass of native iron found
some years ago upon the banks of Red River, in
Louisiana, and now deposited among the collections
of the New- York Historical Society,* but on account
of the admixture of rocky matter, is inferior in weight.
Henry, who visited it in 1766, estimates its weight at
five tons ; but after examining it with scrupulous at-
tention, I do not think the weight of metallic copper
in the rock exceeds hveniy-two hundred pounds. The
quantity may, however, have been much diminished
since its first discovery, and the marks of chisels and
axes upon it, with the broken tools lying around,
prove that portions have been cut off, and carried
away. The author just quoted observes, 'that such
was its pure and malleable state that with an axe he

* See Bruce's Mineralosrical Journal

17?

was able to cut oflf a portion weighing a hundred
pounds." Notwithstanding this reduction it may
still be considered one of the largest and most re-
markable bodies of native copper upon the globe,
and is, so far as my reading extends, only exceeded
by a specimen found in a valley in Brazil, weighing
21)66 Portuguese pounds.* Viewed merely as a sub-
ject for scientific speculation, it presents the most
interesting considerations and must be regarded by
the geologist as aflbrding illustrative proofs of an
important character. Its connexion with a rock
which is foreign to the immediate section of country
where it lies, indicates a removal from its original
bed, while the intimate connexion of the metal and
matrix, and the complete envelopement of individual
masses of the copper by the rock, point to a common
and contemporaneous origin, whether that be refer-
able to the agency of caloric or water. This conclu-
■ion admits of an obvious and important application
to the extensive strata of serpentine, and other mag-
nesian rocks, found in various parts of the globe 1' "t

The accompanying view, (Plate VI,) is taken
from a point below the mass of copper, looking up
the river On each side appear a lofty range of earthy
bluffs, which have caved into the river, throwing
down their trees and imbedded rocks into heaps of
ruins along the margin of the stream, and exposing
their bare surfaces to view. These bluffs may be
considered a hundred and fifty feet in perpendicu-
lar height, and are capped by a forest of pine,
hemlock, cedar, and oak. On the right hand,

* Philips* Mineralogy.

t Extract from my Report to the Secretary at War, on the cop»
per mines of Lake Superior. See the American Journal of Science
and the Arts, Edited by Professor Silliman. H. JR. S.

23

178

partly immersed in water, reposes the copper
rock ; on the left the little island of cedars divide*
the river into two channels, and the small depth and
rapidity of the water is shewn by the innumerable
rocks which project above its surface, from shore to
shore. The masses of fallen earth, — the blasted trees,'
which either lie prostrate at the foot of the bluffs,
or hang in a threatening posture above, — the eleva-
tion of the banks, — the rapidity and noise of the
stream, present such a mixed character of wild-
ness, ruin, and sterility, as to render it one of the
most rugged views in nature.

" It seeni'd the mountain, rent and riveiT)

" A channel for the stream had given ;

" So high the cliff of sandstone gray,

" Hung beetling o'er the torrents way,

" Where he who winds 'twixt rock and wave-,

" May hear the headlong torrent rave ;

♦' May view her chafe her waves to spray,

" O'er every rock that bars her way,

" Till foam globes o'er her eddies glidie,

" Thick as the schemes of human pride

'•' That down life's current drive amain,

*•' As frail, as frothy, and as vain.'* Scott.

One cannot help fancying that he has gone to the
ends of the earth, and beyond the boundaries ap-
pointed for the residence of man. Every object tells
us that it is a region alike unfavourable to the pro-
ductions of the animal and vegetable kmgdom ; and
we shudder in casting our eyes over the frightful
wreck of trees, and the confused groups of falling-in
banks and shattered stones. Yet we have only to
ascend these bluffs to behold hills more rugged and
elevated ; and dark hemlock forests, and yawning^
gulfs more dreary, and more forbidding to the eye.
Such is the frightful region through which, for a

179

distance of twenty miles, we followed our Indian
guides to reach this unfrequented spot, in which
there is nothing to compensate the toil of the jour-
ney but its geological character, and rnireral pro-
ductions.. Indeed these are traits which are gene-
rally found to increase in interest, in proportion to
the increased sterility of the soil, and the impover-
ished growth of vegetable life. And here also the
effect of chmate upon the productions of nature, pre-
sents a remarkable exception. Trees and plants
of particular species, are only found to vegetate
in certain latitudes, and to be confined to particular
soils, whose chemical constituents are congenial to
their growth. Every modification of climate has its
peculiar plants and predominating trees. Animals
also, particularly the herbiferous species, have, in
all countries, more or less confined themselves with-
in the cycle of certain species of vegetable pro-
ductions,— to the grasses and buds of trees to which
they are particularly attached, — or, they are im-
pelled in the search of herbs necessary to their
health and vigour. But the inorganic masses of the
earth are confined to no particular latitudes, and
are uniform in their composition. The granites,
the limestones, the spars, and the metals, exhibit
the same characters, whether picked up with-
in the arctic circle, or under the torrid zone. The
mineralogist discovers the same external signs and
appearances, and the chemist finds the same mine-
ral constituents combined in the same propor-
tions. It has, indeed, been asserted, that metals
are confined to particular latitudes, — that gold
and silver, and precious stones, are productions pe-
culiar to the southern hemisphere ; but there is

180

nothing in the theories of the formation of mine-
ral strata, the laws of crystallization, or in the
known influence of climates upon mineral bodies,
to justify such a conclusion ; — there is no reason
that can be drawn from philosophical investigations
to prove that these substances may not be abundant-
ly found in the climates of the north, even upon the
banks of the frozen ocean. The fact that these produc-
tions are more abundantly found within the higher la-
titudes, does not appear capable of explanation, on a
supposed efTect of climate, but is probably wholly
independent of that circumstance. On the contrary,
there is reason to presume that the precious metals
may be found in the northern regions of the Ameri-
can continent. Nothing appears more improbable
than that the veins of silver ore, which are so abun-
dant in Mexico, and ihe province of Texas, are
checked in their progress northward into Arkansaw
and Missouri, by the effect of climate. This metal
is known to be found in association only with certain
limestones, schists, and other rocks, and where these
cease, is in vain to be sought. Other metals and
minerals have their particular associations, serving
as a geognostic matrix, and hence rock strata may be
considered as indexes to particular metals, mineralsj
and ores; and the geologist is thus enabled to predict,
with considerable certainty, from the examination
of the exterior of a country, whether it is metallife-
rous, or not. Until such examinations are made,
we must be permitted to say, that there does not ap-
pear any thing to forbid the hope of finding the pre-
cious metals in the regions of the northwest, while
there are several facts to prove that it is highly pro-
bable, it is here that t^ie stinted growth of vegeta-

181

iioii, and the rocky and elevated nature of the coub-
try. leads us to look for those treasures in the min^^ral
kinojdom which nature ha.^ denied in soil and cli-
mate. In various places have lead, iron, and cop-
per already been discovered, and the beauty of the
carnelian, the agates, and the chalcedonies, picked
up alonjr the shores of Lake Superior, prove that
the hardy regions of the north are not unfavourable
to the production af mineral gems. But it is chiefly^
so far as actually known, in the abundance of copper
that the mineralogy of this region claims particular
attention, and the more so, as it is found in the na-
tive form. Pieces of this metal have been discover-
ed in various parts of the region, from the banks of
Muddy river, in Illinois, to the mouth of the Cop-
per-Mine river, which enters the Frozen ocean.
At the latter place, Mr. Hearne found it in his visit
to the Copper-Mine river, in 1771, and represents it
as in common use for knives, trinkets, &c among
the Esquimaux, the Dog-ribbed, and the Copper-
Mine tribes, who inhabit that inclement region.* It
has also been found in various parts of Illinois, as
at Harrison, and old Piora, — at Dubuques mines, —
Winnebago lake, — on the St. Peter's, — St. Croix, —
Sauteur, and other rivers, — but most abundantly
wpon Lake Superior, and particularly upon the ri-
ver Ontonagon, where the large mass which is the
object of our present visit, has long attracted atten-
tion. It is, indeed, notwithstanding the exaggerated
accounts, a wonderful mass, and viewed in connexion
with the mineral appearances of the surrounding
country, leaves little doubt that extensive mines of
this metal exist in the vicinity. But to explore it with
^ See Hearne's Journey to the Northern Ocean, p. 172 1

^

132

any degree of satisfaction, a week or u fortnight
aflTords a very inadequate period, while the extent of
the route to be performed, and the danger of so
large a party's getting out of provisions in a country
ahnost wholly destitute of game, forbids even the
devotion of a few days to that object. Having,
therefore, examined appearances, and taken such
notes, and specimens of the metal, as time and cir-
cumstances would permit, we peturned to our ca-
noes, which had been left at the distance of six miles
below. On reaching the canoes, we were alarmed
on finding that Gov. Cass, from whom we had part-
ed at the Indian path, at two o'clock, had not yet
reached the camp, nor any of the attendants who
■were with him, — among whom was one of the In-
dian guides. Some idea of the rugged nature of the
country may be formed when it is stated, that they
had lost their way in attempting to reach the river,
notwithstandinor that they were only distant three
miles, and led by an Indian acquainted with those
parts generally. Night was rapidly closing around
us, and after firing repeated signal guns, and send-
ing out m all directions, nothing could be heard of
them. The feelings of the party may be imagined
upon this occasion, seated, as we were, in the midst
of one of the most awful solitudes, and in a region
which had impressed every individual with an inde-
scribable feeling, that was manifested in a general
anxiety to depart from it. I was perhaps alone in
the wish to continue our examinations. At length
the lost party were discovered by a canoe sent up
the river, setting upon the shore, and exhausted
with fatigue, and their arrival restored tranquillity to
our camp.

1'8S

XXXVII. Day.— (June 29//t.)--Atfive o'clock in the
morning we commenced our returnc Ui) desceiidiiig
eight or ten miles, our Indian guides stopped or* the
east hank of the river, to examine a bear-fall that
had been previously set, and were overjoyed to
find a large bear entrapped. As it was no great
distance from the river, we all landed to en-
joy the sight. The animal sat up on his fore paws
facing us, the hinder paws being pressed to the
ground by a heavy weight of logs which had been
arranged in such a manner as to allow the bear to
creep under, and then by seizing the bait, had sprung
the trap, and he could not extricate himself, although,
with his fore paws, he had demolished a part of the
"Works. After viewing him for some time, a ball was
fired through his head, but it did not kill him, the
bear kept his position, and seemed to growl in defi-
ance. A second ball was aimed at the heart, and took
eifect, but he did not resign the contest immediate-
ly, and was at last despatched with an axe. As soon
as the bear fell, one of the Indians walked up, and
addressing him by the name of Muck-wah., shook
him by the paw, with a smiling countenance, as if
he had met with an old acquaintance, saying, in the
Indian language, he was sorry they had been under
the necessity of killing him, and hoped the offence
would be forgiven, particularly as Che-mo-que-mon*
had fired one of the balls. This animal measures five
feet in length, and would probably weigh three hun-
dred pounds. The head is small and narrow, with
a long pointednose, and covered with glossy black

* This is a greneral name among the Chippeways for the Ame-
ricans. It signifies the "Long Knife.'' Sag-a-nosh is t|?e term
for the British.

184

hair all over the body, except some spots of brown'
ish yellow upon the cheeks and throat. It appears
to be the comnon black bear of naturalists,
(ursus niger,) which is frequent in the United States.
By the joy which was evident upon the counte-
nances of the savages upon this occasion, it is a
rare occurrence among them to kill a bear. But
perhaps this animal is never killed without ex-
ultation, as it is universally considered the no-
blest object of the chase. Some difficulty has
arisen among naturalists as to the character of
this animal, which, although provided with canine
teeth, is supposed to subsist principally upon
vegetable food. It is, however, certain that it ig
also carniverous, and will prey upon hogs and othet
animals when pressed for food. The Indians say
that it is very fond of all sorts of nuts, esculent roots,
and wild honey, and frequently attacks their corn
fields. It will travel a great way from its den into
the pine ridges to feed upon whorlle berries, and is
also very fond of mulberries, blackberries, and all
sweet flavoured and spicy fruits. They add, that it
is only in the utmost extremity that it takes hold of
animal food, and in a region where its favourite
fruits are plenty, will pass by the carcass of a deer
without touching it. On the same account it never
attacks men, unless wounded, and too hotly pressed,
when it turns upon its pursuers with the fury of a
lion. On such occasions one stroke of the paw is
sufficient to kill their stoutest dogs The Indians
hold this animal in the highest estimation, not only
on account of their great fondness ot its flesh, but
because there is no part of it which is useless. The
carcass, the skin, the ciaws and head, and even the

185

Intestines, are all turned to account. The fleshy
part of the claws is considered a very great delica-
cy,— the claws themselves are cut out, strung to-
gether upon a deer's sinew, and worn as an orna-
ment about the neck. The oil, is, however, consi-
dered the most valuable part, whether kept for use,
or for the purpose of selling to the traders. They
rub their bodies with it to protect themselves from
the bite of the musquitoe. It has the singular pro-
perty of destroying lice in the hair, and if occasion-
ally used, of preventing their appearance altogether.
They also rub their joints with it, believing with
the Romans, that it renders them supple. A singular
fact is mentioned by Pennant, that the female bear is
never killed with young, and it is explained on the
supposition, (for the fact admits of doubt,) that the
male possesses such an unnatural dislike to its off-
spring, as to kill and devour the cubs. On this ac-
count, the female retires before the period of partu-
rition, into remote woods and clefts of rocks, and
does not return until the cubs have attained a cer»
tain growth.

In passing down the river one of the Indians had
promised to discover another mass of copper near
the river, but after landing and hunting sometime,
pretended he could not find it. An Indian after-
wards brought us a lump of copper weighing be-
tween eight and nine pounds, which he said was
picked up upon the banks of the Ontonagon. This
specimen was covered with a green crust, and not ia
so pure a state as the great mass above. On reach-
ing the lake we found the wind directly ahead, and
were detained the remainder of the day. In the af-
ternoon a council was held with the Indians, and

24

186

presents distributed among them, and one of the
number, who aj>peared to merit it, constituted a
chief, by being invested with a flag and silver me-
dal. In the evening, they danced upon the sand for
our aniuseroentv I have already spoken of Indian
dancing and music. It is perhaps all we could ex-
pect from untutored savages, but there is nothing
about it which has ever struck me as either interest-
ing or amusing, and after having seen these per-
formances once or twice, they become particularly
tedious, and it is a severe tax upon one's patience
to sit and be compelled, in order to keep their good
opinions, to appear pleased with it.

XXXVIII. Dai.— (June 30//t.)—Detained by head^
winds. There is very little in the appearances of
the country in the vicinity of our encampment, to
compensate for our delay. A sandy plain stretches
along the shore of the lake as far as the eye can reach.
The highlands of the Ontonagon are visible towards
the south, and the Porcupine mountains at the distance
of thirty miles west, appear to rise out of the lake,
and imprint their lofty and rugged outlines upon the
distant clouds. Towards the north there is an inter-
minable expanse of water, without a solitary island
to variegate the view. Letting the eye fall upon th€?
immediate vicinity of our camp, the Indian village
appears on the opposite side of the river, and we are
surrounded on all sides by a bed of loose sand,
which the wind is continually drifting into heaps.
There is not a pebble upon the shore, nor a stra-
tum of rock within a dozen miles. Occasional
strata of iron sand, very pure and black, are found.
An Indian brought me a number of specimens of iron

187

ore, procured at Point Keweena, near the port-
age, where he represents it to exist in large quantity.
The specimens consist of red hematite and iron py-
rites. Both these substances are said to occur
in quantity on Iron river, which enters the lake
fifteen miles west of the Ontonagon. While encamp-
ed here, pigeons have been \ery plenty, and vast
numbers have been killed, some wiili slicks and
stones. The Indians have also supplied us with stur-
geon from the fishery, both fresh and dried, and with
a part of the bear which they entrapped, but the
latter, being in poor order, and a male, has not pos-
sessed that flavour for which young bear's meat kil-
led in the proper season, is generally relished.

The weather since our arrival upon the banks of
this river, has been clear and warm, and during the
middle of the day, oppressively sultry. The wind
which blew fair from the E. N. E. on our arrival,
shifted to the north west on the following day, and
has blown steadily from that point without change.
The thermometer stood at 91° on the 2Bth, at 91° on
the 29th, and at 89° on the 30th, and the mean heat
as deduced from three daily observations has been
80°. During the same time the mean temperature of
the water of Lake Superior has been 6b°, and of the
water of the Ontonagon river 7.i°. The following
thermometrical memoranda made at irregular inter-
vals, as circumstances would permit, may here be
added.

Temperature of the Air.
June 28th, at 8 A. M. 74°— at 1 P. M. 9l°— at 6 P. M. 74o av. 79''
« 29th, at 8 A. M. 79°— at 1 P. M. 94°— at 7 P- M. 86° av. 86°
" 30th, at 9 A. M. 76o— at 2 P. M. 8-9"— at 8 P. M. 6*!' av 75*'

3)240

Mean temp, for three days 80*

188

Water of the Ontonagon River.

June 28th, at S A. M. 69*— at 3 P. M. 73°— at 6 P.M. 71° av. 71*
« 29th, at 8 A. M. 68°— at 1 P. M. '.6"— at 7 P- M. 7^° av. 76*'
<« 30th, at 8 A. M. 74o— at 3 P. M. 71° av. 72*?

3)219
Average temperature 73*

Water of Lake Superior.

June 28th, at 8 A. M. 26o— at 6 P. M. 72° •
*' 29th> at 8 A M. 6lo— at 7 P. M. 68o.
« 30th, at 8 A. M. 60o— at 9 P. M. 58o-

3)200
Mean temperature 66|

CHAP. VIL

JOURNEY^

fROJH THE OJ^TOJVAGOJ^ RIVER TQ THE FO^TD DU LAC.

'i\^\

XXXIX. Day.— (Jm/^ 1*^)

A HE wind ceased during the night, and the morn-
ing was calm, with a dense fog, which rendered it
impossible to discern objects at the distance of two
or three hundred yards. We left the mouth of the
Ontonagon at half past four in the morning. Ingo-
ing eight or ten milv°s a favourable wind arose which
enabled us to proceed under sail for a couple of hours.
Fifteen miles beyond the Ontonagon, wc passed the
mouth of Iron river, which is very rapid, and inter-
locks with some of the tributaries of the Ousconsins:,
Iron ore and pyrites are said to abound upon its
banks. Five leagues beyond, we passed the Carp
river, which originates in the Porcupine mountains,
and has a perpendicular fall of forty feet, three miles
from its mouth, Presque Isle river is six miles further.
It is also very rapid and not much navigated in ca-
noes. Black river is next passed, at the distance of
two leagues. It is also rapid, and originates in the
broken lands south of the Porcupine mountains-

190

Eight miles bej^ond this, we encamped, having pro-
ceeded fifty miles. The shore of the lake from the
Ontonagon river, until we arrive off the Porcupine
mountains, is sandy, with ihe exception of a ledge of
sand rock which appears a lew feet above the water
at the mouth of Iron river, and is inclined towards
the N. E. at an angle of six or eight degrees On
passing by the Porcupine mountains, the same rock,
(red sand stone) is visible along the shore, but in a
position so highly inclined, as to appear nearly verti-
cal. It dips under the lake towards the north, and
appearances seem to indicate that it has been
thrown into this position by the upheaving of the
granitic masses of the Porcupine mountains, which
rise at a very short distance from the lake. These
mountains have a very rugged and commanding ap-
pearance, and rise to a surprising height. We saw
them under the influence of great atmospheric re-
fraction, from Keweena Portage, a distance of eighty
miles. Captain Douglass has estimated their alti-
tude at from one thousand eight hundred to two
thousand feet above Lake Superior. His data are
the distances at which they are visible with the na-
ked eye, under different degrees of refraction. Mr.
Darby says " any object capable of being seen upon
the curve of the earth's surface forty miles, must be
within a trifle of one thousand one hundred feet
high." — Tour to Detroit^ p. 175.

Charlevoix observes, " when a storm is about to rise
on Lake Superior, you are advertised of it, two or
three days previous. At first, you perceive a gen-
tle murmuring on the surface of the water, which
lasts the whole day without increasing in any sen-
sible manner ; the day after the Jake is covered

191

with pretty large waves, but without breaking all
that day, so that you may proceed without fear, and
even make good way if the wind is favourable ; but
on the third day when you are the least thinking of
it, the lake becomes all on fire, the ocean in its
greatest rage is not more tost, in which case you
must take care to be near shelter, to save your-
self. This you are always sure to find on the north
shore, whereas on the south you are obliged to se-
cure yourself the second day at a considerable dis-
tance from the water side "* Although we are Mot
prepared to corroborate this remark, yet something
of the kind has this day been witnessed, for notwith-
standing the prevalence of a calm during the whole
day, with the exception of about two hours in Ihe
morning, when the w ind was however light, the lake
towards evening has been in a perfect rage, and we
effected a landing with greater hazard than has yet
been encountered. At the same time scarce a
breath of air was stirring, and the atmosphere was
beautifully clear.

XL. Day. — {July 2c/.) — Thirteen miles from our
encampment, we reached the mouth of the Montreal
river, which we entered, and landed upon its banks.
This is a long and rapid river, and is connected with
the head waters of the Chipppway and Ousconsing.
About eight hundred yanls above its mouth it has a
fall of eighty or ninety feet, where the river is pre-
ci,>itated over a rugged barrier of vertical rocks, by
several successive leaps, the last of which is about
forty feet perpendicular. This brings the stream on
a level with Lake Superior, which it joins in a broad

* Charlevoix, p. 44. vol. 2.

deep stream, with reddish coloured water. Thii?
view is liighly picturesque as presented from the
point of land formed by the junction of the river with
the lake. INotwithstanding its rapidity, and falls, it
is frequently ascended by the traders, and a port-
age of one hundred and twenty pauses commences at
its mouth. The southwest company have an estab-
lishment on Lac du Flambeau, which is near the
head of this river. Between the foot of the falls and
the lake, the Indians have a wier similar to that on
the Ontonagon, for catching sturgeon, and there is
an Indian village a few miles west of it. During a
short stay here, we found pigeons very abundant,
and several were killed with clubs.

Twelve miles beyond the Montreal river, is the
Mauvais which is navigable a hundred miles in ca-
noes, and takes its rise in the Ottaway Lake. From
this a portage is made into branches of the St. Croix
and Chlppeway rivers, through a series of small
lakes, the principal of which are Spear, Clam, Sum-
mer, Pacquayahwan, and Lac du Coutere, On the
latter the southwest company have a trading estab-
lishment. On4he banks of the Ottaway lake the In-
dians procure a sort of red steatite, similar to that of
St. Peter's, of which they manufacture pipes. Six
miles beyond the Mauvaise, is Point Che-goi-me-
gon, once the grand rendezvous of the Chippeway
tribe, but now reduced to a few lodges. Three
miles further west is the island of St. Michael, which
lies in the traverse across Chegoimegon Bay, where
M. Cadotte has an establishment. This was former-
ly an important trading post but is now dwindled to
nothing. There is a dwelling of logs, stockaded in
the usual manner of trading houses, besides several

193

©at buildings, and some land in cultivation. VVe
here also found several cows and horses, which have
been transported with great labour. On this isl-
and two pieces of native copper were found some
years ago, one of which was a foot long, and weigh-
ed twenty-eight pounds. It is also stated that a sil-
ver mine exists on the main shore southwest of the
island, but during the short time of our stay, we
could procure no satisfactory information on the sub-
ject. The Indians appear very jealous of every at-
tempt to explore the mineralogy of their territories,
and are loth to communicate any information that
would lead to a discovery. We encamped seven
miles west of this island, on the main shore.

The shore of the lake during this day's journey
has exhibited some diversity. Red sand stone, in a
vertical positiorj, continues for a few uiiles beyond
Montreal river, it generally rises out of the water
abruptly, and in some places, as between Black and
Montreal rivers, to a height of eighty or a hundred
feet. In the interstices of the rock, the water has
driven up pebbles of granite, hornblende, quartz, &c.
A bank of red clay, of twenty or thirty teet in depth,
overlays the rock, covered with a young growth of
birch and poplar. There are no large, or apparently
©Id trees, seen along this part of the coast. About
four miles beyond Montreal river, the rock ceases,
and a sandy shore succeeds, which continues to
Point Chegoimegon,or Sandy Point. The Mauvaise
river enters through this plain of sand. On reach-
ing the main shore west of Chegoimegon Bay, we
perceive a rough, high, and broken region of hills,
consisting chiefly of hornblende rock. There is a
sandy beach on the lake shore, and at the distance

25

194

of from oue to five miles in the lake, lie a cluster of
wooded islands, which Carver called the Twelve
Apostles. There appears to be fitteen or twenty in
number, and they present a very beautiful and pic-
turesque groupe.

XLI. Day. — {July 3c/.)— -We had rain during the
night and it continued until six o'clock in the morn-
ing, when we embarked, and proceeded northwest
eight miles to Raspberry river, — then southwest six
miles to Sandy river, where ahead wind and an ap-
proaching storra compelled us to land. Before we
could unload our canoes, or pitch a tent, rain com-
menced, and it poured down in torrents for an hour
or more, during which there was no alternative but
to stand patiently upon the sand. If we had lain at
the bottom of the lake, we could not have been more
completely drenched. When the rain ceased, the
wind arose from the southwest, and confined us to
that spot during the remainder of the day.

XLII. Day.— (/w/?/!/^.)— We passr d the forty-fiftk
Anniversary of American Independance until two
o'clock, at the mouth of Sandy river. The wind
continued to blow unfavourably a great part of the
day. hi the afternoon it changed so that we were
able to put out, although the lake was still agitated r
on going three miles we turned a prominent poiitt of
land called De Tour, which lies at the foot of the
great Fond du Lac, or West Bay. Here we changed
our course from N. W. to S. S. W. and continued it,
with little variation, to the mouth of Cranberry river,
where we encamped at eight o'clock, having pro-
gressed thirty-three miles The evening was clear and
calm and twilight was observable all night. In the

10^

latitude of 67° 47 , Mackenzie saw the sun above the
horizon at 12 o'clock, P.M. This was on the 11th
July, f 78VK In 42°, (the raeridian of Albany and De-
troit,) the light of the sun is wholly invisible at this
season after eight o'clock.

XLlf I. Day. — (July ri(h.')—We were upon the lake
this morning before three o'clock. The sun rose
above the horizon at ten minutes before four, giving
us day light nearly an hour sooner than it will reach
our friends on the shores of the Atlantic. The morn-
ing was clear and calm, and the prospect of reach-
ing the head of the lake, before the sun would again
set, put our party in the finest spirits, and the voya-
geurs worked with renewed vigour. At the distance
of five leagues from Cranberry river, we passed the
mouth of the Bois Brule, which enters the lake at the
foot of a small bay. This river is navigated 80 miles,
and a portage of two pauses then made into a small
lake, which is the source of St. Croix river. The latter
enters the Mississippi between St. Peter's and lake
Pepin, and is navigable at all seasons. The South
West Company have an establishment one hundred
leagues from its mouth, and about twenty-five
leagues south of the Fond du Lac. Three miles
beyond Bois Brule we landed on the sandy shore
a few moments, and here found an immense body
of iron sand, very pure and black. It lay in a stra-
tum of a foot in thickness along the shore, and ex-
tending either way, as far as we examined. At elev-
en o'clock a northeast wind arose which enabled us
to hoist sail, and an hour afterwards we entered the
mouth of the river St. Louis, which enters the lake
at the head of the Fond du Lac. Thus have we
completed the passage of Lake Sujpepor on the

1%

eighteenth day after our departure from Point aux
Pins, including the excursion up the Ontonagon and
the delay at the mouth of that river. The entire
distance from Point Iroquois is four hundred and
ninety miles, and this is the greatest length of the
lake, in a direct course from east to west. In tra-
versing around the Canadian shore it is estimated at
twelve hundred miles, and its extreme breadth from
the bottom of Keweena Bay, to the mouth of Nipe-
gon river, is a hundred and ninety miles. Its circum-
fi?rence may be estimated at seventeen hundred
miles. Mr. Darby has calculated its medium depth at
900 feet, and its superficial area at 836,jJ52,000,000
feet.* It has a number of large and well wooded
islands, the principal of which are Maurepas, Phil-
lipoux, the Island of Yellow Sands, and Isle Royal,
The Iat:er is represented by Carver as being " an
hundred miles long, and in many places, forty broad."
The island of Maurepas is reputed to abound in
minerals, and was formerly explored by the copper
mine company. " I found it," says the agent, " one
solid rock, thinly covered with soil, except in the
valleys ; but generally well wooded. Its circumfer-
ence is tsvelve leagues. On examining the surface,
I saw nothing remarkable, except large veins of
transparent spar, and a mass of rock, at the south

* The following comparative estimate of the volume of water
jn the chain of northwestern Lakes is given by Mr. Darby in his
Tour to Detroit, p. 117.

LAKES. iMcdiMmdepth.l Sup, area in feet. I Solid cuiitcnta in feet.

Su p^rior"^ 900 | "836^ 52.- 00.000 T52T 1 6,8. '0,000,000

Hurop, I 900 I 557,568,OOO.000|501,8n,200,0O'),OOO

Michigan, i 900 | 376.S98,400,OOo| 339.208,560,000,000

JLrie, I 120 j 418,176,00(.'.000

Ontario, | 49:3 I 200;724j480j000

50,181,120,000,000
98,756,444,160,000

197

end of the island, which appeared to be composed,
of iron ore." The Island of Yellow Sands derives
its chief interest from the traditions and fanciful tales
which the Indians relate concerning its mineral trea-
sures, and their supernatural guardi »ns. Thej
pretend that its shores are covered with a heavy shi-
ning yellow sand, which they would persuade us is
gold, but that the guardian spirit of the island, will not
permit any of it to be carried away. To enforce his
commands he has drawn together upon it, myriads
of eagles, hawks, and other birds of prey, who by
their cries warn him of any intrusions upon the do-
main, and assist with their claws and beaks to expel
the enemy. He has also called from the depths of
the lake, large serpents of the most hideous forms,
who lie thickly coiled upon the golden sands, and
hiss defiance to the steps of the invader. A great
many years ago, it is pretended, that some people of
their nation were driven by stress of weather, to take
shelter upon the enchanted island, and being struck
with the beautiful and glittering appearance of the
treasure, they put a large quantity of it in their ca-
noes, and attempted to carry it off, but a gigantic
spirit strode into the water, and in a voice of thunder,
commanded them to bring it back. Terrified with
his amazing size, and threatening aspect, they obey-
ed, and were afterwards sufTered to depart without
molestation, but they have never since attempted
to land upon it.

*' Listen white man— go not there,
*' Unseen spirits stalk the air ;
<' Ravenous birds their influence lend,
*' Snakes defy — and kites defend.
''There the star-eyed panther prowls,
** And the wolf in hunger bowls ;

198

■(' There the speckled adder breedsp
" And the famished eagle feeds,
^' Spirits keep them — fiends incite,
" They are eager for the fight,
*' And are thirsting night and day.
" On the human heart to prey,
" Touch not then the guarded lands
" Of the isle of yellow sands."— MSS.

Carver represents "the countryon the north and east
parts of Lake Superior as very mountainous and bar-
ren," and Mackenzie adds, that "it is a continued moun-
tainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to
one thousand five hundred feet in height." The prin-
cipal rivers on that shore are the Pic, Nipegon, and
Michepicoten. The chmate is described as very
unfavourable and the vegetation slow and scanty,
We can only speak with certainty of the southern
coast, on which it receives thirty tributary rivers, but
none of them exceed a hundred and fifty miles in
lengtli. Of these the Ontonagon, Montreal, Mau-
vaise, Bois Brule, and St. Louis are the largest, and
communicate with the waters of the Mississippi.
The coast is sandy from Point Iroquois to the Pic-
tured Rocks ; then rocky to the foot of the Fond du
Lac, with occasional plains of sand, as at the Onto-
nagon, and Point Chegoimegon, and from that to the
head of the lake, sandy and without hills. The forest
trees are white and yellow pine, hemlock, spruce,
birch, poplar, and oak, with a mixture of elm, maple,
and ash, upon the banks of the rivers. The coast is ve-
ry elevated,— in some places mountainous,— generally
sterile, — and dangerous to navigate. It is subject to
storms and sudden transitions of temperature, and tp
fogs and mists, which are often so dense as to ob-
scure objects at a short distance, arid prove disas-
trous to canoe travellers, by separatinjj the party ami

199'

driving them upon rocks and sand banks. It ap-
pears to enjoy a warm atmosphere during the sum-
mer season, the result of our observations indicating:
^ mean heat of 66^ for Jurie, and 64° for July. We
found strawberries ripe at Keweena Portage on the
25th, and at the Ontonagon on the 27th of June. But
it has a long and frightful winter. The Indians liv-
ing upon its shores are divided into small bands, and
rely more upon the fish of the lake, than upon the
chace. There are two kinds of trout, some of
which weigh fifty pouiids. White fish, sturgeon
pickerel, pike, carp, black bass, and herring, are al-
so abundant. Although we have occasionally met
ducks along the shore, it is not a favourite resort of
water fowl. The waters are too pure and deep,
and the coast too rocky for the growth of the wild
rice, and those aquatic plants which draw such my-
riads of these birds into the northwestern regions.
Its mineralogy and geology have been detailed in
the progress of the voyage. No part of the union
presents a more attractive field for geological inves-
tigation or mineral discoveries. Its copper, iron, and
lead, promise to become important items in the fu-
ture commerce of the country. The beds of iron
sand along the shore exceed every thing of the kind
found in the United States. It presents two har-
bours for vessels which are rarely equalled : — These
are Grand Isle, and Chegoimegon Bay. 1 he former
is perhaps the most capacious, deep, and completely
land-locked of any in America. Such are the lead-
ing traits of the southern shore of Superior. The
French it appears bestowed unsuccessfully upon this
lake the names of Conde, and Tracy. The former
had previously been applied to Erie, but neither
were ever fully adopted. I was anxious from the

200

time of our entrance upon it, to learn the Indiaft
name ; it is JMbsisawgaiegon^ si^nifving simply '■•great
lake." According to the estimates which J have
rnacle,this lake has an elevation offifly one feet above
Lake Huron, — eighty-one, above l^ake Erie, — and
gix hundred and forty-one, above the Atlantic ocean
at high tide.*

On turning Point de Tour, a few miles beyond San-
dy river, we have the first glimpse of the mountains
on the north side of the lake, which are distant
probably forty miles. These become more distinct,
and continue to increase in apparent altitude as
we ascend the Fond du Lac, while on the south shore
the highlands either recede so uidely from the lake
as to become invisible, or entirely cease. On reach-
ing the mouth of St. Louis, or t ond du Lac river^
the Cabotiant mountains present a lofty barrier to-
wards the north, and have an apparent altitude of a
thousand feet above the lake. The chain runs from.

* ELEVATION OF THE AMERICAN LAKES.

Feet. Tot. Fee:.
Level of Lake Erie ahave the tide waters of the

Hudson, (as surveyed by the N. Y. Lanal Com-

inis.« ioiiers,
Lake St, Clair, (see estimate in chapter 2.)
Lake Huron, (see estimate in chapter 2.)
Mean fall of the river St. Mary, between De Tour

and Point Irnqnois, sixty miles, at three inches

per m le. 'rapids not included)
Nibish rapid,
Su^ar Lland rapid

i>a»jlt de St. Marie, (according to Col. Gratiot,)
Lake Superior, 52 10 64i

1 Col. Boucn» ttf, in his Topoorraphical Des ription of the Can-
adas, has app'ind the name C abulia, (in allusion to Christiafl
Ciihot, the di-covenr,) to all that part of North America l^ing
north tif the Great Lake.«.

56)

10

570

19

589

15

9

6

22 10

201

east to west, and as far as the eye can reach stretches
off in a lofty line towards the Mississippi. It is this
barrier which we have to cross with our baggage
and canoes in ascending the St. Louis river, for this
precipitous stream has worn its rugged channel
through these mountains, and throws itself into Lake
Superior at its extreme head. The mouth of this
river is not more than a hundred and fifty yards
wide, but immediately on entering, it expands to a
mile, and continues this width for five or six miles,
and this part of it resembles a lake more than a ri-
ver, having little or no current, — shallow in many
places, and filled with aquatic plants. VVe here
first saw in plenty the folle avoine, or wild rice,
which is so common througlwut the northwestern
regions, and serves the Indians as a substitute for
corn. We had previously noticed this plant in small
patches, in passing through the river St. Mary, and
along the shores of a few of the tributary rivers of Lake
Superior, — but it is in no place seen along the shore
of the lake itself Neither does that lake afford any
of the water grasses, rushes, or liliaceous plants com-
mon to most of the lakes and ponds of the north.
Naturalists do not seem agreed as to the character
of this plant, and a discrepancy appears in the
botanical nomenclature. Linnaeus has arranged it
as a variety of the species plantarum, under th(^
name of Zezania Aquatica. Micheaux and Eaton
denominate it Zezania Clavulosa. The Linnasan name
is the most characteristic. Other names have been
given by different botanists, but few in fact have en-
joyed the opportunity of examining the plant in its
natural situation, and it is not even settled Whether
the fruit is annually produced from new seed, or the

26 T

202

same root continues to germinate for many years.
There can be no doubt, as Pursh has suggested, that
it is a perennial plant, ft ripens about the first ot"Sep-
teraber, when the Indians gather it by pushing their
cances into the thickest fields of it,— breaking down
the tops of the stalks, and beating out the grain with
their paddles, which falls upon a spread blanket in
their canoes. This is a labour which is performed
hj the squaws. A great deal of chaff falls in with
the grain, which is afterwards partially fanned out
tipon a blanket, but it is never got entirely clean.
The grain has a long cylindrical shape, and becomes
dark coloured and hard as it dries. It contams
more gluten than common rice, and is very nourish-
ing. It is simply boiled in water until it assumes a
pasty consistence, and it has an agreeable flavour.
The Indians have no salt, but make use of maple
sugar, when in season. They have no method of
reducing it into meal, but the squaws sometimes, in
cases of sickness, pound small quantities in a deer-
skin bag, and thus procure a kind of flour of which
panada is made.

Three miles above the mouth of the St. Louis ri-
ver, there is a village of Chippeway Indians, of four-
teen lodges, and containing a population of about
sixty souls. Among these we noticed a negro who
has been long in the service of the fur company, and
who married a squaw, by whom he has four children.
It is worthy of remark, that the children are as black
.as the father, and have the curled hair and glossy
skin of the native African. It does not appear that
climate has had any more induence here, than it has
along the borders of the Atlantic, in ameliorating
the colour of this race. But this evidence is certain-

203

ly not wantecl in tlie present state of physical and
philosophical science, to establish the fact that tlie
radical colours of the diflerent species of the hu-
man family, are independent of the influence of
climate.

A short distance above this village, on the oppo-
site side of the river, are the ruins of one of the old
forts and trading houses of the northwest company,
which was abandoned about six years ago. The
gite is elevated and pleasant, but the American com-
pany have not thought proper to re-occupy it, and
have fixed their establishment for the Fond du Lac
department, eighteen miles above, where the first
portage commences. By this change of site, they
save the labour of loading and unloading their ca-
noes at the mouth of the river. We arrived at the
company's house at seven o'clock in the evening.
The establishment consists of a range of log build-
ings, inclosing three sides of a square, open toward
the river, and containing the ware-house, canoe, and
boat yard, dwelling house of the resident clerk, and
accommodations for the voyageurs. There are about
four acres of ground under cultivation, upon which
potatoes are raised. No species of grain has been
tried. The department is supplied with wild rice
by the Indians. The buildings are situated upon an
alluvial plain elevated a few feet above the river,
and the site is healthy and pleasant. We here see
pines and suojar maple grov/ing beside each other,
— which is, I believe, a rare occurrence. . The com-
pany have recently sent up a number of agricultural
implements, with a view of experimenting upon the
soil and climate, together with three horses, two
oxen, three cows, and four bulb. These animals
have been transported with great difficulty.

204

The weather, since leaving the Ontonagon, has
iDeen variable. We have had rain a part of two
days, and it has been misty, cloudy or stormy, the ba-
lance of the time, with the exception of a part of
the second of July, and the morning of this day.
The highest atmospheric heat during this time has
been 80% and the average heat 64°. The wind has
blown successively N. N. W.—W. S. W.— S. S. W.
and N. E. The mean temperature of ihe water of
Lake Superior has been 61°* The following are
the stationary distances of the route.

Prom the Ontonagon to Iron River,

Carp River, and the Porcupine Mountains,

Presque Isle River,

Black River,

Wonlreal River,

La JMauv^ise Riviere, (Bad River,)

Point Chegoiniegon,

Cadotte's House, (Island of St. Michael,)

Fromboise, (Raspberry,) River,

Sandy River,

De Tour (foot of Fond du Lac,j

Cranberry Creek,

Bois Brule (Burntvvood) River,

Mouth of St. Louis River, or (Fond du Lac,)

Chippeway village,

American Fur Company's Establishment,

* Meteorological Observations on the journey from the Ontonagon to
the Fond du Lac.

Miles.

Tot. Miles.

15

15

30

6

36

6

42

21

63

12

75

6

81

3

84

15

99

6

105

3

108

30

138

15

153

21

174

3

177

18

195

AIR.

WA'lEll

'Is

fc

a

A.M.

1 P. M.

A. M.| P. M.

u

s -

l^r^i

Ju-

4

6

70

7
57

8
61

70

63

10

75

61
75

75

76

68

3
6~

HO

6

68

9

4

6

8: 2

—

61 9

1=

ly i;54

— 1—

61

65

^^^l

04

67

SNW

Ml- y.

65

65

63

62

r4

68
|60

02
58

04

(:8

wsw

Clear.

62 &r

60

65

bSW

Ra.n.

—

58

"54

—

53 1 1
163 6 il 1

—

58
63~

58 ssw

65 NK

MiSty.

5|309 5
Water 6le

323
64^ A

Lir.

-I

CHAPTER VIU.

J O U RjY E Y,

FROM THE FOXD BU LAC TO SJ,YJ)Y LAKE.

XLIV. DxY.-^{July 6iL)

▼V E left the establishment at ten o'clock in the
morning. The river is ascended two miles further,
to' the foot of the Grand Portage. Here the goods
are ail landed, and the carrying commences, but the
canoes, without load, ascend two miles higher to
the Galley^ where they are also taken out and car-
ried across. The first part of the portage is excess-
ively rough, and the fatigue was rendered almost in-
supportable by the heat of the day, the thermometer
standing at 82° at noon. With the assistance of the
Indians, (sixteen of whom were brought up from the
mouth of the river for that purpose,) we proceeded
however, with all our baggage, five pauses, and en-
camped at twilight.

XLV. Day. — (^July 7/A.) — A storm of rain commen-
ced duiing the night, and continued until noon, when
the sun appeared for half an hour, but the afternoon
continued dark and cloudy, with showers. We

206

commenced carrying at six o'clock, notwithstanding
the rain, and with great exertions, went tert panses
and encamped on the banks of a small brook. The
difficulties of the portage have been very much in-
creased by the rain, which has filled the carrying
path with mud and water. We are advancing into
a dreary region. — Every thing around us wears a
wild and sterile aspect, and the extreme ruggedness
of the country — the succession of swampy grounds,
and rocky precipices — the dark forest of hemlock
and pines which overshadow the soil — and the dis-
tant roaring of the river, would render it a gloomy
and dismal scene, without the toil of transporting
baggage, and the saddening intluence of one ol the
most dreary days.

XLVI. Day. — {Jiihj 8/A.)— We progressed four
pauses, and reached the river at the head of the
portage, in season to air our baggage — repair the
canoes— and make the necessary dispositions for an
early departure on tlie following day. The entire
distance of this portage is nine miles, which is pass-
ed at nineteen pauses, divided according to the un-
evenness of the ground, and the facilities of travelling.
I have already mentioned that a pause is reckoned
at half a mile, but when the country is rough and the
way bad, it is much shorter, while on a level road, it
often exceeds that distance. The labour, however,
of travelling across a short pause is as great as that
of the longest, and about the same time is required
in crossing it, so that this term israther expressive
of a division of the labour of making a portage, than
of the geographical distance. The fall of the St.
Louis river, between the extremes of this portage m

207

very great, being one continued chain of rapids and
falls, and at one place there is a perpendicular pitch
of thirty feet. Altogether, the descent may be esti-
mated at two hundred and twenty feet. It is here
that the river forces a passage through a chain of
mountains consisting of short broken ridges, which
give the country a very rugged appearance, and
render the travelling excessively toilsome. Where
we leave the river at the foot of the portage, these
ridges consist of red sand stone rocks in horizontal
layers, but on reaching the head of the portage, we
find the banks of the river composed of slate, {argil-
lite, )in a vertical position, traversed by veins of
greenstone and milky quartz. The change in the
rock strata takes [)lace at some intermediate point,
which was not precisely noticed. At the foot of the
portage I picked up among the loose stones along the
shore, a specimen of the micaceous oxide of iron,
and some pyrites were also found at that place.
While examining the argillite above, I discovered a
vein of graphite (plumbago or blacklead) hetween
the vertical layers of that rock, but of an indifferent
quality for economical purposes. Probably the in-
terior of the vein would yield this mineral in a more
perfect form. Large detached blocks of black crys-
tallized hornblende rock are found scattered along
the shore of the river, but this rock is not observed
in situ. A stratum of alluvial soil, of two or three
feet in depth rests upon the slate, ft also contains
imbedded masses of hornblende, together with gra-
nite, quartz, and argillite, and a thin sub-stratum of
vegetable mould overlays all. The growth of trees
is pine, hemlock, spruce, birch, oak, and maple, the
former predominating. In clambering among the

2oa

rocks along the river, 1 found the red raspberry ripe.
This appears to be the common rubus strigosus,
with a thornless stem, — berries a scarlet red, very
sweet, — acines slightly adhering V\ here depres-
sions exist in the surface of the soil, so that it re-
mains wet and marshy, the tamarack is found, and
the white cedar is seen overhanging the cliffs on the
banks of the river, and adds very much to the pic-
turesque appearance of the St. Louis at this place.

XLVII. DxY.—{hihj 9th.)— On reaching the foot
of the Grand Portage, we exchanged two of our larg-
est canoes with the American Fur Company, for
four of smaller size adapted to the navigation of the
river above the portage, and now proceeded on
our voyage in seven small canoes. The river is as-
cended six miles to the Portage aux Coteaux, which
consists of three pauses, and is a mile and a half
across. The carrying path lies over an elevated
tract of rough country consisting of slate in a verti-
cal position, which is in many places naked, and
some idea may be formed of the singular appear-
ance of the rock, by comparing it to the leaves of a
book standing edgewise. The effect of this arrange-
ment of the strata, upon the mockasins and feet of
tht^ voyageurs, who cross this portage has led to its
name — the portage of knives. At the lower end of
it, this slate forms a lone standing pile, or pyramid, in
the centre of the river, of eighty or ninety feet in
height, and supporting in its crevices a few stunted
cedars and pines. The banks on either side are
comparatively low at the water's edge, but preserve
the same geological character and position, and at a
short distance back, rise to a corresponding eleva-

209

fioii. It appears evident that the river has here rent
and worn a passage through the rock, as it must have
done at innumerable other places, in its rapid and
rugged course. The growth of trres here is almost
exclusively cedar, pine, and spruce. We encamp-
ed at the head of the portage at an early hour in the
afternoon. Here the river has a perpendicular fall
of fourteen feet. At the foot of it there is a vein of
chlorite slate, about two hundred yards below the
fall on the west shore. At this place we also found
the red raspberry. A tall elm which overshadows
the little green which has been formed on the bank
of the river, at the head of the portage, in connexion
with the fall and surrounding woods and rocks,
throws an air of rural beauty over this scene—

" So wond'rous wild, the whole might seem
" The scenery of a fairy dream."

XLVIII. Day.— (/wZv/ 10//i.)— The difficulties at-
tendis.g our ascent of the St. Louis river, induced
the Governor to determine on detaching a part of
the expedition across the country by land, to Sandy
Lake, whenever we should arrive at an eligible
spot. For this purpose two Chippeway guides, of the
Fond du Lac band, had been brought along from the
head of the Grand Portage, and this was the place
chosen for the separation. The party thus detached,
consisted of eight soldiers under the command of
Lieut. Mackay, accompanied by Mr. Doty. Mr. Trow-
bridge, Mr. Chase, and myself, together with an in-
terpreter of the Chippeway language, and the two
Indian guides — sixteen in all. The route was repre-
sented as capable of being performed in two day's

27

210

journey, if no accident occurred. We left the camp
at the head of the portage at 6 o'clock in the morn-
ing, each carrying a pack containing five day's
provisions, a knife, a musquitoe bar, and a cloak
or blanket. Several were armed, but others left
their guns, as it was thouglit we should see little
game, and they would be cumbersome in travelling.
Our guides taking their course by the sun, immedi-
ately struck into a close matted forest of pine and
hemlock, through which we urged our way with some
difiicuUv. On travellinjr two miles we fell into an
Indian path, leading in the required direction, which
we followed until it became lost in swamps. After
pursuing it two miles. Me passed through a succes-
sion of ponds and marshes, where the mud and water
were in some places half leg deep. These marshes
continued four miles, and were succeeded by a strip
of three miles of open dry sandy barren, covered
with shrubbery, and occasionally clumps of pitch
pines. This terminated in a thick forest of hem-
lock and spruce, of a young growth, which continu-
ed two miles and brought us to the banks of a small
lake, with clear water and a pebbly shore. Having
110 canoe to cross, we took a circuitous route around
its southern shore, through thick woods and swamps,
where the difficulty of travelling was very much in-
creased, by fallen trees and brush. In order to
avoid these difficulties, on approaching the head
of this lake, we walked along the shore of it and
occasionally in the water, and here Ave picked
up several beautiful specimens of agate and carnelian.
We now again fell into the Indian path which led us
to two sm;dl lakes, similar in size to the Carnelian
lake, but \vith marshy shores, and reddish water, and

211

filled with pond flowers, rushes, and folic avoine. At
the second lake the path ceased at the water's edge,
and our guides could not afterwards find it. Here
they found a large green tortoise, which they killed
in a very ingenious and eflbctual way, by a blow with
a hatchet upon the neck, at the point where the un-
der part of the shell serves as a sheath to it. I had
never before seen the tortoise killed in so expeditious
a manner: it was carried along to be eaten at night.
They here appeared to be in doubt about the way.
We now entered the great tamarack swamp, in which
we progressed about eight miles, and encamped at 5
o'clock near the shore of the third lake, having tra-
velled eleven hours, and passed a distance ot about
twenty miles. The weather in the morning was
cloudy, and rain commenced about seven o'clock,
and continued at intervals all day. The thermome-
ter at 6 A. M. stood at 53^— at 12 A. M. at 72°, and
at 6 P. M. 51°. The sun was not visible during the
day. The principal forest trees are tamarack [pinus
pemhla,) yellow pine, cedar, spruce, and birch. The
winter green has been common on the pine bar-
rens, the sarsapariila {aralla nundicaulis) in the for
ests.

XLIX. Day. — {July Wth.^ — On quitting our en-
campment this morning, the Indians left a memorial
of our journey inscribed upon bark, for the informa-
tion of such of their tribe as should happen to fall ap-
on our track. This we find to be a common cus-
tom among them. It is done by tracing, eitlier with
paint or with their knives upon birch bark, {betulu
pappacea) a number of figures and hieroglyphics
which are understood by their nation. This sheet

212

of bark is afterwards inserted in the end of a pole,
blazed, and drove into the ground, with an in-
clination towards the course of travelling. In the
present instance the whole party were represented
in a manner that was perfectly intelligible, with the
aid of our interpreter, each one being characterized
by something emblematic of his situation or employ-
ment. They distinguish the Indian from the white
man, b>' the particular manner of drawing the figure,
the former being without a hat, &c. Other distinctive
symbols are employed, thus — Lieut. Mackay was fi-
gured with a sword to signify that he was an officer,
— Mr. Doty, with a book, the Indians having under-
stood that he was an attorney, — myself, with a ham-
mer, in allusion to the mineral hammer I carried in
my belt, &c. The figure of a tortoise and prairy hen,
denoted that these had been killed, — three smokes
> — that our encampment consisted of three fires, —
eight muskets, — that this was the number armed, —
ttiree hacks upon the pole, leaning N. W. that we
were going three days N. VV. — the figure of a white
man with a tongue near his mouth, (like the Azteek
hieroglyphics) that he v/as an interpreter,&c. Should
an Indian hereafter visit this spot, he would there-
fore read upon this memorial of bark, — that four-
teen white men and two Indians encamped at that
place, — that five of the white men were chiefs or of-
ficers,— one an interpreter, — and eight common sol-
diers,— that they were going to Sandy Lake, (know-
ing three days journey N. W. must carry us there) —
that we were armed with eight guns, and a sword, —
that we had killed a tortoise, a prairy hen, &:c. I
had no previous idea of the existence of such a medi-
um of intelligence among the northern Indians. All

213

the travellers of the region, are silent on the suhjert.
I had before witnessed the facility with which one
of the lake Indians had drawn a map of certaii; parts
of the southern coast of Lake Superior, but here was
a historical record of passing events, as permanent
certainly as any written record among us, and full
as intelligible to those for whom it was intended.
We left our encampment at seven o'clock, and after
travelling nine hours in the Tamarack swamp, en-
camped, having progressed by estimation, 14 miles.
This has been the most fatiguing days journey
onthe tour, and several of our party lay down at
night in a complete state of exhaustion. Even
our Indian guides demanded a halt. All that could
render travelling tiresome and perplexing, has been
encountered — swamps--mud-~bog' — windfalls— stag-
nant water — the want ot spots sufficiently dry to sit
down upon — and of water that could be drank, have
successively opposed our progress, and enhanced the
labour of the journey. To increase thepe perplexi-
ties, our guides seemed uncertain of their way, and
we wandered about among bogs and morasses,
without the satisfaction of knowing that we approach-
ed nearer to the place we were in search of While
toiling our way through this dreary and inhospitable
region, the remark of the Baron La Hontan, respect-
ing the northwestern region of Canada, that it is " the
fag end of the world," came forcibly to mind. It was
probably by revertino^, under similar circumstances
to the smiling regions of the south of France, his
native country, that the Baron was induced to throw
out this geographical anathema. Without applying
the remark to the whole region of the northwest,
or presuming to say, that this particular section of it

214

is indicated by the lowest degree in the scale of coun-
tries geologically cursed, it may be remarked,
that it is subject to the influence of a winter atmos-
phere for nine months in the year, and that it can
never be rendered subservient to the purposes of
agriculture, or traversed by roads. Even ihe Indians
never visit it except during the winter season upon
the ice, for the purpose of taking the marten, beaver,
and muskrat. The dreadful storms which prevail
here at certain seasons, are indicated by the prostra-
tion of entire forests, and the up-rooting of the firm-
est trees. These lie invariably pointing towards the
southeast, indicating the strongest winds to prevail
from the opposite point. It is one of the most fatigu-
ing labours of the route, to cross these immense
windfalls, — the trees are chiefly tamarack, spruce,
cedar, ash, white birch, and hemlock. In the course
of the day we have crossed a turbid stream running
towards the south, called ^keek Seebe (kettle river,)
which is tributary to the Missisawgaiegon which en-
ters the Mississippi, a short distance above the falls
of St. Anthony, after having passed in the intermedi-
ate distance through the Great Spirit Lake.

L. Day. — {Ju^y 12^^.)— The dampness of the ground
upon which we lay, and the torment of the musqui-
toes, gave us little rest. We commenced our march
at five o'clock, and after travelling twelve hours pas-
sed out of the great swamp, and encamped upon the
banks of a small stream called Buflaloe creek, which
is tributary to Sandy Lake. Here our guides came
to a country which they recognised, and by their re-
iterated shouts convinced us that they were no less
overjoyed than ourselves upon this discovery. In a

215

short time they pointed out to us hacked trees and
bushes where they had formerly passed, which en-
tirely restored our lost confidence, and before night
we fell into an Indian trail which they followed with
as much apparent facility and confidence as an Amer-
ican traveller would a turnpike road, although we
could seldom distinguish the marks and signs by which
they were guided. We compute this day's journey at
20 miles. In crossing the swamp we found the cran-
berry {oxijcoccus macrocarpiis) in great abundance*
Upon the same bog were to be seen the fruit of last
year's growth, the green berries of the present sea-
son, and flowers that were just expanding. The
agreeable taste of this berry was a grateful treat, at a
time when we were much fatigued, by travelling for
many miles over an elastic open bog where no
drink-water could be procured.

LI. Day. — {July 1 3/^.) — We were aroused between
four and five o'clock by a shower of rain, and after
taking our customary breakfast of dried beef and
biscuit, pursued the Indian trail tow^ards Sandy
Lake, which we reached after travelling fourteen
miles, at 12 o'clock. Our path after leaving the
sw^amps lay across a succession of sandy ridges, co-
vered with white and yellow pine, with some poplar
and thickets of underbrush in the valleys, and alto-
gether, of a barren appearance. In crossing these £
noticed among the shrubbery the witch hazel, sarsa-
parilla, wild cherry, kinnikinick, and the Labrador
tea plant, {ledum latifolmm of Pursh.) Imbedded in the
sandy alluvion of these ridges are found scattered
masses of hornblende, granite, argillite, sand stone,
milky and red ferruginous quartz, jasper, and carneli-

216

an. The largest masses consist of granite and horn-
blende. The carnelian is in small frajimenls of a red
colour, sometimes clouded or striped with white,
or pale yellow. The blue jay, and brown thresher,
the pigeon and turtle dove occasionally appeared in
the forest, to enliven this part of the journey. On
approaching the lake we ascended a lofty pine ridge,
which forms its southern barrier, and commands one
of the most charming views of this romantic little
lake, which suddenly rose to our impatient sight
like a " burnished sheet of living gold" that gleam-
ing with the declining sun —

" In all her length far winding lay
*•' With promontory, creek, and bay ;
" And islands that empurpled bright
*' Floated amid the livelier light ;
'•' And mountains) that like giants stand
" To sentinel enchanted land.'' — Scott.

The Indian name for this lake is Kom-tonfr-o-og-o-
ijioo-, — the Canadians call it Lac du Sable ; both are
significant of its sandy shores. It is about five miles
long, by four in breadth, and twelve in circumfer-
ence,— of a very irregular shape, with iimumerab^e
islands,~bays,— and points, some of which project into
it half its width. Strewed along its sliores, we find
detached fragments of granite, and other rocks, to-
gether with carnelian, agate, jasper, and hornstone.
The adjoining lands are hilly and covered with pine.
The islands are characterized by oak. It has an out-
let by which, at the distance of two miles, it commu-
jiicates with the Mississippi river. On this lake the
American Fur Company have an estaMisiisnent,
which we in vain endeavoured to descry on first

217

reaching the eminence that overlooked it. We car-
ried a letler to the clerks from the agent of the es-
tablishment, Mr. Morrison, whom we met, on our
passage through Lake Superior, on his annual return
to Michilimackinac, and were informed that a gun
fired upon any part of it could be heard at the
fort, (as it is called.) Our first care, therefore, on
reaching the shore, was to fire a volley of musketry,
to advertise them of our approach, and procure a
boat to take us across. As it seemed to produce no
effect the signal was reiterated, and at last two men
"were descried in a canoe, cautiously approaching.
They appeared to be in doubt whether we were
white men or Indians, — friends or foes, — but we soon
convinced them by parading our soldiers upon the
beach, and by signals, that wc were Americans and
friends. On reaching us they proved to be the two
clerks of the company's establishment, to whom we
carried an introductory letter. They were not less
surprised at our appearance, than we overjoyed
at theirs, and while passing across the lake, they re-
lated the singular efTect which our firing had produ-
ced at their establishment, and in the contiguous In-
dian village. The Indians of this region being at war
with the Sioux, had mistaken the firing for an attack
of that nation upon some part of their tribe, and were
thrown into the utmost consternation. Some of the
women pretended to have heard the war whoop, and
all were unprepared, totally, for such an encounter.
The possibility of its being a straggling party oi'
hunters, had occurred to them, but they did not ven-
ture to reconnoitre us until they had driven ofT their
cattle and secured them in the woods, and made
some other dispositions suggested on the emergency.

218

We reached the fort a short time before sunset.
It i.-^ situated on a sandy poiiit, on the south shore of
the lake, near its outlet, and consists of a stockade
one hundred feet square, with bastions at the south-
east, and northwest angles, pierced for musketry.
The pickets are of pitch pine, thirteen leet ahcve
the ground, and a foot squpre, and pinned together
with stout plates of the same wood. There are
three gates, the principal one facing the north, which
are shut whenever liquor is dealt out to the Indians.
The stockade incloses two ranges of buildings con-
taining the provision store, x^orkshop, ware house,
rooms for the clerks, and accommodations for the
nipn. On the west and northwest angles of the fort
there are four acres ofground inclosed with pickets,
devoted lO tlie culture of potatoes. No garden vege-
tables, or grain are attempted to be raised. This
is one of the posts visited by Lieut. Pike, in 1806,
and there are still several people here who remem-
ber that visit. It was then occupied by the North-
west Company, by whom it was first erected in 1794.

L!I. D..Y. — ^^My ll^/i.)-— This morning we em-
barked, accompanied by one of the clerks of the
company's establishment, and sixteen Indians of the
Sandy Lake band, to meet the expedition on the
Savannah Portage, and assist in carrying the bag-
gage across. On going a league we landed in a bay
on the northeast shore of the lake, and proceeded
along an old trail, leading to the west end of the port-
age, where we arrived about twelve o'clock, at noon>
and to our surprise found a part of the baggage al-
ready there. Governor Cass, and some ol the gen-
tlemen who accompanied himlrom the Portage aus

219

Coteaux, had also arrived, and in the course of an
hour, we had the pleasure of seeing the uhole party
there, but it was five o'clock in the evening before
the last baggage and canoes were carried over, and
it was then concluded to encamp. The expedition
after our departure from the Portage aux Coteaux,
on the tenth, proceeded up the St. Louis about twen-
ty miles against a strong current, in the course of
which they ascended the Grand Rapids, where the
river was estimated to have a fall of \iO ieet, in six
miles. — On the eleventh they proceeded thirty-three
miles, and encamped at the mouth of the Savannah
river. — On the twelfth, they ascended that river
to within two miles of its source, and there left two
of the canoes which had been procured of the Ameri-
can Fur Company. — On the thirteenth, they proceed-
ed three pauses upon the portage. — These three paus-
es were a perfect quagmire, in which the men often
sank half-thigh deep into the mud. — On the four-
teenth, they moved ten pauses to the west end of the
portage, where we rejoined them after a separation
of five days. The geological character of the coun-
try in the intermediate distance, is considerably di-
versified. Having requested JJr. VVolcott, on leav-
ing the Portage aux Coteaux, to note the geological
appearances of the country, he obligingly furnished
me with the following observations ;

^^ July \Oth. — We left the vertical strata of slate,
about two miles above the head of the Portasre aux
Coteaux. They were succeeded by rocks of horn-
blende, which continued the w hole distance to the
head of the Grand Rapid. These rocks were only
to be observed in the bed of the river, and appeared

220

to be much water-worn, and manifestly out of place.
Soon alter we left the Portage aux Coteaux, the hills
receded from the river, and its banks for the rest
of the way were generally low, — often alluvial, — and
always covered with a thick growth of birch, elm,
sugar tree, {acer saccharinum,^ and the whole tribe of
pines, with an almost impenetrable thicket of under-
brush.

" Juli/ lUh. — The appearances of this day have
been similar to those of yesterday, except that the
country bordering the river, became entirely alluvi-
al, and the poplar became the predominating growth
while the evergreen almost entirely disappeared.
The rocks were seldom visible except upon the ra-
pids, and then only in the bed of the river, and were
entirely composed of hornblende all out of place, and
exhibiting no signs of stratification, but evidently
thrown confusedly together by the force of the cur-
rent.

'''July llth. — The Savannah river is about twenty
yards broad at its junction with the St. Louis, but
soon narrows to about half the breadth, which it re-
tains until it forks at the distance of twelve miles
from its mouth. Its whole course runs through a
low marshy meadow the timbered land occasionally
reaching to the banks of the river, but generally
keeping a distance of about twenty rods on either
side. The meadow is for the most part covered with
tufts of willow and other shrubs, common to marsh-
es. The woods, which skirt it, are of the same kinds
observed on the preceding days, except that a spe-
cies of small oak, fretjuently appears among it. The

221

river becomes so narrow towards its head, that it is
with great difficulty canoes can make tlieir way
through its windings; and the portage commences a
mile or two from its source, which is in a tamarack
swamp."

The descent of the St. Louis river in the same dis-
tance, according to the estimate kept by Dr. Wol-
cott,* is two hundred and thirty feet. The length
ofthe Savannah portage is six miles, and is passed
at thirteen pauses. The first three pauses are shock-
ingly bad. It is not only a bed of mire, but the difficul-
ty of passing it is greatly increased by fallen trees,
limbs, and sharp knots ofthe pitch pine, in some places
on the surface, in others imbedded one or two feet
below. Where there are hollows or depressions in
the ground, tall coarse grass, brush, and pools of
stagnant water are encountered. Old voyageurs
say, that this part of the portage was formerly cov-
ered with a heavy bog, or a kind of peat, upon which
the walking was very good, but that during a dry
season, it accidentally caught fire and burnt over
the surface of the earth so as to lower its level two
or three ieet when it became mirey, and subject to

Miles. Feet,

* From the head ofthe Portage aux Coteaux,

to

the Is!e aux Plaie, distance

3

15

To the Isle aux Pins,

6

G

To the head of said Isle,

1

8

6

To the foot ofthe Grand Rapide,

2

2

To the head of the Grand Rapide,

6

90

To Glukie Rapide,

6

4

To the head of ditto.

I

4

5

To Grosse Roche,

21

12 6

To Savannnh river,

12

72

To the Portage,

24

18

Total fall in 80 | 230 6

222

inundation from the Savannah river. The country,
after passii'g the third pause, changes in a short dis-
tance, from a marsh to a region of sand hills covered
mostly with white and yellow pine, intermixed with
aspen. The hills are short and conical, with a mod-
erate elevation. In some places they are drawn
out into ridges, but these ridges cannot be observed
to run in any uniform course ; on the contrary they
are confused in their arrangement. 1 he country
has a general rise from the East to the West Savan-
nah, which may be estimated at thirty feet. This is
the dividing ridge between the waters of Lake Su-
perior, and the Mississippi river. Where the portage
path approaches the sources of the West Savannah
there is a descent into a small valley covered with
rank grass- — without forest trees — and here and there
clumps of willows, similar to those on the East Sa-
vannah. This valley is skirted with a thick and
brushy growth of alder, aspen, hazel, &c. The ad-
joining hills are sandy, covered with pine. The
stream here is just large enough to swim a canoe,
and the navigation commences within a mile of its
source. It pursues a very serpentine course to San-
dy Lake, in a general direction northwest, and has
several rapids. The thermometer this day stood at
80° at noon.

LIfl. Day. — {Juhf J5ih.) — At five o'clock in the
morning we commenced our descent. The water
being very shallow, only two men were allowed to
embark in each canoe; the remainder of the party
proceeded on foot by the path we yesterday came
up. On descending four miles, there is a portage of
sis hundred yards where half the baggage is carried

223

across, but the canoes go over the rapids with half-
loads. Here the men were halted to assist. Eight
miles lower there is another portage of four or five
hundred yards, where the same labour is performed.
The river here receives a tributary from the south-,
called Ox creek, and from the point of its junction
the navigation is good at all seasons, to Sandy Lake,
a distance of six miles. It is one league from the
mouth of the West Savannah to the company's fort,
where the expedition arrived at four o'clock in the
afternoon. We were received with a salute from
the Indians a la mode de savage^ with balls. The
custom of firing salutes was introduced into this re-
gion by the North West Company, who were in the
habit of receivijig their agents and clerks, on their
annual return from Montreal, with this mark of re-
spect. But the Indians never use blank cartridges
on these occLisions, the precise reason for which I
did not learn. The balls dropped in the water all
around us, and it would seem as if they uere appa-
rantly trying how near they could strike to the canoes
wit[iout endangering our lives. The Sandy Lake
band of Indians consists at present of one hundred
and twenty souls, but it appears to have been much
larger, at a former period. Pike states the numeri-
cal force of this band in iSOi), at three hundred and
forty-eight, forty-five of whom were warriors, seven-
ty-nine women, and two hundred and twenty-four
children. The principal chief is Bookoo-sainge-gony
or Broken Arm. It is also the residence of De
Breche, who exercises something like an imperial
sway among the Chippeway bands, inhabiting the
sources of the Mississippi. This band subsists by
hunting the beaver, otter, mnskrat, moose, marten.

224

wolverine, and black and silver fox. They have
neither the deer, buffaloe, or elk. In the fall they
gather large quantities of the wild rice, which is the
only bread stuff of the region. No corn is ever rais-
ed. Their hunting grounds extend east to the Fond
du Lac band at the head of Lake Superior, north to
the Rainy Lakes, west to the Leech Lake tribe, and
south to the Mississippi prairies of the Sioux coun-
tries. Like all the erratic bands of Chippeways,
they speak the Algonquin language, and are at war
with the Sioux. 1 he remarks that are applicable
to one of these bands, are equally so to all, for they
exhibit little diversity as to their mode of living,
dress, habits, and opinions. Notwithstanding the ad-
vantages of a long intercourse with Europeans, they
may still be represented as exhibiting human society
in one of its rudest possible forms, and remain essen-
tially without agriculture, without arts, and without
relio"ion. Their physical constitution is generally
excellent. Inhabiting a hardy climate, where the
influence of winter is experienced eight months in
the year, they have acquired a hardihood of body., —
a patience under hunger and long suflering,— and a
contempt for the inclemencies of the weather, which
is peculiar to the savage tribes of the north ; and we
are tempted to apply to them the remark which Po-
libius makes concerning the Arcadians, " that the
cold and gloomy climate of Arcadia, gives the inhab-
itants a harsh and austere aspect ; for it is natural
that men, in their manners, figure, complexion, and
institutions, should resemble their climate." They
Mppear also, since the Six Nations have dropped
iheir ancient character, to possess in a higher de-
2;ree, than anv other tribe, that heroic contempt of

225

death, and manly fortitude under the pressure of mis^
fortune, which is so finely described by one of our
colonial poets, —

" Begin ye tormentors, your threats are in vain,
** For tlie sens of Alknomook shall never complain."

Frena«.

" A man,'' says the Baron La Hontan, " is not
a man with us, any further than riches will make
iiim so ; but among them the true qualifications of »
man are, to run well, — to hunt, — to bend the bow,
and manage the fusee, — to work a canoe, — to under-
stand war, — to know forests, — to subsist upon a little,
— to build cottages, — to fell trees, and to be able to
travel an hundred leagues in a wood, without any
guide, or other provision than his bow and arrows "*

Pike states the collective strength of the Chippe-
way tribes at eleven thousand one hundred and se-
venty-seven, two thousand and forty-nine of whom are
warriors, three thousand one hundred and eighty-five
women, and five thousand nine hundred and forty-
four children.! They consist of innumerable petty
bands, scattered over the immense region from De-
troit to the sources of the Mississippi, and the Red
River of Hudson's Bay. In no place is there
any large body permanently located, the internal
bands generally consist of from thirty to sixty war-
riors. It is owing to this great distribution of force,
that they have been enabled to maintain so long
and successful a war with their more powerful
neighbours, the Sioux, for it has been a defensivj?*

* La Hontan's Voyages, Vol. 2. p. 9.

t See Pike's Expeditions.

2.a

226

war on their pari; and by living in small detaclied
bands, they have rendered the superior power o( the
Sioux in a great nneasure useless, and have been en-
abled to evade Iheir attacks, and often to fall upon
them to great advantage. Thoy have relied chiefly
upon their cunning and dexterity, while the Sioux
have placed too much confidence in their superi-
or numbers. " This nation," says Lieut. Pike, " is
more mild and docile than the Sioux ; and it we ma}'^
judge from unprejudiced observers, more cool and
deliberate in action; but the latter possess a much
higher sense of the honour of their nation : the Chip-
peways plan for self-preservation. The Sioux at-
tack with impetuosity ; the others defend with every
necessary precaution. But the superior number of
the Sioux, would have enabled them to have anni-
hilated the Chippeways long since, had it not been
for the nature of their country, which entirely pre-
cludes the possibility of an attack on horseback,
i\lso, gives them a decided advantage over an ene-
irsy, who, being half armed with arrows, the least
twig: of a bush turns the shaft of death out ot its di-
rection. Whereas, the whizzing bullet holds its
course, nor spends its force short of its destined vic-
tim. Thus, we generally have found, that when en-
gaged in a prairie, the Sioux came oflf victorious ;
but if in the woods, even, if not obliged to retreat,
the carcasses of their slaughtered brethren shew
how dearly they purchase the victory." Very few
of the Chippeway bands have fixed habitations,
and their erratic disposition appears to be attri-
butable, in a great measure, to the poverty of the
regions they inhabit, and the iiiclemency of their
climate. Throughout a great proportion of the

227

region no corn can Le cultivated, and when their
game, or fish, or wild rice fails them, they are
compelled to change their residence in quest of
food. All the bands are subject to their own chiefs,
who are elected for their superior acquirements as
hunters, warriors, or orators. The same climate,
however, which renders them a scanty subsistence,
exempts them from other evils, with which their
southern neighbours are afflicted. Sickness and dis-
ease are almost unknown in their territories. They
are wholly exempted from the bilious complaints of
the southern latitudes of our continent. Their mode
of life also favours a healthful constitution of body, —
open air, — free exercise, — without exhausting fa-
tigue, and a simple diet, exempt them from a train of
diseases incident to refined society It has been said
that their wandering mode of life, and the rapidity
of their marches through the woods, generally proves
fatal to such as are stricken by age or infirmity ; and
that ill-formed children are destroyed by their moth-
ers in infancy. Nothing has, however, been observ-
ed to strengthen this opinion. It is probable indivi-
dual cases of such barbarity, (and those of extreme
deformity,) have occurred, but there does not appear
to prevail any general custom in regard to it. On
the contrary, several naturally deformed savages
which we have seen, appear to disprove the preva-
lence of such a custom, or may, at least, be looked
upon as instances of the humanity and attachment of
their mothers.

There are no bands of the northern Indians who go
entirely without clotties, even in the hottest summer
weather ; and like all other savages they possess a
great fondness for grotesque ornaments of featherSj

228

skins, bones, and claws ofanimals. They have alsq
an unconquerable passion for silver bands, beads,
rings, and all light, showy, and fantastic articles of
European manufacture. When silver cannot be
procjired they use copper, which is a native product
of the region, and is beaten out by them in a rude
way with a hatchet upon a stone, and afterwards
rubbed smooth. The women being compelled to
do the work and drudgery of savage life, have less
opportunity and time for dress, but their taste, in this
respect, remains the same, and M^henever they can
procure them, dress themselves with the most gaudy
articles. They do not, however, use feathers, an
ornament which appears exclusively appropriated
to the men and warriors. The great occasions which
draw them out in all their finery, are w^ar and feast-
ing. War and feasting, form, however, the great em-
ployments of savage society, when it has not been
ameliorated by European intercourse. The north-
ern savages play several games at cards, and have
an inordinate passion for gambling, which cirries
them to such excesses, that they will stake their
arm-bands, rings, and other articles of ornament, or
dress. This practice which was probably first intro-
duced by the French Couriers du Bois is attended
by all the bad consequences, without any of the ad-
vantages resulting from it, in civilized society — for
thoy never play for amusement. Hence many of
their quarrels and murders are attributable to gam-
bling disputes.

It has been remarked that the North American
Indians have tamed no wild animals, so as to render
them subservient to the purposes of domestic econo-
my. To this remark their dogs are an exception.

229

Jibr they appear to be nothing more than the tamed
wolt, Eind tamed fox, in some instances a mixed
breed, and in all possessing the essential characters
of these two animals. 1 hey have a long pointed
head, sharp ears, and long coarse grey hair, and
cannot bark in the manner of the European dog.
This has given Buffon occasion to say, that dogs
which have been transported li*onj Europe to Ame-
rica, suiTer so much under the deteriorating influ-
ence of our climate, that i'ley completely loose the
power of barking. The domesticated wolf, or Indian
dog, has a sullen growl, and where there is no interr
mixture, retains its primitive howl, which it is easy
to distinguish from that of the true dog.

Notwithstanding the abundance of wild rice in
this region, there is a great part of the year that they
subsist without this article, owing to their want of
industry and foresig'it m gathering a sufficient quan-
tity before it is destroyed by the myriads of aquatic
fowl, which it attracts; and also to their improvidence
in living riotously upon it in the harvest season, without
thinking of the coming winter. The bands of Chip-
peways and Ottaways inhabiting the peninsula of
Michigan, plant corn. Northwest of the Sault de St.
Marie, the Indians may be represented as wholly
without agriculture. When their wild rice is gone,
they r'^'j chiefly upon the fish wliich are abundant
in all the northern lakes. Hunting is less an object
to procure meat, than to procure furs, the animals
being mostly of the small and well-furred kind. In
times of great scarcity, they resort to several roots,
of an alimentary character, afforded by the region,
and which like the manioc of the native Brizihans,
supplies the place of bread. The principal of these

230

is the Indian potatoe, a production that remains un-
iiotici d in American Botany. What analogy it bears,
if any, to the tuckaho of the southern states, of which
a description has lately been read before the New-
York Lyceum, by Dr. John Torrey, I am unable to
say. When caught without this resource, and game
failing, they are often known to gather up the
bleached bones in the woods, and by long boiling in
water, extract some nutritive matter, which is drank
in the form of a soup, hi desperate cases, they also
collect the river and lake muscles, which are eaten,
after having been previously boiled. These are con-
sidered by the Indians the most insipid food which
they are ever driven by necessity to make use of
There is a species of lichen, in some parts of the coun-
try, which is also sometimes eaten. It is called waac by
the Indians, and Tripe de Roche by the French, and
is eaten, after being boiled down to the consistence
of a mucilage. They are the only tribes of American
Indians who live icithout salt, their country atlord-
ing no brine-springs, and being either unable to buy
from the traders, or wanting the opportunity. Such is
the miserable life wliich these people live, owing to
the dreariness of the climate, the want of agriculture,
and their own improvidence.

The custom of painting their bodies is character-
istic of all savage tribes. The native Britons Ibrmer-
]y practised it. Those of the island of St. Salvador,
ivhen Columbus first landed in the new world, were
found to paint grotesque figures and ornaments upon
their bodies. The native Brazilians, — the inhabi-
tants of New-Holland, and Van Dieman's Land, and
all the tribes of fSorth America, are more or less in
the practice of employing paint upon their faces, an'^-

231

other parts of their bodies, either with a view of
renderins; themselves more attractive to their friends,
or more terrible to their enemies. The northern
tribes use it upon all occasions. The substances
employed are ochres, clays, native oxyds of iron,
bole, and some other minerals, the production of
their country. The Sioux procure a fine green co-
loured clay, on the banks of the St. Peter's, which
is highly esteemed. They have also a white and red
clay, and a fine red oxide of iron, which are much
employed, and by their admixture, they are ena-
bled to paint themselves of almost any colour.
Red is the colour with which they decorate them-
selves on goino to war, and for this purpose vermi-
lion is sold them by the traders at the rate of eight
dollars per pound. Black, is used when they mourn
the loss of relatives, and for tlias purpose lampblack,
©r soot, mixed with bears oil, is employed.

Of the state of female society among the northern
Indians, I shall say little, because on a review of it, I
find very little to admire, either in their collective
morality, or personal endowments The savage
state is universally found to display itself in the most
striking degree in the situation, dress, personal ac-
complishments, and employments of females, and
these evidences may be looked upon as unerring in-
dexes to the degree of civilization, — to the mental
powers, and to the moral refinements of the other sex.
Doomed to drudgery and hardship from infancy, —
without the elegance of dress, — without either mental
resources, or personal beauty, — what can be said in
favour of the Indian women ! The custom of bind-
ing the feet of female infants in such a manner as to
aaake the toes point inwards, gives them in after life

232

a very awk^^'ard appearance in walking ; and in re^^
gard to the absence of female beauty^ 1 am not ablej
from my own observations, to make a single excep-
tion.

That exceptions exist, however, among some of
the northern tribes, we have the authority of M'Ken-
zie, for asserting. " Of all the nations," he remarks,
" which I have seen on this continent, the Knistenaux
women are the most comely. Their figure is gene-
rally well proportioned, and the regularity of their
features would be acknowledged by the more civi-
lized people of Europe. Their complexion has less
of that dark tinge, which is common to those sava-
ges who have less cleanly habits.

"•It docs not appear, however," he continues, "that
chastity is cotisidered by them as a virtue; or that
fidelity is believed to be essential to the happiness
of wedded life. Though it sometimes happens, that
the infidelity of a wife is punished by the husband,
with the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps life ; such
severity proceeds from its having been practised
without his permission : for a temporary interchange
of wives is not uncommon ; and the offer of their
persons, is considered as a necessary part of the
hospitality due to strangers.

" V/hen a man looses his wife, it is considered as
a duty to marry her sister, if she has one; or he
may if he pleases, have them both at the same
time."*

We here first observed a custom which is preva-
lejit among the northern bands, of inclosing their
dead in coffins bound around with bark, and expos-

* M'Kenzie's Vo3-ages to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans, p.

66:

233

ing them on scaffolds ten or fifteen feet in the air.
This custom is said to have been borrowed by them
from the Sioux, who have practised it from the ear-
liest times. It is not now universal among the Chip-
peways, and they frequently bury their dead in the
European manner. In this case, however, a roof is
built over the grave, which is closed all around, ex-
cept at the head, where a hole is cut through the
bark large enough to put in a wooden dish, with
meats for the use of the dead. If a warrior dies, his
war club and other weapons and ornaments, are bu-
ried with him, as it is supposed, he will require them
in another world. If it is a woman that dies, a pad-
dle and carrying strap are buried with her, that
she may perform the same drudgery in a future
state she is required to do in this. This certainly
implies some notion of immortality, but they do not
appear to have any distinct conceptions of the bo-
dv and soul. It is difficult indeed to reduce their
opinions to any settled points. It is only certain that
they expect to live hereafter in a country far more
beautiful and delightful than the present, — where
there will be perpetual spring, — where game will
be plenty, — and where all the implements they have
made use of in this life, will be required as the
means of ensuring them a support. This idea has
been seized upon, in one of the most happy moments
of the poet of Twickenham.

" Lo, the poor Indian, whose untutored mind
" Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind ;
" His soul proud science never taught to stray
<* Far as the solar walk, or milky way ;
" Yet simple nature to his hope has giv'n,
*' Behind the cloud-topt hill, an humbler heav'n 5
30

23i

" Some safer world in depth of woods enibrac'd,

*' Some happier island in the watery waste,

" Where slaves once more their native land beholdj

" No fiends torment, — no Christians thirst for gold.

*' To be, — contents his natural desire,

** He asks no angel's wing-, no seraph's fire ;

" l>(!t thinks, admitted to that equal sky,

'' His faithful dog shall bear him company." Pope.

LIV. Day. — {July 16M.)— A council was held this
morning with the Sandj-Lake Indians, at their own
solicitation, and several speeches presented to Gov.
Cass, as the representative of the president of the
United States, who is addressed by the title of
" Great Father." These speeches, as they have
been interpreted to us, do not possess the charac-
teristic eloquence of Indian oratory, althougli appa-
rently delivered by the Indians in a very impassion-
ed and animated manner. But it appears, at least
in these instances, that they do not " suit the ac-
tion to the word and the word to the action," as
what we have supposed to be the most impassion-
ed eloquence when heard in the Indian tongue,
has turned out, when translated, to be a tissue of
common place ideas, without passion, eloquence, or
figures. As one of the best specimens of the speech-
es which have generally been addressed to the Gov-
ernor, during our progress through this region, the
following is presented.

" Father, — We are glad you have come among
us, to see how we live, and what kind of a country
we inhabit, and to tell these things to our Great Fa-
ther, the President.

"Father, you see us here, — we are poor, — we
want every thing, — we have neither knives or blan-

235

kets, — guns or powder, — lead or cloth, — kettles or
tomahawks, — tobacco or whiskey. — We hope you
will give us these things.

" Father, we are glad that the President has thought
proper to send you among us, — we are glad to see
his flag wave upon this lake, — we are his children,
— he is our Father, — we smoke the same pipe, — we
take hold of the same tomahawk, — we are insepa-
rable friends. It shall never be said that the Chip-
peways are ungrateful. Father, depend upon this,
and take this pipe of peace as a pledge of our sin-
cerity.

" Father, we are of the race of strong men, — of
good warriors, and good hunters, but we cannot al-
ways kill game, or catch fish. — We can live a great
while upon a little, but we cannot live upon nothing,

" Father, our wild rice is all eaten up, — the buffa-
loes live in the land of our enemies, the Sioux, — we
are hungry, and naked,-i-we are dry and needy.—
We hope you will relieve us.

" Father, the President of the United States is a
very great man, even like a lofty pine upon the
mountain's top. — You are also a great man, — and
the Americans are a great people. Can it be pos-
sible they will allow us to suffer !"

Governor Cass proposed to negoclate a peace be-
tween them and the Sioux. They readily assented,
and are to send some of their old men as embassa-
dors to accompany us to the Falls ot St. Anthony,
on our return from the sources of the Mississippi.

The following tables present a view of the state
of the weather, — the stationary distances, — and the
elevation of the country between the Fond du Lac
and Sandy Lake,

236

METEOROLO GICAL OBSER VA TIONS.

Atmospheric Temperature.

a

a
1
64

WINDS

WpATHER.

A. M. 1 P. M.

Gl 71 Sll2| l( b\ 6| 7\ 8| 9

July 6lh

68

78

—

—

65

54

NE.

Clear. 1

7th

m

71

&7

NE.

Rain.

8th

63

80

64

,69

ENE-

Clear ik wavm.

9th

b7

75

53

61

ENE.

Clear.
Rainy.

10th

53

72

51

—

—

58
56
58
58
70

NE.

nth

5ll

168

49

VVNW

Cloudy & cool.

12th
13th

53

42

—

80

74

58

50
64

NW.

Showery&cloud.

NW.
NW.

Clear.

14th

&7

Clear.

15th

64

78

53

65

NW.

Cloudy with rain.

l6th

50

71

50

57

NNW-

Fair.

111683

670 mean daily temp.

STATIONARY DISTANCES.

From the South-West Company's House, to the foot
of the Grand Portage,

To the Galley, . - - -

To the head of Grand Portage,

To the foot of the Portage aux Coteaux,

To the head of do.

To the mouth of Savannah river, as detailed in
DayLII. - - - -

To the commencement of the Savannah Portage,

Length of Savannah Portage,

To Sandy Lake, at the discharge of the West Sa-
vannah, . - - -

South- West Company's Fort, on Sandy Lake,

Miles,
t

Tot, Miles.

2

2

4

7

11

6

17

U

181-

56}

75

24

99

6

105

18

123

3

126

237
ELEVATION OF THE COUNTRY.

Feet. Total Feet,

Estimated fall of the St. Louis River, from the head
of Lake Superior to the South- West Company's
House, 24 miles, at 2 inches per mile, 4

Thence to the Galley, 4 miles, - - 8 12

To the head of the Grand Portage, - 220 232

To the foot of the Portage aux Coteaux, 2 leagues,

at 3 feet per mile, - - - - 18 250

To the head of the Portage aux Coteaux, (falls not
included,) . _ - -

Goteaux Falls, _ . - -

Thence to the mouth of the Savannah River, as es-
timated by Dr. Wolcott, see Day LIL

Thence to the Savannah Portage,

Thence to the head of the West Savannah,

Descent of the West Savannah.

From the place of embarkation to the first Rapid, 4
miles, at 6 inches per mile,

Descent of the first Rapid,

To the head of the second Rapid, 8 miles, at 6 inches
per mile, - . - _

Descent of the second Rapid,

Thence to the level of Sandy Lake,

Elevation of Sandy Lake above Lake Superior) Feet 527

28

278

14

292

212.6

504.6

18

522.6

30

550.«

2

5

7

4

11

8

19

4.6

23.6

CHAPTER IX.

JOURNEY,

FROM SAJ^BT LAKE TO THE SOURCES OF THE MIS-
SISSIPPI.

r-5;^4

LV. Day.— (Jw/y 17th.)

?V E left the fort at half past nine in the morning,
in three canoes, manned by nineteen voyageurs and
Indians, and provisioned for twelve days. Our par-
ty now, exclusive of the working men, consisted of
Governor Cass, Dr. Wolcott, Capt. Douglass, Lieut.
Mackay, Maj. Forsyth, and myself. The balance
of the expedition, — men, baggage, and canoes, was
left at the Company's establishment. A mile from
the fort we entered the mouth of Sandy Lake River,
which discharges into the Mississippi, two miles
below. Its course is winding, and near its junction
with the Mississippi, it has a rapid where the water
descends three feet in sixty yards. On entering the
Mississippi, we found a strong current, — reddish wa-
ter, a little turbid, — some snags and drifts, — and
alluvial banks, elevated from four to eight feet, bear-
ing a forest of elm, maple, oak, poplar, pine, and ash.
The elm predominates ; maple and oak are com-
mon,— pine, ash, and poplar, sparing. The river
has a width of sixty yards, and the shores are skirt-

239

jed with bull rushes, foille avoine, and tufts of wil-
low. In the course of the day we passed the fol-
lowing rapids, numbered and estimated from the
mouth of Sandy Lake River.

1st Rapid, 3 miles, descent 2 feet in 50 yards
2d - 4 - 5 - 200 -

3d - 3 - 6 - 100 -

4th - 1 - 1 foot in 50 -

5th - 5 - 7 feet in 100 -

6th • 11 - 8 - 200 -

We encamped twenty miles above the sixth rapid
at eight o'clock in the evening, having been eleven
hours in our canoes, and progressed forty-six miles.
The weather has been variable. — At day light there
was a violent wind, attended with rain, which ceas-
ed at nine o'clock. — Cloudy all day, — sun shone out
hot at one o'clock, — then a shower ; cloudy and
cool in the evening. The river has received no
tributary streams ; no islands have been encounter-
ed, nor have any hills been seen, but the country is
low, and swampy at a short distance from the river.
Detached stones of hornblende, sand stone, and
granite, appear upon the rapids. The musquitoes
have been very troublesome.

LVI. Day. — {July 18^^.) — There was a shower of
rain during the night, — it ceased at four o'clock.
We embarked at five, — the weather remained clou-
dy and misty. On ascending one mile, we passed
Swan River, which enters, by a mouth of twenty
yards wide, on the right shore. Loose rocks ap-
pear in the water at its mouth. This stream is sixty
miles long, and originates in Swan Lake, in which
trout are caught. It is rapid for a distance, but ex-
pands to a great width towards its source, where it

240

has a still current, and abounds in wild rice. Thir-
teen leagues above we passed Rapid No. 7, where
the water falls three feet in a hundred and fifty
yards. Trout river enters six miles higher, on
the right side. It is about thirty feet wide at its
mouth, but deep, and widens above. It origin-
ates in Trout Lake, and is connected with Swan
River near its source. Prairie River is four
miles above, and enters on the same side. It is
Jiinetv feet wide at its mouth, — has a considerable
rapid three miles above, but may be ascended with
canoes, through an open prairie country, ninety miles.
It communicates, by short portages, with one of the
western tributaries of St. Louis river, and with
Swan river. We encamped on a sand bank, five
hundred yards above its entrance, having progress-
ed fifty-one miles. The current of the Mississippi
river, this day, has been strong, and a number of
snags and drifts have been encountered. The velo-
city is computed, by Captain Douglass, at 2| miles
per hour. The timber has been much the same as
yesterday, — elm and maple predominate. In the
afternoon we" passed several ridges of pine land
elevated twenty or thirty feet above the water, — and
a few miles below Trout river, came through a fo-
rest of burnt dead pines, which continue about
three miles on either shore. The general course of
the river js west of north ; it is very serpentine, and
the curves short, seldom exceeding a mile, — the
width of the river has been less than yesterday, and
may be computed to average forty yards. Tufts of
willow, grass, and wild rice, skirt the water's edge.
No islands or rock strata are seen, — detached stones,

24i

such as were yesterday noticed, appear in the bed
of the stream at the rapids, and occasionally along
the shore. The banks are the most recent kind of
alluvion, in which very minute shining particles of
mica are seen. 1 he common fresh water muscle is
very abundant along the shore, and some of an ex-
traordinary size. Ducks and plover have been con-
tinually in sight. — The robin, (Jurdus migratorius)
brown thrush, blackbird, crow, and water loon, have
also been noticed. It is not a region favourable to
serpents, and the Indians say that the common garter,
{coluber ccstivus,) and water snake, are the only spe-
cies known. The weather continued cloudy and
cool during the day, and very chilly at night. The
musquitoes have been less annoying in consequence.

LVII. Day.— {July \9th.)—The night was so cold
that water froze upon the bottoms ofour canoes, and
they were encrusted with a scale of ice of the thick-
ness of a knife blade. The thermometer stood at
36'' at sun-rise. There T/as a very heavy dew dur-
ing the night, and a dense fog in the morning. The
forenoon remained cloudy and chilly. Six miles
above our encampment we passed the eighth Rapid,
where the water falls two feet in a hundred yards ;
and half a mile above, the ninth Rapid, which con-
sists of a series of small rapids, extending a thou-
sand yards, in the course of which, there is an aggre-
gate fall of sixteen feet. Four miles above the ter-
mination of the ninth Rapid, we landed at the foot
of the falls of Peckagama, where the river has a de-
scent of twenty feet in three hundred yards. This
forms an interruption to the navigation, and there z§

31

242'

a portage around ibe flills of two hundred and seVeff"*
tj-live yards. The Mississippi, at this fall is com-
pressed to a eighty feet in width, ajid precipitated
over a rugged bed of sand stone, highly inclined to-
wards the northeast. There is no perpendicular
pitch, but the river rushes down a rocky channel,
inclined at an angle of from 35° to 40°. The view
is wild and picturesque. Immediately at the head
of the falls is the first island noticed in the river. It
is small, rocky, — covered with spruce and cedar, —
and divides the channel nearly isi its centre, at the
point where the fall commences. In crossing this
portage, 1 observed the small bush-whortleberry,
(yaccinmm dumosum.) A portion of the berries
^vere already ripe. After passing the falls of Pec-
kagama, a striking change is witnessed in the cha-
racter of the country. We appear to have attain-
ed the summit level of waters. The forests of maple,
elm, and oak, cease, and tiie river winds in the most
devious mariner tlu'ough an extensive prairie, cover-
ed w ith tali grass, w ild rice,*tind rushes. This prai-
rie has a mean width of three miles, and is bounded
by ridges of dry sand, of moderate elevation, and
covered sparingly with yellow pine. Sometimes the
river w^ashes close against one of these sand ridges,
— then turns into the centre of the prairie, or cross-
es to the opposite side ; but nothing can equal its
sinuosities, — we move towards all points of the com-
pass in tb;^ same hour, — and we appear to be wind-
ing about in an endless labyrinth, without approach-
ir.g nearer to the object in view. In one instance,
we row ed nine miles by the windings of the stream,
and advanced but one mile In a direct line. While
sitting in our canoes, in the centre of this prairie.

243

the rank growth of grass, rushes, &c. completely hid
the adjoining foresls from view, and it appeared as
if we were lost in a boundless field of waving grass.
Nothing was to be seen but the sky above, and the
lofty fields of nodding grass, oats, and reeds upon
each side of the stream. The monotony of the view
can only be conceived by those who have been
at sea, — and we turned away with the same kind of
interest to admire the birds, and water fowl, who
have chosen this region, for their abode. The cur-
rent of the river is gentle, its velocity not exceed-
ing one mile per hour: — its width is about eighty
feet. It receives a tributary from the left at the dis-
tance of forty miles above the fills of Peckagama,
called Vermilion river, and three miles above, an-
other called Chevreuil, or Deer river, from the right,
bank. We encamped upon the prairie, six miles
above Chevreuil river, at a late hour, having ascend-
ed sixty miles. Ducks have been abundant through-
out the day. We saw no plover in the prairies, al-
though they were common below. The black-
bird has been constantly in sight, and the small
white gull, such as is common upon the lakes, has
been so abundant as to annoy our progress, parti-
cularly by its scream, which is harsh and unplea-
sant. These birds had their nests all alono- the
banks, and were constantly alarmed for their youno-.
The loon, the wild goose, and the heron, have also
been observed. The weather has been cloudy,
with occasional gleams of sunshine, and chilly to-
wards evening. At the place of our encampment
we found a very delicious species of red raspberry,
growing upon a small bush of the size of a straw-
berry vine. Here also, as night approached, we

244

first noticed the iire-fly, which has not before been
seen upon the Mississippi.

LVIil. Day.— (/://^ 20//i.)--We had rain during
the night,-— the morning was cloudy, with a heavy
fog. We embarked at half past five ; our route lay
through a prairie country, similar in every respect
to that yesterday passed. At the distance of ten
miles we passed the mouth of Leech river, entering
on the left. This is the main southwestern fork of
the Mississippi, and is ascended about fifty miles, to
its source, in Leech lake, where the American fur
company have an establishment. This lake is twelve
miles across, and was considered, by Lieut. Pike, as
the main source of the Mississippi. " The fort," he
pbserves, " is situated on the west side of the lake,
in 47" 16' 13" north latitude. It is built near the
shore, on the declivity of a rising ground, having an
inclosed garden, of about five acres, on the north-
west. It is a square stockade, of one hundred and
fifty feet, — the pickets being sixteen feet in length,
three feet under ground, and thirteen feet above,
— and are bound together by horizontal bars, each
ten feet long. Pickets of ten feet are likewise drove
into the ground, on ihe inside of the work, opposite
the ape' turcs between the large pickets. At the
>yest and east angles are bastions pierced for fire
arms."* The Leech lake band of Chippeways
are located in the vicinity of the fort. It consists
of one thousand one hundred and twenty souls, one
hundred and fifty of whom are w^arriors. The prin-
cipal chiefs are Eskibugeckoga^ or, Flat-Mouth,

* Pike's Expedition?

245

Obiguciie, or the chief of the Land, and Oo/e, or the
Burnt. They hunt the beaver, marten, muskrat,
otter, and black fox. The moose is sometimes kill-
ed. They subsist chiefly upon the flesh of these an-
imals, and obtain European and American fabrics
in exchange for their furs. Their neighbours are
the Assenniboins, (a revolted band of the Sioux,)
on the west, — the Upper Red Cedar, and Red Lake
tribes of Chippeways, on the north, — and the Sandy
Lake Indians on the east and south. Leech-lake
river runs its whole length through a savannah, — is
very serpentine, — and in many places not more than
ten or fifteen yards wide, although it has a depth of
twelve or fifteen feet. The current of the Missis-
sippi river, above its junction, is perceptibly strong-
er, and the water quite clear. The bends are also
more abrupt, and the width of the stream a little
more than half what it maintains below. It may be
estimated above the Leech-lake branch, at sixty
feet, but still preserves a good depth. From Sandy
lake river, to the talis of Peckagama, the mean fall
of the river may be estimated at six inches per mile,
exclusive of the rapids ; — from thence to the con-
fluence of the Leech-lake branch, at two inches per
mile, and thence to Lake Winnipec, at four inches
per mile.

At the distance of thirty -five miles above Leech
river, we entered Little lake Winnipec, which is
about five miles long, and three in width. The wa-
ter is clear. Its shores are low and marshy, covered
with rushes, spear grass, and wild rice, which in.
some places extend quite across the lake, giving it
rather the appearance of a marsh. On passing
through this, the river again assumes the size and

2i(S

general appearance it had below, for a distance of
ten miles, v;hen it opens into a spacious bay, which
is the northeastern extremity of the Upper lake
Winnipec. We proceeded through this, and en-
camped on the north shore of the lake, at the mouth
of Turtle Portage river. Lake Winnipec is about
fourteen miles long by nine in width, and its waters
are deep and transparent. Us shores are generally
low and covered, at the water's edge, with rushes,
and wild oats. Upon its banks we find oak, maple,
poplar, birch, and white pine. It receives four tribu-
taries. Turtle Portage river. Round Lake river,
Thornberry river, and an inlet from the southwest,
which being somewhat larger than the others, pre-
serves the name of the Mississippi. Turtle Portage
river, communicates through several intermediatie
little lakes, with the Rainy lakes, and the Lake of
the Woods. The journey to the Upper Rainy Lake
is performed in eight days, and from thence to the
Lake of the Woods in ten days.

Round Lake river is the outlet of a lake which is
connected by its higher tributaries, with the waters
of Turtle Portage river, and the Rainy Lakes.
Thornberry river, or La riviere des Epinettes, is
smaller than tiie tv>'o former, and is not ascended
any considerable distance in canoes. Its origin
is also in lakes. The Mississippi branch is naviga-
ble fifty miles to its source in the Upper Red Cedar
Lake.

On passing through Little Lake Winnipec, we met
a couple of Indian women in a canoe, being the first
Tiatives seen on the river, of whom our interpreter
made enquiry as to the course of the river, and the
nature of the country above. They manifested no

247

alarm on our approach, and communicated what
they knew frankly and without reserve. They had
come down the river for the purpose of observing
the state of the wild rice, and at what places it
could be most advantageously gathered. None,
however, was yet sufficiently ripe to admit of har-
vesting, but this precaution evinces a degree of
care and foresight, which is not always found
among ravages.

hi the course of this day we have observed, ei-
ther upon the river, or its banks, the wild goose,
duck, turkey-buzzard, raven, eagle, king-fisher, {at-
ccdo alci/on,) and blackbird.

LIX. Day. (^July 2lsL)—AYe continued our journey
at half past four o'clock in the morning. Passing
around the northern shore of Lake Winnipec, we
observed at a distance a rocky island of such snowy
whiteness, as to give it an appearance of singular
novelty, and to baffle every conjecture as to the sub-
stance of which it was composed. On reaching its
shores, we found it to be a confused pile of water-
worn fragments of granite, hornblende, quartz, &c.
covered with a thick limey incrustation, produced
from the excrescence of the myriads of water-fowl
who resort to it. These birds were driven away in
flocks by our approach, and we particularly noticed
the wild goose, black duck, pelican, cormorant,
brant, and plover. On landing a dead pelican (pc-
lecanus onocratolus,) was found upon the rocks, ha-
ving apparently been killed that morning, either in
a strife among its own species or through disease.—^
No marks of violence, or external disease could
however be observed. This is one of the largest of

■ 248

web-fooled water fowl, often exceeding in aize tfie'
swan. It lias been known to weigh twenty-five
pounds, and to measure eleven feet between the tips
of the wings. Its most remarkable character, and
one which distinguishes it from all other birds, is a
large membranaceous pouch extending from the
mandible nine or ten inches down the front of the
neck. This serves as a repository for its food, and
when empty, the bird has the power of wrinkling it up.
It has the colour and consistence of a wetted bladder
and is naked to appearance, but on examination is
found to be partially covered with a very fine downy
substance. These pouches are fashioned by the In-
dians into caps for summer wear, being very light and
airy. Notwithstanding th^ great bulk of this bird,
it is said to be very expert upon the wing, and soars
to a great height, which is in some measure attribu-
table to the extreme lightness of its bones, which
do not altogether exceed a pound and a half in
weight.

Disregarding artificial arrangements, all w^ater
fowl may be considered under these great natural di-
visions, namely, those of the penguin kind, with short
blunt wings, round bills, and legs hid in the abdo-
men, which dive in quest of food; — those of the
jTull kind, with long slender legs, sharp pointed
wings, and round bills, which fly along the water to
seize their prey; — and those of the goose kind, with
broad flat bills, and heavy-quilled wings, which gen-
erally lead harmless lives, and subsist mostly upon
vegetables and insects. The pelican, from its sin-
gular conformation, will not, strictly speaking, fall
under any of these denominations, although it seems
more nearly allied to the family of the goose. Its

249

feathers are white all over the body, and its wings,
which are strong and heavy, clothed with a thick
plumage of quills and downy feathers. Its legs are
red, and its bill of a greenish tinge at the base, but
changing to a reddish blue towards its extremity,
which is slightly hooked downward. The eyes
are small, compared with the magnitude of the head,
and altogether the bird has a heavy and demure
look. Like the heron and the cormorant, the peli-
can is an inordinate eater, and is represented to be
indolent and stupid to the last degree.

" This species," says Pennant, " extends over most
parts of the torrid zone, and many parts of the warm-
er temperate. It is found in Europe, on the lower
parts of the Danube, and in all parts of the Medi-
terranean Sea, almost all Africa, and Asia iMinor.
Are seen in incredible numbers about the Black and
Caspian Seas ; and come far up the rivers, and into
the inland lakes of the Asiatic Russian empire ; but
grow scarcer eastward, and are seldom met with so
far north as the Siberian lakes ; yet are not unknown
about that of Baikal. They are common on the
coast of New Holland, where they grow to an enor-
mous size. They feed upon fish, which they take
sometimes by plunging from a great height in the
air, and seizing, like the gannet : at other times they
fish in concert, swimming in flocks, and forming a
large circle in the great rivers, which they gradually
contract, beating the water with their wings and feet,
in order to drive the fish into the centre ; which
when they approach, they open their vast mouths,
and fill their pouches with their prey, then incline
their bills to empty the bag of the water ; after
which they swim to shore and eat their booty in qui-

32

25a

et As the pouch is capable of holding a dozen
quarts of water, a guess may be made of the quan-
tity of fishes it can contain. 1'he French very pro-
perly call them Grande Gosiers, or Great Throats. It
is said that when they make their nests in the dry
deserts, they carry the water to their young in their
vast pouches, and that the lions and beasts of prey
come there to quench their thirst, sparing the young,
the cause of this salutary provision. Possibly, on
this account, the Egyptians style this bird the camel
of the river : — the Persians taciib^ or water-carrier.*"
The popular fable that this bird feeds its young
"with blood from its own breast, owes its origin to the
circumstance of its permitting them to eat from its
pouch the food which it collects for that purpose.

On quitting Pehcan Island, we steered northwest
across the bay, and entered the mouth of the Mis-
sissippi Hilet, which we pursued up fifty miles to its
origin, in Upper Red Cedar or Cassinaf Lake, where
we arrived at three o'clock in the afternoon. This
may be considered the true source of the Mississip-
pi River^ although the greatest body of water is said
to come down the Leech Lake Branch. The river
between Lake Winnipec and Cassina Lake winds
through a prairie-valley, a mile in width, which is
bounded by ridges of sandy land covered with yel-
low and white pine. The river pursues the same
devious course, and its banks are overgrown with
wild oats, rushes, and grass. Cassina Lake is about

* Arctic Zoology.

1 1 have proposed to Che Topographical Engineer of the Expe-
dition, to designate the lake by this term, in order to prevent its
being confounded with Red Cedar Lake, which is situated about
250 miles below. It is in allusion to Governor Cass.

251

eight miles long by six in width, and presents
to the eye a beautiful sheet of transparent water.
(^See the perspective view upon the Map.) Its banks
are overshadowed by elm, maple, and pine. Along
its margin there are some fields of Indian rice, rushes
and reeds : in other places, there is an open beach
of clean pebbles, driven up by the waves, but no
rock strata appear. The pike, carp, trout, and cat-
fish are caught in its waters. It has an island towards
its western extremity covered with trees, from which
it derives its local name, but no red cedar is found
around its shores. This lake is supplied by two in-
lets called Turtle and La Beesh rivers, both tribu-
tary on the northwestern margin. The former ori-
ginates in Turtle Lake, near the banks of the Rainy
Lakes, and after pujrsujng a southerly course for
forty miles, in which distance it opens into several
small lakes, enters Red Cedar or Cassina Lake by a
mouth of fifteen yards in width. This branch is as-
cended with canoes passing to the Lake of the
Woods, and has three short portages.

La Beesh river is the outlet oi Lake La Beesh,
which lies six days journey, with a canoe, west-
northwest of Cassina Lake, and has no inlets. A
short distance from it^ shores, the waters run north
into the Red River of Hudson's Bay. Its outlet has
several rapids^and expands into a number of inter-
mediate lakes, the largest of which are lakes Traver-
se, Oganga, and Kiskahop. It also receives several
tributaries, all of which originate in small lakes. It is
only capable of being ascended in canoes, during
the spring and autumnal freshets, and then there are
several portages. This branch is considered the

252

largest inlet, and preserves, in the language of the
vojageurs, the name of the Mississippi.

On the north shore of this lake, on a cleared emi-
nence, is a village of Chippeways, of ten lodges and
sixty souls, under Wiscoitp, or the Sweet. They receiv-
ed the party with every mark of friendship, and pre-
sented us an abundance of the most delicious red rasp-
berries, and a quantity of pemican,or pounded moose
meat. Here we also found two Frenchmen, who have
been in the employ of the American Fur Company,
and located themselves at this spot, for the purpose
of trading with the Indians. In the person of one of

these, Mons. D , we witnessed one of the most

striking objects of human misery. It appears, that in
the prosecution of the fur trade, he had, according to
the custom of the country, taken an Indian wife, and
spent several winters in that inclement region. Dur-
ing the last, he was, however, caught in a severe
snow storm, and froze both his feet in such a man-
ner, that they dropped off shortly after his return to
his wigwam. In this helpless situation, he was sup-
ported some time by his wife, who caught fish in the
lake ; but she at last deserted him ; and on our ar-
rival, he had subsisted several months upon the pig
weed which grew around his cabin. As he was un-
able to walk, this had been thrown in by his country-
man, or by the Indians, and appeared ttb have been the
extent of their benevolence. We found him seated
in a small bark cabin, on a rush mat, with the
stumps of his legs tied up with deerskins, and wholly
destitute of covering. He was poor and emaciated
to the last degree — his beard was long— cheeks fal-
len in — eyes sunk, but darting a look of despair — and
every bone in his body visible through the skin. He

2S3

aould speak no English, but was continually uttering
curses in his mother tongue, upon his own existence,
and apparently, upon all that surrounded him. We
could only endure the painful sight for a moment,
and hastened from this abode of human wretched-
ness; but before leaving the village, Governor Cass
sent him a present of Indian goods, groceries, and
ammunition, and engaged a person to convey him to
the American Fur Company's Fort at Sandy Lake,
where he could still receive the attention due to suf-
fering humanity. These donations were swelled by
every individual of the party, each one taking a
pleasure in being able to contribute something, with
a view either to clothe and lodge him with decency
and comfort, or to enable him to purchase provi-
sions, for his subsistence, from the Indians.

The latitude of this lake as determined by Lieut.
Pike, in 1806, is 47° 42' 40." Owing to cloudy weather,
no opportunity of testing the correctness of this ob'^er-
vation, was presented to us ; but Capt. Douglass had
an observation fifty eight miles below, and calculated
the latitude of that place to be 47° 38'. The distance
from Sandy Lake, by the windings of the river is
two hundred and seventy one miles, and from the
Fond du Lac, at the head of Lake Superior, 429. It is
but thirty miles by land south to Leech Lake, and is
walked in the winter season, when the swamps are
frozen over, in one day. It is about one hundred
miles west-northwest, to Red Lake, where there is a
band of Chippeways of one hundred and sixty war-
riors; and a hundred and twenty miles northwest to
the Lake of the Woods, via Turtle Portage, and the
Rainy Lakes ; but in a direct line about half that
distance. Cassina Lake, the source of the Mis-

254

sissippi, is situated seventeen dec^rees north oi
the Bahze on the Gulph of Mexico, and two thou-
sand nine hundred and seventy-eight miles, pursuing
the course of the river. Estimating the distance to
Lake La Beesh, its extreme northwestern inlet at six-
ty miles, which I conclude to be within bounds, we
have a result of three thousand and thirty-eight miles,
as the entire length of this wonderful river, which ex-
tends over the surface of the earth in a direct line,
more than half the distance from the Arctic Circle
to the Equator. It is also deserving of remark, that
its sources lie in a region of almost continual winter,
while it enters the Ocean under the latitude of per-
petual verdure ; and at last, as if disdaining to ter-
minate its career at the usual point of embouchure
of other large rivers, has protruded its banks into the
Gulf of Mexico, more than a hundred miles beyond
any other part of the main. To have visited both the
sources and the mouth of this celebrated stream^
falls to the lot of few^ and I believe there is no person
living, beside myself, of whom the remark can now be
made. On the 10th of July, 1819, I passed out of the
mouth of the Mississippi in a brig bound for New-
York, after descending it in a steam-boat from St;
Louis, and little thinking i should soon revisit its wa-
ters ; yet, on the 21st of July of the following year, I
found myself seated in an Indian canoe, upon its
source.

In deciding upon the physical character of the
Mississippi, it may be advantageously considered
under four natural divisions, as indicated by the per-
manent differences in the colour of its waters, — the
geological character of its bed and banks, — its for-
est trees and other vegetable productions,— rits velcv

il55

Citj. — the difficulties it opposes to navigation, — and
other natural appearances and circumstances.

Originating in a region of lakes, upon the table
lands, which throw their waters north into Hudson's
Bay, — south into the Gulph of Mexico, — and east in-
to the Gulf of St. Lawrence — it pursues its course
to the falls of Peckagama, a distance of two hundred
and thirty miles, through a low prairie, covered with
wild rice, rushes, sword grass, and other aquatic
plants. During this distance, it is extremely devious
as to course and width, sometimes expanding into
small lakes, at others, narrowing into a channel of
about eighty feet. It is about sixty feet wide on its
exit from Red Cedar or Cassina Lake, with an ave-
rage depth of two feet ; but from the junction of the
Leech Lake fork, increases to a hundred feet in
width, with a corresponding increase of depth. Its
current, during this distance, is still and gentle ; and
its mean velocity may be estimated at a mile and a
half per hour, with a descent of three inches per
mile. This is the favourite resort of water- fowl, and
amphibious quadrupeds.

At the falls of Peckagama, the first rock stratum^
and the first wooded island, is seen. Here the
river has a fall of twenty feet; and from this to the
falls of St. Anthony, a distance of six hundred and
eighty-five miles, exhibits its second characteristic
division. At the head of the falls of Peckagama,
the prairies entirely cease ; and below, a forest of
elm, maple, birch, oak, and ash, overshadows the
stream. The black walnut (juglans nigra) is first
aeen below Sandy Lake river, and the sycamore be-
low the river De Corbeau. The river, in this dis-
tance, has innumerable well wooded islands, and re-

256

ceives a number of tributaries, the largest of which
is the river De Corbeau, its great southwestern fork.
The Pine, Elk, Sac, and Crow rivers, also enter
on the west, and the St. Francis and Missisawgaie-
gon, on the east. The course of the river, aUhough
serpentine, is less so, than above the falls of Pecka-
gama, and its bends are not so short and abrupt. Its
mean width may be estimated at three hundred feet
until the junction of the De Corbeau, and below that
at two hundred and fifty yards. Its navigation is im-
peded, agreeably to a memorandum which I have
kept, by thirty-five rapids, nineteen ripples, and two
minor falls, called the Little and the Big Falls, in all of
which the river has an aggregate descent of tw o hun-
dred and twenty four feet in fourteen thousand six hun-
dred and forty yards, or about eight miles. The mean
fall of the current, exclusive of the rapids, may be
computed at six inches per mile, and its velocity at
three miles per hour. In the course of this distance
it receives several small turbid streams, and acquires
a brownish hue, but still preserves its transparency,
and is palatable drink-water. A few miles above
the river De Corbeau, on the east side, we observe
the first dry prairies, or natural meadows, and they
continue to the falls of St. Anthony. These prairies
are the great resort of the buffalo, elk, and deer,
and are the only part of the banks of the Mississippi
where the buffalo is now to be found. Granite rocks
appear at several of the rapids, in rolled pieces, and
in beds ; and in some places attain an elevation of
one or two hundred feet above the level of the water,
but the banks of the river are generally alluvial.

At the Falls of St. Anthony, the river has a per-
pendicular pitch of forty feet, and from this to its

257

Junction with the Missouri, a distance of eight hun»
dred and forty three miles, it is bounded by limestone
bluffs, which attain various elevations from one to
four hundred feet, and present a succession of the
most sublime and picturesque views. This forms the
third characteristic change of the Mississippi. The
river prairies cease, and the rocky bluffs commence
precisely at the falls of St. Anthony. Nine miles be-
low^ it receives the St. Peter's from the west, and is suc-
cessively swelled on that side by the Ocano, Iowa,
Turkey, Desmoines, and Salt rivers, and on the east
by the St. Croix, Chippeway, Black, Ousconsing,
Rock, and Illinois. One hundred miles below
the Falls of St. Anthony, the river expands into a
lake, called Pepin, which is twenty-four miles long
and four in width. It is, on issuing from this lake,
that the river first exhibits, in a striking manner, those
(extensive and moving sand bars, innumerable islands
and channels, and drifts and snags, which continue to
tharacterize it to the ocean. Its bends from this point
onward are larger, and its course more direct; and
although its waters are adulterated by several dark
coloured and turbid streams, it may still be consi-
dered transparent. The principal impediments to
navigation in this distance are the Desmoine, and
Rock river rapids. The latter extends six miles,
and opposes an effectual barrier to steam-boat navi-
gation, although keel boats and barges of the largest
class, may ascend. This rapid is three hundred and
fiinety miles above St. Louis.

The fourth change in the physical aspect of this
river is at the junction of the Missouri, and this is a
total and complete one, the character of the Mis-
sissippi fjeing entirely lost in that of the Missouri,

.33

2.08

The latter is, in fact, much the largest stream of th^
two, and carries its characteristic appearances to
the ocean. It should also have carried the name,
but its exploration took place too long after the
course of the Mississippi had been perpetuated in
the written geography of the country, to render an
alteration in this respect, either practicable or expe-
dient. The waters of the Mississippi at its conflu-
ence with the Missouri, are moderately clear, and
of a greenish hue.~The Missouri is turbid and opake,
of a greyish-white colour, and during its floods,
which happen twice a year, communicates, almost
instantaneously, to the combined stream its predo-
minating qualities, but towards tl>e close of the sum-
mer season, when it is at its lowest stage of water, the
streams do not fully incorporate for twenty or thirty iJHj
miles, but preserve opposite sides of the river; and
I have observed this phenomenon at the town of
Herculaneum, which is forty-eight miles below the
junction. The water in this part of the river cannot
be drank until it has been set aside to allow the mud
to settle.. The distance from the mouth of the Mis-
souri to the Gulf of Mexico is one thousand two hun-
dred and twenty miles, in the course of which it re-
ceives from the west, the Merrimack, St. Francis,
White, Arkansas, and Red rivers ; and from the east,
the Kaskaskia, Great Muddy, Ohio, Wolf, and Yazoo.
This part of the river is more particularly charac-
terized by snags and sawyers, — falling-in banks and
islands; — sand bars and mud banks; — and a channel
■which is shifting by every flood, and of such extreme
velocity, that it was formerly thought it could not be
navigated by ve?isels propelled with sails. Subsequent
experience has shown this conjecture to be unfoun-

259

ded, although a strong wind is required for its ascent.
It is daily navigated in ships of from four hun-
dred to eight hundred tons burden, from the Ba-
lize to New Orleans, a distance of one hundred
miles, and could be ascended higher were it neces-
sary ; but the commerce of the river above New Or-
leans is now carried on, in a great measure, by steam-
boats. The width of the river opposite St. Louis
is one mile ; it is somewhat less at New Orleans,
and still less at its disembochure. A bar at its
mouth prevents ships drawing more than eighteen
feet water from entering. This river is occupied by
different bands of the Chippeway Indians from its
sources, to the Buffalo Plains in the vicinity of the
upper St. Francis, the precise limit being a matter
of dispute, and the cause of the long war between
them and the Sioux. The Sioux bands claim from
thence to the Prarie du Che in, and the Foxes and
Sacs to the river Desmoines. From this vicinity to
the Gulf of Mexico the hidian title has been ex-
tinguished by the United States Government either
through purchase, treaty, or conquest, and we have
now the complete control of this river and all its
tributary streams, with the exception of the upper
part of Red River. The wild rice, (^zezania aqua-
tica^) is not found on the waters of the Mississippi
south of the forty-first degree of north latitude, nor
the Indian reed, or cane, north of the thirty-eighth.
These two productions characterize the extremes of
this river. It has been observed by McKenzie, that
the former is hardly known, or at least, does not
come to maturity, north of the fiftieth dei,ree of
north latitude. The alhgator is first seen below
the junction of the Arkansas. The paroquet is

260

fonnd as far north as the mouth of the llhnois, anS
flocks have occasionally been seen as high as Chi-
cago. The name of this river is derived from the
Algonquin language, one of the original tongues of
our continent, which is now spoken nearly in its
primeval purity by the different bands of Chippe-
"ways ; — less so by the Knistineaux and Ottaways ; —
"with great corruptions by the Foxes, Sacs, and Pot-
towatomies, and some other tribes ; — and in various
dialects by the five bands of Iroquois of New-York.
It is a compound of the word Missi, signifying greaf^
and Scpe^ a river. The fonneris variously pronoun^
ced viissil or michil, as in Michilimackinac ; — michi
as in Michigan ; — Missu — as in Missouri ; — and missis
as in Mississineway, and Mississippi. The variation
does not appear greater than we should expect in an
unwritten language. They have no other word
to express the highest degree of magnitude either
in a moral or physical sense, and it may be consid-
ered as synonymous not only with our word great,
but also, magnificent, — supreme,- — stupendous, —
sublime,— enormous, — extensive, — prodigious, — am-
ple, &c. — words which are certainly not synony-
mous, in our language, but have only one term
by which they can be translated into theirs.
The word Sippi^ may be considered as the English
pronunciation, (derived through the medium of the
French) o^ Sepc, and affords an instance of an Indian
term, of much melody, being corrupted by Europe-
ans, into one that has a harsh and hissing sound.

No attempt has heretofore been made to deter-
mine the elevation of that part of the American con-
tinent which gives origin to the Mississippi, the St.
Lawrence, and the Red River of the North; —

261

and from the Immense distance of this summit level
from the ocean, and the difficulties that must attend
the survey, it is probable that many years may elapse
before this point will be determined by actual ob-
servation. With a view, however, of approaching
the probable altitude, 1 have estimated from the
best data I could command, the descent of the dif-
ferent rapids, — streams, and falls in the whole route,
with the elevation of the highlands which separate
the waters of Lake Superior from those of the Mis-
sissippi, and the descent of the streams flowing into
the latter; and I shall here present the results of
these observations. The estimates have always
been made uj>on the spot, and noted in a particular
book kept for that purpose, and I have made it a con-
stant practice to avail myseliof the judgment of the
members of the expedition, in deciding upon the
mean velocity of streams, — the heights of falls and
rapids, and the elevation of highlands; and feel
particularly indebted to the observations of Gov.
Cass, and Doct. Wolcott. Taking the elevation of
Lake Erie as determined by the actual survey of the
New-York Canal Commissioners for a basis, we find
the surface of Lake Superior to be six hundred and
forty-one feet above the Atlantic ocean. From the
head of this lake, following up the St. Louis river to
the Savannah portage, and from thence across the
dividing ground, to the spot where we first strike the
waters of the Mississippi, at the head of the west
Savannah, the aggregate elevation, (as detailed in
Chap. 8,) may be estimated at five hundred and fif-
ty feet. The descent of this stream into Sandy Lake,
and from thence into the Mississippi river, as given
at p^ge 235, will reduce this estimate by the s^m of

2G2

sixty feet. From the junction of Sandy Lake river,
to the principal source of the Mississip[)i in Cassi-
na lake, we attain an elevation agreeably to the an^
nexed schedule* of one hundred and sixty-two ket^
which superadded to the former estimates, shews the
Mississippi river to originate at an altitude of thirteen
hundred and thirty feet above the Atlantic. This is thirty
feet higher than the Alleghany mountains in Penn-
sylvania, but less by two hundred and fifty feet, than
the highest peak (New Beacon) of the Highlands of
the Hudson. What the descent of the river La
Beesh, the principal inlet of Cassina lake, may be,
we cannot determine, as we have not explored that
stream, but the Indians represent it to have many
rapids. Taking the length of the Mississippi, how-
ever, from Cassina lake, to the ocean, this result will
give it a mean descent of two feet, 2 \\^ inches
per mile, the falls of St. Anthony and Lake Pepin,
inclusive, — for what the estimate would loose by, the
perpendicular pitch of the former, is compensated
by the dead level of twenty-four miles in the latter.

*DESCEJVr OF THE MISSISSIPPI:

Feet. Total Feet.

Rapids above the junction of Sandy Lake river

numbered from 1 to 6, see Day LIV. 29

Rapid No. 7, 3 31

Rapid No. 8, 2 33

Rapid No. 9, l6 49

Falls of Peckagama, 20 69

Mean descent of the Mississippi from Cassina

Jake to the falls of Peckagama, 170 niilesj at

3 inches per mile, 42-9 11 1*6

Mean fall of the Mississippi from the falls of

Peckagama to the junction of Sandy Lake

river, 102 miles, at 6 inches per mile, 51 l63

263

To those who are conversant with the hydrography
of rivers, this result will communicate a better notion
of the rapidity of the Mississippi, than the most la-
boured description of the difficulties of its ascent. —
1 am not aware of any fallacies in these calculations,
but think they have generally been made within
bounds, and that whenever the altitude is determin-
ed by scientific measurement it will be found to ex-
ceed the present result.

There is no part of the Mississippi river which
originates in the territories of British America. The
northern boundary line of the United States will
probably run a hundred miles north of its extreme
source ; but this is a point which still remains unset-
tled between the two governments, and some diffi-
culties, it is apprehended, may prevent a ready ad-
justment of this line. The treaty of I7(i3 wljich de-
signates the limits of the United States, fixes the
northern boundary as a line drawn through the
great chain of lakes to the head of Lake Superior,
thence by the most practicable water communica-
tion to the Lake of the Woods, and from its most
northwestern extremity due ivest to the Mississippi.
It is well ascertained that a line drawn due west
from the northwestern extremity of the Lake of the
Woods, would not strike the sources of the Missis-
sippi. McKenzie states the northwestern point of
the Lake of the Woods to lie in north latitude 49*
37', and west longitude from Greenwich, 04° 31'.

Mr. Thompson, the Astronomer to the Northwest
Company, determined the latitude of Red Cedar or
Cassina lake to be 47° 38' ; which is not, however,
presumed to be entirely correct. The great north-
ern bend of the Missouri is laid down by Lewis and

264

Clark in north latitude 47'' 32, and the river above
that point is described as running south of west^ so
that a line drawn in the manner directed, from the
Lake of the Woods, would not strike either of these
streams. This was anticipated at the conclusion of
Jay's treaty in 1794, but nothing further was agreed
upon in this respect, than that the line should be es-
tablished by a negociation, according to the spirit of
the former treaty, to the principles of justice, and
the mutual convenience of the parties. No provision
is made for it in the treaty of Ghent.

Some difficulty appears also to exist as to the true^
construction of that part of the treaty which re-
quires a line to be drawn from the head of Lake Su-
perior by the most practicable water communication
to the lake of the woods. There are two grand
routesVf communication pursued by the north west
traders namely; — L Byway of the Grande Portage,
commencing on the north shore of lake Superior,
four hundred and eighty miles from the Sault de St.
Marie, which leads through a succession of small
lakes to the Rainy lakes, and thence to the Lake of
the Woods : — 2. By the St. Louis river and Savan-
nah Portage into Sandy Lake and the Mississippi, and
thence through lake Winnipec and across the Turtle
Portage into the Rainy lakes, or, — by following up the
St. Louis to its source which is near the borders of
the little Rainy lake. The first route has long been
the thoroughfare of the northwest company, and al-
though less travelled now than formerly, is the most
direct, expeditious, and practicable route; and was
the only one in use at the conclusion of the treaty. —
The United States claim this as the northern bounda-
ry, and it has accordingly obtained upon all our maps.

265

In the maps of the north west company, however, thfe
line is drawn through the St. Louis river. The terri-
tory in dispute is equal in extent to any of the origin-
al states of the confederation, Virginia, Pennsylvania,
and New-York excepted. This part of the bounda-
ry will come under the cognizance of the commis-
sioners appointed under the treaty of Ghent.

Finding it impracticable to proceed at this season
of the year, in canoes to lake La Beesh, an immedi-
ate return was here determined upon, and we em-
barked at five o'clock in the afternoon on our de-
scent. Crossing the lake we passed down the Mis-
sissippi eighteen miles and encamped on the right
bank of the river at twilight.

LX. Day. {Juhj 22(/.) — Quitting our encampment
before day light, we reached lake Winnipec at eight
o'clock, and performed the traverse against a strong
head wind. This occupied tw^o hours, during which
our canoes were violently tossed upon the waves,
and the voyageurs manifested some apprehensions
for our safety. Entering the outlet of this lake
which is the Mississippi, we left our encampment of
the 20th on our right, and successively passing little
Winnipec or Rush lake, and the confluence of
Leech lake river, we descended to within ten miles
of the spot of our encampment on the 19th, having
progressed altogether a distance of ninety-eight
miles. In the course of the day we passed nine In-
dian canoes on their ascent. They were freighted
with rolls of birch bark, of the kind employed for
canoes, and with bundles of rushes of which they
manufacture matts for bedding and for covering their

34

266

The weather continued cloudy, tvith
wind, and occasional showers of rain.

LXf. Day. — (/?'(y 23(/.) — Between our sufferings
from the stings of the musquitoes, and our anxiety to
rejoin our friends at Sandy lake, we obtained lit-
tle rest, and decamped at a quarter past four in
the mornin2". We reached the falls of Peckasjama
at one o'clock, and spent forty minutes in crossing
the portage with our baggage and canoes. We now
successively passed the Prairie and Trout rivers, and
proceeded twenty-eight miles below our encamp-
ment of the l8th, distance nirvety-eight miles. —
Weather cloudy, with rain. During the forenoon we
met a canoe of Chippeways on their ascent, and
passing with rapidity, merely exchanged the com-
mon salutation of bon jour^ a term they have bor-
rowed from the French. Towards evening, an an-
imal of singular appearance, supposed to be the
Wolverine, was seen swimming across the river, but
our efforts to take it proved unavailing. Such are
the incidents of a voyage in this remote region.

LXIl. Day.— (/w^ 21//j,) — A change of wind took
place daring the night, and we were favoured with
the most delightful weather. Proceeding under the
double influence of a strong current and the force
of our paddles, we progressed with surprising rapidi-
ty, and at two o'clock in the afternoon landed at the
Southwest Company's Fort on Sandy lake, a distance
of seventy-two miles, having performed on our re-
turD, the same distance in three days, which we
were occupied four and a half in ascendijig. We
w^ere rejoiced to find our friends in perfect health.

267

and that no attempts had been made by the savages,
during our absence, to molest them. A pleasure,
scarcely less satisfactory in its nature, arose from the
termination of a part of our voyage, which had ap-
peared to us to present greater difficuUies in its ac-
complishment, and less in its character and produc-
tions to reward exploration, than any other section
of the tour; and in fact, we have neither found the
labour less, nor the reward greater, than was antici-
pated. Barren in its geological character and phys-
ical productions, the incidents of the tour have of-
fered little to compensate the want of zoological in-
terest, picturesque views, and populous Indian set-
tlements:— and a number of circumstances have
concurred to render our situation on this visit, one
of peculiar privation, fatigue, and physical suffering.
Not the least among these, have been the calls of an
unsatisfied appetite, the stings of the musquito, and
the almost incessant motion of travelling, depriving us
of due rest at night. By this vigilance, however — by
this constant hurry on vard — by dismissing the great-
est part of our baggage, and the few conveniences
we had thus far carried^—by stinting ourselves as to
provisions,and by leaving the weij/ht of the expedition
at Sandy lake, we have performed the voyage in less
than half the time it would otherwise have requir-
ed, and in less time than it has ever, as we are told
by the voyageurs, been before performed.

The state of the weaiher during our absence has
presented several striking transitions, in regard to
the distribution of heat, as well as the transparency
of the atmosphere, winds, rain, &;c. Having left my
thermometer with Mr. Doty, during the time of our
journey to the sources ot the Mississippi, he favoured

26a

me with the following observations, made at the
Company's Fort.

Meteorological Register kept at Sandy Lake.

SANDY
LAKE.

1820.

Atm. Temp.

Mean
temp.

78

WEATHER.

A.M.] P. M.

a|12| 2| 8| 9
|76|8n|79!78

July 17

Moniing rain — llvn fair.

- 18

.51|64|66|53|50

57

Fair.

- 19

46|63|70|55|

58

Nig-Ut rain — morning' cloudy — then clear.

- 20

60|8()|84|75|

74

- 21

68|86|88|85|74

80

- 22

73|88|90|77|

82

Clear — some iliunder.

- 23

70|82188|781
74|87i89|78|

79'
81

Niglit and morn, rain — afternoon thunder.

- 24

Fair. (Broke thermometer.)

|8)589|

7j\ mean daily temperature.

CHAPTER X.

FROM SAJ^BY LAKE TO THE AMERICAJK" GJRRLSOjY AT
ST, PETERK'i.

^^;«■^

LXIll. Day.— (/w/y 25th.)

X HE expedition embarked at the Fort at twelve
o'clock, in three canoes and a barge on its descent to
the falls of St. Anthony, accompanied by embassa^
dors of peace from the Chippeway tribes to the Si-
oux of St. Peter's. These occupied a separate ca-
noe. It is three miles from the Fort to the Missis-
sippi. The current of the river below the outlet of
Sandy lake, and the natural appearances, are similar
to what it exhibits for a hundred miles above. The
banks are alluvial, elevated from six to ten feet;
trees — elm, maple, pine, and birch. We descended
twenty-eight miles and encamped on a high sandy
bank on the west shore. The river has several ra-
pids in that distance, and some small islands covered
entirely with grass, and small tufts of willows, with
piles of driftwood collected at their heads. No
rock strata appear, but loose stones of granite, horn-
blende, and red ferruginous quartz, are seen in the
bed of the stream in passing over the rapids, and in
some places, along the margin of the river. Amon^

270

the forest trees, pine appears lo predominate on the
lands which lie a distance off the river, but elm is
most abundant along the shore : maple and birch
less so, and black walnut and oak sparing. The co-
lour of the water on looking into the river resembles
that of chocolate, but on dipping up a cup full, it
appears colourless and clear. The weather remain-
ed fair and pleasant during the day, but clouded up
towards evening.

LXIV. Day. — (July 26th.) — It commenced raining
during the night, and as we had neglected to have
our tents pitched, we were first awoke by the falling
rain, and during the intervals of the showers, the
musquitoes assailed us in such numbers, as to for-
bid the hope of rest. In this situation we passed
ihe remainder of the night, around our fires, en-
deavouring to divert our reflections, by the inter-
change of anecdote, and absolutely prevented from
falling asleep by the labour of brushing away the
voracious hordes of musquitoes, which unceasingly
beset us with their stings, and poured forth their hate-
ful and incessant buzzing upon our ears. It certain-
ly requires a different species of philosophy to with-
stand, undisturbed, the attacks of this ravenous in-
sect, from that which we are called upon to exer-
cise upon the sudden occurrence of any of the great
calamities and misfortunes of life. He who is af-
flicted, without complaining, by an unexpected
change of fortune, or the death of a friend, may be
thrown into a fit of restless impatience by the stings
of the musquito ; and the traveller who is prepared
to withstand the savage scalping knife, and the en-

271

fageS bear, has nothing to oppose to the attacks of
an enemy, which is too minute to be dreaded, and too
numerous to be destroyed.

We embarked a (ew moments before five o'clock
in the morning, the atmosphere being misty and
dark, and the weather cloudy, which eventuated in
rain before six o'clock. It ceased again as the sun
approached the meridian, and the weather was clear
and delightful at noon. A few minutes before eight
o'clock we passed the mouth of the River au Sole (Al-
der river) a stream of twenty yards wide entering
on the right shore. In the afternoon we passed four
streams of considerable size, entering on the left
shore, at short distances from each other — names
unknown ; and at half past seven in the evening
passed the mouth of Pine river, a stream of sixty
yards wide, flowing from the west. This river is a hun-
dred and forty miles in length, expanding in that dis-
tance into several small lakes, which communicate
with the waters of Leech lake. In ascending it the
Indians pursue the following route. It is one day's
journey into White Fish lake, which is six miles
long and two in width — then five miles to lake
Poppenosh, which is three miles long by one
in width — ^then three miles to a third lake, which
is seven miles long and two in width. From this
it is a short distance to Caspetawgan, or Tobacco-
pouch Lake, which is five miles in circumference,
and nearly circular, from which it is one day's jour-
ney into a fifth lake — thence two day's to a port-
age, which conveys you to the sixth lake, from
which there are several short portages from lake to
lake until you arrive at Leech Lake. The whole of

this distance is a succession of pine ridges and
swamps, and the Indians affirm that one half of the
land is covered with lakes. There is an island in
the mouth of Pine river, well timbered with pine^
elm, and maple, and a rapid in the Mississippi river
a short distance below, at the foot of which we en-
camped, on a high bank on the east shore, having de«
scended one hundred miles. In the course of this
day's journey, the river has presented several ra^
pids, islands, and ripples. The fall at none of the
rapids will exceed six feet in a distance of three
hundred yards. The islands are small and not well
wooded, and are encumbered with piles of drifted
trees, limbs, and leaves, which give them a novel
appearance, and at the same time serve to convey
an idea of the rise of the river, and of the force of
its current, during its semi-annual floods. Snags be-
come more frequent in this part of the channel ; and
the river in several places undermines its banks,
which are elevated from ten to twenty feet, and bear
a forest of elm, birch, pine, maple, black wal-
nut, and oak (^quercus ni^ra.) Loose stones are
found at all the rapids ; they are chiefly referable
to the different varieties of granite, hornblende, slate,
and sand stone. Ducks, the teal, and the plover,
have been observed ; — also, the bald eagle, king-
fisher, mock bird, robin, and pigeon. As night ap-
proached, we heard, for the first time in the region,
the whipporwill, which is called by the Indians
Miick-a-iviss^ being the sounds, according to their no-
tions, which it utters. Among the plants, at the
spot of our encampment, we noticed the wild rose
{rosa parvijlora) and a flower, resembling in some of
its characters the ipomaea nil, but with a short flo-

273

riferous stem, and lance-oblong leaves : peduncle
one-flowered, bell-shaped, white, downy. It appears
to have escaped the notice of Pursh, in his botanical
researches in the northwest. We also, during this
day's journey, first noticed the common red barking
squirrel, which, invited from its nest, by the beauty
of the weather during the afternoon, has been fre-
quently observed playing among the branches of the
black walnut, and other favourite trees. This
sprightly little animal is equally entitled to our ad-
miration from the beauty of its form and the agility
of its movements ; and there is no person who has
visited an American forest during the summer sea-
son, either as a sportsman or an admirer of nature,
who is not ready to acknowledge how much this
pretty and playful little quadruped contributes to en-
liven and beautify the scene. There are several
species of this animal in the forests of the Mississip-
pi, and other parts of the United States. They are
all referable to the natural genus sciurus, in the
Linnasan system, the generic characters of which are
two fore teeth in each jaw, the upper ones wedge-
shaped and cutters like those of the beaver ; the infe-
rior ones sharp-pointed, like those of the dog and wolf.
Some of the species of this genus, however, have
their fore and hind legs connected by a thin mem-
brane covered with hair by means of which they are
enabled to support themselves in the air while leap-
ing from one tree to another. Naturalists have seized
upon this character to separate the genus into two di-
visions ; distinguishing those which possess the mem-
brane petauri, or flying-squirrels, and those without
it scmri scadentes* or climbing squirrels. The speci-

35

271

fic name of the common red squirrel is sciurus vul-
garis.

LXV. Day. — (Jiili/ 27th.) — There was a heavy
fall of clew during the night, and a foggy atmosphere
at early day light, but tiie sun arose clear, and the
day continued pleasant, with the exception of the
oppressive heat at noon. We quit our encampment
at five o'clock. The pine lands which commenced
yesterday at the junction of Pine river with the Mis-
sissipi, continued to within a short distance of the
mouth of the river De Corbeau. They are
elevated from si. 'fty to a hundred feet, and lie in
ridges. The principal timber is the yellow pine. —
Mixed with the sand which is in some places naked,
and destitute of vegetation, are fragments of granite,
hornblende, quartz, jasper, and carnelian. This
strip of sandy country was denominated the Dead
Fines by Pike. At twelve o'clock we passed the
moulh of the river De Corbeau, the largest stream
which has yet entered the Mississippi, and by which
a communication is maintained with the Red river.
^t is ascended by tlie traders a hundred and eighty
miles to the mouth of the Pemmisco, or Go-by-water
river, which flows in from the north west. This is
also ascended a like distance, and a portage of two
pauses tfien made into Otter Tail Lake, which has
a navigable outlet into Red River, of which it is in-
deed, one of the principal sources. The south fork
of the De Corbeau originates near the sources of
the St. Peter's, and the Indians are in the practice oi
passing that way in canoes. The river De Corbeau
joins the Mississippi in north latitude 45° 49' 50" and is
the largest tributary which it receives above the falls

275

of St. A.nthonj, being nearly of equal magnitude. —
The lands upon its banks are rich, and covered
with a heavy growth of hard wood, chiefly elm, su-
gar tree, black walnut, and oak. At the point of
junction there is a large and well wooded island
called the Isle De Corheau, by which the river
is hid from the view until you have nearly passed
it, when by turning the eye towards the south,
you have a fine view of its broad and beautiful sur-
face, and the luxuriant foliage which overshadows
its banks. The Mississippi assumes an increased
width below, and is particularly characterized by
numerous and heavy timbered islands, all of Avhich
present immense drifts of floodwood at their heads,
and by dividing the river into a number of channels,
serve to increase its width, and the difficulties of its
navigation. Here also, the Burfalo Plains com-
mence, and continue downward, on both banks of
the river, to the falls of St. Anthony These plains
are elevated about sixty feet above the summer-level
of the water, and consist of a sandy alluvion cov-
ered wMth rank grass, and occasional clumps of the
dwarf black oak. They generally present steep,
naked, and falling-in banks towards the river, and
disclose innumerable small fragments of carnelian,
agate, and jasper, along w^ith masses of coarser
rock, such as granite, hornblende, &lc.

We descended the river a distance of miiQiy
miles, having been eleven hours in our canoes, a; id
encamped on the prairie on the left bank. Here
our Indians killed an elk and a buffalo, a number of
which were seen upon the contiguous plain. A sliurt
distance above, we passed a hunting camp of Chip-
peways, consisting of probably one hundred and

276

fifty souls. On landing, we were received with a
salute in the Indian method, and exchanged some
corn, of which they were much in need, for perami-
can, and dried buffalo beef.

LXVI. Day. (July 2 8//i.)— Embarked at half past
four. Two miles below we passed the mouth of
Elk river, entering on the right shore. This is a
stream of forty yards wide, and has a rapid near its
mouth which is visible from the Mississippi. It is,
however, ascended a great distance in canoes, and
communicates with the St. Peter's, by two short port-
ages.

The little Falls are four miles below the mouth of
Elk river, where the Mississippi forces its way
through a narrow defile of rocks which appear in
rugged masses in the bed of the stream, and attain
an elevation of from twenty to forty feet upon its
banks. Passing with great velocity over the schute
of the falls, it was difficult to ascertain the geologi-
cal character of the rock, but it appeared to be gra-
nite very much mixed and darkened with hornblen-
de. The river at this place is narrowed to half its
usual width. The descent of water may be estima-
ted at ten feet, in one hundred and fifty yards. Be-
tween Elk river and the little Falls, we pass the
Painted Rock standing upon the west bank of the
river. It consists of a mass of granite and hornblen-
de, upon which the Indians have drawn a number of
hieroglyphics, and rude designs.

Being now in the region of buffalo, we concluded
to land, in the course of the day, at some conven-
ient place for hunting them. This we were soon in-
vited to do by seeing one of those animals along tho

277

shore of the river, and on ascending the bank, we
observed, upon a boundless prairie, two droves ot"
them, feeding upon the grass. All who had guns
adapted for the purpose, sallied forth in separate
parties upon the prairie, while those who felt less
ambition to signalize themselves upon the occasion,
or were more illy accoutred for the activities of the
chase, remained upon an eminence which overlook-
ed the plain, to observe the movements of this an-
imal while under an attack of musketry, and to en-
joy the novel spectacle of a buffalo-hunt. The grass
was so tall as to allow an unobserved approach to-
wards the spot where they remained feeding, but
the first fire proved unsuccessful, at the same time
that it scattered the herd, which were now seen run-
ning in all directions across the prairie, and an in-
cessant fire of random shots was kept up for about
two hours ; during which three buffaloes were killed,
and a great number w^ounded, which made their es-
cape. While thus harassed, they often passed with-
in a few yards of us, and we enjoyed a fine oppor-
tunity of witnessing their form, size, colour, and
epeed. The buffalo has a clumsy gait, like the do-
mestic ox, which it also resembles in size and gene-
ral appearance. Unlike the ox, however, this animal
exhibits no diversity of colour, being a uniform dark
brown inclining to dun. It is never spotted, with
black, red, or white. It has short black horns growing
nearly straight from the head, and set at a considera-
ble distance apart. The male has a hunch upon its
shoulders, covered with long flocks of shaggy hair,
extending to the top of the head from which it falls
over the eyes and horns, giving the animal a very
formidable appearance. The hoofs are cloven

278

like those of the cow, but the legs are much stouter,
and altogether, it is more clumsy and ill-proportion-
ed. The tail is naked till towards the end, where
it is tufted, in the manner of the lion. The general
weight of this animal is from eight hundred to a
thousand pounds; but they sometimes attain an
enormous size, and have been killed upon the Mis-
sissippi prairies weighing two thousand pounds. —
The skin of a buffalo-bull when first taken off, is
three fourths of an inch in thickness, and cannot be
lifted by the strongest man. A hundred and fifty
pounds of tallow have been taken from one animal,
and it is highly esteemed by the lndiai]s in preparing
their hommony. Instances of excessive fatness arc,
however, rare, and such over-fed animals become so
unweildy that they often fall a prry to wolves; par-
ticularly if they happen to stray a distance from the
herd. The buffalo is a timid animal, and flies at
the approach of man. It is however asserted by the
hunters, that when painfully wounded, it becomes
furious, and will turn upon its pursuers. There is a
particular art in killing the buffalo with a rifle, on-
ly known to experienced hunters, and when tiiey do
not drop down, wliich is often the case, it requires a
person intimately acquainted with their habits, to
pursue them with success. This has been fully
instanced in the futile exertions of our party,
upon the present occasion, for out of a great
number of shots few have reached the ob-
ject, and very few proved effectual, and the little
success we met with is chiefly attributable to the
superior skill of the Indians who accompanied us — -
Unless a vital part is touched, the shot proves use-
less. It also requires a larger ball than the deer and
elk. Lieutenant Pike thinks that in the open prai-

279

ries, the bow and arrow could be used to better ad-
vantage than the gun, particularly on horseback, for
you might ride immediately along side the animal
and strike it where you pleased.* The Indians em-
ploy both the rille, and arrow, and in the prairies of
Missouri and Arkansas, pursue the herds on horse-
back; but on the upper Mississippi, where they are
destitute of horses, they make amends for this defi-
ciency by several ingenious stratagems. One of the
most common of these is the method of hunting with
fire. For this purpose a great number of hunters
disperse themselves around a large prairie where
herds of bulfalo happen to be fe< ding, and setting fire
to the grass encompass them on all sides. The buffa-
lo, having a great dread of fire, retire towards the
centre of the prairie as they see it approach, and here
being pressed together in great numbers, many are
trampled under foot, and the Indians rushing in with
their arrows and musketry, slaughter immense num-
bers in a short period. It is asserted that a thou-
sand animals have been killed by this stratagem in
one day. They have another method of hunting by
driving them over precipices, which is chiefly prac-
tised by the bands inhabiting the Missouri. To de-
coy the herds, several Indians disguise themselves in
the skins of the buffalo, taken off entire, and by coun-
terfeiting the lowing of this animal in distress,
they attract the herds in a certain direction,
and when they are at full speed, suddenly disappear
behind a cleft in the top of a precipice when those
animals which are in front on reaching the brink, are
pushed over by those pressing behind, and in this

* Pike's Expeditions, page 4§.

280

manner great numbers are crushed to death. These
practices are less common now than formerly, the
introduction of fire arms among most of the tribes,
putting it into the power of almost every individual
to kill sufficient for the support of his family. By a
very bad policy, however, they prefer the flesh of
the cows, which will in time destroy the species. —
Few of the native animals of the American forest
contribute more to the comforts of savage socie-
ty than the buffalo. Its skin when dressed, by a
process peculiar to them, forms one of the princi-
pal articles of clothing. The Sioux tribes particu-
larly excel in the method of dressing it, and are
very much in the habit of ornamenting their dresses
with porcupine quills, and paints. The skin dress-
ed with the hair on, supplies them with blankets,
and constitutes those durable and often beautiful
sleiffh-robes which are now in such universal use
in the United States and the Canadas. The tal-
low of this animal, as well as the beef, has also
become an article of commerce, particularly in the
south western states and territories, and its horns
are exported for the manufacture of powder-flasks.
The tongue is considered superior in flavour to that
of the domestic cow, and the animal is often hunt-
ed for no other purpose. I have seen stockings and
hats manufactured from its wool with a little addi-
tion of common wool, or of cotton. This practice
is very common among the white hunters of Mis-
souri and Arkansas. The flesh of the buflalo is
not equal, in its fresh state, to that of the cow or
ox, but is superior when dried,, which is the Indian
tnode of preserving it.

281

The attempts which have been made to domesti"
cate this animal, have not been attended with sujc-
cess. Cahes which have been taken in the woods
and brought up with the tame breed, have afterwards
discovered a wild and ungovernable temper, and
manifested their savage nature by breaking down the
strongest enclosures, and enticing the tame cattle
into the woods. The mixed breed is said to be bar-
ren, like the mule. The period of gesticulation is
ascertained to be twelve months, whereas that of the
cow is nine. A remarkable proof of the little affin-
ity existing between it, and the domestic breed of
cattle, was exhibited a few years ago in Canada,
where the connexion resulted in the death of the
cows submitted to the experiment.

Naturalists have generally considered the Ameri-
can buffalo {Bos Bubalus) of the same species with
the Bison and Aurochs of Europe and Asia, the dif-
ference consisting in the former being less shaggy,
the hair partaking less of the character of wool,
and the conformation of the hind parts of the animal
being stouter and more like that of the common ox.
Several varieties of this species are found ; as the
anoa, seminudus, bos cafer, wild grunting ox, guave-
ra, musk buffalo, urus, and zebu, or Barbary cow.

The bison is at present found throughout the south-
ern parts of Asia and Africa, and is said to attain its
greatest size at Malabar, Abyssinia and Madagas-
car, where the extensive savannahs are clothed
with the most luxuriant herbage. The only parts of
Europe where this animal is now found, are the pro-
vince of Lithuania, the Carpathian mountains, and
the great Hercynian forest.

In America the buffalo is confined to the regions
36

situated between the 3 1st and 4l)tli degrees of nortU
latitude, and west of the {Mississippi river. The
only part of the country east of this river, where
the buffalo now remains, is that included between
the falls of St. Anthony and Sandy Lake, a range
of about six hundred miles. South of the 31st de-
gree of north latitude the buffalo isnot found, but its
place is supplied in Mexico by the wild ox, without
a hunch, which is considered of European origin.

Having spent several hours in the chase of this
animal, and driven the herds off to a great distance,
we embarked, and proceeded down the river until
three o'clock, when we again landed on a high
prairie bank on the west shore, at the site of an old
Indian encampment of sixteen lodges. Here we
spent the remainder of the afternoon in hunting bnf-
falo, many of which were seen on the contiguous
plain, and encamped at night, having descended the
river fifty -^four miles. The first object which attract-
ed our attention on landing was an Indian sign, or
letter of birch bark, affixed to a long pole in the
centre of the deserted ervcampment. This had been
left for the information of the Chippeways by a large
party of Sioux, on the termination of an excursion
up the river, for the purpose of meeting with the
former. As we carried embassadors of peace from
the Chippeway nation, they approached the hiero-
glyphical sign with great eagerness, and learned its
import with equal satisfaction. By it, they were in-
formed, that at the solicitation of the commandant of
the American garrison at St. Peter's, a large party of
the Sioux had proceeded thus far up the river on a
mission of peace, but not meeting with any of the
Chippeways, had returned ; and that they were equal-

233

ly disposed for peace or war. The number of the
part}',— ^the chiefs who headed them,— their route, —
the situation of their villages on the St. Peter's, — the
American garrison, and other particulars were accu-
rately delineated, or represented hy symbols and
characters in common use, so that they experienced
no difficulty in the perusal, and explained to us with
great facility the import of the message. I have al-
ready adverted to this method of communication be-
tween the Indian tribes of the north, and can now
add, that the information given in this instance, was
strictly corroborated on our arrival at St. Peter's.

The Mississippi below the junction of the river
De Corbeau, pursues a more direct course towards
the southwest. This has been particularly observa-
ble to-day. The current continues strong, and pre-
sents a great many islands and rapids. Piles of drift-
wood appear upon the heads of islands, and loose
granitic stones at the rapids. Snags become more
frequent. Several rivers and creeks join the river
on either shore, but none of any considerable mag-
nitude. The soil continues alluvial on both banks— =
Ducks, geese, pelican, swan, and snipe, have been
frequently seen; — also, the eagle, hawk, buzzard,
heron, pigeon, and red squirrel. We passed Pike's
Block House about ten o'clock in the morning. Op-
posite our present encampment, on the east side of
the river, there is a bed of granite, two hundred and
fifty feet in height. It is considerably mixed with
hornblende. On ascending it I found the most
charming prospects in every direction. It commands
a view of the prairies on both banks of the Missis*
sippi, with the windings of the stream, and its isl-
ands and rapids for many miles above and belowj

284

and the interest of the scene was greatly enhanced
at the moment, by the herds of buffalo and deer
"which were seen in various groupes upon the prai-
ries, and the delightful influence of a mild and
transparent summer atmosphere.

The Indians of this region subsist wholly without
the use of salt with their provisions.

LXVII. Day.— (^w/y 29th.)— There is a heavy fall of
dew upon the banks of the Mississippi during the sum-
mer nights which is in some measure proportioned
to the heat of the preceding day; and increases in a
direct ratio from its sources to its mouth. An expo-
sure to this is considered particularly injurious to
health, and is thought to be among the predisposing
causes of malignant fevers. Any article capable of
imbibing moisture, which is left out of the tent
during the night, becomes as completely saturated
with water, as if it had been exposed to a shower
of rain.

In the course of the night a pack of wolves were
heard on the opposite side of the river. There is
something doleful as well as terrific in the howling of
this animal, particularly when we start from a sound
sleep during the stillness of night. It is, howe-
ver, little to be dreaded, and I have never heard of
an instance of its making an attack upon man, in
the wilderness, although such instances have fre-
quently occurred on the frontiers of our settlements.
The cause of this apparently reversed order of na-
ture is obvious. In the wilderness the wolf finds no
difficulty in preying upon deer, buffalo, and elk, and
is thus supplied with food; but such animals as
linger upon the borders of society, where the

285

deer has long been driven off, are compelled to re-
sort to sheep and young cattle, and in cases of ex-
treme hunger, are excited to acts of the most daring
ferocity, and will attack men and horses, and what-
ever happens to fall in their way. There are two
species of the wolf upon the banks of the Mississip-
pi,— the common grey wo\i (Cams Lupus) and ae
prairie wolf, which is unknown in Europe. The
latter consists of two varieties, the yellow and black
wolf Both are much smaller than the canis lupus,
and hunt together in larger packs. They possess in
a superior degree the cunning, ferocity, and activity
of the species, and are characterized by a fierce,
sparkling yellow eye, and very sharp pointed ears.
The yellow kind exceeds the terrier dog in size,
which it also very much resembles in the shape of
its head, and the general conformation of its body.
The black wolf is larger, and I have seen an animal
of this kind killed on the Missouri prairies, measuring
three feet nine inches, from the tip of the nose to
the insertion of the tail, being covered in every part
with long black hair, but so coarse and bristly that
no value is set upon it by the traders. The sagaci-
ty of the black and yellow prairie wolf, is such that
when in a gang in the pursuit of deer, or buffalo,
they will divide themselves into separate parties,
and surrounding their prey, in a valley or open prai-
rie, seldom fail to take a number, particularly such
as are disabled by hunters, accidents, or age, or be-
come unwieldly from over-feeding.

There is another sound whieh will frequently dis-
turb the nightly rest of the traveller in the region of
the Mississippi. It is the half-human cry of the
Strix Nyctea, or great white owl, which inhabits the

286

coldest regions of our continent, and is seldoiu
found south of the falls of St. Anthony. This ani-
mal utters its most hideous cry, a few moments
before the first glimpse of day light, and is
thus the unerring herald of day. At this time
it betakes itself to those recesses where it spends
thepdayin seclusion. With this warning cry we
were called to embark, and quit our encampment
at half past four, the Aveather fair, and the ther-
mometer standing at 50°. On descending six miles,
we passed the mouth of Sac river, a stream of a
hundred yards in width, entering on the west shore.
This is one of the principal hunting grounds of the
iMinow Kantong band of Sioux. It is represented
as a aentle river, and bordered in its whole course
with the most luxuriant prairies, interspersed with
copses of woods, the favorite resort of buffalo, elk,
and deer.

j\t ten o'clock we encountered a formidable ra-
pid, called the Big Falls, which consists of a series
of breaks and schutes extending about eight hun-
dred yards, in which distance the river may be esti-
mated to have an aggregate fall of sixteen feet. Thp
bed of the river at this fall is beset with sharp frag-
ments of granitic and hornblende rock, which also
appear in rolled masses upon the shores. The next
remarkable trait in the river is Prairie rapids, which
are six in number, and have a mean descent of about
twenty feet in five miles.

At half past four in the afternoon, we passed the
mouth of the river St. Francis, a large stream faUing
in on the east shore. For a great distance above
its mouth it runs parallel with the Mississippi, which
ig the cause that so few tributaries enter the latter

287

Qr\ the east shore after passhig the mouth of the riv-
er De Corbeau. Its principal fork is Muddy river. —
Here Carver terminated his travels up the Missis-
sippi in the year 1765 ; and Father Hennepin in
1681. An island in the river opposite its mouth
hides the view of it from those who descend by the
west channel.

At six o'clock we passed Crow river, which is
tributary on the western bank. It is a long stream
and has a width of forty yards at its mouth, which
it preserves a great distance up. It is ascended in
canoes to within a few miles of its source, which is
six days journey west of the Mississippi. Its prin-
cipal fork is Tawtonga or Buffalo creek, which ori-
ginates in Dog lake, in the centre of a boundless
prairie. This is one of the best hunting grounds of
the Sioux.

We encamped five miles below Crow river on the
east bank of the Mississippi, having been thirteen
hours in our canoes, and descended ninety miles.
The current of the river this day has been unusually
strong, with many rapids and ripples. — Very few
snags have been observed. — A great many islands
were passed in the afternoon, and some small sand
bars, being the first noticed. — Prairies continue on
both banks, with occasional clumps of trees, and
forests of two or three miles in extent. The growth
of wood upon the islands is elm, black and white
walnut, maple, oak, and ash : — upon the prairies,
dwarf black oak. Along the banks of the river, peb-
bles of quartz, granite, hornblende, carnelian, and
agate are seen. In one instance, 1 picked up a fine
specimen of agatized wood, such as is common up-
on the lower Mississippi, and along the shores of the

288

Missouri. The colour of the water continues a light
chocolate brown in the stream, but appears clear in
small quantities. Pebblesat the bottom of the river
can be plainly discerned through it at four or five
feet depth. The quality of the soil of the prairies
improves as we descend, and during the last twenty
miles may be considered of the richest kind. The
prairies are in fact covered with a stratum of the most
recently deposited, black, marly alluvion, which
appears to be composed, in a great degree, of vege-
table mould. It is entirely destitute of those round-
ed pebbles and stones which generally characterize
upland soils, although bottomed upon a stratum of
alluvion in which they are abundantly disseminated.
The whole, apparently, rests immediately upon gra-
nitic and hornblende rock, which occasionally rises
through it, in rugged peaks, and beds.

LXVfll. Day.— {July Wth.)—\{ was five o'clock in
the morning when we left our encampment. On de-
scending six miles we reached the mouth of the
Mississawgaigon or Rum river, a large and long
stream coming in upon the east bank. It originates in
Spirit Lake, which is ten days journey north of its
mouth. This lake is twelve miles long and four in
width, of an irregular shape and beautitied with se-
veral islands. It is only two days journey south-
west of Sandy Lake. Its waters are very transpa-
rent, and afford a variety of fish, and the Indians
say that its shores are strewed with an infinite varie-
ty of clear and shining stones, some of which are
as large as a man's fist. These, from their descrip-
tions, are presumed to be carnelians, agates, chalce-
donies, and other silicious gems, which are known

N

289

tD be the product of the contiguous regions. Spir-
it Lake has t\vt) inlets, one of which called Akeek
Seeba, originates a few miles west of the banks of
St. Lotris river near the Grand Rapids ; the other
is ascended in canoes within a day's walk of Lower
Red Cedar Lake.

The falls of St. Anthony are fourteen miles be-
low the confluence of the Mississawgaeigon. We
reached the upper end of the portage at half past
eight in the morning, and while the voyageurs were
busied in the transportation of our baggage, hastened
to take a view of this celebrated cataract. The
river has a perpendicular pitch of forty feet, with a
formidable rapid above and below. An island at
the brink of the falls, divides the current into two
sheets, the largest of which passes on the west of
the island. The rapid below the schute is filled
with large fragments of rock, in the interstices of
which some alluvial soil has accumulated, which
nourishes a stinted growth of cedars. This rapid
extends half a mile, in which distance the river may
be estimated to have a descent offifteen feet. The
rapid preceding the falls, has a descent of about
ten feet in the distance of three hundred yards,
where the river runs with a swift but unruffled cur-
rent over a smooth stratum of rock a little inclined
towards the brink. The entire fall therefore in a
little less than three fourths of a mile, is sixty-five
feet. The rock is a white sand stone overlayed by
secondary lime stone. This formation is first seen
half a mile above the falls, where it breaks out abr
ruptly on the banks of the river. The perspective
view (Plate VII.) is taken from a point about two
hundred yards below the schute of the falls on the

37

^90

cast shore, and a short distance west of the portage
path. The scene presents nothing of that majesty
and awe which is experienced in the gulf helow
the cataract of Niagara. We do not hear that
deep and appalhng tone in the roar of water, nor
do we feel that tremulous motion of tire rocks under
our feet, which impresses the visitor at Niagara with
an idea of grealness, that its magnificent outline of
rock and water, would not, independently, create.
The falls of St. Anthony, however, present attrac.
tions of a different nature, and have a simplicity of
character which is very pleasing. We see nothing
in the view which may not be considered either rude
or picturesque, and perhaps th^re are few scenes in
the natural topography of our country, where these
features are blended with more harmony and effect.
It is in fact the precise point of transition, where
the beautiful prairies of the upper Mississippi, are
merged in the rugged lime stone bluffs which skirt
the banks of the river from that point downward. — -
^Tith this change of geological character, we per-
ceive a corresponding one, in the vegetable produc-
tions, and the eye embraces at one view, the copse&
of oak upon the prairies, and the cedars and pines
which characterize the calcareous bluffs. Nothing
can exceed the beauty of the prairies which skirt
both banks of the river above the falls. They donot^
^*^' however, consist of an unbroken plain, but are di-

versified with gentle ascents and small ravines co-
vered with the most luxuriant growth of grass and
heath-flowers, interspersed with groves of oak»
which throw an air of the most picturesque beauty
over the scene. .

291

It is probable, too, that during the high floods of
!:he Mississippi in the spring and fall, this cataract
attains a character of sublimity, from the increased
volume and tumult of the water, and the inundation
of the accumulated debris, which presents, at this
season, so rugged an aspect. It is said, also, that this
accession of water produces a cloud of spray which
must take away a certain nakedness in the appear-
ance of the falls, that will strike every visitor who
has previously enjoyed the sight of the Niagara.

The European name of these falls is due to fa-
ther Lewis Hennepin, a French missionary of the
order of Recollects, who first visited them in 1 680.
The Indian name in the Narcotah, or Sioux language,
is Oivah-JUenah, or the falling water.

At the east side of the river, close under the
sheet of the principal column of water, the Indians
procure a kind of clay of a brownish red colour
with which they paint their canoes and baskets. It
appears to be an aluminous substance very much
mixed with iron pyrites in a state of decomposition,
and penetrated with vegetable juices. It is found
in a crevice about ten feet below the water, and
they pretend that it is renewed when taken away.

The length of the portage around the falls, as
measured by Lieutenant Pike in 1805, is two hun-
dred and sixty poles, but in high water is somewhat
less. The width of the river on the brink of the
fall is stated at two hundred and twenty-seven yards,
but narrows to two hundred and nine yards a short
distance below, where the river is compressed be-
tween opposing ledges of rock.

We completed the portage of our canoes and bag-
gage at half past one, and descending the river nine

292

miles, reached the American garrison at St. Peters
at three, and were received with a national salute. — ^
The spot which it is proposed to fortify is a high bluff
at the junction of the river St. Peter's with the Mis-
sissippi— a spot which commands the navigation of
both rivers, and appears capable of being rendered
impregnable with little expense. It is in fact the
same point of land which first suggested to Lieuten-
ant Pike the idea of its being an eligible situation
for a fort, and led to its subsequent purchase from the
Sioux Indians. This purchase was effected at a
treaty* held by Lieut. Pike in September, 1 805, by
which they cede to the United States the district of
country from the junction of the St. Peter's with
the Mississippi, to the falls of St. Anthony inclusive,
and extending nine miles on each side of the river.
The consideration for this grant was two thousand

* The following is the Treaty alluded to :

At a conference held between the United States of America
and the Sioux nation of Indians : lieutenant Z. M. Pike, of the
army of the United States, and the chiefs and the warriors of
said tribe, have agreed to the following articles, which, when
ratified and approved of by the proper authority, shall be binding
on both parties.

Art, 1. That the Sioux nation grant unto the United States,
for the purpose of establishment of military posts, nine miles square
at the mouth of the St. Croix,* also from below the confluence of
the Mississippi and St. Peter's up the Mississippi to include the
falls of St. Anthony, extending nine miles on each side of the
river, that the Sioux nation grants to the United Stales the full
sovereignty and power over said district for ever.

Art. 2. That, in consideration of the above grants, the United
Slates shall pay (filled up by the senate with 2000 dollars.^

Art. 3. The United States promise, on their part, to permit

• My demand was one leagiie below : their reply was " from below."—'
I imagine (without iniquity) they may be made to agree^

293

dollars. It could hardly have been anticipated at
that time, when there were probably not more than
a hundred American families in the extensive re-
gion now composing the states of Indiana, Illinois,
and Missouri, that in the short space of thirteen
years the progress of our settlements would have
demanded the occupancy of a post in so remote a
section of the union. Yet it was loudly called for
even within that time, as a protection to the defence-
less settlers on our northwestern and southwestern
frontiers — and as a check to the undue influence
which the British traders have too long exercised
over the Indian tribes inhabiting the territories of
the United States. Yielding to this expression of
the public voice, the government determined to es-
tablish a garrison at St. Peter's. The force desig-
nated to accomplish this object consisted of three
hundred men of the sixth regiment of infantry un-
der the orders of ColoLcl Leavenworth, who had
distinguished himself as commandant of the ninth

the Sioux to pass and repass, hunt, or make other use of the said
districts as they have formerly done without any other exception
than those specified in article first.

In testimony whereof we, the undersigned, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, at the mouth
of the river St. Peter's, on the 23d day of
September, 1805.

Z. M. Pike, 1st lieut. (L. S.)

and agent at the above conference,
his
Le Petit Corbeau, >^ (L. S.)
mark
his
Way Ago Enagee, X (L. S.)
mark.

294

and twenty-second regiments in the battle of Chip-
peway.* They left Detroit in the spring of 18 J 9,
and proceeding by the way of Green Bay and the
Fox and Ousconsing rivers entered the Mississippi
at Prairie du Chien, where they left a detachment to
erect a garrison, and proceeding up the river reach-
ed the mouth of the St. Peter's in season to com-
plete their cantonements before the commencement
of winter. They first located themselves on the
rich bottomlands which extend along the south bank
of the St. Peter's, but not finding it a healthy situa-
tion, removed in the spring of 1820, to an eminence
on the west bank of the Mississippi, a mile distant
from the old cantonement — a situation which is
extremely pleasant and salubrious, and where they
will remain until the permanent works are comple-
ted upon the bluff at the junction of the two rivers.
Since their arrival, the garrison have cleared and
put under cultivation about ninety acres of the
choicest bottom and prairie lands, which is chiefly
planted with Indian corn and potatoes ; besides a
large hospital- — a Tegmental, and several company,
and private gardens, which supply vegetables in great
abundance tor all the men. Here we were first pre-
sented with green corn, pease, beans, cucumbers,
beets, radishes, lettuce, &c. The first green pease
were eaten here on the 15th of June, and the first
green corn on the 20th of July. Much of the corn
is already too hard to be boiled for the table, and
some ears can be selected which are ripe enough
for seed corn. We found the wheat entirely ripe,
and melons nearly so. These are the best com-
mentaries that can be offered upon the soil and cli-

* See Fay's Battles, page 215.

205

inate. To ascertain, however, that the former is of
the richest quahty, a cursory examination is only
required. It presents all the peculiar appearances
which characterize the fertile alluvions of the valley
of the Ohio. In favour of the climate all the offi-
cers of the garrison speak in terms of the highest
admiration. The atmosphere is represented as
beautifully serene and transparent during the sum-
mer season, and free from that humidity which pro-
duces haziness and opacity; and although the metC"
orological registers* of the garrison indicate a high
atmospheric temperature, it is observed that the
fervour of the heat is greatly mitigated by the al-
most continual currents of the air, which prevent
the weather from becoming sultry or oppressive. It
is probable, however, that this effect is in some
measure owing to the eligible situation of the garri-
son, at an elevation of about one hundred and fifty
feet above the Mississippi river. The latitude of
St. Peter's is45°.—.—.

LXIX. Day.— (/w/^ 31 5^)— The river St. Peter's
flows through the centre of the Sioux territories,

* It is rendered the duty of the Post-Surgeons at the frontier
garrisons to keep a meteorological register of the weather, and to
transmit abstracts of it, periodically, to the War Department. —
With a view of comparing the results with my own observations,
and of drawing some general conclusions, with regard to the cli-
mate of St. Peter's, I called on Doctor P 11 ©f the garrison and

requested permission to copy his register, but regret that he did
not think proper to assent without an injunction that it should not
be made public. Is there any thing in the state of the weather at
St. Peter's, of so much imffortance to the government, as to re-
quire secrecy ? I am satisfied that gentlemen of the medical pro-
fession in the United States do not often subject themselves to the
imputation of narrow-mindedness or illiberality.

296

and is both the largest ?»nd the least known, of all
the tributaries of the upper Mississippi. It has ne-
ver been explored except bj voyageurs and traders^
whose whole attention has been directed to the col-
lection of peltries from the aborigines, and remains
to this moment, undescribed in American geography.
All, however, who have been questioned on the
subject, both Indians and traders, agree in saying,
that it is a long stream, made up of a great many
tributaries, and flowing in its whole extent through
a country of the most luxuriant fertility and delight-
ful appearance. Carver ascended it two hundred
miles, and found it to preserve in that distance, a
uniform width of about one hundred yards, with a
great depth of water, and represents its southern
fork as originating very near the banks of the Mis-
souri, and its northern, in a district of highlands
called the Shining Mountains. " These mountains'*
he observes, " take their name from an infinite num-
ber of crystal stones of an amazing size, with which
they are covered ; and which when the sun shines
full upon them, sparkle so as to be seen at a very
great distance." After the most diligent enquiry,
1 have not been able to procure any information con-
cerning these mountains, or their crystalHne pro-
ductions. To the first tributary of the St. Peter's on
the northern bank, falling in forty miles above its
mouth, Carver gave his own name, which I have
adopted upon the chart of our track. The other
tributary most known is the Terre Bleu, or Blue-"
earth river, which flows in from the south, a hun-
dred miles west of the Mississippi, by a mouth of
fifty yards in width. It is chiefly noted for the blue
clay which the Indians procure upon its banks, and

297

which is much employed in painting their faces and
other parts of their bodies. The locality of this
substance, as communicated by the Indians to Go-
vernor Cass, is the declivity of a hill one hundred
and twenty feet in height, in the rear of the village
of Sissitongs, one mile above its confluence with the
St. Peter's. It is found at the foot of a sand stone
bluff, between two strata of the rock, in a vein about
fifteen inches in thickness. They have dug under it, so
far as a man can go leaving out his legs. The vein
does not extend far up and down the river. It is eleva-
ted about twenty feet above the level of the waters
of the river, during the highest floods. Three miles
helow this, on the St. Peter's, there is a vein of
green clay, of similar size, and situated between
layers of the same kind of rock. About half way
up a perpendicular bluff of rock, (they say) there is
a break or platform, fifty feet broad, with a spring
running over it. The clay is found where this spring
issues from the rock, and is abundant. I procured
specimens of both these varieties of clay. They
appear to present alumine in combination with sub-
stances with which it has not heretofore been observ-
ed. They are considerably mixed with sand, and dry
in the air without a disposition to crack in the man-
ner of common clays. This is probably owing to
the admixture of sand, which by rendering the mass
porous in a higher degree, allows it to part with its
moisture with greater rapidity. The two varieties
only differ in the intensity of colour, one beino- a
light green, the other partaking somewhat of blue.
The colouring matter appears to be carbonat of cop-
per. These clays possess all the plasticity of comr

38

'2dii

inon clajs when first taken up, and acquire a con-
siderable degree of liardness, on drying. The St.
Peter's also, afibrds a red paint, which is very much
employed by the Sioux. This is procured at a spot
called the Big Stone, at the extreme head of the
river. A large spring rises from a level dry plain^
and a few feet beyond it, this paint is found. They
take it up with the point of a knife. The stratum isf
about eight inches thick, but just below the surface
is mixed with common earth. It is perfectly dry,
and void of all adhesive properties. The opening
where the paint is procured, is about ten feet in di-
ameter. It has long been resorted to, and they pre-
tend that the quantity is annually renewed. The
spring is fifteen or twenty feet in diameter, the wa-
ter good, and rises in great abundance. The same
substance is found at a tew other places on an ad-
joining prairie. This red paint, proves to be the
native red oxide of iron, in one of its most pure and
beautiful forms. By sifting it, and grinding the
powder in oil, it w^ould prove a valuable and dura-
ble pigment, and its preparation may hereafter be-
come an object in the commerce of the region.

Tlsere is also found upon some parts of this river
a white clay, which has been thought proper for the
manufacture of fine porcelain, but it appears to be
entirely different from the Petuntz of the Chinese^
or the porcelain earth of Limoges, or Monckton. —
The latter proceed from the decomposition oi
graphic granite which is mostly composed of feld-
spar, and occur in dry, white, friable masses, without
any of that pasticity which distinguishes the classes
of common clays. But the white clay of St. Peter's,
is very adhesive, and resembles the colourless clays

299

of the Rhine, which are employed in the lining of fur-
naces where an intense deoree of heat is required,
and in the fabrication of chemical, and other cruci-
bles. The specimens which I procured, are veined a
Jittle with red. It may prove valuable in the mani-
pulations of the glass-maker.

This river has long been noted as the locality of
that beautiful red stone of which the Indians manu-
facture the bowls of their pipes, but after all that
has been said on the subject, by Carver,Breckenridge9
and others, it does not appear that it is found upon
the immediate banks of this stream. The quarry
is situated in the prairie country intermediate be-
tween the St. Peter's and the Sioux river of the
Missouri. It is said that the stratum does not ex-
ceed a foot in thickness, and that it is found two or
three feet below the soil. The Indians go once a
year to procure their supplies, and as it has been re-
sorted to for a very long period, the excavations are
said to be extensive, and if the accounts are to be
relied on, cover an area of fifty acres. This stone
is a red steatite, intermediate in its qualities, between
the common soap-stone and serpentine. It yields
very readily to the knife when first taken from the
quarry, and as it has no grit, may be sawed without
injury to a common hand saw, but it acquires a de-
gree of hardness by long exposure to the air. It will
not take a polish by the processes pursued in our
marble-yards, as I have ascertained by submitting a
piece of the stone to the experiment, but the Indian
pipes assume a glossy appearance after long use. —
A considerable degree of skill is manifested by the
Indians in cutting their pipes, and the form and di-
mensions are regulated by a scrupulous regard to

300

fashion. The bowls are invariably an inverted cone
with a massy projection from the small end for re-
ceiving the stem, as represented by figure 4th in
plate 2d. This part of the pipe is generally orna-
mented with carved work, and surmounted with a
kind of comb. The stem consists of wood, and is
usually from three to four feet in length by two or
three inches in breadth and shaved down thin, so as
to resemble a spatula. This stem is highly orna-
mented with porcupine quills, of various colours,
neatly braided in bands and checquer-work with the
exception of a small part on each end, which is left
to be painted over with green or blue clay. (See
{ig. 8. plate II.) Pipe stems of this kind are appro-
priated to the chiefs, and are carefully laid aside for
high days of ceremony and feasting, and are pre-
sented to the agents of government, as tokens of
their sincerity, at all public conferences. There is
another kind of stem which is peculiar to the com-
mon warriors or soldiers, and consists of a perfora-
ted rod profusely ornamented with stained horse
hair, eagle's quills, and the beautiful green feathers
taken from the head and neck of the wild duck.—
(See fig. 9. plate H )

"A little way," says Carver, "from the mouth of
the St. Peters, on the north side of it, stands a hill
one part of which, that towards the Mississippi, is
composed entirely of white stone, of the same soft
nature as that 1 have before described, for such
indeed is all the stone of this country : but what ap-
pears remarkable is, that the colour of it is as white
as the driven snow. The outward part of it is crum-
bled by the weather into heaps of sand, of which a
beautiful composition might be made ; or, I am of opin'

301

ion, that when properly treated, the stone itself would
grow harder by time, and have a very noble effect
in architecture." The rock here alluded to, is a
white sand stone, which is first seen on descending
the river, at the falls of St. Anthony, and forms the
imposing bluff's on each side of the river from that
point to the vicinity of the village of La Petit Cor-
beau, a distance of thirty-five miles. It is overlayed
by a stratum of secondary lime stone, containing pe-
trified concholites, and attaining, altogether, an el-
evation of about two hundred feet above the river.
On the top of this bluff', at a spot directly opposit<^
the site of the proposed fortification at St. Peter's^
a singular formation of native copper has recently
been discovered. It consists of small pieces of this
metal, from half an ounce to a pound in weight, scat-
tered over a natural hillock of small water-worn peb-
bles, or river-gravel. This is covered by a deposit
of ash-like earth of a foot in thickness and tapering
away very gradually towards the edge of the hillock.
Then succeeds a deposit of six feet in thickness, of
common alluvial soil, in which large fragments of
lime stone, quartz, and hornblende, are plentifully
imbedded, and lastly, a stratum of rich black allu-
vion without any imbedded substances, and appa-
rently composed, in a great measure, of decayed
leaves and other vegetable matter. This is eighteen
inches in depth, and forms the surface of the coun-
try which is a kind of open highland prairie, covered
with grass, and scattering oaks. Being told of this
discovery by some of the officers of the garrison, by
whom it was first noticed in quarrying stone for
chimnies, I visited the spot, and made a minute ex-
amination of appearances, and in the course of a?

30a

short time found a number of specimens of the cop-
per at the spot indicated. They were all enveloped
with a green oxide.

The river St. Peter's enters the Mississippi behind
a large island which is probably three miles in cir-
cumference, and is covered with the most luxuriant
growth of sugar maple, elm, ash, oak, and walnut. —
At the point of embouchure it is one hundred and
fifty yards in width, with a depth of ten or fiftecR
feet. Its waters are transparent, and present a light
blue tint on looking upon the stream. Hence the
Indian name of Wate-paw-mene-Sauta, or Clear- wa-
ter-river. Among the forest trees upon its banks we
noticed the box-elder (acer negundo) or ash-leaved
maple. The inner bark of this tree, boiled down
with the common nettle into a strong decoction, is
said to be used by the Indians as a remedy for lues
venerea, and to be a sovereign cure for that disor-
der.

There is a mineral spring, in a deep ravine, a
mile northwest of the new cantonement. It depo-
sits a yellow earthy substance in great abundance
upon the stones and sticks of wood over which it
passes. The water appears to be impregnated with
iron and sulphur. Another similar but less copious
spring is found on the banks of the Mississippi very
near the cantonement. It is not, however, so highly
charged with chalybeate properties.

Among the luxuriant herbage which character-
izes the prairies of St. Peter's, is found a species of
aromatic grass, upon which a high value is set by
the aborigines. It throws off the most fragrant odour,
and retains its sweetness, in a considerable degree, in
the dried state. It is cut in a particular stage of its

303

gfowth in the month of June, when it throws off its
aroma most profusely, and continues to be gathered
until it has run into seed, and is too dry to be plait-
ed. The Indian women braid it up in a very inge-
nious manner and lay it aside in their cabins, as a
kind of nostrum, and 1 have once seen it in the form
of a wreath braided with certain leaves and flowers,
decorating the temples of a warrior who had just
returned in triumph from battle. Whether this
grass is the same with the heracleum panaces of
Kamschatka, and of which the inhabitants distil an
intoxicating liquor, similar in some respects to bran-
dy, 1 am unable to determine. It appears proba-
ble it may possess some properties in common with
the holcus fragrans of Pursh.

Sir Francis Drake in his first visit to the Gulf of
California, in 1587, found there a small burrowing
animal which he describes with " a head like a co-
nic, the feet of a mole, and the tail of a rat, with a
pouch under each cheek." It appears to be the same
animal which is here known by the name of the
gopher^ and which, so far as my reading extends,
remains undescribed in zoological works. 1 had
previously noticed the ravages of this animal in the
prairies of Arkansas, ploughing up in some instan-
ces entire fields, and mentioned it in my remarks
upon the Missourian mines, but owing to its extreme
shyness, could never obtain a sight of the animal. —
We were here, however, gratified, through the po-
liteness of Col. Leavenworth, who directed a couple
of soldiers to exert themselves in procuring one.
It is about ten inches long from the nose to the in-
sertion of the tail, with a body shaped very much
like that of a large wharf-rat, which it also resem-

304

bles in the colour of its hair and the length and nu-
dity of its tail. Its legs are short, and each fool
furnished with five long and sharp claws. It hae
two large fore teeth in each jaw, resembling those
of the squirrel, but its most remarkable character
is a pouch on each side of the jaw formed bj a du-
plicature of the skin of the cheek. These project
inwardly, where they are accommodated by an un-
usual width, and flattening out of the head. As the
animal lives wholly under ground, like the mole,
these pouches serve the purpose of bags for carry-
ing the earth out of their holes. They are filled
with the fore claws, and emptied at the mouth of the
hole by a power which it possesses of ejecting the
pouches from each cheek, in the manner that a cap
or stocking is turned. In this way it works its path
under ground, and ploughs up the prairies in many
places in such a manner, that the white hunters of
Missouri and Arkansas frequently avail themselveg
of the labours of the gopher by planting corn upon
the prairies which have been thus mellowed. It
lives entirely upon the roots of plants eating all with
indiscriminate voracity, and has been found partic-
ularly destructive to beets, carrots, and other tap-
rooted plants in the military gardens at St. Peter's.

LXX. Day. — {August \st.) — A treaty of peace
was this day concluded between the Sioux and Chip-
peways in the presence of Governor Cass, Colonel
Leavenworth, Mr. Tallifierro, the Indian agent at
St. Peter's, and a number of the officers of the gar-
rison. These two nations have been at war from the
earliest times, and the original causes of it are en-
tirely forgotten, but still the ancient enmity ia care-

305

fully transmitted from father to son. It is supposed
to have arisen from a dispute respecting the limits of
their territories, and favourite hunting grounds, but
if so, nothing was agreed upon in the present in-
stance to obviate the original causes of enmity. It
was only stipulated that hostilities should immediately
cease on both sides. Several of the chiefs delivered
their opinions upon the subject, and the Sioux ap-
peared to manifest some indiflference to the treaty,
but finally consented to drop the hatchet ; and the
ceremony concluded with smoking the pipe of
peace and shaking hands. In this nearly every in-
dividual present united. The Sioux who attended
the council were numerous, having been gathering
in from the different villages from the time of our ar-
rival; on the part of the Chippeways there were on-
ly present the deputies who accompanied us for that
purpose from the sources of the Mississippi, The
conduct of the latter, on our approach to St. Peter's,
manifested the anxiety they felt on the subject, at
the same time that it reveals a new trait in the char-
acter and customs of the Indian tribes. During the
first two or three days after our departure from San-
dy Lake, they proceeded very much at their ease,
sometimes ahead of the expedition, at others in the
rear — very seldom with us, and at night they usual-
ly encamped by themselves three or four hundred
yards otf : But the moment we entered the Sioux
territories, they made it a point to keep close with
the expedition, never venturing ahead, or lagging
much in the rear, and at night they formed their en-
campment in the midst of ours. As we approached
the falls of St. Anthony they requested of Governor

39

:Jo6

Cass, a flag for their canoe, which was granted, and
durinii; the whole of that day they kept a peace-pipe
hoisted on the bow of their canoe. When we em-
barked below the falls of St. Anthony, ♦hey com-
menced beating upon their drum, singing, whoop-
ing, and frequently firing into the air, increasing the
tumult as we came near to the fort, that the Sioux
might be advertised of their approach ; but the prin-
cipal object of these ceremonies was to let their en-
emies know, that they came unto their territories up-
on a mission of peace — openly and boldly — and ex-
pected to be received by them with sentiments of
corresponding liberality, frankness, and concilia-
tion. Nor were they disappointed : they were taken
by the hand in a friendly manner by those Sioux who
had collected on our first landing at the garrison,
and the pipe of peace immediately smoked between
them, and this ceremony continued as fast as the
Sioux arrived, so that the object of the public trea-
ty held at the department of the Indian agent,
where these ceremonies were repeated, was more
with a view of having it witnessed by the agents of
the United States, than to render binding upon
their respective tribes, a pacification which had al-
ready been privately and individually determined
upon. It has, however, been mentioned, that there
was some indiiference manifested to this treaty on
the part of the Sioux, and those chiefs and warriors
who discovered this unconquerable spirit of animos-
ity, could not be induced to smoke the pipe of peace,
although the cessation of hostilities had their tacit
consent. \Vhether the peace will prove a perma-
nent one, may be doubted. All their ancient preju-
dices will urge them to a violation of it, while past

307

€i5perience abundantly shews liovv difficult it has
been to preserve a lasting peace between two pow-
erful rival tribes of savages, whose predominant dis-
position is war, and if a durable peace should result
from the laudable exertions of the agents of govern-
ment in effecting this pacific conference, it will pro-
bably be owing in a great measure to a continuance
of those exertions, supported as they are, by the in-
fluence of the garrisons at St. Peters, Prairie da
Chien, Council Bluffs, Green Bay, and other mi-
nor posts along our extensive Indian frontiers, la
1805, a treaty of peace was concluded between the
Sioux and Chippeways at the instance of Lieuten-
ant Pike. It continued as loner as he remained
among them. In the fall of liJlS, a pacification took
place at St. Louis under the auspices of Governor
Clark, between the Osages and the Cherokees. The
latter renewed hostilities before they reached their
homes. This only proves, that treaties of peace be-
tween Indian tribes, like those between civilized na-
tions, only amount to a momentary cessation of hos-
tilities, unless the limits of their territories, and oth-
er subjects of dispute, are accurately defined, and
satisfactorily settled.

The numerical strength of the Sioux nation was
stated by the late General Pike at 21,675, three
thousand eight hundred of whom are warriors. This
is the most powerful Indian tribe in North America.
It consists of seven bands, namely, the Minokan-
tongs, the Yengetongs, the Sissitongs, the Wahpetongs,
the Titongs, the Mendewacantongs, and the Wash-
pecoutongs. These are independent bands, under
their ow-n chiefs, but united in a confederacy for the
protection of their territories, and send deputies to

308

a sfeneral council of the chiefs and warriors when-
ever the concerns of their nation require it. If one
of the tribes is attacked, the others are expected
to assist in the repulsion of the enemy. They in-
habit all the country between the Mississippi and
Missouri rivers, from north latitude about 46" to
the junction of these rivers near St. Louis, with tri-
fling exceptions in favour of some scattered bands of
Foxes, Sacs, and Kickapoos. Their country also
extends south of the Missouri, where the principal
part of the Titongs reside, and east of the Missis-
sippi to the territories of the Chippeways — the Win-
nebagoes, and the Menomonies. The greatest
chief of the nation, at present, is Talangamane, or
the Red wing.

The Minokantongs, or people of the waters, are
located at St Peter's, and along the banks of the
Mississippi towards Prairie duChien. They reside
in four principal villages, distinguished by the names
of their respective chiefs; Chatawaconamie, or La
Petit Corbeau — Talangamane, or the Red wing —
Tatamane, or the wind-that-walks, and Wabashaw.

The Yengetongs and the Sissitongs inhabit the up-
per parts of the river St. Peter's, and are sometimes
called the Sioux of the Plains. Their traffic is prin-
cipally in Buffalo robes. The first chief is Muck-
peanutah, or the Red Cloud. The Wahpetongs, or
people of the Leaves, are the most erratic in their
dispositions of all the Sioux. They inhabit the St.
Peter's between the Prairie De Francois and the
White Rock, during a part of the year, and general-
ly go out to hunt above the falls of St. Anthony to-
wards the sources of the river De Corbeau, and up-
on the plains which give origin to the Crow, Sac,

309

and Elk rivers. Their principal chief is Wakunska,
or the Rolling Thunder.

The Titonajs inhabit both banks of the Missouri,
and rove in quest of game over an immense extent
of country. They are said to be related to the Ma-
has, and some other bands south of the Missouri.

The Mendewacantongs, or people of the Medicine
Lake, — the Washpecoutongs, or people of the
Leaves ivho have ran away, and some other scattered
bands whose names are unknown, inhabit the coun-
try generally, from the St. Peter's south to the mouth
of the Missouri, and are chiefly located upon the
sources of ihe rivers Ocano, Iowa, and Desmoines.

The Sioux are generally represented as a brave,
spirited, and generous people, with proud notions
of their origin as a tribe, and their superiority as
hunters and warriors, and with a predominant pas-
sion for war. They speak the Narcotah language,
which is peculiar to themselves, and appears to have
little affinity with any other Indian tongue. It is not
so soft and sonorous as the Algonquin which abounds
in labials, but more so, than the Winnebago, which
is the most harsh and gutteral language in America.
The Narcotah sounds to an English ear, like the
Chinese, and both in this, and other respects, the
Sioux are thought to present many points of coinci-
dence. It is certain that their manners and customs
differ essentially from those of any other tribe, and
their physiognomy, as well as their language, and
opinions, mark them as a distinct race of people. —
Their sacrifices and their supplications to the un-
known God — their feasts after any signal deliver-
ance from danger — their meat, and their burnt of-
ferings— the preparation of incense, and certain cus-

310

toms of their iemales, offer too striking a coiiici-
dence with the manners of the Asiatic tribes before
the commencement of the christian era, to escape
observation, while their paintings and hieroglyphics
bear so much analogy to those of the Azteeks of Mex-
ico, as to render it probable that the latter are of
Naudowessian origin. But these hints are merely
thrown oat for the investigation of the future enqui-
rer, as my limited opportunities of observation, and
the short period of our sojournment among them,
forbid any thing like systematic research, which is
the more to be regretted as this tribe has recently
assumed a more interesting attitude with respect to
the United States, and as the time for conducting
these enquiries with any probability of success, is
rapidly receding under the pressure of an enter-
prizing European population. It is to be hoped
tliat some spirited traveller, possessed of the ne-
cessary qualifications, will select their territories as
the theatre of his researches, and I doubt not, that he
would find more among them to elucidate the origin
and history of the aborigines of our country, than
among any other tribe upon the continent.

"From my knowledge of the Sioux nation," ob-
serves Lieutenant Pike, "I do not hesitate to pro-
nounce thcT* the most warlike and independent na-
tion of Indians within the boundaries of the United
States, their every passion being subservient to that
of war ; but at the same time their traders feel them-
selves perfectly secure of any combination being
made against them, but it is extremely necessary to
be careful not to injure the honour of an individual,
which is certainly the cause of the many broils which
occur between them. But never was a trader know;%

311

to suffer in the estimation of the nation by resenting
any indignity offered him ; even if he went to taking
the life of the offender. Their gutteral pronuncia-
tion— high cheek bones — their visages, and distinct
manners, together with their own traditions, sup-
ported by the testimony of neighbouring nations,
put it in my mind beyond the shadow of a doubt,
that they have emigrated from the northwest point
of America, to which they had come across the
narrow streights, which in that quarter, divide the
two continents ; and are absolutely descendants of a
Tartarean tribe."*

As an instance of the generosity of this nation,
the following anecdote is related. La Petit Cor-
beau, chief of a small band of Sioux, located upon
the banks of the Mississippi, towards the confines of
the Chippeway territories, going out one morning to
examine his beaver trap, found a Sauteur in the act
of stealing it. He had approached without exciting
alarm, and while the Sauteur was engaged in taking
the trap from the water, he stood maturely survey-
ing him with a loaded rifle inhis hands. As the two
nations were at war, and the offence was in itself one
of the most h'^'nous nature, he would have been jus-
tified in killing him upon the spot, and the thief look-
ed for nothing else, on finding himself detected. But
the Sioux chief walking up to him discovered a no-
bleness of disposition which would have done hon-
our to the most enlightened of men. " Take no
alarm, said he, at my approach; I only come to pre-
sent to you the trap of which I see you stand in
need. You are entirely welcome to it. Take my gun

* Pike's Expeditions.

312

also, as I perceive you have none ofyouro vn, and
depart with it to the land of your countrymen, but
linger not here, lest some of my young men who are
panting for the blood of their enemies, should dis-
cover your foot steps in our country, and fall upon
you." So saying, he delivered him his gun and ac-
coutrements, and returned unarmed lo the village of
which he is so deservedly the chief.

There are several antique mounds and circumvalla-
lions upon the banks of the St. Peter's, which are said
to indicate an industrious population, and an intimate
acquaintance with geometrical solids, which are
still to be traced among the full-grown trees of the
forest which now overshadows these enigmatical
works. The most remarkable of these, are stated to
be about forty miles above the mouth of the St. Pe-
ter's, near the junction of that branch which is de-
nominated Carver's river. I regret that I can say
nothing concerning them from actual inspection. —
They are among the number of interesting traits,
the examination and description of which, would
so richly reward an exploration of this important
river.

About six miles west of the new cantonement
there are several beautiful little lakes, situated in
the prairies. They consist of the purest water and
are surrounded with a handsome beach of yellow
sand and water-worn pebbles, among which are to
be found fragments of the most highly coloured car-
nelians, and ribband agates. The largest of these
lakes is about four miles in circumference, and is
called Calhoun lake, it is stored with the most ex-
quisite flavoured black bass and several other vari-
eties of fish, and has become a fashionable resort

313

jlDor the officers of the garrison. The intermediate
country is a prairie, and is travelled in all directions
on horseback. It is not, however, a level plain, but
consists of gentle slopes and ascents, and the clumps
of trees which are scattered over it, give a pleasing
variety to the scene. In the season of verdure, the
waving heath-grass, — the profusion of wild flowers,
and the sweet-scented Indian grass, while they fill
the air with a refreshing fragrance, delight the eye
with the richness and never-ending variety of their
colours; and viewed under the influence of a gentle
western breeze, which is seldom wanting, leave no-
thing to complete the picture of the most enchanting
rural beauty.

Among the animated productions of nature which
serve to enliven and diversify the scene, there is a
new species of burrowing squirrel, something larger
than the common striped ground squirrel, with an
elongated body and short legs, approaching in shape
the mustela nivalis, or brown weasel. But the most
striking difference is found in its colour, which is a red-
dish brown with four longitudinal black stripesupon
the back, spotted with yellow, and resembling in this
respect, the skin of the African leopard. It is a beau-
tiful little animal — burrows in the ground, and feeds
upon ground nuts and esculent roots. It has been
found destructive to the gardens at St. Peter's.

The temperature of the atmosphere, and the
changes of weather during the journey from Sandy
lake, are indicated by the following —

40

314

Meteorological Table.

A. M.

1 P. M.

Mean
temp

Winds.

WEATHER.

1820.

5| 7| 8| 2| 8| 9

July 25

1 171

|85|?4|

76

Fair. Rain at night.

- 26

61| 1

18^611

67

S. W.

!Sror.cloudy,\vith rain — ev'n clear.

- 27

62| 1

|80|75|

72

Fair.

- 28

62| 1

|76|61|

66

Morn, fair — afternoon rain.

- 29

501 1

|74!62|

62

Fair. Flying clouds.

- 30

|601

|76| |63

66

N W.
\V.

Fair.

- 31
Aii^. 1

|65|

|81| |69

72

--

|67|

|8:,|70| 7o

W.

--

|8)554|

69| mean

temperature.

€HAPTER XL

J O U R JV E Y,

FROM ST. PETER^S TO PRAIRIE DU CHIEK.

i^i

LXXI. jy^Y, —(Jlugust 2d.)

Leaving the mouth of the St. Peter's at nine
o'clock, we proceeded down the Mississippi thirty-
eight miles, and encamped at twilight upon the west
shore, nine leagues below the village of La Petit
Corbeau. About twelve miles below the new garri-
son at St. Peter's, we stopped to examine a remarka-
ble cavern on the east banks of the Mississippi, called
Wakon-teehe, by the Narcotah or Sioux Indians, but
which, in compliment to the memory of its first Eu-
ropean visitor, should be denominated Carver's
cave. It is situated in a rock of the most beautiful
white sand stone, at the head of a small valley about
four hundred yards from the banks of the river. Its
mouth is about sixty or seventy feet wide and twen-
ty in height, but the former soon decreases to about
twenty feet, and the latter to seven. This width
gradually lessens as you advance during the first
hundred yards, but the height remains nearly the
same, so that a man can walk without stooping. — >
Then it tapers into a narrow passage, where it ist

necessary to creep, which suddenly opens into a
spacious chamber. From this a narrow crevice
continues as far as it has been explored. Some of
our party pursued it four hundred yards by the hght
of wax candles. It is very damp and chilly. There
is a handsome stream of pure water running from its
mouth. The temperature of the air in the cave was
54° — that of the water 47^ As it is situated in sand
stone rock, it affords no stalactites, or spars. Some
parts of the rocJk at the mouth are coloured green,
probably by the carbo^at of copper. The bed of
the brook is eomposed of a crystalline sand of the
most snowy whiteness, originating from the disin-
tegration of the surrounding walls. Scattered over
this, are a number of small pebbles of so ii tensely
black a colour as to create a pleasing contrast,
when viewed through the medium of a clear stream.
These, on examination, proved to be masses of lime
stone, granite, and quartz, coloured externally by a
thin deposit of earthy matter, and I conclude the
colour to proceed from the gallic acid, with which
the water, percolating into the cavern, through the
beds of oak leaves of the superincumbent forest,
may be partially saturated. This cave has been
visited by most persons who have passed up the Mis-
sissippi, if we may judge from the number of names
found upon the walls. Among them we were inform-
ed was that of Captain Carver, who visited it in 1768>
but we did not observe it. His grant of land from
the Indians, is dated in this cave, but the cave it-
self, appears to have undergone a considerable al-
teration since that period, for he says that " aboul
twenty feet from the entrance begins a lake, the wa-
ter of which is transparent, and extends to an un-

317

searchable distance." As the rock is of a \ety fria-
ble nature, and easily acted upon by running wa-
ter, it is probable that the lake has been discharg-
ed, thus enlarging the boundaries of the cave. He
also remarks, " At a little distance from this dreary
cavern, is the burying place of several bands of the
Nawdowessie (Sioux) Indians. Though these peo-
ple have no fixed residence, living in tents, and abi-
ding but a few months in one spot, yet they always
bring the bones of their dead to this place ; which
they take the opportunity of doing when the chiefs
m^t to hold their councils, and to settle the public
affairs for the ensuing summer." We noticed no bones
or traces of interment about the cave, but perhaps
a further examination of the adjacent region would
have led to a discovery.

Four miles below Carver's cave, we landed at
the village of La Petit Corbeau, or the Little Raven.
Here is a Sioux band of twelve lodges, and consist-
ing of about two hundred souls, who plant corn up-
on the adjoining plain, and cultivate the cucumber,
and pumpkin. They sallied from their lodges on
seeing us approach, and gathering upon the bank of
the river fired a kind offeu-de-joie, and manifested the
utmost satisfaction on our landing. La Petit Cor-
beau was among the first to greet us. He is a man
below the common size, but brawny and well pro-
portioned, and although rising of fifty years of age,
retains the looks and vigour of forty. There is a
great deal of fire in his eyes which are black and
piercing — his nose is prominent and has the aquiline
curve, his forehead falling a little from the facial an-
gle, and his whole countenance animated, and ex-
pressive of a shrewd mind. We were conducted

318

into his cabin which is spacious, being about sixty
ket in length by thirty in width— built in a perma-
nent manner of logs, and covered with bark. Be-
ing seated, he addressed Governor Cass in a speech
of some length, in which he expressed his satisfac-
tion on seeing him there, and said that in his exten-
sive journey he must have experierrced a good ma-
ny hardships and difficulties, aivJ ^een a great deal
of the Indian way of living, and of the country — all
of which would enable him to see things in their
proper light. He said he was glad that the Govern-
or had not, like many other officers and agents of Hie
United States who had lately visited those regions,
passed by his village without calling. He particularly
alluded to the officers of the establishment at St. Pe-
ter's, and said they had generally passed upon the oth-
er side of the river. He observed that he had attend-
ed several councils at St. Peter's, and given away a
number of pipes, but got nothing in return. He ac-
quiesced in the treaty which had lately been conclu-
ded with the Chippeways, and was happy that
a stop had been put to the effusion of human blood.
He then adverted to a recent attack of a party of
Fox Indians upon some of their people towards the
sources of the river St. Peter's, in which nine men
had been killed. He considered it a dastardly act,
and said if that little tribe, should continue to haunt
their territories in a hostile manner, they would at
length drive him into anger, and compel him to do a
thing he did not wish. These were the principal
topics of his speech ; some minor points were ad-
verted to, and he several times repeated his obliga-
tions for the honour of our visit. He spoke with de-
liberation, and without that wild gesticulation which

310

is common among savages. Two or three other
persons afterwards spoke, but I was not struck with
any expressions of much point. They repeated
several things that had before been said, and deliv-
ered pacific sentiments in the most furious manner.

While these things were going forward, the Indian
women were busily engaged in gathering green corn,
and each one came into the centre of the chief's
cabin and threw a basket full upon a common pile,
which made a formidable appearance before the
speakers ceased, and it was absolutely necessary to
forbid their bringing more. This was intended as
a present, and we took away as much as we could
conveniently find storage for, in our canoes.

Our attention was now drawn off by the sounds of
Indian music which proceeded from another large
cabin at no great distance, but we found the doors
closed, and were informed that they were celebrating
an annual feast, at which only certain persons in the
village were allowed to be present, and that it was
not customary ever to admit strangers. Our curios-
ity, however, being excited, we applied to Govern-
or Cass to intercede for us, and were by that means
admitted. The first striking object presented was
two large kettles full of green corn, cut from the cob
and boiled. They hung over a moderate fire in the
centre of the cabin, and the Indians, both men and
women, were seated in a large circle around them.
They were singing a doleful song in the savage man-
ner, accompanied by the Indian drum, and gourd-
rattle. The utmost solemnity was depicted upon
every countenance not engaged in singing, and
when the music ceased, which it frequently did for
n few seconds, there was a still and mysterious pause.

320

during which certain pantomimic signs were madcj
and it appeared as if they pretended to hold commu-
nication with invisible spirits. Suddenly the music
struck up, and the singing commenced, but as we
did not understand their language, it is impossible
to say what they uttered, or to whom their supplica-
tions or responses were addressed. In the course
of these ceremonies a young man and his sister, join-
ing hands, came forward towards the centre of the
cabin. We were told they were about to be admit-
ted to the rights of partaking of the feast, but there
was nothing striking in the ceremony, and all its in-
terest was lost to us, because we could not under-
stand the questions which were asked and the an-
swers given. The voice of every one appeared to
be taken in their admission, which was unanimous.
When this ceremony ceased, one of the elder In-
dians, dished out all the boiled corn into separate
dishes for as many heads of families as there were
present, putting an equal number of ladles full into
each dish. Then, while the music continued, they,
one by one, took up their dishes and retiring from the
cabin by a backward step, so that they still faced
the kettles, separated to their respective lodges, and
thus the ceremony ceased. We are told, however,
that several important things were omitted on ac-
count of our being present. From all that could be
learned, it was a feast in honour of the Cereal god-
dess, or manito, of the Indians, which is annually held
when the corn first becomes suitable for boiling in
the ear.

LXXII. D AY, —{Jugust 3(/.)— -We embarked at five
o'clock- On descending the river six wiles, v^e

S2r

passed the mouth of the river St. Croix, which en-
ters on the east shore by a channel of one hundred
yards in width. It is connected by a portage of two
pauses, with the Bois Brule river of Lake Superior,
and in its whole extent is not interrupted by a sin-
gle fall or rapid. It is said to be the most practica-
ble, easy, and expeditious water communication
between the Mississippi river and Lake Superior. —
About five hundred yards above its mouth, it ex-
pands into a lake, called Lake St. Croix, which is
thirty-six miles long, and from one and a half to
three in breadth. Sixty miles above the head of
this lake, the southwest company have an establish-
ment. The country around its mouth is claimed by
the Sioux; its sources are inhabited by a band of
Foille avoine Chippeways, and the Chippeways of
the Burnt woods. There is an island in the Mis-
sissippi opposite its junction. At this place, the river
bluffs assume an increased height, and more impo-
sing aspect, and in the course of the succeeding
fifty miles, we are presented with some of the most
majestic and pleasing scenery which adorns the
banks of the upper Mississippi. In many places
the calcareous bluffs terminate in pyramids of na-
ked rocks, which resemble the crumbHng ruins of
antique towers, and aspire to such a giddy height
above the level of the water, that the scattered oaks
which cling around their rugged summits seem
dwindled to the most diminutive size; — at others,
the river is contracted between two perpendicular
walls of opposing rock, which appear to have been
sundered to allow it an undisturbed passage to the
ocean, and not unfrequently, these walls are half

41

322

buFied in their own ruins, and present a striking
exam])]e of the wasting effects of time upon the cal-
careous strata of our planet. Sometimes, there is a
rock bluff on one bank, and an extensive plain of al-
luvion on the other, contrasting with the finest effect,
the barrenness of the mineral, with the luxuriant
herbage, and the rural beauty, of the vegetable
kingdom. Again, the hills recede from either shore,
and are veiled in tlie azure tint of the distant land-
scape, while the river assumes an amazing width,
and is beautified with innumerable islands, and we
find ourselves at once bewildered between the infin-
ity of its channels, and the attractive imagery of its
banks. Nor is the presence of animated nature
wanting, to enrich and beautify the scene. The
deer is frequently seen standing in the cool current
of the stream, gathering the moss from the hidden
rocks below, or surveying our approach from the
grassy summit of the impending cliif, with an un-
concern, which tells us how little it is acquainted
with the sight of man. The whole tribe of water-
fowl are found upon the river, and by the variety of
their plumage, and their shapes — the wildness of
their notes — and the liapping of their wings, serve
to diversify the scene, while the well known notes of
the robin, and other singing birds upon the shores,
which are the same that we have listened to in child-
hood, recall a train of the most pleasing reflections.
Nor is the red man, the lord of the forest, wanting.
His cottage is disclosed by the curling smoke upon
the distant hills, where he surveys with a satisfied eye
the varied creation upon the plains below; — the
deer — the elk — the water fowl — the river which
floats his canoe — the trees which overshadow the

323

grassy hills upon which he reposes during the heats
of noon — the thickets, where he arouses the sleep-
ing bear — the prairie, which gives vigour to his con-
stitution, and while he lifts his eye in gratitude to
the great spirit of life, for all these various bles-
swings, exclaims with the genuine poet of nature

'' Creation's heir — the world—the world is mine.''

At twelve o'clock we arrived at the Sioux village
of Talangamane, or the Red wing, which is hand-
somely situated on the west banks of the river, six
miles above Lake Pepin. It consists of four large,
and several small lodges, built of logs in the man-
ner of the little Raven's village. Talangamane is
now considered the first chief of his nation, which
honour it is said he enjoys both on account of his
superior age and sagacity. He appears to be about
sixty, and bears all the marks of that age. Very
few of his people were at home, being engaged in
hunting or fishing. We observed several fine corn
fields near the village, but they subsist chiefly by
taking sturgeon in the neighbouring lake, and by
hunting the deer. The buffalo is also occasionally
killed, but they are obhged to go two days journey
west of the Mississippi, before this animal is found
in plenty. We observed several buffalo skins which
were undergoing the Indian process of tanning.—
The hair having been taken off in the manner of
dressing deer skins, the hides were stretched out
upon the ground and covered with a decoction of
oak and other bark, prepared by boiling the bits of
bark in water. A black colour was thus communi-
cated to the skin, and it is probable that sufficient

324

of the astringent principle of the bark is thus made
to unite with the gluten of the skin, to give it, in some
degree, the properties of leather. The idea is
probably borrowed from their intercourse with the
frontier settlers, althousfh the nearest tan-vard is
at St. Louis, eight hundred miles below.

Haifa mile east of Red wing's village there is an
isolated mountain, standing upon the brink of the
river, called the Grange, from the summit of which
you enjoy the most charming prospect. The im-
mense valley of the Mississippi, with the numerous
channels and islands of the river— the prairies and
forests — with the windings of a number of small
rivers which flow into the Mississippi, spread
like a map below the eye. The calcareous
bluffs which bound this valley, and terminate
the prospect towards the west, in a line of lofty
o-rey cliffs, throw an air of grandeur upon the scene,
which affords a pleasing coTitrast with the deep green
of the level prairies, and the silvery brightness of
the winding river. Turning the eye towards the
east, Lake Pepin spreads its ample sheet across the
entire valley of the river, from bluff to bluff, and
the indentures of its shores recede one behind an-
other, until they become too faint to be distinguish-
ed, and are terminated on the line of the horizon.
The altitude of this mountain cannot fall short of
eigrht hundred feet above the bed of the river. It
presents an abrupt mural precipice towards the Mis-
sissippi, but slopes off gradually towards the south,
and is covered with grass, and a few scattering oaks.
Its sides are strewed with beautiful crystals of vio-
let coloured, and radiated quartz, and with
masses of iron ore crystallized in cubes and octa-

3f5

Iiedrons. A specimen of lead ore (^galena) was also
shewn to us by one of Talangamane's people, and
a mine is reported to exist in the vicinity, but we
could procure no information which is to be relied
upon, concerning its situation and extent.

In ascending this mountain we first noticed the
rattlesnake, (crotahis horridus) which is found, how-
ever, as far north as the falls of St. Anthony, (north
latitude 45°.) One of the most remarkable facts in
the natural history of this dreadful animal, is, that
its poison may be taken internally w ithout any dan-
ger. A spoonful, it is affirmed, may be swallowed
at a time, without producing any ill effects upon
the constitution. This, is the characteristic differ-
ence between animal and vegetable poisons. It is
well known that the virus of this animal is secreted
in a small cavity at the root of the fangs, which are
shaped like the claws of a cat, and are hollow, and
that it is ejected through these tubes at the instant
it inflicts the wound. It has been stated, on the
authority of Mr. Peale, proprietor of the Philadel-
phia museum, that an animal punctured with the
fangs of the rattlesnake, for years after they have
been taken out and dried, will produce almost instant
death, and that he employed acids and alkalies to
deprive them of this poisonous property, without
success. The poison of serpents is found to be
more virulent, and to operate with greater activity, in
warm, than in cold climates, nor is it equally fatal
to all animals. The hog, for instance, devours the
rattlesnake without danger, and is even said to
thrive and fatten upon it. Charlevoix mentions a
plant, which is an antidote to the bite of this
snake, called the rattle snake plant (Jierbe a serpente

32G

(t soncties) which grows abundanliy throughout this
country. " This plant," he remarks, " is beautiful
and easily known. Its stem is round and somewhat
thicker than a goose-quill, rising to the height of
three or four feet, and terminates in a yellow flower
of the figure and size of a yellow daisey. This
flower has a \ery sweet scent. The leaves of the
plant are oval, narrow, sustained, five and five, in
form of a turkey cock's foot, by a peduncle or foot
stalk an inch long." In another place, speaking of
the citron^ he remarks " The root of this tree is a
mortal and most subtil poison, and at the same
time a most sovereign antidote against the bite of
serpents. It must be bruised and applied instantly
on the wound : this remedy is immediate and infalli-
ble." The plant alluded to in both instances, ap-
pears to be the common mandrake, or podophyllum
peltatum of modern botai\v. The poisonous pro-
perties of this plant are mentioned by another of
the elder travellers of tl»e region, whose work has
long since ceased to be quoted, the Baron La Hon-
tan, who says that the expressed juice of this plant,
taken internally, produces instant death; and re-
lates an instance of an Iroquois woman, making use
of it on the disease of her husband. She soon fell
into shivering fits, and expired in his presence.

In our times the common plantain (^plantago ma-
jor) has been frequently mentioned as an infallible
cure, both for the bite of tlie rattlesnake, and the
tarantula, or great black field spider ; but I cannot
allude to any particular cases in which it has been
successfully applied. There is an old story, which
relates that the curative qualities of the plantain, in
cases of animal poison, was first discovered in ihf^

ioliowing manner : An aged black man in one of the
southern states, being out in the field, h .ppened to
witness a combat between the tarantula and a toad :
the latter appeared frequently to be vanquished, but
as often retreated to a stem of plantain, growing
near, and eating some of the leaves, returned to
the combat. Observing this, the plantain was pul-
led up, when the toad on returning, and finding it
taken away, immediately swelled up and died. This
gave the hint for applying it in cases of the bite of
venomous snakes, and the discoverer alluded to, ac-
quired celebrity for the cures he effected by the use
of it. Whether the Virginia snake-root, {aristolochia
serpentaria) is applied as an antidote to the poison
of serpents, I am unable to say. Ergotted rye, is
also among the number of simples, which have been
lately recommended in cases of the bite of the rat-
tlesnake.

At one o'clock in the afternoon we entered Lake
Pepin. This beautiful sheet of water is an expan-
sion of the Mississippi river, six miles below the
Sioux village of Talangamane, and one hundred be-
low the falls of St. Anthony. It is twenty-four miles
in length, with a width of from two to four miles, and
is indented with several bays, and prominent points,
which serve to enhance the beauty of the prospect.
On the east shore, there is a lofty range of limestone
bluffs, which are much broken and crumbled — some-
times run into pyramidal peaks — and often present
a character of the utmost sublimity. On the west,
there is a high level prairie, covered with the most
luxuriant growth of grass, and nearly destitute of
forest trees. From this plain several conical hills
ascend, which, at a distance, present the appear-

3^28

ance of vast artificial mounds or pyramids, and it is
difficult to jeconcile their appearance with the gen-
eral order of nature, by any other hypothesis. This
lake is beautifully circumscribed by a broad beach
of clean washed gravel, which often extends from the
foot of the surrounding highlands, three or four hun-
dred yards into the lake, forming gravelly points
upon which there is a delightful walk, and scalloping
out the margin of the lake, with the most pleasing
irregularity. In walking along these, the eye is at-
tracted by the various colours of the mineral gems,
which are promiscuously scattered among the wa-
ter-worn debris of granitic, and other rocks, and the
carnelian, agate, and chalcedony, are met with at
every step. The size of these gems is often as large
as the egg of the partridge, and the transparency,
and beauty of colour, is only excelled by the choi-
cest oriental specimens. There is no perceptible
current in the lake, during calm weather, and the
water partakes so little of the turbid character of
the lower Mississippi, that objects can be distinctly
seen through it, at the depth of eight or ten feet. —
It is plentifully stored with a variety of fish, the
most remarkable of which is the shovel-nosed stur-
geon^ which is so called from a protuberance
which extends from the end of the nose about four-
teen inches — is four in width, and quite thin, in
which respect, as well as in the shape of this pro-
cess, it bears a striking resemblance to a physi-
cian's spatula. In other respects its size and gene-
ral appearance corresponds with the small sturgeon
of lakes Huron and Superior. This extension of
the nose, appears designed to enable the animal to
agitato the mud along the shores, and on the bot-

329

torn of (he Mississippi, in quest of certain animaicu-
la, which are supposed to be its favourite food. The
shores of this lake, also, appear favourable to the
growth of crustaceous fish, and an examination of
the different varieties which are presented, would
probably result in the discovery of one or two new
species. In no place have I ever noticed the fresh
water muscle, attain so large a size. One of these,
which I procured, measures seven inches in length,
by five and a half in width, and the thickness, tak-
en at right angles with the most convex part of the
shell, is a little less than four inches.

Lake Pepin receives two of the tributary streams
of the Mississippi, called the river au Canoe, and
Porcupine-quill river. The former has, by a gene-
ral mistake, (which I did not myself detect until my
map was engraved) been called Cannon river;
and I have elsewhere spoken of it, under the name
of Ocano, being the popular pronunciation of the?
French term. It flows into Lake Pepin from the
west, near its head; and is one of the principal
hunting grounds of the Red wing's band. Porcu-
pine-quill river, enters in a large bend on the east
shore, about midway of the length of the lake, and
is noted as the ancient site of a French fort and
trading factory. We did not stop to examine the
remains of this establishment, which it is said, are
still visible.

In passing through Lake Pepin, our interpreter
pointed out to us a high precipice, on the east shore
of the lake, from which an Indian girl, of the Sioux
nation, had many years ago, precipitated herself ia
a fit of disappointed love. She had given her heart;

42

330

it appears, to a young chief of her own tribe, who
was very much attached to her, but the alHance
was opposed by her parents, who wished her to
marry an old chief, renowned for his wisdom and
his influence in the nation. As the union was in-
sisted upon, and no other way appearing to avoid it,
she determined to sacrifice her life in preference to
a violation of a former vow, and while the prepara-
tions for the marriage feast were going forward, left
her father's cabin, without exciting suspicion, and
before she could be overtaken, threw herself from
an awful precipice, and was instantly dashed to a
thousand pieces. Such an instance of sentiment is
rarely to be met with among barbarians, and should
redeem the name of this noble-minded sirl fromob-
livion. It was Oola-lta. {Oo-la-i-ta )

Having descended the river sixty-seven miles, we
encamped on a gravelly beach on the east shore of
Lake Pepin, at six o'clock in the evening, the wea-
ther threatening a storm. In the vicinity of our
encampment, we observed the asparagus growing
along the shore. The seeds had probably been drop-
ped by some former traveller. At eight o'clock, it
commenced raining, and continued, at short inter-
vals, during a great part of the night, attended with
severe thunder, and the most vivid flashes of light-
ning.

LXXIII. Day. — (August 4th.) — We proceeded on
our descent at five o'clock. The rain had ceased
before day light, but the morning remained cloudy.
The lake is two miles and a half wide, opposite the
spot of our encampment, but narrows gradually to-
wards its outlet, which is ten miles below. The

331

bcenevy during this distance is highly picturesque
and beautiful. The precipices on the east are high,
and shoot up into spiral points, yet are covered par-
tially with grass and shrubbery. On the west we
observe nothing but an elevated level prairie. The
contrast produces the finest effect. At the precise
point of exit of the Mississippi river, from Lake
Pepin, the Chippeway, or Sauteaux river, comes in
from the east. It is half a mile wide at its mouth,
and its sources are connected with the Montreal
river of Lake Superior. Below the junction of this
stream, the Mississippi has an increased width, and
contains a great number of small willow and cotton-
wood islands, and the navigation is rendered more
difficult, on account of the innumerable sand bars
which here first make their appearance. They are
attributable, in a great measure, to the immense
quantity of sand brought down by the Chippeway
river.

A few miles below Lake Pepin on the west bank
of the Mississippi, are the remains of one of the
most interesting and extensive of those ancient cir-
cumvallations, which are so frequently found through-
out the valley of the Mississippi, and its confluent
streams, and whose origin, notwithstanding the lapse
of half a century since they first began to attract
the notice of philosophic enquirers, still remains
veiled in the impenetrable mist of obscurity. The
work in question was in fact one of the earliest that
excited notice, but the hints which were thrown out
by Carver in 1768, with respect to this work, ap-
pear to have escaped the attention of succeeding
travellers and enquirers, and as yet no plan of it*
has been taken. As ogr ppportunities did not allow

332

us to supply this deficiency, by actual observation,
I shall here present the remarks of the enterprising
traveller alluded to, in order to excite the attention
of those who may hereafter visit the region.

" One day having landed on the shore of the Mis-
sissippi, some miles below Lake Pepin, whilst my
attendants were preparing my dinner, I walked out
to take a view of the adjacent country. I had not
proceeded far before I came to a fine, level, open
plain, on which I perceived, at a little distance, a
partial elevation that had the appearance of an in-
trenchment. On a nearer inspection, 1 had greater
reason to suppose that it had really been intended
for this many centuries ago. Notwithstanding it was
now covered with grass, I could plainly discern that
jt had once been a breast-work of about four feet in
height, extending the best part of a mile, and suffi-
ciently capacious to cover five thousand men. Its
form was somewhat circular, and its flanks reached
to the river. Though much defaced by time, every
angle was still distinguishable, and appeared as re-
gular, and fashioned with as much military skill, as
if planned by Vauban himself The ditch was not
visible, but I thought on examining more curiously,
that I could perceive there certainly had been one.
From its situation also, I am convinced that it must
have been designed for this purpose. It fronted the
country (the west) and the rear was covered by the
river ; nor was there any rising ground for a consid-
erable distance that commanded it ; a few straggling
oaks were alone to be seen near it. In many places
small tracks (paths) were Avorn across it by the feet
of the elks and deer, and from the depth of the bed
of the earth by which it was covered, I was able to

333

<lraw certain conclusions of its great antiquity. 1
examined all the angles and every part with great
attention, and have often blamed myself since, for
not encamping on the spot, and drawing an exact
plan of it. To shew that this description is not the
offspring of a heated imagination, or the chimerical
tale of a mistaken traveller. I find, on enquiry since
my return, that Monsieur St. Pierre and several oth-
er traders have, at different times, taken notice of
similar appearances, on which they have formed the
same conjectures, but without examining them so
minutely as I did. How a work of this kind could
exist in a country that has I itherto (according to the
generally received opinion) been the seat of war to
untutored Indians alone, whose whole stock of mili-
tary knowledge has only, till within two centuries,
amounted to drawing the bow, and whose only breast-
work even at present, is the thicket, 1 know not,
I have given as exact an account as possible of this
singular appearance, and leave to future explorers
of these distant regions, to discover whether it is a
production of nature or art. Perhaps the hints I
have here given might lead to a more perfect investi-
gation of it, and give us very different ideas of the
ancient state of realms that we at present believe to
have been from the earliest period only the habita-
tions of savages."*

This is the first notice, to the best of my recollec-
tion, ever taken by a transatlantic writer of those an-
tique works, which are now daily discovered, in
^very part of the western country, and after all that
has been poured out upon this subject, the conclud-

* Carver's Travels, p. 30.

334

ing observation of Carver, made in the American
wilderness sixty years ago, embraces half the sum
of our knowledge upon the subject at the present
day. The fact of the existence of a very extensive
work at the place above mentioned, is corroborated
by a conversation I have had on that subject with
Mr. Harman V. Hart, of tlie city of Albany, who has
spent five years as a trader in the Sioux countries,
and frequently visited the works in question, as well
as those upon the river St. Peter's, which are noti-
ced in another part of this journal.

At four o'clock in the afternoon, we made a short
halt at the Sioux village of Wabashaw, which is eli-
gibly situated on the west bank of the Mississippi,
sixty miles below Lake Pepin. It consists of four
large lodges, with a population of, probably, sixty
souls. A present of tobacco and whiskey was given,
and we ao-ain embarked at twenty minutes before
five o'clock.

A few miles below Wabashaw's village, an isolat-
ed mountain, of singular appearance, rises out of the
centre of the river, to a height of four or five hun-
dred feet, where it terminates in crumbling peaks of
naked rock, whose lines of stratification and massy
walls, impress forcibly upon the mind the im-
age of some gigantic battlement of former genera-
tions. Around its lower extremity, the alluvion of
the river has collected, forming a large island,
covered with a heavy forest, whose deep green
foliage forms a pleasing contrast with the barren
grandeur of the impending rocks, which project their
gothic pinnacles into the clouds, and cast a sombre
shadow over the broad and glittering bosom of the
Mississippi. This singular feature in the topo?.

335

graphy of the country, has long attracted the adrhi-
ration, and the wonder, of the voyageurs of the Mis-
sissippi, who have bestowed upon it the appellation
of The Mountain that sinks in the Water, {LaMoii'
taie;ne qui Trompe dans PEaii,) an opinion being pre-
valent among them, that it annually sinks a few feet.
This island-mountain is four or five miles in circum-
ference, with a mean width of half a mile, and by
dividing the channel of the river into two equal
halves, gives an immense width to the river, and
thus increases the grandeur of the prospect. It is
further remarkable as being the only fast, or rocky
island, in the whole course of this river, from the
Falls of Peckagama, to the Mexican Gulf. The
west channel of the Mississippi, opposite this moun-
tain, receives a small tributary, called The River of
the Mountain that Sinks in the Water, and the east
channel, another of similar size, called Buffalo river,
(La riviere an Bceuf.) Both may be considered in
the fourth class, as respects size and importance, of
the tributaries of the Mississippi. About five miles
below the Sinking Mountain, we encamped on the
west shore of the river, at seven in the evening, hav-
ing been twelve hours upon the river, and descend-
ed the current seventy miles. Immediately in the
rear of our camp, there was a lofty range of river
bluffs. I hastened to take a glimpse of their geolo^
gical character before the daylight disappeared,
and OQ gaining the summit, had a commanding view
of the extensive tract of bottom land on the oppo-
site side of the river, which consists, in part, of a
heavy wooded forest, interspersed with patches of
prairie, and bounded at the distance of four or five
miles, by a range of calcareous bluffs, correspond-

33a

ing, in gener*al appearance, to that upon which !
stood. The scene is checquered by the devious
course of Black River, which joins the Mississippi
in front, — by the mountain that sinks in tlie water
above, and the broad Mississippi, with its numerous
islands and channels, at a depression of four or iive
hundred feet below. Turning the eye towards the
west, the country has the general elevation of the
river bluffs. It is wooded with oak — with tracts
of prairie — and lies in ridges, some of which are
entirely covered with grass, and destitute of forest
trees. At the rapids of Black River, one day's
journey in a canoe from its mouth, there is a saw-
mill recently erected, by a gentleman at Prairie du
Chien, where boards and scantling are already saw-
ed for the purposes of building at the latter place.
Thus is the empire of the arts, and the march of Eu-
ropean population, gradually extending into regions
which have, heretofore, only resounded to the savage
war whoop, or if they have ever before witnessed a
civilized population, (as our tumuli, and antiquities
would lead us to infer,) the light of history, and the
voice of tradition, cast not a solitary beam to illu-
mine our researches, or direct us in elucidating the
mysterrous history of the aboriginal tribes, and the
ancient state of society, arts, and religion, upon our
continent.

A short time previous to our encampment, we ob-
served a large grey wolf in the river before us, mak-
ing its way for the opposite bank. In a moment ev-
ery canoe was pointed towards it, — every muscle
was strained to intercept its landing ; and we shot
down the stream with the rapidity of an eagle who
pounces upon his prey. The whooping of the In-

337

dians, — ^tlie shots that were firecl,— and the tumult of
so many paddles dashing in the water, gave great
spirit to this scene, but it was only of momen-
tary duration, as the wolf soon gained the sand^y
shore of the river, and shaking the water from his
meagre flanks, sprang into an adjoining thicket, and
in a moment disappeared.

LXXIV. Day. — (Jlugust 5tL) — It is ninety miles
from the spot of our encampment to Prairie du Chien.
We embarked a hw moments after three in the
morning, and reached the Prairie, at six in the af-
ternoon. As we descend, the Mississippi has a gra-
dual increase of size, and its valley a corresponding
width. — The calcareous bluffs continue on either
shore. In the course of this day, the river has been
swelled by the rivers Embarras, La Claire, and Ba:-
daxe, the two former uniting at the point of their en-
trance into the Mississippi.

The village of Prairie du Chien is pleasantly situ-
ated on the east bank of the river, on the verge of
one of those beautiful and extensive natural mead-
ows, which characterize the valley of the Mississip-
pi. It consists of about eighty buildings, including
the garrison, the principal part of which are of logs,
arranged in two streets parallel with the river,
and is estimated to have an aggregate population of
five hundred. This, is exclusive of the garrison, now
consisting of a company of infantry, ninety-six strong,
under the command of Capt. Fowle.

The village of Prairie du Chien takes its name
from a family of Fox Indians who formerly resided
there, and were distinguished by the appellation of
.Dogs. The present settlement was first begun in

43

338

J783, by Mr. Giard, Mr. Antaya, and Mr. Dubuque.
There had formerly been an old settlement about a
mile below tbe site of the present village, which ex-
isted during the time that the French held possession
of the Canadas, but it was abandoned, chiefly on ac-
count of its unhealthy situation, being near the bor-
ders of an extensive tract of overflowed grounds.
The early settlers, according to the principles adopt-
ed by Ihe French colonists in the Canadas, intermar-
ried with Indian women, and the present population
is the result of this connexion. In it, we behold the
only instance which our country presents, of the
complete and permanent civilization of the aborigi-
nes ; and it may be doubted, after all that has been
said upon the subject, whether this race can ever be
reclaimed from the savage state, by any other meth-
od. The result, in the present instance, is such as to
equal the most sanguine expectations of the philan-
thropist, in regard to a mixed species. They are said
to exhibit evidences of enterprise, industry, and a
regard to order and the laws, at the same time, that
we perceive the natural taciturnity of the savage,
happily counterpoised by the vivacity and suavity
of the French character, producing manners which
are sprightly without frivolity, and serious without
becoming morose.

Prairie Du Chien is the seat of justice for Craw-
ford county, which has recently been erected in
this part of the Michigan Territory,* and a court of

* The Northwestern .Territory does not at present exist in law.
On the admission of the state of Ilhnois into the Union, the re-
gions northwest of it, and east of the Mississippi river, extending
to its source, were incorporated with the government of Michi-
gan.

339

justice has already been established. There is al-
so a company of militia formed out of the Gallico-
savage population, who perform the usual services
with promptitude. There is a school, however,
wanting, for the rising generation, and a suitable
opening appears to be presented for a person who
could unite the characters of a moral and religious
instructor.

The fortification at this place consists of four lines
of log barracks facing a square parade ground, and
defended by bastions at the northwest and south-
east angles. The logs are squared and whitewash-
ed, and the works occupy a considerable extent of
ground, and have a very neat, and imposing appear-
ance. There is a large and fertile island in the
Mississippi, opposite the village, and a high calcare-
ous bluff on the opposite bank. — The Ousconsing
joins the Mississippi one league below. — There is a
Bayou, or marsh, at the point of confluence, which
extends into the prairie to within a mile of the vil-
lage, and is thought to render it unhealthy at partic-
ular seasons. The lead mines are situated on the
west bank of the river twenty -iive leagues below.

CHAPTER Xn.

VISIT,

TO THE LEAD MLXES OF DUBUQUE, OX THE UPPE^
MISSISSIPPI.

LXXV. DAY.—(Jugust Qtk)

As a delay of several days was anticipated at
Prairie du Chien, 1 solicited Governor Cass for per-
mission to employ the time in visiting the lead mines
of the upper Mississippi, which had acquired some
celebrity from their reputed extent, and the novel
circumstance of their being worked by the Indian
tribes. I left the prairie at half past eleven in the
morning, in a canoe manned by eight voyageurs, in-
cluding a guide. Three miles below, we passed the
mouth of the Ousconsing, which is a large and ma-
jestic stream, and communicates by a short portage
with the Fox river of Green Bay — a route which
we are to pursue on our return to Detroit. Nine
leagues below the Ousconsing, Turkey river enters
the Mississippi on the west bank, by a mouth of
sixty yards in width. This stream is one of the
principal hunting grounds of the Fox Indians, and
communicates, by its main northwestern fork, with
the Terre Bleu of St. Peters. There is a Fox vil-
lage (now deserted) of twelve lodges, a mile below,
on the east bank of the Mississippi. Here I en-
camped at seven o'clock in the evening, having de-

34 P

srcended the river thirty-one miles against a strong
head wind. I found the lodges to be large, and
built of logs, in the same substantial manner prac-
tised among the Narcotah bands. The cause of
their being now deserted, is the fear entertained of
an attack from the Sioux, in retaliation for the mas-
sacre lately perpetrated upon the banks of the St.
Peter's. The desertion appears to have taken place
after they had planted their corn, and from the or-
der in which the village is left, it may be concluded
that its re-occupation is kept in view. I found sev^-
eral small gardens and corn fields adjoining (he vil-
lage, in which squashes, beans, and pumpkins were
abundant, but the corn had been nearly all destroy-
ed, probably by wild animals. Walking back from
the river half a mile, to examine the geological char-
acter of an adjoining bluff, I was surprised to find
an extensive field of water and musk-melons, situa-
ted in the midst of a grove of small, scattering trees,
but without any inclosure. Some of the fruit had
been destroyed by animals, but a great abundance
still remained, although I found none perfect-
ly ripe. This must have been owing to the sha-
ded situation of the vines, and not to a defect of cli-
mate, as we found the water-melon in full maturity
at Prairie du Chien, which is thirty miles north.

LXXVI. Day.— {jiiigust 7th.)— -We had frequent
peals of thunder during the night, and the atmos-
phere threatened a rain-storm, as daylight approach-
ed. I embarked at half past three in the morning.
It commenced raining in twenty minutes afterwards,
and continued incessantly until my arrival at the
Fox village of th»e Kettle chief, where I landed at

342

ten o'clock, having descended the river forty-five
miles.

The Kettle chiefs village is situated on the west
bank of the river, and consists of nineteen lodges,
built in two rows— pretty compact — with a popula-
tion of two hundred and fifty soula. In the Missis-
sippi river, directly opposite this village, there is a
large island, where a number of traders are con-
stantly stationed for the purpose of supplying the In-
dians with merchandize, and purchasing their lead.
Concluding I should there find an interpreter of the
Fox language, I first landed upon the island, and
met with the most friendly reception from the tra-
ders, who readily communicated to me the informa-
tion I sought, respecting the location, number, and
value of the mines, and the method of working
them, together with specimens of the ores, and ac-
companying minerals. The rain ceased an hour af-
ter my arrival, when I proceeded across an arm of
the Mississippi to the Kettle chief's village, to soli-
cit his permission, and procure Indian guides, to
explore the mines which are situated in the interior.
I was accompanied on this visit by Mr. Gates, as in-
terpreter, and by Dr. S. Muir, a trader of the isl-
and, who politely offered to go out with me. On
entering the Kettle chiefs lodge, I found him suf-
fering: under a severe attack of bilious fever. As I
approached him, he sat up on his pallet, being una-
ble to stand, and bid me welcome, but Roon became
exhausted by the labour of conversation, and was
obliged to resume his former position. He appear-
ed to be a man of eighty years of age — with a ven-
erable look, but reduced to the last stage of pbys-
io^^ debility, yet retaining, unimpaired, his faculties

343

of sight and hearing, and his mental powers ; and
he spoke to me of his death with calm resignation,
and as a thing to be desired. On stating the object
of my visit, some objections were made by the
chiefs who surrounded him, and they required far-
ther time to consider the proposition. In the mean
time, 1 learned from another source, that since the
death of Dubuque, to whom they had formerly
granted the privilege of working the mines, they
had manifested a great jealousy of the whites — were
afraid they would encroach upon their rights — de-
nied all former grants, and did not make it a prac-
tice even to allow strangers to view their diggings,
&c. Apprehending some difficulties of this kind, I
had provided myself with some Indian presents, and
concluding this to be the true cause of the reluc-
tance manifested, directed one of my voyageurs to
bring in a present of whiskey and tobacco ; and in a
few moments afterwards received their assent, and
two guides were furnished to conduct us out. One
of these, was a soldier-chief of the Fox tribe, called
>Sca-5aw, or theyelling wolf; the other, Wa-ba-say-ah^
or the white Fox skin.

The district of country generally called Dubuque's
Lead mines, embraces an area of about twenty-one
square leagues, commencing at the mouth of the
little Maquanquitons river, sixty miles below Prai-
rie du Chien, and extending along the west bank of
the Mississippi, seven leagues in front by three in
depth. The principal mines are situated upon a
tract of one square league, commencing immediate-
ly at the I^'ox village of the Kettle chief, and ex-
tending westward. This is the seat of the mining
operations formerly carried on by Dubuque, and oi'

344

what are called the Indian din'ij-uiirs. The ore found
is the common sulphuret of lead, with a broad folia-
ted structure, and high metallic lustre. It occurg
massive, and disseminated, in a reddish loam,
resting upon lime stone rock, and sometimes is seen
in small veins pervading the rock, but it has been
chiefly explored in alluvial soil. It generally occurs
in beds or veins, which have no great width, and
run in a certain direction three or four hundred
yards, — then cease, or are traced into some cre-
vice in the rock, having the appearance of a regular
vein. At this stage of the pursuit most of the dig-
gings have been abandoned, and frequently, with
small veins of ore in view. No matrix is found with
the ore which is dug out of the alluvial soil, but it is
inveloped by the naked earth, and the lumps of ore
are incrusted by an ochreous earth. Occasionally,
however, some pieces of calcareous spar, are thrown
out of the earth in digging after lead, and I picked up
a solitary specimen of the transparent sulphat of
barytes, but these substances appear to be very
rare. There is none of the radiated quartz, ot'
white opake heavy spar, which is so common at
the Missouri mines.' The calcareous rock upon
which this alluvial formation, containing lead ore,
rests, appears to be referable to the transition class.
1 have not ascertained its particular extent about
the mines. The same formation is seen, overlayed
by a distinct stratum of compact lime stone, con-
taining numerous petrifactions, at several places, be--
tween the mines and Prairie du Chien. The lead
ore at these mines is now exclusively dug by the
Fox Indians, and, as is usual among savage tribes,
the chief labour devolves upon the women. The

345

old and superannuated men also partake in these la-
bours, but the warriors and young men, hold them-
selves above it. They employ the hoe, shovel,
pick-axe, and crow-bar, in taking up the ore. These
things are supplied by the traders, but no shafts
are sunk, not even of the simplest kind, and the
windlass and bucket are unknown among them. —
They run drifts into the hills so far as they can con--
veniently go, without the use of gun-powder, and
if a trench caves in, it is abandoned. They always
dig down at such an angle that they can walk in
and out of the pits, and 1 descended into one of
these, which had probably been carried down forty
feet. AH this, is the work of the Indian women and
old men, who discover a degree of perseverance and
industry, which is deserving of the highest commend-
ation. When a quantity of ore has been got out, it
is carried in baskets, by the women, to the banks of
the Mississippi, and there ferried over in canoes
to the island, where it is purchased by the traders
at the rate of two dollars for a hundred and twenty
pounds, payable in goods at Indian prices. At the
profits at which these goods are usually sold, it may
be presumed to cost the traders from seventy-five
cents to a dollar, cash value, per hundred weight.
The traders smelt the ore upon the island, in furna-
ces of the same construction used at the lead mines
of Missouri, and observe, that it yields the same
per centum of metallic lead. Formerly, the Indians
were in the habit of smelting their ore themselves,
jjpon log-heaps, by which a great portion was con-
verted into what are called lead-ashes, and thus lost.
Now, the traders induce them to search about the
sites of those ancient fires, and carefully collect the

44

34(i

lead ashea, for which they receive a dollar per
bushel, delivered at the island, payable in merchan-
dize.

There are three lead mines, in addition to those
above mentioned, situated upon the upper Missis-
sippi, which are worked by the Indian tribes, name-
ly, the Sissinaway mines, — mine au Fevre, — and the
mines of the little Maquanquitons.

f. The Sissinaway Mines. — ^These are situated fii^
teen miles below the Kettle chiefs village, on the
east shore of the Mississippi, and at the junction of
the Sissinaway river.

II. Mine au Fevre. — Situated on the river au Fevre*
which enters the Mississippi on the east shore, twen-
ty-one miles below Dubuque's mines. The lead ore
is found ten miles above its mouth. At this placcy
there is a considerable quantity of sulphat of ba-
rytes, and the ore is often found crystaiized in re-
gular cubes, octahedrons, &:c.

III. Mine of Maquanquitons. — This is a short dis-
tance up the little Maquanquiton's river, which
flows into the Mississippi fifteen miles above Du-
buque's mines. It has been the least explored of
any.

The Fox, or Outagami Indians, upon whose ter-
ritories these mines are situated, are settled upon
both banks of the Mississippi, between Prairie du
Chien and Rock rivers, and claim the lands thus oc-
cupied, and extending a certain distance east and
west of the river. They are bounded by the lands
of the Sioux of the Missouri, on the west, — by the
Winnebagoes, and Pottawattamies, on the east, and
by the Sacs and Kickapoos on the south. Their
principal village is that called the Kettle Chiefs, at

3d7

Dubuque's mines, seventy-five miles below Prairie
du Chien. They have another village at the Rock
river rapids, a hundred and sixty miles below. It
consists of fourteen lodges, and a hundred and fif-
ty souls. On the east bank of the Mississippi, near
the foot of Rock island, there is a large village of
Foxes and Sacs, living promiscuously together. — It
consists of sixty lodges, being one of the largest
and most populous Indian villages on the continent.
They have also a small village at the mouth of Tur-
key river, thirty miles below Prairie du Chien, but
it is at present temporarily deserted. These villa-
ges comprise the strength of the Fox tribe, which
is estimated at four hundred souls. They are near-
ly related to the Sacs, from whom they have se-
ceded within the last century. They also claim re-
lationship with the Chippeways. Of their own ori-
gin they know very little. As far as their traditions
extend, they came from the neighbourhood of Kings-
ton, in Upper Canada. From thence they were
driven into the vicinity of Michilimackinac, and af-
terwards to Green Bay, and along the river which
falls into its head, and bears their name. At Fox
river, they suffered a signal defeat, from a body of
combined French and Indians, at a place since call-
ed La Butte de mort, or the Hill of the dead ; and
were driven to the banks of the Ousconsing, from
which they subsequently emigrated, to the country
they now occupy. They speak the Algon-
quin language, with a great many peculiarities, and
corruptions, and are supposed to be one of the nu-
merous bands into which that once powerful nation,
has been scattered. The name of Reynards or Foxes,
appears first to have been bestowed on them, do-

348

ring tlielr sojournment at Green Bay. The history
of their migrations and wars, shews them to have
been a restless and spirited people — erratic in their
dispositions, having a great contempt for agriculture,
and a predominant passion for war. By this means,
they have been continually changing — suffering —
and diminishing, until tliey are reduced to a hundred
fighting men. Still, they retain their ancient char»
acter, and are constantly embroiled in wars and
disputes wilh their neighbours, the results of which
shew, that they have more courage in battle, than
wisdom in council. In their dealings with the tra-
ders, they are cunning and deceitful. In their en-
gagements, they lack punctuality, and in their
friendships, constancy ; yet they profess a fawning
friendship for all. Hence the French traders early
applied to them, in derision, the term of dogs^ and
foxes. They are at present waring with the Sioux,
and lately surprised and killed nine of that nation,
on a branch of the St. Peter's, called Terre Bleu,
where they both resort to procure the blue clay,
with which they are fond of painting themselves. —
There is now a war party of twenty men, in the
same direction, under a half-breed, by the name of
Morgan. This party went out by Turkey river,
and are supposed to have marched against the Sissi-
tongs of the St. Peter's. They are also on bad
terms with the Pawnees, and Osages, south of the
Missouri, and with the Winnebagoes, in their own
neighbourhood, from whom they occasionally steal
horses, and are plundered in return.

In 1780, a discovery of lead ore was made upon
their lands by the wife of Peosta, a warrior of the
Kettle chief's village, and extensive mines have

349

since been dlscoveretl. These, were granted by
the Indians to Julien Dubuque at a council held at
Prairie du Chien in 1788, by virtue of which he
settled upon the lands — erected buildings and furna-
ces, and continued to work the mines, until the
year 1810. In the meantime (1796) he received
a confirmation of the Indian grant from the Baron
de Carondelet, Governor of Louisiana, in which
they were designated the " Mines of Spain."

" Julien Dubuque," by a stone monument which
stands on a hill near the mines, " died on the 24th
of March, 1810, aged 4/3 years, 6 months." After
his death, the Indians burnt down his house and fen-
ces, and erased every vestige of civilized life, and
they have since revoked, or at least, denied the
grant, and appear to set a very high value upon
the mines. Dubuque dying in debt, his claims
were assigned to his creditors, by whom they were
presented for confirmation, to the board of Com-
missioners appointed by the United States Govern-
ment in 1806, to determine upon the land titles and
grants of the newly acquired 1 erritory of Louisia-
na. By this Board, the claim of the assignees was
determined to be valid, and a memorial of their
proceedings transmitted to the Treasury Depart-
ment, at Washington, for the final decision of Con-
gress. In this stage of the investigation, Mr. Gal-
latin, transmits, by way of report, to the President of
the United States, the following facts, and remarks,
which may be considered as embracing the views of
the government, in relation to one of the most im-
portant of the western land claims, which still re-
main undecided.

,150

FACTS.

*' In 1788, Dubuque purchased from the Indians,
an extent of seven leagues front on the Mississippi,
by three leagues in depth, containing upwards of
one hundred and forty thousand acres, and the most
valuable lead mines of Louisiana, situated about five
hundred miles above St. Louis. The sale is very
vague ; they permit Dubuque to work the mine as
long as he pleases, and till he thinks proper to aban-
don it, without confining him to any time ; and they
also sell him the hill and contents of the land (or
mine) found by Peosta's wife, and if he finds no-
thing in it, he may work where he pleases, and
work quietly. In 1796, he presents his requete, to
Governor Carondelet at New-Orleans, stating that
he has made a settlement (habitation) or settled a
plantation amongst the Indians, that he has purchas-
ed from them a portion of land with all the mines
therein contained ; that the habitation is but a pointy
and inasmuch as the mines he works, are three
leagues from each other, he requests the governor
to grant him the peaceable possession of the mines and
lands, contained within certain natural boundaries,
and which he states as being above six leagues in
front, and three in depth.

" The governor refers the application for informa-
lion to A. Todd, who had the monopoly of the In-
dian trade on the Mississippi.

" A. Todd reports, that no objection occurs to him,
if the governor thinks it convenient to grant the a|>
plication, provided that Dubuque shall not trade
with the Indians without his permission.

" Governor Carondelet, writes at the foot of the re-
tjuest, " granted as is asked (concedido como se so-

■'^

351

licita) under the restrictions mentioned by Todd,
iniiis information, 10th November, 1796."

" Governor Harrison in his treaty with the Sacs and
Foxes, of the 3d November, 1801, introduces an ar-
ticle, by which it is agreed, that nothing in the trea-
ty shall affect the claim of individuals who might
have obtained grants of land from the Spanish go-
vernment, known to, and recognised by the Indians,
though such grants be not included within the boun-
dary line fixed by the treaty with said Indians. And
the same governor certifies that the article was in-
serted with the intention of particularly embracing
Dubuque's claim. The claim having been laid be-*
fore the commissioners, they made on the 20th Sep-
tember, 1806, the following decision :

" A majority of the board, John B. C. Lucas dis-
senting, ascertain this claim to be a complete Spa-
nish grant, made and completed prior to the 1st
day of October, 1800.

" A copy of that decision, tested by the assistant
clerk of the board, has been delivered to Aug : Chou-
teau, who had purchased from Dubuque, one undi-
vided half of the claim."

REMARKS.

" I. Governor Harrison's treaty adds no sanction
to the claim : It is only a saving clause in favour of
a claim, without deciding on its merits, a question
which indeed he had no authority to decide.

'• II. The form of the concession, if it shall be so
called, is not that of a patent, or final grant, and
that it was not considered as such the commission-
ers knew, as they had previously received a list pro-
cured from the records at New-Orleans, and trans-

it

352

mitted by the Secretary of the Treasury, of all the
patents issued under the French and Spanish go-
vernments, in which this was not included, and
which also showed the distinction between conces-
sion, and patent, or complete title.

" 111. The form of the concession is not even that
used, when it was intended ultimately to grant the
land ; for it is then uniformly accompanied with an
order to the proper officer to survey the land, on
which survey being returned, the patent issues.

" IV. The Governor only grants as is asked ; and
nothing is asked but the peaceable possession of a
tract of land on which the Indians had given a per-
sonal permission to work the lead mines as long as
he should remain.

" Upon the whole, this appears to have been a
mere permission to work certain distant mines, with-
out any alienation of, or intention to alienate, the
domain. — Such permission might be revoked at will;
how it came to be considered as transferring the
fee simple, or even as an incipient and incomplete
title to the fee simple, cannot be understood.

" It seems, also, that the commissioners, ought
not to have given to any person certificates of their
proceeding, tending to give a colour of title to
claimants. They were by law directed to transmit
to the treasury a transcript of their decisions, in
order that the same might be laid before Congress
for approbation or rejection."*

The mines of Dubuque were among the objects
to which the attention of Lieutenant Pike was di-

* Collection of Land Laws of the United States, printed at
Washington, 1817.

3r>3

reeled, in his voyage up the Mississippi in 1805, but
a number of circumstances prevented him from vis-
iting the mines, or from procuring much information
upon the subject. It did not suit the views of Mr.
Dubuque, to encourage his visit — the mines were
represented at a great distance — he pretended to
have no horses at command, &c. Under these cir-
cumstances, Lieutenant Pike contented himself, by
proposing to Mr. Dubuque, a number of queries in
writing, but the answers given, do not appear to be
entitled to full confidence, and are somewhat equi-
vocal.*

* Queries proposed by Lieutenant Pike, to Mr. Dubuque — with
his Answers.

1. What is the date of your grant of the mines from the savages ?
Jns. The copy of the grant is in Mr- Soulard's Office, at Si.

Louis.

2. What is the date of the confirmation by the Spaniards ?
j4ns. The same as to query first.

3. What is the extent of your grant ?
Ans. The same as above.

4. What is the extent of the mines ?

Jns. Twenty-eight or twenty-seven leagues long, and from one
to three broad.

5. Lead made per annum ?
Ans. From 20 to 40,000 pounds.

6. Quantity of lead per cwt. of mineral }
Ans. Seventy-five percent.

7. Quantity of lead in pigs ?

Ans. All he makes, as he neither manufactures bar, sheel-lead>
or shot.

8. If mixed with any other mineral ?

Ans. We have seen some copper, but having no person suffi-
ciently acquainted with chemistry, to make the experiment, pro-
perly, I cannot say as to the proportion it bears to the lead.

J. DUBUQUE,

Lead Mines, 1st Sept. 1805.

45

Z. M. PIKE,

3M

Having examiiieLl the mines willi as much mi-
nuteness as the time allotted to me, would permit,
I returned to the Mississippi in the evening, and
proceeding two leao;ues up the river, encamped up-
on an island, at eight o'clock.

LXXVII. Day.— {Jugust dth.)~\ embarked at
four o'clock in the morning— passed the mouth of
Turkey river at two o'clock — and encamped upon a
small island, one league below the mouth of the
Ousconsing, at eight in the evening, having been
sixteen hours in my canoe, and ascended the river
sixty-three miles.

LXXVIIl. DA\.—{Jugust 9lh.)—l passed the
mouth of the Ousconsing before day-break, and
reached Prairie du Chien, at six in the morning,
after an absence of three days, during which, 1 have
travelled a hundred and fifty miles, forty-five of
which were made under an exposure to a rainstorm.

The valley of the Mississippi between Prairie du
Chien, and the lead mines of Dubuque, is about two
miles in width, and consists of a rich deposit of al-
luvial soil, a part of which, is prairie ; and the re-
mainder, covered with a heavy forest of elm, sugar
tree, black walnut, ash, and cotton wood. Jt is
bounded on each side by corresponding bluffs of
calcareous rocks, which attain a general elevation
of four hundred feet, and throw an interest over the
scene — which prairies and forests — woody islands,
and winding channels, beautiful and picturesque, as
they certainly are, must fail to create. It is to these
bluffs, — now shooting into spiral columns, naked and
Crumbling — now sloping into grassy hills, or inter-

355

sected by lateral vallles — here, grouped in the
fantastic forms of some antiquated battlcsnent,
mocking the ingenuity of man — there, stretching as
far as the eye can reach in a perpendicular wall —
but ever varying — pleasing — and new — it is to
these bluffs, that the valley of the upper Mississip-
pi, owes all its grandeur and magnificence, its broad
and glittering channel — its woodless prairies and as-
piring forests-its flowering shrubs and animated pro-
ductions— only serve to fill up, and give effect to
the imposing outline, so boldly sketched by the pen-
cil of nature, in these sublime and pleasing bluffs. —
Yet, there is much in the detail of the scene, to ad-
mire— in the beauty of its tints — the fancy of the
grouping — and the mellowness of the shades.

Among the humbler growth, which adorns the
borders of the forest, the cornus florida, the sarsa-
parilla, and the sumach, are frequently to be seen,
still beautiful in the unbleached verdure of spring,
and bathing their impending branches in the rushing
stream, while the splendid foliage of the autumnal
forest, is already visible in therichhues ofthe fading
maple, the heart-leaved aspen, and ,the populus
angulata.

The tall grass of the prairies, although it has al-
so assumed the yellow hue of autumn, and rustles in
the northern breeze, is yet occasionally chequered
with green copses of shrubby oaks, and beautified
with the peculiar tribe ot heath-flowers, which lin-
ger unblown, through the sultry heats of July, to
scatter their fragrance over the fading fields of Au-
gust. The channel of the river, is often expanded
to an amazing width, and spotted with innumerable
islands, some of which, are nothing more than a

356

bank of yellow yaiid just looming above the water,
and crowned with a brushy growth, of young wil-
lows and slender coUon woods : others, present
copses of the tallest trees, which are not unfre-
quently precipitated bodily into the stream, by the
undermining currents of the river, or hang from the
new fallen alluvial banks, with their branches dip-
ping into the stream. Perched upon these, we in-
variably find the heron, and king-fisher, who, with
motionless anxiety, watch for their finny prey. The
eagle, and the hawk, choose a more elevated seat to
watch for their food, while the buzzard, with an ea-
sy wing, is continually sailing through the air, ea-
gerly scanning the lower plains, for its favourite car-
rion. The white pelican, is also, very frequent, along
this part of the river, but is always found upon the
point of some naked sand bar, which I conclude to
be the most favourable spot for taking its food. The
duck, and the goose, appear to be the only species
of water-fowl, which are always in motion, and it is
rare to see them seated upon the shore, but,
this may be less the result of their superior activity,
and natural sprightliness, than the strong necessity
of continually searching for those aquatic plants,
which constitute their favourite food. The pigeon,
the snipe, the wild turkey, the raven, and the jay,
are also common along this part of the Mississippi,
and contribute, by their appearance, to enliven and
diversify the scene. Nor, is it uncommon, during the
heats of noon, to behold the savage, reclining be-
neath the grateful shade of the oak, upon some
breezy knoll of the contiguous bluff—

357

" Nor feels for aught, nor has a wish that goes
Beyond his present surcour and repose. —
To-day's support emplovs lo-day his thouoht,
To-morrow's meal must be to-morrow sought.''

Satisfied with present competence, he thinks not
of the long, and dreary winter, which shall soon de-
form his native sky — of the pinching hunger, which
shall await his improvidence — of the precariousness,
of the chace — of the rapid diminution of his tribes,
before the resistless march of European population-
of the evils, they have introduced into it; and of its
slow, certain, and total annihilation : but, dreaming
of the beauty of his native mountains, envies not
eastern monarchs their possessions, while all his
bliss — all his hopes — and all his ambition, are cen-
tered in the unrestrained enjoyment of liberty, and
the land of his forefathers.

" Dear is that shed to which their souls conform,
" And dear the hill that lifts them to the storm ;
" And as a babe, when scaring sounds molest,
" Clings close, and closer, to the mother's breast —
" So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind's roar,
<' But binds them to their native mountains more.".

Goldsmith.

CHAPTER XIII.

J O U R JV E Y\-

FROM PIUIRIE DU CHIEJ^T, BY THE OUSC0J\rSlJ\i'G AJVB
FOX RIVERS, TO GREEJV BAY.

LXXVIII. Dky,— {August 9th.)

JfURlNG our stay at Prairie du Chien, we observ-
ed a remarkable instance of natural deformity, in
the person of an Indian, who had just come in from
the interior. This singular being, was provided by
nature, witli double the usual number of joints in
each arm, and leg, by which means, he was render-
ed, in some measure, helpless, and unable either to
stand, or walk. By an effort of savage ingenuity,
however, this redundancy of joints, was made the
means of procuring locomotion, by coiling his legs
in a large wooden bowl, in which he rolled himself
along, over a smooth surface, with considerable fa-
cility. The powers of his mind, were not, however,
in the least affected, by this corporeal degradation,
but appeared, on the contrary, vigorous, and supe-
rior to the generality of his tribe. He spoke seve-
ral Indian tongues, and conversed fluently in the
French language, as it is generally spoken by the
Canadian voyageurs, and northwest traders ; and his

359

whole countenance bespoke intelligence, and mental
activity.

We left Prairie du Chien at half past ten in the
morning, and entering the Ousconsing three miles
below, ascended that river eighteen miles. It is a
wide, and shallow stream, running over a bed of

sand — with transparent waters and chequered

with numerous small islands, and sand bars. It has
an alluvial valley, of a mile in width, bounded on
each side by calcareous hills — which frequently, pre-
sent naked precipices towards the river. — The pre-
dominating trees, are oak, elm, and maple.

LXXIX. Day. — (j^ugust \Oth.) — Quitting our en-
campment at five o'clock, A. M. we ascended the
river thirty-six miles. During this distance, it is
joined by a small tributary from the right bank, call-
ed Blue river. It is a stream of small size — with
clear water — and originates in highlands, near the
banks of Rock river. No change is observed in
the appearance of the Ousconsing — there is no per-
ceptible diminution, either in the width of the river,
or its valley. The bluffs, continue to bound the ri-
ver on both sides. The weather was fair and warm
during the fore part of the day, but suddenly cloud-
ed up, in the afternoon, when we had a shower of
rain, attended with thunder and lightning.

LXXX. Day. — {^August 1 1 th.) — On ascending the
river sixteen miles, we passed the mouth of Pine
river, a stream of thirty yards wide, entering on
the left, at the junction of which, there is a village of
Winnebagoes, of four lodges. Here we stopped a
iQw moments. The Indians appeared friendly, and

360

presented us some dried venison : — we engaged two.
of them to pilot us up the river, to the portage, and
make some mineral discoveries. The navigation of
the river above, is considerably impeded by sand
bars, and small islands, and some time is lost, in
searching for the proper channel. The water is
shallow — clear — and very warm. — The current is
strong, although without any falls or rapids. Nu-
merous muscle, and other shells, are strewed along
the sandy shores, some of which are very large, oth-
ers, exceedingly small, with transparent shells, and
colours beautifully variegated. — The plover, wild
goose, king-fisher, and small yellow bird, are seen
along this part of the river. The river blufls con-
tinue, sometimes receding a mile or two from the ri-
ver, and giving place to bottom lands, and patches
of prairie, then shutting in close upon the water's
edge. In the course of the day, we overtook a
barge and Indian canoe, which had been despatch-
ed in advance, from the Prairie, on the eighth, un-
der the charge of Mr. Chase. We encamped at
twilight, at the head of the Spruce Channel, having
ascended the river thirty-four miles.

LXXXI.Day. — (August 12th.) — Proceeded up the
river at twenty minutes before five — weather fair. —
Ascended forty miles, and encamped on a sand bar,
on the left shore. Highlands continue. — Trees,
oak, elm, and maple. Alluvial bottom lands : and
prairies, occasionally, on either shore. Rock stra-
ta, compact lime stone, reposing upon white sand-
stone. A shower of rain, at six in the evening.

361

LXXXll. D.\\.--^(Jagiist 13//?.)— Ascended thirty-
eight miles.

LXXXllI. Day.— {August liih.y-A rain storm af-
ter twelve o'clock at night — cleared oflT at seven in
the morning, when we embarked, and reached the
portage between the Oiisconsing and Fox rivers, at
one o'clock P. M. — distance sixteen miles. Cross-
ed over the portage, and encamped on the head of
Fox river.

The entire distance from the Prairie dii Chien to the
portage of the Ousconsing, is one hundred and
eighty-two miles, in which distance the navigation
is not impeded with a fall or rapid, but the water
runs with great velocity, and may be estimated to
have a mean descent of two feet per mile. This is
equal to the Mississippi, below the junction of the
Missouri. We were five days engaged in the as-
cent, without, however, devoting much time to the
examination of the contiguous country. The width
of the river is eight hundred yards at its mouth, and
decreases to about four hundred at the portage. — A
chain of limestone hills extends from the Mississip-
pi, on each shore, to within twenty miles of the
portage, where it ceases on the south shore, but con-
tinues on the north, receding, however, a consider-
able distance from the river. This tract is called
the Highlands of the Ousconsing. In passing
through it, the river presents a number of interest-
ing and picturesque views, the most striking of which
is that of the Sugar Loaf mountain, and La Petit
Gris. The geological character of this tract of
rountry, presents little variety, A dark grey com*

46

362

pact limestone, forms the surface rock, and is bed-
ded on white sandstone. The former, is, however,
so far as observed, destitute of organic remains,
and perhaps, the latter, might be considered as a
variety of grauwacke. There are some scattered
lumps of iron ore upon the hills, and a lead mine is
reported to exist upon the south shore, about eighty
miles east of the Mississippi. The Indians also re-
port that they have frequently found copper and
silver upon this river, but the guides who accom-
panied us, with a promise to discover the localities
of these minerals, either amused us with idle tales,
or avoided conducting us to the places, where these
metals may, in reality, exist ; by stating a great many
difficulties and excuses. A Winnebago Indian, who
had promised to bring in a specimen of silver ore,
presented, with great ceremony, to Governor Cass,
some small detached folia of mica, and the
same substance, in its natural association in granitic
rock. This shows, what little reliance can be pla-
ced upon Indian information, with respect to mine-
ralogy, even when their veracity is not called in
question. It would be well, however, if, in regard
to the mineral kingdom, only, this people had not
yet adopted the maxim, that " all is not gold that
glitters."

The Ousconsing is ascended in canoes ninety
miles above the portage, and is connected by
short portages^ with the Ontonagon, and Mon-
treal rivers of Lake Superior. The largest wild
animals now found along its banks, are the deer,
the bear, and the fox. The elk, and buffalo, have
been driven off many years ago. Neither is it a fa-
vourite resort of water fowl, which is probably ow-
ing to the fact, that it does not afford the wild ricej at

363

least, in any considerable quantity. Geese and
ducks occasionally alight in it, on their migratory
journies, but do not tarry long. We observed the
snipe, plover, grouse, king-fisher, wild turkey, and
some smaller birds. Two kinds of rattlesnake are
also found along its banks. The first, which in-
habits the hills, is the crotalus horridus, and at-
tains a large size. 1 killed one, in coming up the
river, measuring four feet in length, and furnished
with nine rattles. The Indians, on opening it, took
out eleven young. The other variety is small, sel-
dom exceeding eighteen inches in length, and is
confined to the lowlands and prairies. This is call-
ed the prairie rattlesnake, and is common about the
portage.

This river was formerly inhabited by the Sacs and
Foxes, who raised large quantities of corn and
beans upon its fertile shores, but they were driven
off by the Chippeways, instigated by the French. —
It is now possessed by the Winnebagoes, a savage,
and blood-thirsty tribe, who came, many years ago,
from the south, and are related to some of the Mex-
ican tribes. Their largest village, upon this stream,
is three or four miles above the portage, and con-
sists of forty lodges.

The length of the portage, from the Ousconsing,
to the Fox river, is a mile and a half, across a
level prairie. There is a good waggon road, and a
Frenchman lives on the spot, who keeps a number
of horses and cattle, for the transportation of bag-
gage, for which ivventy-five cents per hundred weight,
is demanded. Such is the little difference in the level
of the two streams, that during high water, canoes
frequently pass, loaded, across the lowest parts of

364

the prairie, from one river to the other. The por-
tage iy very muddy in the spring and fall, being over
a rich alluvial soil, but we found it dry, and pleas-
ant.

LXXXIV. T>AY.--(Jugust l/)//!.)— We embarked
at the head of Fox river, at half past three in the
afternoon, and descended fifteen miles to the Forks.
The river in this distance, is about twenty yards
■wide, but often expands into little lakes, or ponds,
and is extremely devious in its course. It is filled
v/ith wild rice, which so chokes up the channel,
that it is difficult to find a passage through it. The
shores slope up gently from the water's edge, and
are covered with scattering oaks, and prairie grass,
but they do not attain much elevation, and disclose
no rock strata.

LXXXV DA\.-~-{Jugusi ]6//i.)— Thirty miles be-
low its forks, the Fox river expands into a lake,
called Lac du Boeuf, which is nine miles in length,
by one and a half in w idth, and abounds in wild
rice. Twelve miles lower, the river expands into
another lake, called Puckaway, which is twelve
miles long, by two in wicth. This is also filled with
"wild rice, and rushes, and with abundance of water
fowl in the season. There is a village of Puants
or Winnebagoes, of seven or eight lodges, on the
west shore. We encamped at the foot of this lake,
having descended the river sixty-three miles. The
course of the river is less serpentine than about its
source, but the channel continues to be filled with
wild rice, reeds, and bulrushes. The adjoining
country lies in gentle slopes, and is finely diversified

365

with woods and prairies. It appears to be well
adapted to the raising of stock, and any quantity of
grass might be cut on the prairies. The soil is of
the richest kind, and is capable of supporting a
dense agricultural population.

LXXXVf. Day.-^( Jugust 1-7 th.)— Fox river, which
has scarcely a perceptible current above Lake
Puckaway, has a visible one, below it, where its
mean velocity may be reckoned atone mile per hour.
A few miles below our encampment, we passed three
Winnebago lodges on the right bank, and a short
distance lower down, live more on the left. The
forest here becomes heavier, and approaches nearer
the margin of the river, and among its trees, we here
first noticed the poplar and the birch. The river
De Loup joins the Fox river, twenty-eight miles be-
low Puckaway lake, and there is a grass-covered
bilinear the point of junction, called La Butte de
Mort^ or the hillock of the dead, where the Fox na-
tion were nearly exterminated many years ago, by
the French and Chippeways. It is now the site of a
small Winnebago village, and affords a picturesque
view from the river. We encamped seventeen
leagues below this spot, on the left shore, having
descended the river seventy miles.

LXXXVII. Day.— {August 18/A.)— The night was
remarkably cold, with a dense fog in the morning,
and we now first enjoyed an exemption from the at-
tacks of the musquitoes. We embarked at half past
five, A. M. — wild rice continues along the shores —
the stream increases in width — no rocks in situ —
some pebbleB and detached blocks of hornblende

366

granite, and limestone along the shore — also, an
abundance of muscle and cockle shells. — Trees,
oak, maple, and hickory. — Soil, a rich alluvion.

On descending fifteen miles, we passed the mouth
of the Menomonie or \\ olf river, which is nearly of
equal size with the Fox, and is noted for its abundant
production of wild rice, and the myriads of wild
fowl, that resort to it, at certain seasons. Five miles
below the junction of these streams, we entered
Winnebago lake, at ten o'clock in the morning. —
This is a handsome sheet of clear water, twenty-
four miles long, by ten in width. It receives a con-
siderable tributary on the south, called Crocodile or
Rice river, which is connected by means of a short
portage, with the Rock river of the Mississippi. —
Near the upper end of this lake, there is a village of
Winnebagoes, of ten lodges, and another, of a like
number of lodges, at its outlet. There is also a vil-
lage of Menomonies, of sixty souls, on the south-
ern shore, about half way between the lower Puant
village, and the mouth of Crocodile river. The
Fox river, where it issues from Winnebago lake, has
a rapid, extending a mile and a half, over which the
canoes pass, with half loads. We here entrusted
our canoes to Indian pilots, and proceeded on foot,
to the termination of the rapids. Nine miles below,
is the fall of the grand Konomee, where the river
has a perpendicular descent of five feet. Here is a
portage of one mile. The canoes are lifted over
the falls, and conducted to the place of embarka-
tion below^ The fall is over a ledge of limestone
rock, apparently of the transition class. Some cal-
careous spar is found imbedded. The entire de-
scent of the river at this portage, is probably fifteen
feet. We encamped at the foot of the grand Ko-

367

iiomee, some time after dark, having progressed al-
together sixty miles.

LXXXVIII. DAY.-^(.^ugust I9th.)—[t is twelve
miles from the Grand Konomee to the falls of Ka-
kalin, during which distance, the bed of the river
is full of fragments of rock, with shallow water ; and
may be considered at this season, as one contin-
ued rapid. The river is skirted by alluvial ridges,
covered with white and black oak, and prairie
grass. This deposition rests upon calcareous rock,
which appears in horizontal strata at the water's
edge, and in the bed of the river. ft contains no
imbedded remains, but, on breaking it, discloses mi-
nute cavities, filled with calcareous spar in a variety
of crystalline forms, and often connected with iron
pyrites. Disseminated through the rock, are also
found, small particles of sulphuretof zinc, orblack
blende. These appearances are particularly appa-
rent, in the flat rocks at the Kakalin, and for two or
three miles above, on the north shore. In descend-
ing this part of the river, we cannot avoid remark-
ing, the immense quantity of muscle shells scatter-
ed along the shore, and sometimes piled up in the
bed of the stream. On enquiring of the Indians the
cause of this singular appearance, they observed,
that the muscle is the common food of the muskrat,
which fishes for these Crustacea, in the bed of the
stream, and carrying them to the mouth of its hab-
itation, upon the banks of the river, there opens
them upon one spot. We reached the Kakalin at
noon, and found it the site of a Winnebago village
of eleven or twelve lodges, and two hundred souls.
There is a portage of one mile, across a level prai-

368

rie, and the river has an aggregate descent of twen-
ty feet. We proceeded eight miles below, and en-
camped on the north shore, having descended but
twenty miles during the day. This is owing to the
low stage of the water, and the difficulties of the
rapids, which have been such, that we were compel-
led to leave our barge upon the rocks, between the
rapids of the Konomee and the Kakalin.

LXXXIX. Day.— {Jugust, 20th.)— A. heavy fog
in the morning, prevented us from quitting our en-
campment until seven o'clock. — Six miles below, we
passed the rapids of the little Kakalin, which, how-
ever, oppose no serious obstacle to the navigation
of the river, on the descent. Here, we found a small
party of United States soldiers, who were engaged
in preparing the foundation for a saw mill, which is
to be erected at that spot for the accommodation of
the garrison, and settlement at Green Bay. There
is another small rapid, seven miles below, called
Rock rapid, from which it is five more to the garri-
son, where we arrived at one o'clock P. M. The
settlement of Green Bay commences at the little
Kakalin, twelve miles above the fort ; and is very
compact, from the Rock rapid. Here, we are first
presented with a view^ of the fort ; and nothing can
exceed the beauty of the intermediate country —
chequered as it is, with farm houses, fences, culti-
vated fields, the broad expanse of the river — the
bannered masts of the vessels in the distant bay,
and the warlike array of military barracks, camps,
and parades. This scene burst suddenly into view,
and no combination of objects in the physiognomy
of a country, could be more happily arranged, af-

3.m

ter so long a sojournment in the wilderness, to recall
at once to the imagination, the most pleasing recol-
lections of civilized life; and indeed, the circum-
stances of our return, would have produced a high
degree of exhilaration ; without the additional ex-
citements of military music, which now saluted our
ears, and the peals of artillery which bid us wel-
come to the fort.

The settlement of Green Bav is one of ancient
standing, having been first begun by the French
about the year 1670. It now consists of sixty dwel-
ling houses, and five hundred inhabitants, exclusive
of the garrison. There are seventy of the inhabit-
ants enrolled as militia men, and it is said fifty more
will be added during the ensuing year, who are
now subject to military duty. The inhabitants are,
with few exceptions, French, who have intermar-
ried with Indian women, and are said generally, to
be indolent, gay, intemperate, and illiterate; but
I cannot speak from personal observation. They
are represented to have been subservient to the in-
terests of the British, during the late war. This set°
tlement is now the seat of justice for Brown coun-
ty, in the territory of Michigan, and the ordinary
courts of law are established.

The fort is situated on a handsome grassy plain,
on the north bank of Fox river, near the point of its
entrance into Green Bay. It consists of a range of
log barracks, facing three sides of a square parade,
and surrounded by a stockade of timber, thirty feet
high, with block houses at the angles. The whole
is white washed, and presents a neat military appear-
%nce. It is at present garrisonf'd by three hundred

4/

370

men, under Captain Whistler, who has the tempora-
ry command of the post, during the absence of Colo-
nel J. L. Smith. There are also about three hundred
infantry, in cantonments, at Camp Smith, three
miles above fort Brown, on the south side of the
river, where preparations are making to erect a per-
manent fortification of stone, during the ensuing year.
The site chosen for the work is extremely beautiful,
airy, and commanding. A party of men have been em-
ployed during the summer, in quarrying the building
stone, near the Rock rapid. On visiting this quarry,
I found it to consist of a bluish-grey limestone, semi-
crystalline in its structure, and containing small dis-
seminated masses of blende, sometimes in cavities
along with calcareous spar, and iron pyrites.

XC. Day. — {^urrust 2\st.) — Fox river has been
characterized by one of the oldest writers on Amer-
ican topography,* as " a muddy stream, abounding
equally in rocks and savannahs, and inclosed with a
steep coast, and frightful rocks," but these traits, al-
though oenerally characteristic of the river, are not
all applicable to any individual sections of it; for
w herever its banks are muddy or marshy, there are
no rock strata, and in passing over those shallows,
where the latter crop out, particularly in a birch-
bark canoe, and during the summer season, when
the water is lowest, the lerm "frightful" will con-
vey a just idea of the dangers and difficulties of the
navigation.

The entire length of this riveris two hundred and
sixty miles, fifty of which consist of lalses. Its most

*La Hontan, p. Ill, vol. 1.

371

extreme northwestern tributary is the outlet of
Lac Vaseux, which unites with the portage branch,
after running thirty miles in a southeasterly direc-
tion. This point is called the Forks of the river,
and is fifteen miles distant from the portage of the
Ousconshig. It is ft hundred and ninety miles from
thence to the outlet of Winnebago lake, in which
distance it is swelled by the Menomonie, Deloup, and
several smaller streams, and expands into a number
of little lakes, the largest of which are Puckaway
and Du Boeuf. This is the favourite region of wild
rice, and water fowl, and during all this distance,
the river has neither a fall or a rapid, but runs with
so still a current, that it has scarcely a perceptible
motion. Neither are the rock strata upon which the
soil is based, at any spot visible ; but as far as the
eye can reach, the country presents a beautiful va-
riety of woods and prairies — long sloping hills,
which are crowned with copses of oak, and exten-
sive vallies, covered with a luxuriant growth of the
wild rice, the scirpus lucustris, and other aquatic
plants. Through such a valley, the Fox river pur-
sues its broad, still, and devious course, and is so
prolific in the various species of water plants, that
often, where it is a mile in width, there is scarce
open space enough in its centre, to allow the pas-
sage of a canoe ; but it has every where a fine
depth of water, and is free from stagnation. Here,
as the rice begins to ripen, the various tribes of wa-
ter fowl instinctively repair, to dispute, with the
savages, their claims to the harvest, and are killed
in such numbers, that the Indians, while the season
lasts, are not put to the trouble of hunting for any
other description of animal food. The region is al-

372

so highly favourable to the iimnmerable tribes of
fresh water crustacae, reptiles, and amphibious
quadrupeds. Among the latter, the otter, mink,
and muskrat are still common; but the beaver and
martin, once so numerous, are becoming very rare.
The soil is every where of the most fertile kind.

On approaching the foot of Winnebago lake, we
perceive a ridge of highlands running parallel with
its eastern shore, and apparently barricading the
passage of the river in that direction, which, as if
conscious of the obstruction, first turns to the north,
but gradually winds about to the east, and south
east, and passing through this ridge is bordered
with elevated, and, in some places, rocky banks,
and the channel is broken by the Konomee falls,
and by the Winnebago, the little, and grand Kaka-
lin, and the Rock rapids. The distance occupied
by these obstructions, (from the outlet of Winnebago
lake to the Rock rapids,) is forty miles, and the na-
vigation of this part of it, during the summer season,
is attended with difficulty and fatigue.

This is the section of the river " inclosed with a
steep coast and frightful rocks," but the latter pre-
sent no formidable obstacle to the navigation, during
the spring and fall ; and the coast, although elevated
two or three hundred feet, is far from being sterile,
or mountainous. The soil is a red loam, supporting
a heavy forest of oak, pine, hickory, and maple, and
interspersed with occasional patches of highland
prairie. This part of the river has very little wild
rice, but is abundantly stored with white and black
bass, carp, pike, suckers, and other fish ; and is re-
sorted to by the Indians with a certain prospect of
sustenance, during a part of the year.

373

From the Rock rapid to Green Bay, a distance
of six miles, the river flows with a smooth current —
is more than a mile wide, and is joined, in the inter-
mediate distance, by two considerable streams, call-
ed Devil and Duck rivers, the former of which en-
ters on the south shore, directly opposite the site of
old fort Le Bay.

There is perhaps no stream, of secondary
magnitude, in the northwestern parts of Amer-
ica, which affords so many facilities to savage
life, or which actually supports so great a sa-
vage population, as Fox river; and taking into con-
sideration the great fertility and extent of its tillable
soil — the rural beauty of the country — its advan-
tageous position for commerce, either with the north
or south, and its salubrious and delightful climate,
it will probably hereafter, when the Indian tribes,
yield before an industrious emigration, support one
of the most compact, extensive, and valuable agri-
cultural settlements in the Michigan territory.

The junction of this river with Green Bay, affords
one of the most favourable positions for witnessing
a phenomenon, which has attracted the attention of
travellers from the earliest times, without, however,
having, as yet, elicited any very satisfactory explica-
tion of an apparently reversed order of nature. I
allude to the appearances of a regular tide at this
place, but in so doing, it iamore with a view of pre-
senting an outline of those facts which have been
observed by others, than of entering into any disqui-
sition on the subject myself

In the year 1689, the Baron La Hontan, on reach-
ing Green Bay, remarks, that where the Fox river
is discharged into the bay, he observed the water
of the lake swell three feet high, in the space of

374

twentj'-four hours, an<3 decrease as much in the same
'length of time. He also noticed a contrariety, and
confliction of currents in the narrow strait which
connects lakes Huron and Michigan, which he says,
" are so strong, that they sometimes suck in the fish-
ing nets, although they are two or three leagues off.
In some seasons, i< so fails out, that the currents
run three days eastward — two days to the west —
one, to the south — and four to the northward ; some-
times more, and sometimes less. The cause of this
diversity of cu^Tents could never be fathomed, for
in a calm, they will run in the space of one day, to
all points of the compass, without any limitation of
time, so that the decision of this matter must be lefl
to the disciples of Copernicus."*

In 1721, Charlevoix remarks similar appearances,
but treats the subject with unusual brevity, evidently,
from the difficulties which occurred to him, in giving
any satisfactory explanation. He supposes lakes Hu-
ron and Michigan to be alternately discharged into
oach other through the strait of Michilimackinac,
and mentions the fact, that in passing that strait,
his canoe was carried with the current against a
head tvind. In another place, in speaking of an appa-
rent flux and retiux of the lakes, he supposes that it
was " owing to the springs at the bottom of the lakes.
and to the shock of their currents, with those of the
rivers, which fall into them from all sides, and thus
produce those intermitting motions.!

In ]ul9, Captain Henry Whiting, of the Uniterl

"La Honiafs'd voyages to Canada.
* Charlevoix's Journa!; vol. l, p. 314.

375

States army, made a series of observations during
seven or eight days, upon these oceanic appear-
ances, which serve to shew, that the water at Green
Bay, has a rise and fall daily, but that it is irre-
gular as to the precise period of flux and reflux, an 1
also as to the height it attains.

On reaching Green Bay, during the present expe-
dition. Governor Cass directed one of the men, to
drive a stake at the water's edge, upon the banks of
Fox river, at the spot of our encampment, which
was a mile above its discharge into the bay, and to
mark the height of the water. It appeared, from
frequently inspecting this gauge, during the period
of our slay, which was, however, but two days, that
there was a considerable rise and fall of the water —
that there was a difference as to the time consumed
in passing from its minimum to its maximum height,
and that although it arose against a strong whid blow-
ing out of the river, the rise, under these circum-
stances was kss, than in ordinary cases.

From all these circumstances, there is reason to
conclude, that a well conducted series of experi-
ments, will prove, that there are no regular tides in
the lakes, at least, that they do not ebb and flow
twice in twenty-four h'ours, like those of the ocean —
that the oscillating motion of the waters is not at-
tributable to planetary attraction — that it is very va-
riable as to the periods of its flux and reflux, depend-
ing upon the levels of the several lakes, their length,
depth, direction, and conformation — upon the pre-
valent winds and temperatures, and upon other ex-
traneous causes, which are in some measure varia-
ble in their nature, and unsteady in their operation.

Xjake Michigan, from its great depth of water-^

376

its bleak and unguarded shores — and its singular
length and direction, which is about four hundred
miles from north to south, appears to be peculiarly
exposed to the influence of the currents of the at-
mosphere, to whose agency we may attribute, at
least in part, the appearances of a tide, which are
more striking upon the shores of this, than of any
of the other great lakes. The meteorological ob-
servations which have been made, in the Transalle-
ghanian states, indicate the winds to prevail, either
north or south, through the valley of the Mississip-
pi ; but seldom across it, so that the surface of this
lake, would be constantly exposed to agitation, from
the atmosphere. These winds would almost inces-
santly operate, to drive the waters through the nar-
row strait of Michilimackinac, either into lake
Huron or lake Michigan, until, by their natural ten-
dency to an equilibrium, the waters thus pent,
would re-act, after attaining a certain height, against
the current of the most powerful winds, and thus keep
up an alternate flux and reflux, which would always
appear more sensibly in the extremities and bays of
the two lakes ; and with something like regularity, as
to the periods of oscillation ; the velocity of the
water, however, being governed by the varying de-
grees of the force of the winds.

Something analogous to this, is perceived in the
Baltic, which has no regular tides, and therefore
experiences no difference of height, except when
the wind blows violently. " At such times," says
Pennant, " there is a current in, and out of the Bal-
tic, according to the points they blow from, which
forces the water through the sound, with the veloci-
ty of two or three Danish miles in the hour. When

377

.1

the wind blows violently, from the German sea, the
water rises in several Baltic harbours, and gives
those in the western part, a temporary saltness ; oth-
erwise, the Baltic looses that other property of a sea,
by reason of the want of tide, and the quantity of
vast rivers it receives, which sweeten it so much,
as to render it, in many places, fit for domestic
use."

48

CHAPTER XIV.

J O U R JV E Y,

FROM GREEjy BAY TO CHICAGO.

XCI. DAY.'—{Jugiisi 22d.)

On reaching Green Bay, the escort of soldiers,
which had tlius far accompanied us, and the Indians,
who were taken along as hunters, were no longer
deemed necessary, either to our sustenance or safety ;
and the former were ordered to join their respect-
ive companies, in the garrison, while the latter were
furfiished with a canoe and provisions, to proceed,
at their own convenience, to their homes, on the
eastern shores of Lake Michigan. We here, also,
embraced the opportunity of shipping to Detroit,
our collections, in the different departments of na-
tural history, and a part of our personal baggage,
&c by the schooner Decatur, which sailed from the
bay the morning after our arrival. Thus reduced
in numbers, and lightened of baggage, the expedi-
tion was still further diminished by detaching a ca-
noe with eight men, under the orders of Mr. Trow-
bridge, accompanied by Mr. Doty, and Mr. Chase,
to proceed around the western shores of Green
Bay, to Michilimackinac; while the remainder of the
party, still numbering two canoes, and sixteen men,

379

coasted southerly to Chicago, and thence around
the eastern shores of Lake Michigan, to Michili-
mackinac.

We parted from Mr. Trowbridge, at the mouth of
Fox river, at half past two in the afternoon, and
proceeding along the eastern shore of Green Bay
twenty five miles, encamped on the beach at twilight.
The shore is a fertile alluvion, covered with sugar
maple, elm, oak, hemlock, and poplar. The bay has
a sandy beach, and transparent waters. In a short
time we were overtaken by the Indians, who had
recently constituted a part of the expedition, and
they encamped with u.3. In the course of the eve-
ning, they endeavoured to point out to us by moon-
light, a rocky island, at three or four miles distance,
in which there is a large cavern, which has been
employed, by their tribes, from the remotest times,
as a repository for the dead. They appeared to
regard the spot, as the monument of a long race of
heroes, sages, and warriors, whose deeds were de-
servedly embalmed in the memories of a grateful
posterity; and spoke of it in a manner, evincing a
high spirit of ancestry ; and, as if, like the castle of
Fredolfo, it borrowed all its lustre from the heroes
whom it enshrined.

" It hath a charm the stranger knovvoth not—'

" It is the dwelling; of' mine aac "Stry !

" Th'-reis an inspiration in its shade;

"The echoes of its walls are eloquent,

"Th*^ words they speak, are of the jrlorious dead |

" lis tenants are not hnniai - they are more !

" The stones have voices, and the walls do live,

*' [t is the housH oi u^emorie^ d**arly honoured,

'' By many a long trace of departed giory."

Matuwn.

380

XCII. Daw— (Jugust 23(/.)— It is twenty niiles
iiom the spot of our encampment, to Sturgeon bay,
which is six miles wide and fifteen in length, narrow-
ing gradually towards its head, where it receives a
small stream. From this spot, there is a portage of
three pauses, across the peninsula, to Lake Michi-
gan, where we arrived at an early hour in the after-
noon, but were prevented from embarking, by a
strong head wind. The shore of the lake is alluvi-
al, with a sandy beach, strewed with fragments and
pebbles of primitive and secondary rocks, among
which are found water worn masses of greasy, and
translucent quartz, chalcedony, petrified madre-
pores, &;c. The forest trees are maple, beech, hem-
lock, &c.

XCIII. Day.— '(Mgiisf 2ith.) — Following around
the numerous indentations of the shore, we pro-
gressed, in p. general direction south, forty six miles.
In the course of the day, we passed the mouth of a
small river, flowing from the west, called La Four-
che. Among the forest trees, the beech {fagus fer-
Tuginea) has been conspicuous : oak, pine, poplar,
birch, hemlock, and maple, have also been abun-
dant. The banks of the lake are a sandy alluvion,
reposing upon transition limestone, which is occa-
sionally seen in ledges, elevated two or three feet
above the water, upon the prominent points of the
shore. Petrifactions, continue to be found, lying
promiscuously among fragments of granite, horn-
blende, sienite, quartz, limestone, ^'c. .

XIV. T> AY. —{August 25th.)— In coasting forty miles
along the shore, we came to the mouth of a large

381

stream, called Manitowacky, where there is a vil-
lage of Menomonie Indians, of six lodges. Five
miles beyond, we encamped upon the beach, ha-
ving progressed fifteen leagues, as indicated by a
lunar observation. The country consists of a suc-
cession of sand hills, covered* with pine. The
banks of the lake are elevated from twenty to sixty
feet, with a broad sand beach, strewed with gra-
nitic and calcareous pebbles, &;c. In walking along
some parts of the shore, I observed a great number
of the skeletons and half consumed bodies of the
pigeon, which, in crossing the lake, is often overta-
ken by severe tempests, and compelled to alight
upon the water, and thus drowned, in entire flocks,
which are soon thrown up along the shores. This
causes the shores of Lake Michigan to be visited by
vast numbers of buzzards, eagles, and other birds
of prey. The Indians also make use of these pigeons,
as food, when they are first driven ashore, preserving
such in smoke, as they have not immediate occasion
for. Vast broods of young gulls, are also destroyed
during the violent storms, which frequently agitate
this lake.

XCV. Day.— (^August 26th) — Progressed forty-
three miles, and encamped, some time after dark,
at the mouth of Milwacky river. This is a stream
of sixty yards wide at its mouth, and is ascended a
hundred miles in canoes, being connected by a
short portage, with the Rock river of the Mississip-
pi : — a route frequently travelled in canoes, by the
Pottowatomies and Menomonies. There are two
American families, and a village of Pottowatomies,
at its mouth. It is the division lino between the

382 -

lands of the Menomonies and Pottowatomies ; th©
latter claim all south of it.

XCVI. D AY. -(^J If gust 21th.) — A. head wind detain-
ed us a considerable part of the day, but we ad-
vanced thirty-five fniles, passing, in that distance,
the Sac and Skehoigon rivers. Five miles south of
the Milwacky, there is found a bed of white clay
upon the shore of the lake ; and a short distance
back, in a prairie, a vein of red oxide of iron, both
of which substances, are much employed by the In-
dians, as paints. Fifteen miles further south, com-
mences a range of high clay bluffs, covered with
sand, on the verge of the lake, which extend, with
occasional depressions, fifteen or twenty miles. At
the foot of this, at the water's edge, there is a large
body of pyrites, of a brass yellow colour- — great
weight, and crystallized in a variety of regular forms,
the most common of which is a cube, truncated at
the angles. Some of these crystals are six or eight
pounds in weight, with an imposing metallic lustre.
They occur in beds in a tenacious blue clay, from-
which they are washed by the waves, and left io
promiscuous piles along the shore, where, being ex-
posed to attrition, their crystalline forms are gradu-
ally obliterated, and they assume, at last, the shape
of spheroidal and globular pebbles, parting, also, in
the course of this process, with their natural exter-
nal lustre. It is only those masses, which are newly
exposed, tliat present, under the deceptive glare of
polished brass, those beautiful geometrical solids,
which sulphur, in its various associations and com-
binations, in the mineral kingdom, so frequently
assumes. At the spot of our encampment, thirty-

383

five miles south of Milwacky, I found a singular li-.
quid mineral, resembling asphaltum, contained in
cavities in a calcareous rock. Where it had suffer-
ed a natural exposure to the weather, it had the
colour and consistence of dried tar, but on obtain-
ing a fresh fracture, it was so liquid as to flow from
the cavities, and presented an olive brown colour,
inclininsr to black.

XCVir. DAY.—{J7(gu$t 28//1.)— Proceeded forty
miles. The shore, during this distance, is princi-
pally prairie, upon which the oak tree predom-
inates. In some instances, there are hillocks of
sand, either wholly destitute of vegetation, or cap-
ped with scattering pines. Among the detached
rocks of the shore, are found, calcareous spar, crys-
tallized quartz, cacholong, jasper, toadstone, &c.

XCVIir. V AY.— {Jugust 29th).— We reached Chi-
cago at five o'clock in the morning, after proceeding
ten miles. 1 he village consists of ten or twelve
dwelling houses, with an aggregate population, of
probably, sixty souls. The garrison stands on the
south shore of Chicago creek, four or five hundred
yards from its entrance into the lake, and, like the
majority of our frontier posts, consists of a square
stockade, inclosing barracks, quarters for the offi-
cers, a magazine, provision store, &c. and defend-
ed by bastions at the northwest, and southeast an-
gles. It is at present occupied by a hundred and
sixty men, under the command of Captain Brad-
ley. \

The village of Chicago is situated in the state of
Illinois, the northern boundary line of which, com-

384

mences, on the lake shore, about twenty miles
north of the fort, and running due west, strikes
the Mississippi between Dubuque's lead mines, and
Prairie du Chicn. It is two hundred and seventy-
five miles, from Chicago to Green Bay, by the way
of the lakes, and the portage of Sturgeon bay — and
four hundred to the island of Michilimackinac.

Chicago creek is eighty yards wide, at the garri-
son, and has a bar at its mouth, which prevents
shipping from entering, but is deep within. It is as-
cended eleven miles in boats, and barges, where
there is a portage of seven miles across a prairie,
to the river Plein, the main northwestern fork of
the Illinois.

The intervening country consists of different stra-
ta of marl and clay, presenting great facilities for
canal excavation, and the difference in the level of
the two streams is so little, that loaded boats of
a small class, may pass over the lowest parts of the
prairie, during the spring, and autumnal freshets. —
But at mid-summer, it is necessary to transport them
over land, to mount Juliet, a distance of thirty
miles. From thence the navigation is good, at all
seasons, to St. Louis, a distance of four hundred
miles.

XCIX. Day.— (e/^i^o-M6;.30^/i.)— The country around
Chicago is the most fertile and beautiful that can
be imagined. It consists of an intermixture of woods
and prairies, diversified with gentle slopes, some-
times attaining the elevation of hills, and irrigated
with a number of clear streams and rivers, which
throw their waters partly into lake Michigan, and
partly into the Mississippi river. As a farming

385

country, it unites the fertile soil, of the finest low-
land prairies, with an elevation, which exempts it
from the influence of stagnant waters, and a sum-
mer climate of delightful serenity; while its natural
meadows present all the advantages tor raising stock,of
the most favoured part of the valley of the Mississippi.
It is already the seat of several flourishing planta-
tions, and only requires the extinguishment of the
Indian title to the lands, to become one of the most
attractive fields for the emigrant. To the ordinary
advantages of an agricultural market town, it must,
hereafter, add that of a depot, for the inland com-
merce, between the northern and southern sections
of the union, and a great thoroughfare for stran-
gers, merchants, and travellers.

There is a valuable and extensive bed of mineral
coal, about forty miles southwest of Chicago, on
the Fox river of the Illinois, near the point of its
embouchure. The stratum of coal, which appears
on the banks of the river, is said to have an exten-
sive range towards the northwest, and is only cov-
ered by a light deposit of alluvial soil, of a few feet
in thickness. There is also, about twenty miles
north of Chicago, a bed of red oxide of iron, in a
state of great purity, and its preparation as a pig-
ment, may be expected to result from the influx of
emigrants. Pyrites, are also very common in this
vicinity, yet, it is a singular tact, that the bricks at
Chicago, which are manufactured from the earth,
taken up on the banks of the creek, burn white., like
the Stourbridge fire-bricks, indicating, as I am led
to conclude, an absence of iron, in any of its nu-
merous forms of combination, at least, in the usual

49

386

tiegree. All our common clays burn with some
tint, however light, of red, which has been referred.
by chemical writers, with much precision, to the
presence of oxid of iron.

There is said to be a petrified hickory tree in the
bed of the river Kankakee, near its junction with
the Illinois, forty-five miles by land, and sixty by
the course of the river, from Chicago. It is entire,
and partly imbedded in the calcareous rock, forming
the bed of the Kankakee.

The open nature of the country around Chicago,
exposes it to piercing winds during the winter
months, although the same cause, contributes to
render it a delightful residence during the summer
season. The following is an abstract of a meteo-
rological register, kept by Doctor Wolcott, at Chi-
cago, during the first quarter of the present year.

Jitmosphcric Heat.

Average Temperature.

1820. at 9 a.m.
Jan. 14°

Feb. 29°

M'r.(tol5)27°

Winds.

Jan. w. 8 days, w. n. w. 5, w. s. w. 10, n. n. k. 6, e. n. e. 2.

Feb. E. 7» s. w. 7, \v. 5, s. 2, s. e. 2, w. s. w. 3, e. n- e. 2.

Mar. (to 15) N.N. w. 3, e. n. e. 4,n. n. e.2, n. e.2, s. w. 2.n. w.?.

Weathe?'.

Jan. cloudy 6, — snow storms 6, — clear 19,

Feb. cloudy 8,— rain 4, — clear 17.

MV. (to 1 5) cloudy 1 0.-— clear 4,

v. Temp.

Av. Temp

at 2 p. m.

at 9 p. m.

18°

14°

36°

30°

32°

25°

387

The ice in the lake was fourteen inches in thick-
ness, on the 1st of January, and eighteen and three-
fourths, (its greatest thickness, during the winter ;)
on the second of February. The greatest depth of
snow was tvventj-two inches, on the thirty-first
of January. The thermometer stood at 0 on
the first and nineteenth of January. The highest
degree of heat during that month was 39°. — In Feb-
ruary, the highest heat was 59"— in March? 42°,

CHAPTER XV.

J O U RJ¥ E Y,

FJtOM CHICAGO, THROUGH LAKE MICEIGAJ^, TO
MICHILIMACKIJ^AC.

C Day. — (Jiugust 3\st.)

(jOVERNOR CASS here determined to proceed on
horseback, across the peninsula of Michigan, follow-
ing the Indian trail, to Detroit; and accompanied
by Mr. Kinsey, of Chicago, Major Forsyth, and
Lieutenant M^ickay of the expedition, and one or
two attendants, left Chicago at one o'clock in the af-
ternoon, taking the beach road to the river Du
Schmein, where the path leaves the lake. Jn the
mean time, Captain Douglass and myself, were left
to complete the topographical and geological sur-
vey of Lake Michigan, and joining our compan-
ions, who were detached from Green Bay on the
twenty-second of August, at Michilimackinac, to
proceed to Detroit with all practicable despatch. — •
We were ready to embark at half past two in the
afternoon, and bidding adieu to Doctor Wolcottj
who, being a resident of Chicago, here left the ex-
pedition ; we proceeded, with a fair wind, twenty

389

miles south-southeast, and encamped on the shore
of the lake. At the distance of eleven miles from
Chicago, we passed the mouth of the river Little
Konomick, which is a stream of about forty miles
in length, flowing in, by a deep and narrow channel,
from the south. The shore of the lake, during this
distance, is the sandy margin of a prairie, without
hills. In one instance only, do any rock strata appear,
and then merely at a point, not elevated more than
four or five inches above the water. They are cal-
careous.

CI. Day. — (^September Isf.') — Detained by head
winds. In passing along the shore of the lake, (yes-
terday) at the distance of a mile and a half from
Chicago, the scene of the massacre of the garri-
son, stationed at that place, during the late war,
was pointed out to us. This took place on the fif-
teenth of August, 1812, the day after the surrender
of General Hull, at Detroit. At this eventful peri-
od of the war, gloom hung upon every part of our
extensive northwestern frontiers. The town of Mich-
ilimackinac had already been carried by surprise ;
and the retrograde movements of the American ar-
my, served to flatter the most sanguine hopes of In-
dian animosity — while the recollection of their re-
cent defeat at Tippacanoe — their ancient prejudi-
ces— and above all, their British allies, were every
day adding to their infuriated bands — which, rising
from the north, the east, and the south, now hung
like a gathering tempest over the land, every mo-
ment increasing in its gloom, and threatening rapine
and destruction, to our unfortified frontiers. In this
exigency of the times, while it appeared yet prac-

390

licable to escape, Capt. Heald, commanding the gar-
rison at Chicago, received orders from Gov. Hull to
evacuate the fort, which it would be impossible to suc-
cour, in case of an Indian attack ; and to proceed with
his command, by land, to Detroit. This order was
received on the ninth of August, and had it been
promptly obeyed, it is probable that the fate of the
garrison would have been averted, as the Indians
had not yet appeared in force ; but owing to an in-
fatuation, which it is difficult to explain, eight days
were allowed to elapse, before the order was exe-
cuted, during which time, the Indians had collected
around the garrison to the number of four or five
hundred, and by killing the cattle, and other out-
rageous acts, shewed a determined hostility, al-
though they had not yet menaced the garrison. On
the thirteenth. Captain Wells arrived from fort
Wayne, with thirty friendly Miamies, to escort the
garrison to Detroit, by the request of General Hull.
Still, two days were suffered to pass, before the gar-
rison was evacuated, owing to a fatal security in
which the commandant indulged, in regard to the
dispositions of the Indians — but in which his sub-
alterns, and the inhabitants, did not coincide. At
length, on the fifteenth, having distributed among
the Indians all the goods remaining in the factory
store, with a quantity of provisions; and destroyed
the arms and ammunition, which could not be taken
away, Captain Heald marched out of the garrison,
at nine o'clock in the morning, following along the
sandy beach of the lake, which is the usual route
to fort Wayne and Detroit. The garrison now con-
sisted of fifty-four regulars, and twelve militia, ex-
clusive of the officers, and the friendly Miamies,

391

under Captain Wells. They were accompanied bj
several baggage waggons, containing provisions and
ammunition, and eighteen women and children; the
whole force comprising the entire population, both
civil and military of Chicago. The face of the coun-
try is such, that it is necessary to travel along the
sandy shore of the lake, with sand banks on the right,
at the distance of from one to two hundred yards,
and elevated to such a height, that the country back
of it, is completely hid from the view. They had
not proceeded more than a mile and a half, when it
was perceived that a large body of Indians were
lying in ambush behind these sand hills, and
they soon encompassed them, — the broad lake
extending on the left. This discovery was
scarcely made, when the Indians set up their
horrid yell, and poured down a warm fire in all di-
rections. Several men fell at the first shot, but
Captain Heald formed his men with deliberation,
and after firing one round, ordered a charge, and
ascended the bank, after sustaining a severe loss. —
The Indians in front, fled to the right and left, join-
ing a deadly fire which was kept up from the flanks,
and which it was in vain to resist. In a few moments,
out of sixty-six soldiers, only sixteen were alive. —
Captain Heald succeeded, however, in drawing off
these, to an eminence in the open prairie, out
of reach of their shot. They did not follow him
out, but gathering upon the bank, began a consulta-
tion, and made signs for him to approach. He was
met by a Pottowatomie chief, called the Black Bird,
to whom he surrendered himself, with his Lieut.
(Helm) and sixteen men, under a promise that their
lives should be spared ; but they were afterwards
butchered, from time to time, with the exception of

392

Captain Heakl, and three or four men. Among the
killed, were Ensign Ronan, Doctor Voorhis, and
Captain Wells. The latter had his heart cut out,
and other shocking barbarities committed upon his
body, having rendered himself particularly obnox-
ious to the Indians, by his influence among those
savage tribes, who remained friendly to the United
States. In the course of the action, a party of In-
dians, raising their furious yells, rushed upon the
baggage waggons, where the women and children had
taken shelter, and commenced a scene of plun-
der and massacre, which it would be impossible to
describe. Of eighteen women and children, twelve
were killed upon the spot. Several of the women,
(soldiers' wives) fought with swords.

During the action, a sergeant of infantry, who
had already manifested the greatest bravery, was op-
poseti^n personal combat with an Indian. Both had al-
ready discharged their pieces, when the sergeant saw^
the Indian running up to him with a lifted tomahawk,
but before the blow fell, ran his bayonet in the In-
dian's breast up to the socket, so that he could not
pull it out; yet, in this situation, the Indian toma-
hawked him, and they both fell dead together.* —
The Miamies took no part in this massacre. It was
executed by the Pottowatomie tribe. These facts
are taken from the description given by an eye-wit-

* A similar instance of courage is mentioned to have occurred
in the battle of Oriskany, during the revolutionary war. " There
was found an Indian and a white man, both born on the banks of
the Mohawk, "their left hands clenched in each other's hair, the
right grasping in a gripe of death, the knife plunged in each oth-
er's bosom. Thus they lay frowning." — Governeur Morris^ Dif:
-GQurse before the New-York Historical Society, 1812.

393

!iess, Mr. Kinsey of Chicago, and from Captain
Heald's official report.*

Cir. Day. — {September 2d.) — The wind ceased in
the course of the night, and we embarked at ear-
ly day light. On proceeding twelve miles, we pass-
ed the grand Konomick, the mouth of which is
choaked up with sand, and the appearance of the
country, in the vicinity, is very barren, and uninvi-
ting. Twenty miles beyond, we passed the mouth
of the river du Chemin, (river of the Road.J Here
the path from Chicago to Detroit, by land, leads out
into the prairies. The distance to Detroit, is compu-
ted to be three hundred miles. There is a plain horse
path, which is considerably travelled by traders,
hunters, and others. It is, however, intersected by
innumerable cross paths, leading to different Indian
villages and settlements, so that it could not be pur-
sued by a stranger, without a guide. The country
is said to be handsomely diversified with prairies,
woods, hills, and streams, and furnishes every facil-
ity for waggon roads, settlements, water-mills, &;c.—
In the spring and fall, some danger is to be appre-
hended in crossing several of the streams, but there
are none which may not be safely forded at midsum-
mer.

At a point intermediate, between the grand Ko-
nomick, and the river du Chemin, we passed the spot,
on the beach of the lake, where the schooner Her-
cules, was wrecked in the fall of 1816, and all on
board perished. The mast, pump, and some frag-
ments of spars, scattered along the shore, still serve

* See Fay's Battles, p. 65.
50

391

to mark the spot, and to convey some idea of the
dreadful storms which at certain seasons agitate this
lake. The voya^eurs also pointed out to us, the
graves of those who perished, who appear to have
been buried at different places, along the shore,
where they happened to be washed up. Among
these, was Lieutenant William S. Evileth, an intelli-
gent and promising young officer of engineers, whose
death has been much lamented. He had been em-
ployed in the re-building of the military works at
Chicago, which were burnt down by the Pottowato-
mies, during the late war, after the massacre of the
garrison; and had embarked the day previous to the
shipwreck, at Chicago, to return to his friends, after
a summer spent in arduous and useful service. It
was late in November, when the navigation is at-
termed with so much peril; and the first intelligence
of the fatal catastrophe, was communicated by find-
ing the wreck of the vessel, and the bodies of the
passengers, strewed along tlie shore. Several days
had however elapsed before this discovery was
made, arid the bodies were so beat and bruised by
the spars of the wreck, that the deceased could not
be recognised by their features. The wolves had
gnawed the face of Lieutenant Evileth in so shock-
ing a manner, that lie could not have been recogni-
sed had it not been for the military buttons of his
clothes. His grave is situated beneath a cluster of
small pines, on the declivity of a sand bank, and is
marked by a blazed sapling. His memory would ap-
pear to deserve some tribute of respect, more grateful
to the feelings of humanity, from those with whom
he was formerly associated; and perhaps this sug-

395

gestion has not occurred to the officers, stationed at
the neighbouring garrison.

The little river du Galien, enters the lake ten
miles beyond the river du Chemin, by a mouth
nearly closed with drifting sands. We encamped
on the beach twelve miles beyond it, having pro-
gressed altogether a distance of fifty-four miles.

cm. Day. — (^September 3d.) — We reached the riv-
er St. Joseph, in travelling fourteen miles. This is
one of the largest and most important streams which
flows into the lake on its eastern shore. It is as-
cended one hundred and twenty miles in canoes,
and is connected by a short portage, with a river of
the same name, which runs into the Miami of the
Lake, near fort Wayne — a route which is frequently
travelled by the Indians. This stream was former-
ly the seat of a French fort, and missionary family,
and continued for many years to be one of the most
important places in the region. It is particularly
described by Charlevoix, Hennepin, and other ear-
ly French travellers and missionaries. The lands
upon its banks are represented to be rich and beau-
tiful, and heavily timbered with black walnut, oak,
maple, and elm; but its mouth is skirted by sand
hills, of the most sterile appearance, and support-
ing nothing but pines and poplars. There is found,
towards the sources of tliis river, a variety of sin-
gular petrifactions, which may be referred to the ge-
nus of Phytolites. They consist chiefly, of the leaves,
branches, and roots of trees, mineralized by the
calcareous earth, which appears to be held in solu-
tion by one of the higher tributaries of the St. Jo-

396

seph, in the bed of which these organic reliqua are
found.*

It is twenty-four miles from the St. Joseph, to the
Blackwater river, Avhich is a stream of sixty miles
in length, and is ascended in canoes nearly to its
source. Like all the streams which enter on this
side of the lake, its mouth is almost closed with
yellow sands. In the intermediate distance between
St. Joseph's and the Blackwater, I found along the
shore, a number of specimens of chalcedony, com-
mon jasper, quartz, and some madrepores, and oth-
er organic relics. We encamped twelve miles be-
yond the latter, upon the sandy shore, having pro-
ceeded fifty miles.

CIV. Day. — {September ilh.) — On travelling ten
miles, we passed the river Kikalemazo, which appears
from its mouth, to be a stream of considerable size.
Along the shore of the lake, between this stream and
the Blackwater, the ludus helmontii,t is very abun-
dant.

* These vegetable petrifactions were discovered by Governor
Cass, in his tour across the peninsula of Michigan, from Chicago
to Detroit ; and I am indebted to the zeal, which he uniformly
manifested during the expedition, to promote the cause of sci-
ence, for the very interesting specimens 1 possess from this locali-
ty; and which were conveyed nearly two hundred miles on horse-
back, through the woods.

t " This name is given to orbicular masses of calcareous marl,
usually from one to eighteen inches diameter, whose interior pre-
sents numerous fissures or seams, which divide the mass into ir-
regular prisms. These fissures are usually lined or filled by some
crystallized substance, as calcareous spar or quartz, which have
undoubtedly entered by filtration. These masses are usually found
in beds of marl."

Cleaveland's Mineralogy.

397

Ei^ht miles beyond the Kikalemazo, there is a
river of secondary size, called Black river or Iro-
quois chiefly noted for the ginseng, which is abun-
dantly found upon its banks. Thence, it is seven
leagues to Grand river, which is next in point of
size, and importance, to the St. Joseph. This
stream is said to afford one of the finest tracts of
farming land in the Michigan territory. It forms the
boundary line between the territories of the Potto-
watomie and Ottoway tribes ; and is at present the
residence of a numerous savage population. A bed
of gypsum, of a fine quality for agricultural purpo-
ses, has recently been discovered upon the naviga-
ble waters of this stream.

The next stream of considerable size is the Mas-
kagon, which enters the lake twelve miles from
Grand river, at the mouth of which we encamped,
at eight o'clock, having advanced, during the day,
a distance of fifty -four miles. The margin of the
lake presents a dreary prospect of sand banks, cov-
ered with pine and poplar. The shore is sandy,
with occasional banks of pebbles ; but no rock stra-
ta appear in situ. The only birds, seen along
this part of the coast, are the gull, and the crow. —
We passed, at a short distance from Grand river, a
number of spars, and pieces of timber, belonging
to the wreck of an English vessel, cast away several
years ago on this part of the coast.

We encamped at the mouth of the Maskagon at
twilight, and had a few moments to examine the
singular appearances of this part of the coast, which
consists of conical hills of loose sand, that are
changing their forms and position during every gale
df wind J and in some places, present a few poplars,

398

pines, or hemlocks. In a few moments after land-
ing, one of the men, who had been sent out to pro-
cure wood, returned, bringing with him two singular
productions, which he denominated sand horns. —
1 hey were found attached to the lower part ol a
dead poplar (jpopidus tremidoides) standing upon the
summit of one of those conical hills of naked sand,
which characterize the mouth of the Muskagon;
and in cutting down the tree, fell off. On examin-
ing the tree, I found several smaller productions of
the same kind, attached to the bark, in the manner,
and in the form of common fungi. The sand horns
are a foot in length, branching out in various forms,
like the corals of the ocean, having the granular
structure, of grey sand stone rock, with the or-
ganic external form of the club-fungus. (See the
pl-te.) There is no appearance, however, of a
stipe or stem in breaking otf one of the branches,
nor are there any indications of a nucleus at the
point of attachment to the tree. In hardness, it is
intermediate between a porous sand stone, and cer-
tain steatites; and I have observed during wet
weather, that it acquires a certain degree of flexi-
bility. Muriatic acid has no action upon it, either
in the concentrated or diluted form, but there is an
effervescence in diluted sulphuric acid, and a part
of the powder is held in solution, forming a kind of
jelly, while the pure grains of silicious sand, are
precipitated to the bottom of the glass in the com-
mon form. These circumstances indicate a combi-
nation of vegetable and mineral matter, not exactly
in the form of a common petrifaction, but somewhat
analogous; and will authorize us in classing them
among those organic remains, whose prototype is

j-LATii vni.

'V--"^.'-"'

399

taken from the vegetable kingdom. These consti-
tute the genus Phytolite, in Martin's Systema Reli-
quiorum, under which, the present discovery will
furnish the occasion of erecting a new species, that
shall embrace petrifactions, of the various species of
the botanical order Fungi.

CV. Day. — (^September 5ih.)—h is twelve miles
from the Maskagon to White river — then thirty-one
to the Pentwater, or Black river, with an Indian
village in the intermediate space; and nine more to
the river Marquette, which takes its name from one of
the most enterprising of the Catholic missionaries,
who, during the early settlement of Canada, devoted
themselves, in so extraordinary a manner, to the
reformation of the savage tribes. He was one of the
first discoverers of the Mississippi, and the founder
of Michilimackinac.

*' Father Joseph Marquette," says Charlevoix, "a
native of Laon in Picardy, where his family still
maintains a distinguished rank, was one of the most
illustrious missionaries of New France. This per-
son travelled over all the countries in it, and made
several important discoveries, the last of which was
that of the Mississippi, which he entered with the
Sieur Joliet, in 1673. Two years after this discov-
ery, an account of which he has published, as he
was going from Chicago, which is at the bottom of
Lake Michigan, to Michilimackinac, he entered on
the eighth day of May, 1675, the river in question,
the mouth of which was then at the extremity of the
lower ground, which, as I have already taken notice^
you leave on the right hand as you enter. Here
he erected his altar, and said mass. He went af-

400

terwards lo a small distance, in order to return
thanks, and begged the two men who conducted his
canoe to leave him alone for half an hour. This
time having passed, thej went to seek him, and
were surprised to find him dead; they called to
mind, however, that on entering the river, he had
let drop an expression, that he should end his days
at that place. However, as it was too far to carry
his body to Michilimackinac, they buried him near
the bank of the river, which from that time has re-
tired by degrees, as out of respect for his remains,
as far as the cape, the foot of which it now wash-
es ; and where it has opened itself a new passage."

Fourteen miles north of the river Marquette, San-
dy river throws itself into the lake, by a mouth of
only ten yards wide, being choaked up, in some
measure, by the sands, which are beat up by the
lake. We encamped four miles beyond the latter,
at a late hour, having progressed, with a favourable
wind, seventy miles.

CVL Day. — (September 6ih.) — The distance front
Sandy, to Manistic river, is seventeen miles — thence
thirty, to the river Au Betsie, and two to Gravelly
Point, where we encamped, after proceeding forty-
five miles. We were detained a couple of hours in
the morning, by rain, which continued, with short
intermissions, during the day. There is a great
uniformity in the appearance of the coast, which is
characterized by sand banks, and pines. In some
instances, a stratum of loam, is seen beneath the
sand, and the beech and maple are occasionally
intermixed with the predominating pines of the for-
est; but our impressions in passing along the coast,

401

are only those produced by barren scenery or un-
t:ultivated woods.

" No hamlet smoking through the mists of dawn,
No garden blushing with its fostering dew,
No herds wild browsing on the dasied lawn —
No busy village charms the admiring view.'*

CVII. J) AY. -^{September 7//i.)— The weather still
remained cloudy. — VV^c embarked at early daylight.
In going thirteen miles, we passed a small stream
called Plate river ; and nine miles beyond reached
a noted point, on the east shore of the lake, called
the Sleeping Bear. The shore of the lake here,
consists of a bank of sand, probably two hundred
feet high, and extending eight or nine miles, with-
out any vegetation, except a small hillock, about
the centre, which is covered with pines and pop-
lars, and has served to give name to the place, from
a rude resemblance it has, when viewed at a dis-
tance, to a couchant bear. There are two islands
off this part of the coast, in plain view from the
shore, which are called the Sleeping Bear islands.

Fifteen miles beyond the Sleeping Bear, we pass-
ed Carp river, a small stream ; and a like distance
beyond it, encamped on the southern cape of Grande
Traverse Bay, which is the most considerable in-
dentation in the eastern shore of Lake iVlichigan,
being nine miles wide, and about twenty or twenty-
five in length, narrowing towards its head, whpie it
receives the Ottoway river. At this place, the rock
strata first appear in situ, in travelling from Chica-
go to Michilimackinac, with the exception of a point
near the little Konomick, formerly mentioned. It

51

402

is calcareous, stratified, and with shells sparingly
imbedded. It scarcely appears above the water in
the ledge, but large detached masses of it, with
enormous boulders of hornblende, and granite, are
lying in the water near the shore, and render it
dangerous to turn this cape in canoes, during the
i)ight, or in cases of a strong wind.

A visible eclipse of the sun had been calculated
for this day, to commence at seven o'clock, twenty
minutes ; but we coukl perceive no obscuration,
notwithstanding that the sun shone out, a great part
of the time between six and eight o'clock, and we
were prepared to observe the commencement and
duration of the eclipse, by the telescope, and the
darkened glasses of a common sextant. The at-
mosphere was cloudy and obscure at daylight, but
lightened towards six o'clock, and between that and
eight, a succession of fleecy clouds passed rapid-
ly before the sun, sometimes veiling it entirely
fox a number of minutes, but during the inter-
vals, it shone forth with its usual effulgence, and
we could observe no diminution in the light, the
transparency, or the temperature of the air. This
eclipse was observed according to the predictions
at Philadelphia, &c.

evil I. Day. — (^September Sth.) — We were favour-
ed with a calm, in crossing the Grand Traverse,
which is nine miles. It is then six miles to La Pe-
tit Traverse, which is two leagues across ; and nine
more, to the Indian village of L'Arbre Croche.
This consists of about forty families of Ottoways,
who are settled upon a very fertile tract of land,
and raise corn, potatoes, pease, beans, cucumber>s,

403

and pumpkins, not only in sufficient quantity for
their own subsistence, but thej annually take a
quantity of corn to the Michilimackinac market.—
They reside in permanent, and comfortable houses,
and number altogether, about three hundred souls.
There was formerly a Jesuit Mission established at
this place, but it declined with the fall of the French
power in the Canadas. The site of the chapel, and
the clerical mansion, was designated by our Cana-
dian conductors, as we passed a point of land at
the northern extremity of the village, which still
continues to be called Point a'ia Mission. A cluster
of islands in the lake, called the Beaver islands, are
visible in passing along the coast, between the
Sleeping Bear and L'Arbre Croche; and are no-
ted as affording safe anchorage ground to vessels
navigating the lakes. It is twenty-four miles from
Point a'ia Mission to Wagashonz or Fox Point, in
the straits of Michilimackinac, and nine from thence
to the site of old 'Mackinac ; in the vicinity of which,
we encamped after dark, having progressed fifty-
seven miles.

CIX. Day. — {September 9ih.) — The approach of
daylight, which disclosed to our view, the island of
Michilimackinac, brought with it, a gale of wind
which created such a swell on the lake, that we
could not venture to embark. At eleven o'clock,
the swells broke with less fury along the shore, al-
though still too boisterous to attempt the traverse ia
loaded canoes ; but counselled rather by our impa-
tience than our judgment, we determined to hazard
the attempt, in a light canoe, strongly manned by
ovir best voyaguers, who volunteered on the occa-

404

sion, and had the good fortune, after being tossed up-
on the billows for several hours, to reach the harbour
of Michilimackinac in safety.

ex. Day. — {September JOth,) — Our friends, from
whom we parted at Green Bay on the 22nd of Au-
gust, had arrived there several days before us, ha-
ving experienced favourable winds, and completed
the passage in eight days. On separaiing from us
at the mouth of Fox river, they coursed around the
western shores of Green Bay to Detour, which is
the point of the northern peninsula separating Green
Bay from Lake Michigan ; and thence along the
northwestern margin of the lake to Point St. Ig-
nace, and Michilimackinac. The entire distance
by that route, is computed at two hundred and eigh-
ty miles. Green Bay has two considerable indenta-
tions, called Little Bay de iNoquet, and Great
Bay de Noquet. Between Fox river and Little
Bay de Noquet, a large stream throws itself into
the bay, called Menomonie river, which is connect-
ed with some of the tributary waters of Lake Su-
perior. Between Detour and Point St. Ignace, the
Mino Cockien, Manistique, and some smaller rivers,
enter the lake. This part of the country is gene-
rally barren, consisting mainly of sandy pine ridges,
or naked calcareous rocks. The western shores of
Green Bay, afford some fine lands, mixed, however,
with a portion that is either low and swampy, or
rocky and sterile. In passing these coasts, Mr.
Trowbridge and Mr. Doty, procured a number of
specimens illustrative of the mineralogy and geolo-
gy of the region. '• The most intcrestiiig of these,"
says the former in a note to me on the subject, " will

4ori

probably be the organic remains, which you will
find in the lower part of the collection ; they were
procured in Little Noquet Bay, on the northeast
siJe, where ridges of limestone show themselves
frequently. In another part of our collections, you
will find a specimen of the limest.>ne weighing about
two pounds, of which the upper stratum is compos-
ed, {secondary limestone,^ and likewise, two pieces
of the lower stratum, resembling blue pipe-stone,
which were quite soft when first taken up. {Earthy
compact limestone ) The middle stratum was compos-
ed of these remains. {Pectinites.)

" About ten miles northeast of the Great Bay de
Noquet, we found flint, or hornstone, of which spe-
cimens are sent. It was found in small quantities
attached to the limestone rocks. (This is the com-
mon hornstone in nodules.^

" There is also a specimen of marble, {transition
limestone') which, however, we saw little of; but since
our arrival, are informed that a large bluff compos-
ed of the same, is seen from thirty to forty miles
from this place, on the lake shore. That which we
procured, was sixty miles from this."

The canoe, with our baggage, which we left on
the peninsula, on the morning of the ninth, travers-
ed the strait of Michilimackinac to Point St. Ignace,
in the evening of that day, and rejoined us this morn-
ing in the harbour of Michilimackinac.

CXI. Day. — {September I'ith.) — Several years ago,
a brilliant specimen of native copper, weighing
ten or twelve pounds, of an irregular shape, was
brought to this place by one of the traders, who had
procured it from an Indian oa tLe banks of VVinne-

406

bago lake. Differing little in its external character
from other masses of the same substance, which
have been so frequently found throughout this re-
gion, I should not bring the circumstance into notice,
were it not to illustrate by the following fanciful sto-
ry, the fertility of invention and the powers of ima
gination, possessed by some of the savage tribes.
The Indian related, that passing in his canoe during
the afternoon of a beautiful summei's day, across
Winnebago lake, when the sun was just visible above
the tops of the trees, and a delightful calm prevail-
ed over the face of the waters, he espied at a distance
in the lake before him, a beautiful female form stand-
ing in the water. Her eyes shone with a brilliancy
that could not be endured, and she held in her hand
a lump of glittering gold. He immediately paddled
towards the attractive object, but as he came
near, he could perceive that it was gradually al-
tering as to its shape and complexion ; her eyes
no longer shone with brilliancy — her face lost the
hectic glow of life — her arms imperceptibly disap-
peared ; and when he came to the spot where she
stood, it was a monument of stone, having a human
face, with the fins and tail of a fish. He sat a long
while in amazement, fearful either to touch the
super-human object, or to go away and leave it; at
length, having made an offering of the incense of to-
bacco, and addressed it as the guardian angel of his
country, he ventured to lay his hand upon the statue,
and finally lifted it into his canoe. Then sitting in
the other end of the canoe, with his back towards
the miraculous statue, he paddled gently towards
the shore, but was astonished, on turning round, to
find nothing in his canoe, but the large lump of cop-

407

per, " which,'' he concluded, taking it carefullj from
a roll of skins, " I now present to you."

CX[I. Day.— (September 1 2^/t.)— At Michilimacki-
nac.

CHAPTER XVI.

HETUBJV TO BETROrr,

CXII. Day. — {September l^th.)

fV E left Michilimackinac at three o'clock in the af-
ternoon, and proceeding ten miles, encamped at
Point aux Pins on the lower extremity of the island
of Bois Blanc. This island is from ten to twelve
miles in length, by three in width at the widest part,
stretching in the form of a crescent between the island
of Michilimackinac and the peninsula of Michigan.
The lower part of it, consists of a sandy plain cover-
ed with pitch pines {pimis resinosa) but by far the
greatest portion of the island is a fertile soil, well
adapted for tillage, and bearing a forest of elm,
maple, oak, ash, and white wood, the latter being
the predominating tree. In the summer season, it
bas a luxuriant under-growth of grass, vines, and
succulent plants, and serves as pasturage ground for
the cattle and horses of the inhabitants of Michili-
mackinac, and also as a repository of fire-wood and
building timber ; and is, in every respect, a most
valuable appendage to that settlement.

CXIV. Day. — (September lUh.) — Detained by un*
favourable winds during the morning. — In tlie mean-

409

time, Capt Douglass revisits 'Mackinac, and returns
in the evening, when the wind abating, we proceed-
ed across the Traverse to the main shore — a dis-
tance ol" four miles. While detained on Bois Blanc,
a vessel bound for Michilimackinac, passed up
through the narrow strait, which separates the isl-
and from the main shore. It is interesting to con-
template the progress of commerce through regions,
which at no remote period, were only traversed in
bark canoes ; and which, perhaps, in a still shorter
period, may smile under the hand of agriculture,
civilization, and the arts. Every fact, connected with
the early settlement of a country, acquires, in pro-
cess of time, a moral importance of which we are
scarcely aware ; and the historian siezes with avidi-
ty upon the insolated records of the introduction of
any improvement in agriculture, inventions in the
arts, and other changes which affect the condition
and comfort of men, however unimportant in them-
selves, to characterize the early stages of society,
in every country. Only a hundred and forty-one
years have now elapsed, since the first vessel of Eu-
ropean construction, was launched upon the northern
lakes. The date, and the facts connected with
its construction, are well authenticated by the
concurrent testimony of all the early travellers of
the region, and have been already mentioned, in a
former part of this Journal,- but it is added by Fa-
ther Hennipen, that this vessel, called " the Griffin,"
was wrecked during the same year in Lake Michi-
gan, with a cargo of furs and skins, valued at sixty
thousand livres. It is now two years since a steam
boat was introduced upon the lakes. This vessel,
called the " Walk-in-the-Water." in allusion to a

52

no

fVyandot chief, made its first trip to the islaiul of
Michilimackinac during the summer of 1810 ; and
produced as great a degree of astonishment among
the Indians, who had a-sembled to witness its arrival,
as it would have done, had such a vessel entered
the moudi of the Tiber during the meridian splen-
dour of the arts and arms of emperial Rome. The
latter must have been equally surprised to see a ship
ploughing rapidly through the water, without the
aid of sails or oars ; but with this diiference — that
the ancient Roman could readily have been made to
comprehend the nature of the power by which it
was propelled, whereas to the savage mind, it re-
mained wholly incomprehensible and mysterious.—
Like all appearances, however, which are not un-
derstood, whether of natural or artificial creation;
it was conjectured to be the work of super-human
agency, and they were not slow in accounting for it,
by a reference to the sublime system of Indian
mythology. According to this, Micca6o, who is the
spirit of water, and answers to the Neptune of the
heathens, exerts an influence over all those various
tribes of the creation, who are compelled to inhab-
it the streams, rivers, and lakes ; and they suppos-
ed that he had summoned from the great salt lake»
(meaning the ocean) a number of large fishes, or
Missi-kikons^ who were employed to draw this vessel
through the water in so extraordinary a manner, in
return for some signal favour received from the white
men. Such is the facility with which the northern
Indians account for the most extraordinary phenom-
ena.

CXV. Day. — {September 1 5th.)— A violent rain

411

storm during the night ; — we embarked at day breaks
and descended to Presque Isle, a distance of forty-
four miles.

CXVI. Day. — {September 1 Qth.^ — Rainy — embark-
ed at five in the morning, and proceeded to Thun-
der Bay, on the north cape of which we encamped,
at an early hour in the afternoon, the lake threaten-
ing a violent storm ;— -distance thirty miles.

At the spot of our encampment, and around the
shores of Thunder Bay, petrifactions of the encri-
nite, pectinite, celieporite, &c. are abundant. They
occur imbedded in compact limestone, which ap-
pears in horizontal strata along this part of the coast,
although it does not attain a great elevation above
the surface of the water. The application of these
relics, in determining the geological ages of the dif-
ferent mineral strata, composing the crust of theglobe,
was certainly one of the happiest and the most im-
portant of the discoveries for which the sciences of
mineralogy and geology stand indebted to the cele-
brated Werner. No sooner was this fact advanced,
than men of science in all parts of the world, be-
gan to perceive that certain limestones, slates, schists,
&c. were characterized by containing the im-
bedded remains of plants, shells, polypi, and fishes;
while other rocks, and different species of the same
genus of rocks, were entirely free from these re-
mains, thus furnishing evidence, which appears in-
controvertible in the present state of the science,
that the former are of the most recent formation. A
minute examination of the different species of im-
bedded relics found in similar rocks, in countries the
most distant and remote, served also to shew a qo?

412

incidence in the composition, relative position, and
petrifactions of rocks, which has laid the founda-
tion of the theory of universal stratification, and of
the formation of all mineral strata, through the agen-
cy of watery menstruse either by subsidence, or by
crystallization ; and perhaps there is nothing which
the combined lights of geology and philosophy at
the present period, tend more conclusively to prove?
than that the different continents of the earth, were
simultaneously created, however since disrupted
by earthquakes, washed away by seas, or dilapidated
by time.

" Neither an attentive examination of the geologi-
cal constitution of America," says the Baron de
Humboldt, " nor reflections on the equilibrium of
the fluids, that are diffused over the surface of the
globe, lead us to admit, that the new continent
emerged from the waters at a later period than the
old : we discern in the former the same succession
of stony strata, that we find in our own hemisphere;
and it is probable, that, in the mountains of Peru, the
granites, the micaceous schists, or the diflferent for-
mations of gypsum and gritstone, existed originally at
the same periods, as the rocks of the same denomi-
nations in the Alps of Switzerland. The whole
globe appears to have undergone the same catastro-
phes. At a height superior to that of Mount Blanc,
on the summit of the Andes, we find petrified sea-
shells ; fossil-bones are spread over the equinoctial
regions ; and what is very remarkable, they are not
discovered at the feet of the palm trees in the burn-
ing plains of Oronoco, but on the coldest and most
elevated regions of the Cordilleras. In the new world,
as well as in the old, generations of species long ex-

413

tinct, have preceded those, which now people the
earth, the waters, and the air."*

CXVn. Day. —-{September nth.)—\Ye proceeded
across Thunder Bay, at five o'clock in the morning,
landing a few moments upon the island near its cen-
tre, and passing successively, the spot of oui former
encampment, at the mouth of the river au Sables,
and the northwest cape of Saganaw Bay, encamped
on the western shore of the latter, at Sandy Point ;
having made a journey of fifty -five miles. Here we
found a family of Saganaw Indians, who had taken
up a temporary residence at that place, attracted by
the abundance of water fowl, found in a contiguous
inlet. These people lead a wandering life, abiding
but a short time at a place, changing their habita-
tions whenever the deer, the fish, or the wild fowl,
promise an easier subsistence at another place.
They live in tents formed of rush-mats, supported by
a few slender poles ; and all their moveable effects
and household goods, together with the family, are
readily transported in a birch bark canoe. On en-
tering the tent, we found no person in, but the squaw
and children, who manifested none of that timidity,
and apparent fear, which it is common to find among
unfrequented tribes. The woman was engaged at
the moment, in picking the feathers from a number
of wild ducks, apparently just killed which lay at
her side, and our entrance appeared to have no more
effect upon her than it probably would, had one of
her own family entered. She continued her work.
This may be considered as the result of the confi-

* HumboHl's Researches, vol. i.p. 11.

414

dence they repose in the whiles, — the frequency of
their interviews with traders and travellers, and the
uniform justice which they have received from our
citizens and our government. We observed a num-
ber of smoked squirrels, fish, and ducks, hanging in
the upper part of the tent ; indicating a degree of
care, for the subsistence of their children, and fore-
cast as to the uncertainties of the chase, which is
highly honourable to the judgment and the paternal
feelings of these people. They have a method of
taking fish through the ice in the winter season,
which is equally novel and ingenious. After a hole
has been cut through the ice, they encompass it
with a slender circular frame of rods, or a kind of
open basket, over which a blanket is thrown to ex-
clude the light. The savage now lays himself down
upon the ice, with his head under this hood, and
playing a decoy or artificial fish upon the surfaxie of
the water with one hand, holds a drawn spear in the
other, and when the large trout suddenly dart up to
seize their fancied prey, pierces the body of his vic-
tim with unerring certainty. The spear is short, and
loosens itself from the handle the moment it is struck,
but is attached to a strong line, with which he plays
the fish a while in the water below, and draws it
out as soon as it becomes sufliciently enfeebled with
the wound. This method of fishing was first noticed
by Mr. Hudson, a missionary among the Saganaws,
to whose manuscript journal I am permitted to refer
for the facts.

OXVlIf. D.\Y.— (September I8//i.)--Crossed Saga-
navv Bay, stopping an hour upon the island of Sha-
"^-angunk. andencamped in the eastern cove of Point

415

aux Barques ; — distance forty-two miles. The isl-
and of Shawangunk is an alluvial plain of four or five
miles in circumference, based upon a calcareous
rock which is compact, stratified, without organic
remains, and containing very large imbedded mass-
es of chalcedony, and calcareous spar. These, have
been broken out by the violence of the waves
around the margin of the island, and lie promiscu-
ously among the fragments of limestone torn up by
the storms, and among large boulders of granite,
hornblende, trap, greenstone porpljyry, quartz, ar-
gillite, and sienite. The island is covered with a
beautiful growth of oak, and its numerous little bays
and inlets appear to be a favourite resort of aquatic
birds.

CXIX. Da.y.— {September 1 9//i.)— Detained at Point
aux Barques, by head winds. An opinion is preva-
^nt among the inhabitants of the region, that the
northwestern lakes are gradually running out, or in
other words, that the level of the waters is constant-
ly lowenng : some suppose this diminution to take
place periodically, others, by a constant and imper-
ceptible exhaustion. 1 have been informed by an
intelligent person at JVlichilimackinac, who has been
in the habit of making observations upon the rocks
which project above the water, that the level of
Lake Huron has fallen a foot within the last eiirht
years. It has also been advanced, that this decrease
continues for a definite period of years, as seven, oi
fourteen, and that at the, expiration of a like period,
after sinking to its minimum level, it attains its for-
mer height in the same gradual and imperceptible
manner, and that thus a ceaseless ebbing and flow-

416

iiig of the lakes, ib produced. A moment's reflec-
tion, however, will render it manifest that in a
country so extensive and thinly populated, a number
of circumstances may operate to produce a decep-
tion with respect to the permanent diminution of
water, as the prevalence of certain winds, the quan-
tity of rain and snow that falls around their shores,
&c. There can be no doubt that the extra quan-
tum of water discharged during the spring and fall}
by the numerous streams and rivers flowing into
these lakes, produces a corresponding rise in the
lakes themselves, which suffer a gradual diminution
as midsummer approaches. It is also obvious, that
the evaporation of water, must vary greatly during
the different seasons, in our fluctuating climate ; and
produce a sensible departure from the standard lev-
els of the different lakes. Conclusions, therefore,
drawn from the appearances of any particular point
along this great chain, should be received with
great caution ; and they must always be exposed to
error in the precise ratio that the temperature of the
air, the quantity of rain which has fallen, and the
prevalent winds, during the times which shall be se-
lected for experiment, shall have been correctly re-
gistered and compared.

Philosophers and geologists have not been want-
ing, who have attributed similar appearances to the
ocean itself, and the names of Celsius, Playfair, and
Jameson, may be quoted in support of the theory
that the level of the seas is gradually diminishing. —
It will be sufl5cient in this place to cite the opinion
of the admirable Cuvier on this subject.

"It has been asserted," he observes in his Theory
of the Karth, " that the sea is subject to a continual

'li

417

diminution of its level, and proofs of this are
said to have been discovered in some parts of
the shores of the Baltic. Whatever may have
been the cause of these appearances, we certainly
know that nothing of the kind has been observed up-
on our coasts ; and, consequently, that there has
been no general lowering ot the waters of the ocean.
The most ancient sea-ports still have their quays
and other erections at the same height above the
level of the sea as at their first construction. Cer-
tain general movements have been supposed in the
sea from east to west, or in other directions ; but no
where has any person been able to ascertain their
effects with the least degree of precision."

CXX. T>kY. -^{September 20//i.)— The winds had
abated, but did not cease to oppose our progress at
daylight. We embarked at six o'clock in the morn-
ing— were driven ashore by the waves at seven — re-
embarked at nine, and proceeding against a light
head wind until eight in the evening, encamped on
the beach of the lake, at the distance of fifly miles
from Point aux Barques.

CXXr. Day. — {September 2\st.) — We quit our en-
campment at four in the morning, but were driven
ashore by the winds on going six miles; and detain-
ed during the remainder of the day. At the spot
of our encampment, organic remains are abundant,
in the detached masses of secondary limestone,
which are strewed along the lake. The shore is
sandy from the woods to the water, where there is
a bed of pebbles and large blocks of granite, horn-

/>3

418

blende, quartz, micaslate, and greenstone ; but no
rock strata appear in situ. Among the loose masses
of rock, I noticed one of a ton weight, consisting
of granite made up of the usual constituents of feld-
spar, quartz, and mica; and also imbedding globu-
lar pebbles of hornblende porphyry, the latter
being composed of pure black hornblende, diver-
sified with fragments and crystals of feldspar,
quartz, and mixed granite. This fact I had previ-
ously noticed along other parts of the shore of Lake
Huron, and at Grosse Point, on Lake St. Clair.

CXXII. Day. — (September 22c/.) — Embarking at
early daylight, we reached fort Gratiot at five
o'clock in the afternoon, after rowing twelve hours
against an unfavourable wind. Here we halted
half an hour — found the garrison under the com-
mand of Lieut. Webb, by whom we were received
with cordiality — and descending the river seven
miles, encamped at twilight upon Elk island, having
progressed fifty-seven miles.

CXXIII. Day.— (September 23c?.) — On reaching
Elk island, we concluded to avail ourselves of a
calm night to descend the river, and after taking
su})per and repairing our canoes, again embarked
at nine o'clock, and reached Lake St. Clair at half
past three in the morning. Here we were compelled
to await the dawning of day, as the fog and darkness
rendered it impracticable to effect the traverse du-
ring the night. Daylight brought with it a strong
head wind, and the lake became so much agitated,
that the voyageurs considered it unsafe to cross. —
Urged by our impatience, however, to terminate the

419

voyage, the experiment was hazarded; and not-
withstanding the rain, which shortly commenced,
and the increased violence of the wind, we eflfected
the crossing with perfect safety — passed Grosse
Point at noon, and landed at Detroit at half past
three.

GENERAL INDEX,

CLIMATE or New-York -

Steam Boat Travelling . , .

Pine f lains - - • •

Schenectady - - . •

Valley of the Mohawk . « .

Iroquois Indians . . » .

Utica ....

Sieg« of Fort Staowix, facts respecting

Geneva - . •

f reduce of the soil in the Genesee country

Buffalo . . . -

Falls of Niagara - . . -

Errors of the Jesuit missionaries respecting its height

Iris Island - . - .

Geological character of the Falls

Facts respecting land birds and water fowl
Lenticular oxid of iron in Ontario
Historical Notices ofthe discovery of the Niagara Falls
Steam Boat voyage from Buffalo to Detroit
Put-in-Bay, or Bass Islands . » •

Moss, or Strontian Island - . -

Description of Detroit . , .

Its public buildings

Its moral institutions ...

Hisloricfil facts respecting its seltlemenl

Siege of Detroit by the Confederate Indians under Pont

Its present state and prospects -
Journey to Michilimackinac ...

Description of the Indian Canoe (with a plate)
Meteorological observations at Detroit
Departure from Detroit — boat-race — picturesque scenery
Members of the Expedition ...

Description of Lake St Clair

Tecumseh, sketch of his life ...

River St. Clair — soil — forest trees, k.c. -
Fort Gratiot ...

Coluber fcstivus, or common green snake, fact respectiiig
Meteorological observations on the lake and river St. Clair
Geological remarks ...

Xake Huron — character and productions of its shores

Its elevation above the Atlantic
Clay Banks — deceptive appearance of
White Rock — geological note
Indian tribes ....

Their offerings ...

Remarks on their religion - - .

on their superstition
on their knowledge of medicine
Botanical notices . •

Staurotide on Lake Huron ...

Petrifactions - - . .

Point aux Barques — geological character of the coast
Description of Saganaw Bay
Indians at River au Sables

Thunder Bay ...

Flat-Kock-Point — organic relics - - .

Pagu
17
19
21
22
ib.
23
25
27
30
31
33
33
34
35
39
38
42
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
52
55
62
66
67
72
73
77
75
76
79
81

84
84
86
87
88
88
88
90
ib.
93
ib.
94
95
97
99
101
102

GENERAL INDEX.

American hai e - - » ,

First appearance of the island of Michiliinackinac

Remarks on the soil and production? ot the southern shores of Lake Huron

jVleleorological observalioni on Lake Huron

Table of Distances from Detroit to Mich iiimackinac

Description of the Island and Town of Michilimackinac •

Its elevation — giant's arch — natura! pyramid, &c. ■

Gypsum beds of the St. Martin's Islands ...

Historical facts respecting the settlement of Michilimackinac
Massacre of the English garrison in 1763 ...

Fish of the Lakes ...

Geology and mineralogy of the island of Michilimackinac
Fur Trade - - -

Meteorological Observations at Michilimackinac
De)> .rture f)r Lake Superior

American Porcupine - - .

River St. Mary — Island of St. Joseph -
Description of the Sault de St. Marie (with a plate)
Indian method of fishing - - -

Rupture with the Indians - - - -

Thermometrical observations - •

Entrance into Lake Superior— picturesque view
Dis-co\ery of silver . . •

Shelldrake river - - - .

White Fish Point — soil, forest trees, Sic.
Grande Sable - . - -

Description of the Pictured Rocks (with a plate) -
Grande Isle . - - -

Rravery of the Chippeway Indians
Geological remarks (with a plate)
Indian Grave - -

Description of Keweena Bay and Point
Passage of the Keweena portage
Mineralogy of Lake Superior - -

Trait of Indian character -
Meteorological Observations - -

Table of Distances - - -

Visit to the Copper Mines ...

Character of the Ontonagon river — Sturgeon fishery, 8ic.
Reinarkable ma.ss of native Copper
Indians entrap a Bear — its size, 6ic.
Temperature of the air and water at the Ontonagon River
Proceed to the Fond du Lac

Porcupine Mountains - - •

Phenomenon mentioned by Charlevoix .
Falls of the Montreal River - - -

Mauvais River — point Chegoimegon— the establishment
Geological character of the shore
Bois Brule River — Fond du Lac -
Remarks upon Lake Superior - - -

The Island of Yellow Sands
Elevation of the American Lakes
Wild Rice (Zezania aquatica)

Description of the American Fur Company's House
Stationary Distances — Meteorological Observations
Passage of the Grand Portage on St. Louis River
Geology and Mineralogy
Portage aux Coteaux — Vertical Slate
Expedition separates — Progress of ihe party by land
Indian method of writing in hieroglyphics
Difficulties of iravelhng — Topographical remarks -
Cranberry, facts respecting

Botanical Notices - . .

Sandy Lake - . . »

Alarm created on our arrival -

Description of the Fort, historical facts, &c.
Geology of the region . . .

ftge.
104
106
105
108
109
110
ib.
113
ib.
116
118
119
12'2
124
125
127
128
130
133
134
l42
ib,
143
144
145
146
150
154
165
158
160
162
164
165
166
168
169
171
172
176
183
187
189
190
ib.
191
192
193
195
196
197
200
201
205
204
205
206
208
209

su

213
215
ib.
216
217
218
219

GENERAL INDEX.

•Savannah River, topography of - • •

Indian Tribes - - . -

Their numbers, chiefs, mode of subsistence

— — language, physical constitution, &c.

Warhke character and exploits

Dress, feasting, sufJetings, passion for paints, Sic.

State of Female Society

Method of Burial

Religious Opinions. • - .

Indian Oratory — a specimen

Meteorological Observations — Distances — Elevations •
Enter the Mississippi, and proceed towards its source
Geological character and productions of the Mississippi
Fails of Peckagama ...

Appearances of the Savannahs or Prairies -
Description of Leech Lake

Lace Winnipec ....
IVatural History of the Pelican

Description of Cassina Lake (with a view on the map) •
Object of human misery - . -

Remarks on the physical character of the Mississippi
Etymology of the word "Mississippi"
Descent of the Mississippi - - .

Boundary line between the United Stales and Canada
Return to Sandy Lake

Meteorological Observations - - .

Journey to St. Peter's ■ - .

Musquitoes - - • .

Topographical remarks on Pine River, &:c.
Notices of Natural History - - .

The Red Squirrel — its habits, varieties, &c.
River De Corbeau . • . .

Mineralogy and 'ieology . > ,

Hunting the Buffalo • • .

Indian Hieroglyphics , . ,

Remarkson the .Natural History of the Wolf ,

Stryx Nyctea, or White Owl

Topographical notices of the St. Francis and Crow Rivers

Mississawgaiegon or Rum River

Description of the Falls of St, Anthony (with a plate)

Pike's Indian Treaty

JSew Garrison at St. Peter's

History of its esiablishment, he. .

Climate and Productions
Topographical account of the St. Peter's

it* mineralogy - - .

Indian pipe stone - .

native Copper - . .

Facts respecting the medicinal properties of the Box-elder
Mineral springs - - - .

Aromatic grass • » .

Description of the Gopher - - .»

Treaty concluded between the Sioux and Chippeways
Some account oftlw Sioux nation
Anecdote of a Sioux Chief
Antiquities on the viver St. Peter's •

Description ot the Calhoun Lakes

Leopard ground squirrel - • .

Meteorological observations

Descend the River to Prairie du Chien . .

Description of Carver's Cave
Village of Le Petit Corbeau

Substance of an Indian Speech delivered to Governor Cass
Corn Feast ....
Remarks on the St. Croix River . . ,

Scenery cif the Mississippi , ,

Red Wing's village ....
Indianprocess of tanning . , .

Page,-
2i2
223
ib.
224.

:^25

227

23t
233
234
236
238
239
241
242
244
24.5
247
250
252
253
260
262
263
265
268
269
270
271
272
273
274
275
276
282
284
286
286
288
289
292
ib.
ib.
294
295
297
300
301
302
ib.
ib;
303
304
307
311
312
ib.
313
314
315
ib,
317
318
319
321
ib.
323
ib.

GENERAL INDEX.

Description of (he Grange . ,

IVaiural History of the RattlesnHko

Description of Lake Fepiii

instance of heroic sentiment in an Indian girl

Remains ofan antique fortification

The mountain that sinks in the water . .

Attem|its to take a wolf . , <■

Prairie du Chien • • . *

Description of the Fort . ,

Visit to tiie lead mines • • . .

Deserted village ot Fox Indians

Kettle Chiefs village • - . .

Geology and mineralogy > . _

Indian Method of miniDg » . ,

Some account of thf Fox Indians

Historical facts respecting the discovery of the mines •

Jnlien Dubuque - . ,

iVIi. Gallatin's report on the mines. - .

Queries proposed ny Lieut. Pike

Ficturesque appearance of the country

.Tourney up the Ousconsing - - -

Remarks on the geology, tepography, &c. of the Ousconaing

Proceed across the portage to the Fox river

Character of Fox river above Winnebago lake - -

Descrtption of Winnebago lake

Green Bay - - ...

General remarks on Fox river

Observations on the appearances of a tide in the lakes

Indian cemetery

Mineralogical character of the western shores of Lake JMichigan

Drowned pigeons and gulls

Beds of pyrites «...

Asphaltum - - - •

De.-cription of Chicago — the garrison and village

of the country around Chicago

Mineral coal - - - -

Meteorological observations

Account of the massacre of the American garrison at Chicago, in 1812

Description of the loss of the schooner Hercules, and the death of Lieuf

River St. Joseph ...

Phytolites, locality of - -

Ludus hblinontii - . -

Grande river

Fungite (with a plate)

Historical facts relative to the river Marquette

Sterile appearance of the coast . .

Sleeping Bear

L'Arbre Croche village

Geology ol Green Bay

Native copper, fanciful Indian story ,

Island of Bois Blanc . •

First vessel built on the lakes

Indiau manner of accounting for phenomena

Petrifactions — geological remarks

Saganaw Indians

method of fishing
Mineralogy of Shaw ingunk island
Diminution of the 'evel of the lakes
Organic relics— geology .

Evileth

Q'i*
326
327
329
331
334
336
337
339
340
340
342
34»
344
346
348
349
350
333
354
358
361
364
365
366
369
370
373
379
380
381
382

ib.
383
384
385
386
389
393
395

ib.
396
397
398
399
400
401
402
404
405
408
409
410
411
413
414
415
ib.
417

Pace 131, line 20th, for "contrast," read diversUy,
r>t%e 177, line 24th. for "appear," read appears.
' '• line 29th, for the article " a" read one.

Pace 196, hue loth, for the article "a ' read an-
"a|e 2^3. line nA. for" these," read three.

^